Uk Product Variants

JediFraz · Dec 19, 2007

This topic is intended to provide a list of parts users might find useful in constructing their armor, from the start through to the finish, and where the user might possibly get them. Links are sorted via categorty and type, for ease of navigation, and further contributions are welcome.

(Originally, this topic was started by Primal Weyland, but JediFraz will maintain it)

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Moulding Materials

Silicone Rubber
• Smooth-on Rebound 25
Casting Resins
• Smooth-on Plasti-Paste Mother Mould Resin
• Smooth-on Smooth Cast 300 Casting Resin

Jesmonoite which is a Uk alternative to Aqua Resin. i.e. Water based, non toxic.
• Jesmonoite
As well as Jesmonoite, The company also sells other products which may be of use, like fiberglass mat and a product called Fillite

Undersuit and Soft Armour

Tactical Clothing
• BDU Pants - Subdued Urban Camo
Gloves
• HATCH Defender II
Undersuit Tops
• Under Armour HeatGear Longsleeve Tee
• Thor Impact Rig
Undersuit Bottoms
• Under Armour HeatGear Leggings

Tools and Base Materials

Card
• Color Copy 200gsm 250 Sheets
Glue Gun
• Stick it! Cool Melt Glue Gun and Refills
Mouse Sander
• Black and Decker Mouse
Dremel
• Dremel 300 Rotary Tool Kit
Faceshield
• HJC Gold Iridium Visor
Wire Loom
• Split Wire Loom

Reinforcement and Detailing

Fibreglass Cloth
• David’s Glass Fibre Tissue
Fibreglass Mat
• David's Glass Fibre Mat
Resin
• David’s Fastglas Resin 500ml
Resin Hardener
• David's Fastglas Hardener
Body Filler
• Davids Isopon P38 Repair Kit
• U-POL Easy Lite Body Filler
Miscellaneous
• David’s Aluminium Mesh

Paints

Primer
• Plasti-kote Super Enamel Medium Grey Primer
Main Coat
• Humbrol Grass Green Modellers Spray
Finishing
• Hammerite Hammered Finish Silver Grey

Electronics

LEDs
• Nichia 5mm Super Bright Blue LEDs
• 8mm 12V Panel LEDs
Fan
• Maplin 40mm Ball Bearing DC Fans
Weapon Electronics
• Forge Europa 20.3mm Blue 7-segment Display
Same 7 Segment Display but from RS
RS 7 segment displays

Suppliers

East Coast Fiberglass Suppliers

Please PM me for any products you wish to have added to this list.

This list is by no means comprehensive - it is intended as a place to begin searching for products of good quality.

raven2751 · Dec 19, 2007

i tried plaster gause and it would work, however because the card gets very wet quickly you would need to make it water proof first, i found a good site for resin pm me for details

DKK · Dec 19, 2007

plaster might work as a fiberglass substitute but not for detailing with the gauze it gets bulky. and im pretty sure plaster is brittle and very heavy.

NZTK · Dec 20, 2007

Since Bondo is an American product, what's a good, viable UK-available substitute? And can I get it from B&Q?

Hey, Im in New Zealand and we have a lot of the same and similar brands as you guys, bondo (bog) is just plain old plastic putty, builders filler or auto body filler (its a ceramic and styrene addition cured plastic) mixture. Its all the exact same stuff with different labels on the tin, just look for a tin that has "warning contains styrene" on it and you're pretty much on the right track, you can get specialist types for auto body work that have differing qualities, but you dont really need them and they cost more. I buy it in 3.5 litre tins (CRC brand) for about 60NZD which is about 20 sterling i think. you'll also need a good blade putty for finishing the surface, before you use your filler primer to get the last of the fine dents out.
In my opinion plaster would be too brittle, even proper casting/masonry stones (hydrocal, ultrcal 30 etc) wont be strong enough at the thickness you're wanting, avoid plaster.
For your visor, the scout has a pretty simple visor shape so, you could take the lazy way out and just use a flat sheet of lexan with some gold mirror tint on it, or you could vac form one yourself to include the details and compound curve, vacforming such a small part (the scout visor is smaller than an A4 sheet) would be a pretty simple affair with a block or two of dried flower floral foam and more bondo. you can build a small vac table for about 5 dollars, and then you could sell copies to noobs. For sealing the final coat it all depends on what type of look you're going for, personally I'd use a plain matte clear coat. Make sure you seal it well though, you dont want to get moisture under your bog, it can expand and crack.

flying squirl · Dec 20, 2007

FS reporting for duity.

[/QUOTE="Primal Weyland"]Questions are as follows:<ul>[*]Since Bondo is an American product, what's a good, viable UK-available substitute? And can I get it from B&Q?[/list][/QUOTE]over here we call it isopon so i presume its the same there. if anyone would have it it would be B&Q. ask for car body filler. smells funky, like realy realy powerful perment marker solvent. (if you leave the tin open when working in a small space you will get dizzy)

<ul>[*]Would using plaster gauze (the same stuff a cast for a broken bone is set in) work fine for reinforcement? Or would it be viable as a complete replacement for Bondo/resin/fibreglass?[/list]

honestly, no. plaster bandage is fine for mask making and stuff but in the long term what happens is it gets lightly knocked over and over at the corners and the plaster there turns to dust (even under paint) and eventualy it turns into something like a lumpy cloth. also its quite heavy compared to the support it gives. you could crumble three layers in your hand quite easly.

having said that i wouldnt rule it out. if you were planning on making it as a buck (using it to make a mold) im sure it would work grand. the only reservation i would have is that the gause tends to go frizzy and take little chunks of plater with it when you pull it outa the way.

