Indi's Sewing Guide: Introduction and Personal Tips
The forums have a few sewing guides already, however, I'd like to add to the discussion with a glossary of common terms and definitions that could assist beginner to advanced sewers. In this guide, you will find:
- Glossary of Terms
- Anatomy of a Sewing Machine
- How to Thread a Machine
- Thread Tension
- Hand Sewing
- Beginning to Sew with a Machine / Practicing
- Patterning
Some other guides include:
Ashuraa's Sewing: Common Terms
FANGS's Sewing Tutorial #1: Basic Setup for Most Sewing Projects
Ashuraa goes over plenty of sewing terms and distinguishing factors between fabrics, as well as a few stitches. FANGS and friends go over their sewing setups and tips!
SEWING TERMS
To start, I'm going to add to Ashuraa's sewing terms list with some of my own. These are terms that I've found useful when I'm reading patterns or tutorials. Below you will find a large list of terms (not all inclusive), that serves our purpose of introducing some common terms and ideas to our community. These definitions are from a few sewing websites, and I added to them where appropriate!
Sources:
The A-Z Sewing Guide: 85 Sewing Terms You Need To Know
Glossary of Sewing Terms | National Sewing Circle
The Ultimate Guide to Sewing Machine Presser Feet | Sewing Tips, Tutorials, Projects and Events | Sew Essential
| Applique | This comes from the French word “appliquer,” which means to apply or put on. In sewing, applique is the process of applying one kind of fabric on top of another layer of fabric. This is fixed by sewing or by another fusing means. It can also refer to a surface embellishment. |
| Ballpoint Needles | Sewing machine needles that are specifically designed to be used when sewing knit fabrics. The rounded tip prevents piercing, that would damage the knit. |
| Bias | A direction of a piece of woven fabric. Usually referred to as “the bias.” This is a 45 degree angle to the gain line, or diagonal direction of the fabric. |
| Bias Tape | Pre-made strips of fabric in various sizes that are cut diagonally across the grain to give the fabric some movement so it will turn curves nicely. |
| Blind Hem | The technique of sewing a blind hem stitch, which consists of several straight stitches followed by a zig-zag stitch, across the hem of a garment so that the thread on the right side of the fabric is nearly invisible to the naked eye. Can be done by hand or machine with a Blind Hem foot. |
| Bobbin | The thread that comes up from the bottom and meets the thread from the spool to form the stitch. Bobbins need to be wound up and inserted properly into a sewing machine. |
| Buttonhole | A small cut in the fabric that is bound with small stitching. The hole has to be just big enough to allow a button to pass through it and remain in place. |
| Casing | A folded over edge of a garment, which is usually at the waist. It is used to enclose a way of adjusting the fit – for example a drawstring. |
| Clipping Corners | The process of snipping the triangular piece of seam allowance off of the corner of a seam to prevent bulk in the corner when turned right side out. |
| Cutting Mat | A self-healing board used for cutting fabric on. That is often marked with measuring grids. |
| Dart | A common technique used for shaping garments. They normally appear around the waist and bust. |
| Darn / Darning | Usually refers to the repair of a small hole, most often in knitwear, using a needle and thread. It is often done by hand, using a darning stitch. It can also refer to any number of needlework techniques that are worked using darning stitches. |
| Drape / Draping | The fluid way that the fabric hangs in a garment. The act of positioning fabric on a form to draft a pattern or see how the fabric sits |
| Ease | The allowance of space in a pattern for fit, comfort and style, over exact body measurements. |
| Embroidery | An ancient variety of decorative needlework. Designs and images are created by stitching strands of one material onto another. |
| Eyelet | Small rings made of metal or plastic that are inserted into the fabric with a special pair of pliers to reinforce a hole. For example, on the back of wedding dresses that lace up, the laces go through the eyelets. Also refers to a type of fabric with holes as the design, and each hole is created and reinforced by embroidery. |
| Face | The front of a piece of fabric (the right side). |
| Facing | The fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment such as the necklines, armholes, and waistbands. This is used to make the finished edge look nice and lay flat. |
