Molding Underarmor Pieces On The Cheap

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I have tried out vrogy's idea of tring to cast multiple parts using a different casting medium and it seems this will definetly be possible. One thing that I am sure of, is that this is not a universal underarmor solution, but it will work great for some areas. Anway, here's what I did this time

First I started with the same 3/8" X 3/8" graph paper, but I folded it into this shape:
[attachment=4120:untitled.JPG]

After completing the paper mold, I brushed on a coat of Super Glue with a small artists brush to make the paper rigid. It only took about 1 and 1/2 tubes to completly saturate the mold. THIS STEP SHOULD BE DONE OUTSIDE, WITH A RESPIRATOR, AND SAFETY GOGGLES/GLOVES ECT. That much Super Glue spread out over a large area will give off alot of very nasty fumes, so don't take a chance, use the right safety eqiupment. Also I buy my superglue at the dollar store, usually three tubes for a buck. Here's a pic of the finished mold:
[attachment=4116:mold_2a.jpg]
BTW: the superglue will turn your paintbrush into a stick after about five minutes, so use a cheap one.

After about 10 minutes the mold should be very hard and you can apply a release agent and fill it with your casting medium. For my test I used Vaseline as a release and a tube of self leveling polyurethane sealant. I know Vaseline and caulking aren't the best thing for this but it's what I had on hand. When I cast the parts for my armor, I'll get the proper stuff.
The polyurethane took almost a week to dry, but here's some shots of the finished part.
[attachment=4117:casting_a.jpg]
[attachment=4118:casting_b.jpg]
You can see in the pic below what happens when you use too much of the wrong stuff as a release agent.
[attachment=4119:casting_...l_b_edit.JPG]
Also the picture of the mold above was taken after the poly was removed. It's now ready to make another part.

Anyway, my underarmor is a long way off, so I probably won't do much with this thread until I get to that phase of my project, but if somebody has questions or pics, please post them. :cool:
 
This idea is turning into a new discovery like the hot-glue thing! Great super glue idea, re-using the mold will be great.

I don't think putting on too much of the release agent will make that much of a difference since its under armor. Better to have too much than not enough, right?
 
Here's my first attempt at 3D modeling. I'm trying to model the soft armor at the lower back using SketchUp.
[attachment=4323:pic__600_x_450_.jpg]
I tried to unfold it in pepakura, but didn't know where to begin. The auto unfold just produced a bunch of thorny shapes that were pretty much useless. Any suggestions, criticism, or help would be appreciated
Heres a link to the 3D files as well.
Lower Back (3ds, dwg, dxf, kmz, & skp.)
This is my first time using Filefront, so let me know if the link dosen't work.
 
I was tossing around this idea last night after reading this thread, contemplating different mold materials to pour the hot glue (or other casting medium) into, and still be able to peel it out.

My thought was: plaster? If you build a paper model of what you want to cast, resin the surface, and take a mold off of it in plaster, you could then apply the mold release to the inside of the plaster (my thought was that plaster may not need a release for the powdery texture of plaster) and pour the casting medium straight in. Only drawback to a solid mold is that there can't be any undercuts.

Seems like a great low-budget alternative. Plaster is cheap. So is hot glue.
 
I have tried using hot glue before to cast some things in, and it actually works pretty well. That's a great idea for an undersuit except that I would maybe attach the pieces to your suit like you said, but after that I would take another piece of fabric over the top, and either glue or sew where the edges are on each piece.
 
leo0116 said:
How do you import your sketchup files into the pep designer?
1. Click on the file tab
2. Then click on "Export".
3. Next click on "3D Model..." This wil open the file browser
4. Use the file browser to select a location to save your file.
5. Then give your file a name.
6. In the box labeled "Export Type" select a file type to save as from the dropdown menu. This step may take some trial & error because some file types don't export into pepakura very well. I have had the best luck with Google Earth 4(*.kmz) and OBJ (*.obj)

So what are you working on?
 
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Thanks, that's simple now that I know how. I'm basically just trying out the underarmor idea. I have a few pieces made for the ab area, and I just wanted to try out some pep modeling. I've got my helmet and part of my chest done so far, but I don't have the cash to get all my resin and fiberglass supplies at the moment, so im working on some of the cheaper stuff. I just have to figure out the unfolding process now XD Thanks again
 
hey i came up with a way to avoid using paint all together with the molding and painting rubber situation. my idea is to buy a white based silicon rubber for the mould but instead of painting try mixing food coloring in with it. ive tried it and it sets the same but i dont have a digi cam so i cant post pics at the moment but it does work and it saves alot of money compaired to buying paint and this way there is no worries about cracking paint and it is very useful if you wanted to use moulding to make pieces out of rubber for the inside of your helmet for the fitting and also can be used for adding more detail to your complete pep projects so you can add things you may want later for upgrade pourposes .example : say you just finished a halo helm and you decide you wana put a rubber trim around the outside base of your helm, just make a mould that fits your helm base and mix the silicon and food coloring together I.E wanting to color it to match your helm.after the mould sets just remove the mould and crazy glue the finished mould to the base.this can be used for a variety of ways to enhance your armore,helmets and much more. well let me know what you think. :)
 
Hmm, i could help with the 3D modeling for the pep stuff. but i must know if i can import pictures from solidworks or alibre? i can design some pretty complicated stuff on both, id prolly hav to figure out the pep unfolder thing but with the power of the internet ^^ i think that can be solved.
 
LukeTrocity said:
Did this work? Update?!
hi, this is going to be my first set of armor i try to make, would you call this a good one and easy for a first timer. note i'm only 15 so money is kind of tight. i can't get my hands on much fancy stuff. but this sounds perfect :lol:
 
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Akcent:Stryker said:
hi, this is going to be my first set of armor i try to make, would you call this a good one and easy for a first timer. note i'm only 15 so money is kind of tight. i can't get my hands on much fancy stuff. but this sounds perfect :lol:

Check out This Tutorial.

The basic idea I had was to create some semi-flexable accent pieces for my suit, not creating molds of full armor pieces.
(although there was someone here who was creating negative molds for weapons out of paper, username = Bevbor? ) Anyway, the above tutorial shows how others have used hot glue as an alternative to fiberlass to solidify their paper models. I have not had very much time to work on my armor in the last 3-4 months, so I haven't really done anything with this idea since I started this thread. I think Black Rose Immortal was going to try this on her underarmor, maybe check her threads for any progress. Anyway good luck with your armor.
 
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I've been working on something along these lines in Dragon-skin... The neck piece is done and I'm going to move onto the waistline under armor. If that large section can turn out alright then on to more.

This method seems very close and IMHO should work great for creating gappers to insert in peoples armor.

Keep up the good work, and keep us updated. I'll definitely be watching this post.
 
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