Halo 4/5 master chief armor high poly 3d printeble for you!

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All those projects are so good, it´s an inspiration for me to continue with my proyect. I had some problem because my computer was old (2012) and it don´t support the 3D. Finally i have a new pc and i´m scaling the pieces of the armor right now. I just have a question: what thicknes you recomend me? i was thinking in a 4mm thicknes for all the armor, but im not sure if that is a good idea. Greetings!!
 
All those projects are so good, it´s an inspiration for me to continue with my proyect. I had some problem because my computer was old (2012) and it don´t support the 3D. Finally i have a new pc and i´m scaling the pieces of the armor right now. I just have a question: what thicknes you recomend me? i was thinking in a 4mm thicknes for all the armor, but im not sure if that is a good idea. Greetings!!

Good to hear you have a pc up and running. :) im working with a tickness 5mm on my armor, i think that is totaly fine, strength is okey and it's super light wich i prioritize when this is something you probably will wear for long periods at a time. But parts that will experiens more abuse i make more solid. ;)
 
Thanks CarterBuilder i´ll try print whit that thickness. And now that you say it, i had no thought about these parts that will experience more abuse, it´s a good tip to make they more solid like you say. Thanks for share this tip whit us. I hope to start the printing the second or third week of January, and i will share photos with all of you. Greetings!!!
 
the feet part of the suit the middle and outer cover are really downscaled compared to the other part so its really hard to scale properly since we cant use the same scale factor
 
Wow amazing stuff! I just started making a new helmet and while looking for visor reference pics I came across this thread and noticed someone already did (a better job than I would as well).
I'll be printing this helmet to upgrade my suit if that's ok :)

Wow, that i didn't notice that... sorry for that, but there is an easy fix. Just scale it up by 10 and it should be the scale of the others. :) this error is because i had used worong export scale, centimeters insted of millimeters :p But if you want i can post a zip file with the feet at the right scale. ;)
 
Updatre time!!!!

So I have used this day reworking the chest plate:
(thickness is now 0.5mm all over and more details i hadn't seen last time has been added)
chest.png


With this rework i ended up tweeking on other connecting parts to the chest plate, so the chest plate wont fit the old model of the torso.

So here are all the parts that have been change in some way:
chest 2.png


You can probably do some tweeking to the new chest plate so it fits the old parts if you have already printed the other parts.

Link: Torso v2.zip
Warning! I highly recommed that you scale the parts to fit you! And you have to cut the files to fit your printer!
 
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Hello!
I made an account just so i can post on this thread. I just want to say that you are amazing! It has always been a dream to make my own suit. I bought the Maker Select 3D v2. I have been watching blender, meshmixer and AUTOdesk tutorials just so i can learn to manipulate your files. I am starting with complete zero knowledge. I managed to scale the helmet and slice it up into 16 pieces. I will post my pics as I make more steps into this adventure!

Few questions.
What is the thinkness you have you files set at? And what is the recommended thickness i should make my suit in. And can i change that in blender?

What adhesive do you use to glue it all together and hide all the lines.

When it comes to printing out the body armor. How do you attach it to your arms and legs and such?

How did you measure your head to scale it perfectly.
 
Hello!
I made an account just so i can post on this thread. I just want to say that you are amazing! It has always been a dream to make my own suit. I bought the Maker Select 3D v2. I have been watching blender, meshmixer and AUTOdesk tutorials just so i can learn to manipulate your files. I am starting with complete zero knowledge. I managed to scale the helmet and slice it up into 16 pieces. I will post my pics as I make more steps into this adventure!

Few questions.
What is the thinkness you have you files set at? And what is the recommended thickness i should make my suit in. And can i change that in blender?

What adhesive do you use to glue it all together and hide all the lines.

When it comes to printing out the body armor. How do you attach it to your arms and legs and such?

How did you measure your head to scale it perfectly.

Thanks man! keep the hard work up. ;)

For the first question:
The tickness on the most up to date files should be around 5mm thick.

I say it this way because this projects have been a learning experience for me, this was one of the first projects i began with when i started learning 3d modelling. And this reflects on to the parts so some parts don't use my latest methodes wich means that the most likely have less than 5mm tickness. :)

For the second question:
I usualy don't glue my parts anymore, I kind of weld them together by using a soldering iron on the inside of the parts to make a strong bond. :) for hiding lines I firstly do alot of sanding, then i use something like bondo or two part modelling putty/clay and lastly filler primer and paint. ;)

For the third question:
I planing on buying a wet suit, then I will probaly sew on buckels so I can easily take the parts on and off. ;)

For the last question, I used a program named Makehuman to make a model that is close to me that i could use to scale the parts to me. :)
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Another update!

I realised that the center back part on the torso is different on the halo 5 suit from the halo 4 suit. So i made that for those who want to make it more like the H5 suit.


center back v2.png


Link: Back center v2-H5ver.stl


I also need help from someone that know how to make foam temps in pepakura.
I made the soft parts that goes in between the open holes in the chest plate:
chest plate soft parts.png


Link: master chief deler 2.obj
 
Oooh, nice! I can't access One Drive, though...I don't know why...my comp seems to not like it for some odd reason...

can you upload the PDO directly so I can work with it?
 
Thanks man! keep the hard work up. ;)

For the first question:
The tickness on the most up to date files should be around 5mm thick.