| Feed Dogs | Small jagged feet that sit under the presser foot of a sewing machine. By lifting and lowering them, you have the ability to use the machine for free hand embroidery. |
| Grading | A process of trimming the seam allowance in order to reduce bulk in the seams. |
| Hem | The finished bottom edge of a garment. The hem indicates the edge which is usually folded up and sewn, thus creating a neat and even finish. |
| Interfacing | A term for a textile used on the unseen (wrong) side of fabrics. They support and stabilize the fashion fabric of the garment. |
| Lining | A piece of material used to finish the inside of a garment. Linings can hide the seam and make the garments easier and more comfortable to wear. |
| Match Point | A point marked on one pattern piece so it can be matched to a similar point on another pattern piece. |
| Muslin | An inexpensive, normally un-dyed fabric used to create pattern pieces, or to test out a garment before using the more expensive fashion fabric. |
| Needle | Small piece of metal with a hole at the top used for stitching fabric with thread |
| Notions | All of the accessories used in sewing projects. Think zippers, thread, buttons, hooks, ribbons and so on. |
| Overlay | This refers to the top layer of fabric, when there is a different one underneath. |
| Pattern | A template on paper or cardboard from which all of the pieces of the garment are traced onto fabric. All the parts are then cut out and assembled to create the final piece. |
| Piping | A trim of fabric-wrapped cording inserted into a seam to embellish a garment or project. The cord is wrapped in bias tape so it will curve easily around all seams. |
| Pleat | A type of fold in the fabric created by doubling the material back on itself and securing it in place. When ironed, they create a sharp crease. |
| Pre-Wash | After a fabric is purchased, it can be pre-washed. This is an important step if it is going to be made into a garment or project that will be machine washed and dried. This way the fabric will be pre-shrunk before constructing the garment. Typically, pre-washing of the fabric is done in the same manner that the garments is going to be washed when completed. |
| Pressing | Using an iron to press wrinkles from a fabric or press a crease in place. |
| Presser Foot | A small piece of interchangeable metal or plastic equipment near the needle on the sewing machine. It is the function that keeps your fabric in place while you sew. |
| Princess Seam | A vertical seam line which gives shape to a garment in place of darts. Usually found on bodices, dresses, jackets, and blouses. |
| Raw Edge | The edge of the piece of fabric after it is cut but before it is hemmed. If left raw, the fabric might fray. |
| Right Side | The front, or face of the fabric. This is the side of the fabric designed to be on the outside of the garment. |
| Seam | The line where two pieces of fabric are held together by the thread. |
| Seam Allowance | This is the width of the fabric beyond the seam line. |
| Seam Ripper | A small tool used for unpicking stitches. |
| Selvedge | The woven edge of the fabric that runs parallel to the lengthwise grain – also called “selvage.” They are the finished edges that do not fray. |
| Sewing Machine | A machine used for joining fabric together with a mechanically driven needle |
| Smocking | A technique in which pleats are gathered and folded in a variety of formations to make texture. |
| Tacking | Big stitches used to hold 2 pieces of cloth together to make it easier to sew. These temporary stitches are removed once a permanent seam is completed. |
| Tailor's Chalk | A piece of chalk used to mark fabric. |
| Tension | The amount of “pinching” done to your thread as it flows through your sewing machine. Thicker fabrics need a higher tension (a harder pinch so the thread doesn’t flow out too quickly), and thinner fabrics need less tension (a lesser pinch to let the thread out easily to prevent puckering). |
| Thimble | A protective implement worn on the finger or thumb when sewing. |
| Thread | A long, thin strand of fiber used in sewing to join fabric together |
| Width of Fabric (WOF) | Width of the cut of fabric. You will find this abbreviation in many quilting patterns. |
| Wrong Side | The inside or back of the fabric. The side that isn’t on show. |
| Yardage | A term for an undefined length of fabric. |
Now that we have established a huge glossary of terms, we can go into depth on a few more introductory concepts!
