Serpent ZX
Member
It seems, one of the main issues that people seem to always bring up is painting. They end up "doing something wrong in the process" or not following steps correctly. Some need visuals for learning, and others need something written. Hopefully this will help. I typed this up a little bit ago. I have been using this as a base for spray can painting for years, but it's bascially the same technique Adam uses. Maybe this will clear up his inbox from questions as well. Make sure you read well... And mods, if you would like to stickie this, go for it. These steps will help a lot, and also eliminate a lot of problems some people are having. If you think there is anything I missed, I would like only the experienced people to add. Thank you.
First Adam's...
Then Mine...
Before anything, just keep in mind, that choosing your paints, and primers is one of the most important things. Make sure they are compatible with each other, as some types will cause others to crack, shrink, expand, fade, or peel (acrylic, enamel, laquer, water based, oil based). Try to use the same primer throughout your project, and also the same brand. Rustoleum is most people's choice because it is easy to find, has the most choices in textures, colors, and types, and is easy to use to repair. They are semi resistant to chemicals, and are mostly enamel based. It's not just coincidence, or copying that people use the same materials when painting. Also, another main factor, is TIME. One of the biggest problems that people have, is they don't wait long enough for the paint to dry. Some people live in Texas, where it's usually very hot and dry, and so don't have to exactly apply to the rules and can wait a few hours. Others live in cooler, humid areas, where they have to give a full day of dry time. Labels usually tell you when it's dry to the touch, or when it can be handled only. But products that say to give a full 24 hour dry time, and a 7 day period for full durability are usually enamels.
***TIP: Letting your object sit roughly an hour, or 2 in the environment which you plan to paint between layers, and coatings allows it to get to the same temperature as the room your painting in, and allows the primers and paints to stick better. Also helps if you let your cans sit in a small bucket of warm water to increase the pressure slightly in the cans, so the paint comes out smoother, faster, and creates an all around better paint job.***
Also, if you fear your object is exposed to dust, pollen, hair, or just want to give it a quick cleaning before processes, sections, or coatings, you can wipe your object down quickly with a lint free rag, and a small amount of Denatured Alcohol. Be careful not to soak it though. It will dry quickly, and leave a clean surface behind.
SECTION 1
1.) 60 - 80 Grit Wet Sanding.
Wash, and dry. When washing, use a non-abrasive pad, with hot water, and a few drops of soft dish soap. Make sure you rinse well, and dry well with a lint free cloth, and then air dry.
2.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
3.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer.
4.) 180 Grit Wet Sanding with a solution of 25% Denatured Alcohol, and 75% Water.
Wash, and dry.
5.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
6.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer.
7.) 320 Grit Wet Sanding with just water.
Wash, and dry.
Let Standing Dry for 1 day.
If done correctly, and carefully, your object should retain all details sharply, and accurately. Most of your sanding of imperfections should have been done in the detailing process before painting... So after this preparation it should also retain any, and all deep scratches, cuts, and pits in your object also, but what this process has done is give your object a very smooth glass-like feel, leveled it, filled in any smaller inperfections, and almost able to actually see reflections in your surface. It has also given your next process of painting a very strong foundation for your base color to stick to. This foundation is almost as if it was part of your object, and should have an extremely high chance of NOT chipping or peeling, and has made the surface a very hard durable shell.
Think of each main process as a whole. The priming process should be thought of as one layer. You need a good foundation for a building so it doesn't collapse. Next, when you start applying your color, black washing, and adding the dry brush of silver for a worn through look, that's it's own layer also as a whole.
Another thing, Primer, and Paint are 2 different things. There is a reason why you apply Primer first, before Painting. They are different make-ups. Primer is also drier, and chalkier. Another reason why you use primer to black wash instead of paints, even though some paints can be used.
SECTION 2
8.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
9.) Light misting of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer, but just enough to cover this time (Part of black washing step).
10.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Base Color. For the Original MC, most use Rustoleum American Accents Oregano Smooth Satin Finish.
Let Standing Dry for 1 day.
Again, before actually black washing, just remember to let all paints to flash off, and dry fully. Labels are on paints for a reason. Depending on what your using the paints for, sometimes the labels don't directly apply (black washing)... But dry times usually always stand firm. So just because the label says the paint is dry in 15 minutes, they assume that it's safe to handle, and touch, not wipe, or rub with another color, since that's not exactly what they are intended for.