I say it this way because this projects have been a learning experience for me, this was one of the first projects i began with when i started learning 3d modelling. And this reflects on to the parts so some parts don't use my latest methodes wich means that the most likely have less than 5mm tickness. :)

For the second question:
I usualy don't glue my parts anymore, I kind of weld them together by using a soldering iron on the inside of the parts to make a strong bond. :) for hiding lines I firstly do alot of sanding, then i use something like bondo or two part modelling putty/clay and lastly filler primer and paint. ;)

For the third question:
I planing on buying a wet suit, then I will probaly sew on buckels so I can easily take the parts on and off. ;)

For the last question, I used a program named Makehuman to make a model that is close to me that i could use to scale the parts to me. :)

Thanks for the response! I will have to try out Makehuman.
 
What adhesive do you use to glue it all together and hide all the lines.

That depends on what material you'd be using to do the printjob.
Kristians' using PLA, his method of solder-ironing, essentially remelting the stuff works pretty well, but I admit I found it hard make precise, clean connections doing that. Using PLA, I used high-tac builder glue, stuff sold in Europe under the Tek7 or Soudal logo. It's not super glue : It's a paste-like substance which maintains a certain level of flexibility (very minute, it's not like your parts are wobbling. It's more that opposed to superglue, the connection doesn't become brittle after hardening).

A industrial tube of that stuff costs like 15€ or so. You can quite litterally glue bricks with it. I once glued a bad part to a prop and only noticed it the other day. I had to saw off the part as it was impossible to break the connection.


I switched to ABS+ for most of my prints, as it combines nearly all the pro's of ABS (superior termperature levels, quite a lot tougher than regular PLA) and doesn't come with most of the negative side of regular ABS (smell, terrible shrink/warp if you're unlucky). Still would need a enclosure to print ABS+ if your machine doesn't have one, but making an enclosure is really easy and can be done for 25€ or less and some time, inclusive Plexi-see-through door)

ABS(+) can be cold-welded using a mix of used ABS scrap (supports, failed prints, whatever) and acetone. Mix it up, let it melt in a sealable container. Add ABS or acetone till you reach the consistency you want to work, and just brush it on the parts you want to glue. Press the parts. Keep pressed. The acetone will evaporate pretty fast, then bond material will diffuse/melt the abs walls a bit, creating essentially a single-part. Compare it to what happens when you'd be welding metal, or the healing of a broken bone if you want. Once hardened, the connection is enourmously strong as you're not introducing any new material, and you're diffusing the surfaces into each other.

Thinner "ABS stuff" can be used to fill up cracks and irrularities or damages. Just brush it over/in the seam or damage, let it harden. It will become "one" with the surrounded material, and it can be sanded/post processed exactly like the original material.

Here's a demo of this procedure :

We take a badly damaged part (in this case, a split surface on an ODST helmet)

image.png


Pretty bad eh ?

Mix up the abs crap, take a brush, apply freely, inside, outside and IN the seam.

image (1).png


Let it evaporate. Handsand. 15 minutes later ?

image (2).png


And even in close-up, the only thing you'll see is a slight color difference :

image (3).png


As ABS has a pretty high glass transition temperature, you can either handsand or machine sand the part, but do use a wetsand technique.

The repaired part isn't just "repaired", it's as strong as a full, undamaged part.

501th Stormtroopers use this trick to keep their armors in good shape and seeing how easy it is, I totally understand why.

Also and this is pretty unique : ABS is slightly flexible compared to the pretty glass-like behavior of PLA. Well, a part which you'd repair like this retains that flexibility as again, you don't introduce any foreign material nor do you change the structure of the base material. You can even strengthen weak parts by just "painting it with ABS on the inside" and let it dry.

ABS can be a totall bitch during the printstage and I understand full well why there's a movement towards printing PLA. Several pretty expensive new machines don't even come with the basic fascilities (a heated bed) to work with ABS these days, which I find is a loss : because it's not just ABS that profits from a heated bed. Stuff like PETG likes a heated bed too, and even PLA can profit from it.
Anyhow, ABS+ behaves much more neutral and the printresults look "PLA-like" in sharpness and detail but just like normal ABS, I would not recommend printing it without an enclosure around your machine.

Some versions ABS+ even looks so similar to PLA, you'd be very hard pressed to see the difference, inclusive the PLA-typical shine.

abs.jpg


One side is PLA, the other side is ABS+. Normally, ABS looks dull and somewhat less sharp. This stuff is .... different. I've joked about it saying it's ABS with an identity crisis. :D

The used material is from a company called "Devil Design", a European filament maker situated in Poland. They're pretty cheap even : I can get them for just below 16€ for a 1kg spool, inclusive VAT and what not.
 
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Man, how have I not seen this thread before? Even though I don't have a 3d printer, I love looking at all this 3d stuff!
 
Attached are my first two prints =D

In the long run I would like to wire LEDs into the helm and I have also heard of people putting fans inside the helm. Is there a reason for that? Anyone have advice about wiring the LEDS to a button on the side of the helm
 

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Attached are my first two prints =D

In the long run I would like to wire LEDs into the helm and I have also heard of people putting fans inside the helm. Is there a reason for that? Anyone have advice about wiring the LEDS to a button on the side of the helm
yes, there is a reason for fans. a helmet will always get hot, especially for extended periods of time.

nice print, by the way:)

Also, Kristian...would you mind if I used this pepakura file to create freehanded templates?
I've been modifying your templates, and they would work; but there's lots of gaps, and I think if I converted them to more 'streamlined' templates, the finished build would look cleaner. If you're ok with that, I'll do a build test, and if it's possible, but needs a little help; I'll make a tutorial.

Thoughts?:)
 
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