Foam & Finishing

[Jackshadow]

So, I did some deep dive thread reading on EVA foam finishing work, filling gaps and painting. It seems there are a lot of schools of thought on how to proceed, which for a noob is a bit bewildering. So, three questions, as I race to finish my armor before Megacon:

1. Gap filling for spaces, best bets for something that can be sanded a bit to make it look less gap filling and more like it's supposed it?
2. To plasti-dip or not to plasti-dip?
3. Best paints to get that hard armor look, without being super-glossy? And is said paint weatherproof?

Sorry, I did look, but there seems a zillion opinions, and am hoping to get some more targeted to a new armor builder on a schedule.

Thanks!

 

[Dirtdives2424]

Unfortunately, you have touched upon 3 of the greatest points of contention in the cosplay. There is no one all encompassing answer because what works for one may not work for another....I find that using calk to fill the gaps is better than someone else clay putty method. Or even spackle.....I've hear of horror stories about Plasta-dip and have used it much to my demise of parts of armor but then there are people that swear by it and have the pics top prove it. As far as paint goes.....zillion is but a fraction of the color choices......All of your questions boils down to one word. Preference. What material....style......modus operandi you feel most comfortable using. The one other contention point is EVA vs Fiberglass.....So, after all your reading and research, investigation, fence sitting, YouTube watching...it all comes down to....you. Now, pick.....and start to build. If you feel that that is not the way to go, start over and switch to something and someway else.

 

[Jackshadow]

Unfortunately, you have touched upon 3 of the greatest points of contention in the cosplay. There is no one all encompassing answer because what works for one may not work for another....I find that using calk to fill the gaps is better than someone else clay putty method. Or even spackle.....I've hear of horror stories about Plasta-dip and have used it much to my demise of parts of armor but then there are people that swear by it and have the pics top prove it. As far as paint goes.....zillion is but a fraction of the color choices......All of your questions boils down to one word. Preference. What material....style......modus operandi you feel most comfortable using. The one other contention point is EVA vs Fiberglass.....So, after all your reading and research, investigation, fence sitting, YouTube watching...it all comes down to....you. Now, pick.....and start to build. If you feel that that is not the way to go, start over and switch to something and someway else.

Totally understood, that's why I threw the caveat of newbie and with a time crunch since I don't have a lot of time to trial and error. I appreciate the feedback, and suspect I might have to pull a couple all nighters before the 25th....ugh! Oh, as far as paint, I was really talking type (automotive, flat, glossy, enamel, etc.), rather than colors, since I have an idea of what color in my head.

 

[mblackwell1002]

Totally understood, that's why I threw the caveat of newbie and with a time crunch since I don't have a lot of time to trial and error. I appreciate the feedback, and suspect I might have to pull a couple all nighters before the 25th....ugh! Oh, as far as paint, I was really talking type (automotive, flat, glossy, enamel, etc.), rather than colors, since I have an idea of what color in my head.

I usually do satin or matte acrylic spray paint. Acrylic spray paint is flexible on foam, which makes it ideal. Just be sure to do 2 or 3 coats to really bring out the color.

The acrylic spray paint I use is "Rustoleum Painter's touch 2x ultra cover" It works really well with foam.

So that's just one idea, you'll definitely have to see what works for you.

 

[Dirtdives2424]

May 25? Wow...and I thought I had a short deadline.

 

[Jackshadow]

May 25? Wow...and I thought I had a short deadline.

Yeah, this week and part of next. Super fun, for sure....

 

[Dirtdives2424]

good luck.....which con?

 

[Jackshadow]

Megacon, in Orlando. So also have to get everything from NY to Orlando. Wondering if a Pelican is free for an airlift....

 

[Dirtdives2424]

Only if you pay for the shipping of a Warthog.

 

[Jackshadow]

Only if you pay for the shipping of a Warthog.

Hehe, they can take it out of my pay!