Anatomy of a Sewing Machine: What goes where?
This section covers the anatomy of a sewing machine, as well as how to thread a machine's upper and lower halves.
A sewing machine is a machine that is used to sew. Easy enough right? Not quite. A standard sewing machine can be priced anywhere from the very low end of $60 to a high end machine of over $600! There are plenty of sewing machines available to suit your needs. There are basic machines typically priced anywhere from $100-$300, and more advanced machines from $400+. No matter your budget, any sewing machine has the ability to complete a project, but the complexity of the machine relies on what you need it to do. Some machines can embroider, some have a large selection of stitches, but basic ones have the ability to do a backstitch and have interchangeable feet.
Some of the most popular sewing machine brands are: Brother, Singer, Husqvarna, Janome, and Bernina. I've had a Kenmore machine for over 10 years, and it works perfectly fine with yearly maintenance.
Lets go over some sewing machine anatomy! Not all machines will look like the one below, but they will have all of these parts!
The spool pin and bobbin winder are used to thread a bobbin. The bobbin winder pre-tension knob serves as a guide for the spool of thread to stay in place. I will go over how to thread a machine in this post. In addition, a bobbin is a small amount of thread wound around a metal or plastic wheel that is used to sew into the underside of a piece of fabric. It works underneath the bobbin cover / slide plate in the diagram. It looks like this when in motion:
Thread from the spool is in yellow. Thread from the bobbin is in green. The bobbin is the wheel you see moving in a counter-clockwise motion. Notice how the top thread is hooked on to the bobbin and the bottom thread is tied in as the bobbin rotates. This ensures that the thread is properly secured. Issues with this process will be reviewed in the section about tension.
The operation panel is usually on the right side of the machine. It is used to determine what kind of stitch you will use (the right side of the machine usually has a list of stitches on it). Some are digital and some are manual.
The thread take-up lever is used for threading the machine.
The hand wheel is used to manually move the needle up and down and the feed dogs forwards or backwards. It is useful for moving the needle up at the end of your stitch to remove the fabric from the machine.
The needle is used for moving the thread up and down between the layers of fabric. See the above gif for a demonstration!
The needle plate is a plate that encloses the bobbin and feed dogs. The plate also has holes below the needle that allow for the needle to pass through the fabric and back up.
The pedal (not pictured), is the attachment that sits on the floor and is controlled by your foot. It controls the speed of your machine.
Finally, the removable storage box is a part of the sewing machine that can be taken off and placed on depending on the project. The box just slides off and on. Super easy! Most storage boxes are used for storing extra bobbins, needles, and presser feet! You could even put snacks inside (if you really wanted to).
The presser foot is what holds the fabric down and applies the appropriate amount of pressure to move the fabric along. I have included a section on the proper uses and various types of presser feet.
One of the features not labeled is the presser foot lifter, which is a small lever that lifts the presser foot up so you can place your fabric between the presser foot and the needle plate.
FEED DOGS + PRESSER FEET
1. Presser foot
2. Feed dogs
3. Thumbscrew for adjusting the presser foot tension
Presser feet can come in a million shapes and sizes. They're all have different uses too! Will you need to use all of them? Probably not!
Most commonly, I use a rolled hem foot, straight stitch foot, zipper foot, and a zigzag / all purpose foot. These are probably the most common feet for a sewing machine.
Types of Presser Feet: What holds and guides the fabric?