<ul>[*]What would be recommended as a sealant after the spraypainting stage?[/list]

ide go for a matte clear coat. not sure of the propper name but again B&Q would be the place to go.

<ul>[*]Any decent places other than the Almighty eBay for visors and the like? And what visors would be advisable?[/list]

yea, most moterbike places have em or will order them in but ide say ebay would be the cheapest place for em. then again the scout visor is quite thin (top to bottom) so ide say it would be easier to do the gold window film on some thick acitate or the like.

Primal Weyland · Dec 20, 2007

NZ-TK said:
Hey, Im in New Zealand and we have a lot of the same and similar brands as you guys, bondo (bog) is just plain old plastic putty, builders filler or auto body filler (its a ceramic and styrene addition cured plastic) mixture. Its all the exact same stuff with different labels on the tin, just look for a tin that has "warning contains styrene" on it and you're pretty much on the right track, you can get specialist types for auto body work that have differing qualities, but you dont really need them and they cost more. I buy it in 3.5 litre tins (CRC brand) for about 60NZD which is about 20 sterling i think. you'll also need a good blade putty for finishing the surface, before you use your filler primer to get the last of the fine dents out.
In my opinion plaster would be too brittle, even proper casting/masonry stones (hydrocal, ultrcal 30 etc) wont be strong enough at the thickness you're wanting, avoid plaster.
For your visor, the scout has a pretty simple visor shape so, you could take the lazy way out and just use a flat sheet of lexan with some gold mirror tint on it, or you could vac form one yourself to include the details and compound curve, vacforming such a small part (the scout visor is smaller than an A4 sheet) would be a pretty simple affair with a block or two of dried flower floral foam and more bondo. you can build a small vac table for about 5 dollars, and then you could sell copies to noobs. For sealing the final coat it all depends on what type of look you're going for, personally I'd use a plain matte clear coat. Make sure you seal it well though, you dont want to get moisture under your bog, it can expand and crack.

I... THINK I understood that...

I do apologise if I appear a little dim on this matter, but I have absolutely no idea of what it is I'll need or where to go for it. A lot of this is going to have to be explained to me quite patiently, because I've never done this before and I'm liable to go wrong somewhere. The tutorials I've read aren't exactly very specific on these matters, and this is what's causing me problems...

raven2751 · Jan 11, 2008

for any uk based people found a great supplier for fiberglass and resin http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/store/

Primal Weyland · Jan 11, 2008

I love you. Any ideas or specific filler products?

raven2751 · Jan 11, 2008

nope, but i'm gonna call them to find out what products would suit best.

will keep you posted as to any progress

Primal Weyland · Jan 11, 2008

Alreet. Thanks, amigo.

Sinjinsmiley · Jan 12, 2008

I will probably get my Resin and Fiberglass from Halfords:
Resin
Fiberglass Mat

I might try using this as a filler and see how it turns out although if you put filler into the Halfords search you can see that they have some alternatives.

smilie120 · Jan 12, 2008

Primal Weyland said:
I love you. Any ideas or specific filler products?

Go down to any auto garage/or body repair garage, theyl have it there, its in a balck tin and usualy says somthing like P340 instead of bondo, or if you have a Screwfix catalouge they have real cheap fiberglas and resin, and filler in there!

raven2751 · Jan 12, 2008

after speaking to East Coast Fibreglass Supplies i was recomended the following

[attachment=2572:filler.jpg]
filler (£3.24) there are 2 size tins a 250ml tin and a 3.5lt tin

[attachment=2571:synolite_1kilo.JPG]
resin includes catalyst (£5.32)

check website for required quantities

Primal Weyland · Jan 12, 2008

Cool... and thanks a lot. I can use this information.

pacbury · Jan 13, 2008

oh and if you go to the range (its like a big um shop) they sell body filler for like £1.95 a tub

bevbor · Jan 26, 2008

Want to mix your own Bondo putty?

Bondo is based on unsaturated polyester resin, minerals and glass microspheres. The normal formulation of a lightweight bondo body filler is the following:

1. unsaturated polyester resin (flexible putty resin) = 50 (of 100) parts by weight
2. titanium dioxide (pigment) = two parts by weight - can be ignored if you don't care of colour
3. talc powder 200 mesh = 44 parts by weight
4. fumed silica (Aerosil 200) = one part by weight - can be ignored? I suppose yes.
5. glass microspheres (scotchlite k 15) = three parts by weight - definitely can be ignored. scotchlite only purpose - to reflect light.

The filler is cured using two parts of dibenzoyl peroxide paste.

So, polyester resin + talc powder = Bondo?
Too easy

NZTK · Jan 26, 2008

Interesting, I wonder if it can be made cheaper than buying it. I may have to have a play with this recipe, thanks bevbor

Primal Weyland · Jan 26, 2008

Hm. Please do - unfortunately I don't have the funds or time right now to be experimenting with techniques, so if a solution could be found then I'd be more than willing to try it...

NZTK · Jan 26, 2008

the problem is, I can get a bag of french chalk and mix it up, but a litre of resin costs the same as a litre of filler, so its not really worth the effort.

bevbor · Jan 26, 2008

NZ-TK said:
the problem is, I can get a bag of french chalk and mix it up, but a litre of resin costs the same as a litre of filler, so its not really worth the effort.

Hmm... Here 1/2 kg polyester resin with hardener costs 45,
and 1/2 kg genuine Bondo body filler costs 68...
So for me it is wotrh.

Uk Product Variants

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Jr Member

Jr Member

Well-Known Member

Sr Member

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Jr Member

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Jr Member

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Sr Member

Jr Member

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