 

[Electraknite]

For filling spaces I've used Dap filler that Evil ted uses. you wont be able to sand it but its water based so you can smooth it out really easily with a wet finger.
I've used rustoleums flexi dip which I like more then plasti-dip because it has less texture and the can is cheaper. Just be careful about cleaning the straw because it will clog if you don't (turn it upside down and spray until no more paint come out) which is good practice for all spray paint really. I definitely recommend using a rubber coat as primer though. The paint will look much better, and you'll need less if you do.
I like the painters touch that mblackwell1002 uses. I've also used liquitex basics acrylic paint from a craft store. brush or airbrush it on.

I don't know if you've looked into what glue you want to use.. that's a whole other debate it seems.... but to avoid gaps in the first place contact cement is really good for joining major structural pieces. it also has a longer working time. for smaller details that are easy to attach hot glue works well.

 

[Jackshadow]

For filling spaces I've used Dap filler that Evil ted uses. you wont be able to sand it but its water based so you can smooth it out really easily with a wet finger.
I've used rustoleums flexi dip which I like more then plasti-dip because it has less texture and the can is cheaper. Just be careful about cleaning the straw because it will clog if you don't (turn it upside down and spray until no more paint come out) which is good practice for all spray paint really. I definitely recommend using a rubber coat as primer though. The paint will look much better, and you'll need less if you do.
I like the painters touch that mblackwell1002 uses. I've also used liquitex basics acrylic paint from a craft store. brush or airbrush it on.

I don't know if you've looked into what glue you want to use.. that's a whole other debate it seems.... but to avoid gaps in the first place contact cement is really good for joining major structural pieces. it also has a longer working time. for smaller details that are easy to attach hot glue works well.

Thanks for the tip about clogging! I've used hot glue so far, with half the build done, and yeah, it's a little messy and left some gaps, so Dap will be helpful.

For the Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover, it looks like the Oregano is the closest to the Master Chief's OD green, from their Satin line....

 

[PaiganBoi]

For filling spaces I've used Dap filler that Evil ted uses. you wont be able to sand it but its water based so you can smooth it out really easily with a wet finger.

I have managed to sand the Dap filler.... I had laid down a really thick bead of the stuff and smoothed it out with a wet finger. Since I put such a large bead on, it was a little raised from the foam. So decided to see what happened if I sanded and was lucky enough to smooth out the area. Maybe I grabbed a different one than what Evil Ted used.... Hmmmmm.
I've have heard that some people use calking as well as a filler.

 

[Dirtdives2424]

I have used caulk.....I do make sure it is of the paintable flavors though.....It really is a pain to sand but a dremel makes quick work of it.

 

[PaiganBoi]

Yes... double checking to make sure its paintable would be wise. Nothing would be worse that paint flaking off after so much work was put into it. On the other hand though it MIGHT make for a good weathering effect.... hmmmm.... should test that out in the future.
Along the lines of Plasti Dip, I'm in the same boat as Dirtdives, I've had terrible results with it. I still have a can left and will to try using it again. I don't want to waste the stuff since its so pricey. I have heard that warming it up in some warm/hot water helps with better flow.

 

[Jackshadow]

Yes... double checking to make sure its paintable would be wise. Nothing would be worse that paint flaking off after so much work was put into it. On the other hand though it MIGHT make for a good weathering effect.... hmmmm.... should test that out in the future.
Along the lines of Plasti Dip, I'm in the same boat as Dirtdives, I've had terrible results with it. I still have a can left and will to try using it again. I don't want to waste the stuff since its so pricey. I have heard that warming it up in some warm/hot water helps with better flow.

I did see a youtube video in my research that said putting it in a bucket of hot water for 10 minutes helps with the flow....just an FYI

 

[TurboCharizard]

I did see a youtube video in my research that said putting it in a bucket of hot water for 10 minutes helps with the flow....just an FYI

The bucket of warm water trick does work wonders for consistent flow from the can but make sure to follow the ambient temperature and moisture guidelines for the specific brand of paint as well. Nothing will ruin a paintjob more than cold weather or beads of water on a curing surface.