This section covers: Presser feet and needle types
First off, let's review what a foot is. According to the glossary above, a "presser foot" is a small piece of interchangeable metal or plastic used near the needle to keep fabric in place while you sew. Look below for the types of feet you will most likely run into while reviewing patterns and sewing guides.
| Blind Hem Foot | Use with a blind hem stitch. Great for making a small hem |
| Buttonhole Foot | Foot with an opening large enough to allow for a buttonhole (zigzag) stitch |
| Narrow Hem Foot | Able to make narrow hems quickly. Folds the fabric over to make a hem |
| Overedge Foot | Finishes the raw edge of a piece of fabric. |
| Sliding Buttonhole Foot | Sliding or adjustable buttonhole feet are longer than a standard presser foot and have markings along them. This foot also gives you full view of the buttonhole as you sew it so you can be more accurate. It is much easier to see exactly where to start and stop your stitching. |
| Standard (or Zigzag) Foot | Most commonly used foot for satin, zigzag, standard, straight stitch. |
| Straight Stitch Foot | Foot that can help tame chiffon and finicky fabrics. Only use this foot with a straight stitch. |
| Walking Foot | A presser foot that steps across the fabric, as opposed to sliding. |
| Zipper Foot (+Invisible Zipper Foot) | A foot that installs zippers. Invisible zipper feet are able to create a small stitch immediately next to the zipper teeth |
These are not all of the feet available!
These feet are used in tandem with a specific stitch that is used to accomplish the goal of each foot. For example, a straight foot is used with a straight stitch to..you guessed it... sew in a straight line!
Your machine's instruction manual will have a super cool section on what foot to use with each type of stitch. Your manual will have a section that looks like this to tell you needle types as well. It looks like this! THIS is the manual for a Brother sewing machine. Yours might vary!
Needles are typically colored according to their purpose. If you'd like to find a guide like this, your manual / google are great resources for similar charts. It's a great place to start to understand what needles are good for what. Many places like Joann's and Michael's as well as sewing websites sell replacement needle packs, or specific types of needles. There are heavy duty needle packs, stretch fabric needles, and needles for difficult fabrics.
Now that we've gone over the machine, let's talk about threading.
How to thread a machine:
First off, before I even get into threading, just know that threading a machine is basically the same across all machines (unless you have a specialized machine with 500 thread colors and fancy bits).
Your machine's manual will have a section of how to thread, and there are countless youtube videos for how to thread your exact machine! Make sure you hit every single step. If you start sewing and you've threaded it wrong, you might not even be able to sew at all. The thread might break, the needle might break, or worse! Be cautious and pay attention to the details! I will go over threading pretty basically since your manual should cover how to do so, and there are many video tutorials (which are arguably easier to understand since someone walks you through it).
Threading the upper half:
1. Place the spool in the machine. The direction of the thread coming out from the spool will be indicated on the machine. The image above shows that the thread comes from the underside of the spool instead of the upper part.
2. See how the thread winds around the thread guide? It will go on the outside of the thread guide, then make a sharp turn towards the front of the machine.
3. Next, wind the thread in a "U-turn" shape around and bottom and up towards the thread take-up lever. The lever can have a small loop that the thread will have to sit in. If you don't see the lever sticking up out of the top of the machine, use the hand wheel to raise it until it sticks out. Then, place the thread through the loop, and back down the left side. It will look like this.
4. Then, guide the thread with your hands through the tip of the needle. This is the most frustrating part. Tip: cut the thread with a sharp pair of scissors to ensure a clean cut, and wet the thread to make it rigid enough to pass through the eye of the needle.
There you go! You've threaded the upper half of the machine. The lower half is next.
Threading the Lower Half:
Now that your thread is threaded through the eye of the needle, you must thread the bobbin into the machine.
1. Prepare your bobbin. Your machine will have exact instructions for how to do this.
2. Once you have your bobbin, open the bobbin plate. That's the small plate covering where the bobbin is, next to the needle plate. Mine has these cool images on it that tell you which way to lay the bobbin down.
3. On the plate, the bobbin has the thread coming from the left side. Place the bobbin in the machine this way. Just drop it in. My machine has a top loading bobbin. Some are side loading! Be sure to read your instruction manual.
4. Now that the bobbin thread is just kinda sitting loosely outside of the machine, you need to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle plate. To do this, grab the thread that is through the needle in your left hand. Next, grab the hand wheel with your right hand. Hold the needle's thread taught (not too tight, but tight enough to not allow slack) and rotate the hand wheel towards your body until the needle goes down into the needle plate, and back up pulling the bobbin thread through the plate. If the bobbin was threaded correctly, both threads should be above the needle plate now. Move the upper needle thread through the foot and behind the machine. Pull a good amount of thread from both the bobbin and the needle (4 inches or so) to allow for the initial movement the machine does when it pulls the needle for the first stitch.
NOTE: You must thread the top of the machine first for this to work.
This process can become confusing easily. Please please read your instruction manual and watch a youtube video to fully understand this process before you attempt to do this based solely on my instructions. All machines use this process, but some might vary slightly!
Thread Tension and Stitch types:
This section covers: Tension, stitch types, tips
In addition to the section on needles, manuals will have a section that tells you what tension to use with each stitch. Pay attention to the tension and stitch descriptions. Your manual will tell you what thread tension is appropriate. Using the inappropriate thread tension can / will result in threads snapping, possible machine damage, and a "dirty" stitch.
Examples of tension mistakes:
- Too tight: Thread bunches the fabric together
- Too loose: Thread creates "loops" that can jam the machine
| Anchoring Stitches | These are machine stitches that are sewn with zero stitch length, to keep from pulling out. This term can also be used to refer to when you stitch backwards for a couple of stitches, to anchor it. |
| Edge/ Top Stitch | Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim or outer edge. Also known as a "Top Stitch" |
| Ladder Stitch | This is a stitch used to close large openings, or, alternatively, to join 2 pattern pieces seamlessly. Stitches are made at right angles to the fabric, creating a ladder-like formation. |
| Running Stitch | A hand-sewn stitch that weaves in and out of the material. This creates a dashed line effect. |
| Straight Stitch | A simple, straight stitched line. 4.5 tension |
| Top Stitch | A line of stitching parallel to a seam or edge, sewn from the right side. They can either be decorative or used to add strength to an item. |
| Under Stitch | Sewing a line of stitching along the seam allowance to the facing or lining to help keep it flat and prevent it from popping up and creating bulk under a seam. |
| Zigzag Stitch | A zigzag stitch which is simply a stitch made with a zigzag pattern. Often used to sew along raw edges to prevent them from fraying. |
A sewing machine usually has a dial for adjusting the tension for upper and lower threads (thread coming from the spool and thread coming from the bobbin). A good rule of thumb for tension is: The thicker the fabric, the higher the tension. However, always refer to your manual and look up the appropriate tension for your fabric! There's a reason why I refer to tension as "Everyone's Nightmare." Thread tension still baffles many longtime sewists. It is very temperamental.
The most common stitches you will use will most likely be: top stitch, straight stitch, and a zigzag stitch. Those are the ones I use more than anything. Of course, you may need help with these stitches. Youtube is your BEST FRIEND! There are thousands of videos on how to do each stitch.
I strongly recommend practicing each stitch on a piece of muslin or linen fabric. Do this to test your understanding of threading a machine, thread tension, each stitch, and how to start and finish a section of sewing. I spent many many hours sewing in a straight line to better understand how a machine works. Practice those lines! It's much better to practice sewing and make mistakes on scrap fabric rather than on your final piece.
Tools of the Trade
This section covers: Tools and equipment related to sewing
You will quickly discover that there are a few sewing tools that are commonly used in projects! I'll go over some basic - advanced tools that we might use for armor fabrication for now! These are not all essential, but they do help!
- Pins
- Sewing machine needles
- Hand sewing needles
- Self healing cutting mat
- Fabric tape measure
- Large rigid clear plastic measuring tool / ruler
- Rotary tool
- Fabric chalk (I use a white / black charcoal pencil)
- Sharp fabric only scissors
- Seam ripper
- Ironing board / iron
- Variety of thread, and in different thicknesses for heavier fabrics
- Dress form (not required, but it helps) Alternatives include:
- Duct tape dummies
- Mannequin
- Handheld Snap Fastener tool
- Leather punch
Strapping your armor can be accomplished with a few methods. I've commonly seen:
- Webbing and buckles
- Snaps
- Velcro
- Elastic
- Buttons
- Fasteners
- Zippers
Introduction: Hand Sewing
This section covers: Hand sewing definitions, basics, and examples
Another alternative to a machine is hand sewing. Hand sewing is how individuals have been sewing for centuries, so there are plenty of resources available for those that cannot afford a sewing machine right away or wish for a more traditional method! Briefly, I'll talk about a few hand sewing stitches that you can use with your projects.
Some of the stitches include:
- backstitching
- running stitch
- slip stitch
- chain stitch
- blanket stitch
- anchoring stitch
- cross stitch
Beginning to Sew: What's going on?
This section covers: Practicing!
Let's go over some basic tips for when you first start sewing!
As I mentioned previously, some of the best practice you can get initially is by testing each stitch on a piece of muslin or linen fabric. The benefit to using muslin is that it is cheap (usually under $5 a yard) and it is not stretchy. For a beginner, it is best to work with non stretchy fabric, even though most of our Halo undersuits require flexible, breathable, and stretchy fabric. Stretchy fabric requires a little more advanced handling. Muslin is a light, easy to use, and basic fabric that any experienced person uses for pattern making, drafting, and practicing!
I started sewing when I was really young, and my mom used to sit me down in front of the machine and watch me sew lines on muslin. I learned very quickly that sewing was equally machine and human skill. I used to pull the fabric, move it back and forth, and break needles now and then. Don't do what I did!
How to start practicing my way:
- Use your cutting mat and rotary tool (or just scissors) to cut out a straight piece of muslin. Make sure that the edges are straight and that you have a clean cut. I typically go for a 4 inch wide x 10 inch long strip. Try to make it as symmetrical as possible. If you're just starting, try drawing straight lines on the fabric in pencil to follow with the machine.
- Once you have your strip, thread your machine with thread of your choosing. I prefer something with a high contrast to the muslin so I can see if there are any issues with the tension or my chosen stitch.
- Lift the presser foot with the lever (usually to the right of the presser foot / needle) and place the muslin underneath. Lower the presser foot. Select straight stitch, and set the tension to 4.5. Make sure that the two threads that poke out from the needle and the bobbin are pulled to the back of the machine, so when you sew, it won't get caught in the process.
- Line up the top of the muslin to the needle. Go about 1/2 inch into the top of the fabric so that the machine doesn't eat the fabric. The needle cannot start on nothing, so you need to place the fabric at a decently spaced starting position underneath the needle.
- Put your foot on the pedal and hold the fabric gently but firmly with your hands. Press down slightly on the fabric to guide it. Now push that pedal!
- Do a backstitch to lock in the initial stitches. A backstitch is performed by holding down the backstitch lever, which makes the machine sew backwards over the stitches you already sewed. This should be done within the first few stitches you make (think, sew 4 stitches, backstitch 4, then sew normally over them all and continue).
- Once the machine is moving, only guide the fabric. Do NOT push the fabric through faster than it wants to go. Do NOT pull the fabric back. Both of those actions will result in bunched up fabric, wonky tension, and a bad stitch.
- You can guide the fabric's direction by aligning the fabric with the machine's built in ruler or measurements on either side of the needle plate. Those measurements are incredibly useful for keeping your stitch straight. With time, you might not need to use it as much. Practice sewing without looking at the guides, and with looking at them. I promise it makes a huge difference later on! Get those lines straight now!
- Once you've sewn a line, do another backstitch (Step 6) to lock your ending stitches in place. Cut the stitches using scissors or your machine's built in thread snipper (usually on the side).
- Congrats! You did it. Time to sew more complicated things!
Sewing is such a rewarding hobby, it just takes time. Don't give up because you make a mistake, or because you can't seem to get something. Even if sewing isn't your passion, and you just need to sew something small, I hope you can be patient with yourself and take it one step at a time!
Stepping it up: Patterns!
This section covers: Working with store-bought patterns, making your own, and measuring
Gone are the days of flipping through pattern books in Joann's. Patterns are available online, etsy, and pretty much and sewing website. They're relatively easy to use, and with a bit of knowledge, you can use a basic pattern for a multitude of projects. For our purposes, most of you who are here will be looking for detailed instructions on how to sew an undersuit. There's two options for that:
- Buying a similar undersuit pattern that looks like it can be modified to fit your Halo needs
- Patterning one from scratch
For the second option, things get a bit more advanced. I would not recommend freehanding patterns and sewing an entire bodysuit from scratch until you are extremely comfortable with everything I've previously stated. I'll go over this later, and more in depth on my own reach undersuit build.
Regardless of what path you choose to make an undersuit, you need to be fluent in sewing terms and techniques.
If you choose to attempt an undersuit, or another soft parts related project, and you do not know the basics of sewing, you have to assume the risk of wasting lots of time and money for your project. Making an undersuit is ADVANCED. Treat it as such. When it is time for you to work with a pattern, make sure you know what fabrics you want to use, your measurements, and your budget. You need to be able to reasonably understand your time, energy, and money commitments.
When you feel ready, select the pattern you want to use, make sure it fits your measurements. You can do this by reviewing the sizing guides for a lot of the patterns on the pattern itself. Reminder: many of the patterns will require further tailoring to fit you perfectly. Everyone has a different body, and companies mass produce these patterns in a few sizes, which are not all inclusive. Remember that when you buy a pattern, you're buying an averaged representation of what that company believes a "small," "medium," "large," or "x-large" looks like. Use the numerical measurements listed. NOT THE S,M,L, or XL tags. Your body is unique, and may not fit into the pattern perfectly. Knowing sewing techniques can help you really make the pieces fit you.
Measuring Your Bod:
I try to go into a new project already knowing my measurements. Use a cloth measuring tape to get an accurate reading! A typical measurement log that I will keep for myself looks like this:
| Body Part: | Measurement: |
| Neck circumference | x |
| Shoulder to Shoulder | x |
| Neck to heel | x |
| Wingspan | x |
| Overbust | x |
| Bust (regardless of gender, know this) | x |
| Underbust | x |
| Bicep circumference | x |
| Wrist | x |
| Forearm circumference | x |
| Waist | x |
| Hips | x |
| Thigh circumference | x |
| Inseam | x |
| Height | x |
Basically, all the measurements you might use for yourself in a program like Armorsmith can still apply here. There could be more, but I try to keep these basic ones updated. I keep a build log for all of my projects that has my measurements in case I need to fix something in the future or size it differently. It's very useful to know what you did when you did it. Date it per project.
When you measure yourself, or get a friend to help, remember a few key tips:
- Use a flexible cloth measuring tape. They give accurate readings, and a rigid ruler will be inaccurate on our bodies. A cloth measuring tape already behaves like a piece of fabric, so measuring with one as opposed to a hard ruler already gives you the benefit of better fitting clothes.
- With that being said, make sure that you aren't pulling too tightly or giving too much slack when you're measuring the circumference of, for example, your forearm, bicep, or thigh. The measuring tape should sit comfortably on your skin, not too tight, and not so loose that you can fit a finger easily between the tape measure and your body,
- Wear clothes that fit you closely. You don't need to wear clothes that are skin tight, but having clothes that are more close to your body shape will give you a more accurate reading. Wearing your favorite puffer jacket or cargo pants while measuring your body will give you some wild measurements. We're going for accuracy. Remember, you can make the clothes as big or small as you'd like! What's important is that you have a good understanding of your body as a base.
- Measure twice.
Patterns are an important part of sewing! Even if you aren't making your own patterns, understanding how they work can help you with the big picture.
I make my own patterns with masking tape, saran wrap, and a sharpie! Tutorial coming soon if you all desire one
That'll be it for this introduction. I have more topics I'd like to cover, but this is a great base to build upon in the future! Let me know what types of sewing info you'd like to see / learn about! If you made it this far, thank you for sticking through it!
-Indi
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