***TIP: Just be careful, and test on less noticable areas first or on a test object with similar characteristics. When your object or test is dry to the touch according to the labels, move your object to another area that is hotter, or maybe out on a porch where sun is with a nice breeze to 'bake' and flash off more efficiently, and since the surface is dry to the touch, dust, pollen, bugs, or other contaminants won't harm it, or stick.***
Temperature, and humidity DO make a big difference. You want a soft finish, or a hard durable finish? And good rags to use to do your swiping are usually headbands, new cotton socks (not used, or washed since they retain chemicals that could alter their absorbancy), or clean lint free painter's rags which can be bought on the cheap in bundles. Just try not to use something along the lines of a napkin, paper towel, and old rag from the garage or toilet paper, and you'll be fine. Also, dry brushing is not a coat per-say, so it's adhesion properties don't really matter, and neither does the type of paint.
***FACT: Part of spray paint flashing, or curing process is part of the distance your spraying from. Since they contain solvents usually, they flash off in the air as they are being sprayed, and that's why they dry so quickly to the touch.***
This is why you spray the brush from a distance. The solvents don't really have a chance to hinder your object's paint job, and there is so little being applied.
SECTION 3
11.) Black wash. Lightly spray Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer fairly close to the surface, in spots where you want to have definition and stand out, recessed areas, or in intricate areas. Mostly anywhere you want an aged look. Wipe away in very light swipes in the same direction with a clean, chemical and lint free rag. DON'T rub, and be careful not to go in a circular motion. Try to only make 2 - 3 passes.
12.) VERY lightly mist with your color again, from a reasonable distance, but not enough to cover your black washing, or to actually put another layer of paint on. This will highlight more raised areas.
13.) Dry brush. Spray your choice of a metallic silver paint from a distance onto a wide bristle brush. Usually a 2 inch brush will be enough. Rub it against any corners, or raised surfaces you want to have a worn look. Just make sure the paint isn't too wet. You only want enough so slight force is required to make it rub off the brush.
Let a full week of Standing Dry Time pass before full durability is achieved.
First Adam's...
Then Mine...
Before anything, just keep in mind, that choosing your paints, and primers is one of the most important things. Make sure they are compatible with each other, as some types will cause others to crack, shrink, expand, fade, or peel (acrylic, enamel, laquer, water based, oil based). Try to use the same primer throughout your project, and also the same brand. Rustoleum is most people's choice because it is easy to find, has the most choices in textures, colors, and types, and is easy to use to repair. They are semi resistant to chemicals, and are mostly enamel based. It's not just coincidence, or copying that people use the same materials when painting. Also, another main factor, is TIME. One of the biggest problems that people have, is they don't wait long enough for the paint to dry. Some people live in Texas, where it's usually very hot and dry, and so don't have to exactly apply to the rules and can wait a few hours. Others live in cooler, humid areas, where they have to give a full day of dry time. Labels usually tell you when it's dry to the touch, or when it can be handled only. But products that say to give a full 24 hour dry time, and a 7 day period for full durability are usually enamels.
***TIP: Letting your object sit roughly an hour, or 2 in the environment which you plan to paint between layers, and coatings allows it to get to the same temperature as the room your painting in, and allows the primers and paints to stick better. Also helps if you let your cans sit in a small bucket of warm water to increase the pressure slightly in the cans, so the paint comes out smoother, faster, and creates an all around better paint job.***
Also, if you fear your object is exposed to dust, pollen, hair, or just want to give it a quick cleaning before processes, sections, or coatings, you can wipe your object down quickly with a lint free rag, and a small amount of Denatured Alcohol. Be careful not to soak it though. It will dry quickly, and leave a clean surface behind.
SECTION 1
1.) 60 - 80 Grit Wet Sanding.
Wash, and dry. When washing, use a non-abrasive pad, with hot water, and a few drops of soft dish soap. Make sure you rinse well, and dry well with a lint free cloth, and then air dry.
2.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
3.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer.
4.) 180 Grit Wet Sanding with a solution of 25% Denatured Alcohol, and 75% Water.
Wash, and dry.
5.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
6.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer.
7.) 320 Grit Wet Sanding with just water.
Wash, and dry.
Let Standing Dry for 1 day.
If done correctly, and carefully, your object should retain all details sharply, and accurately. Most of your sanding of imperfections should have been done in the detailing process before painting... So after this preparation it should also retain any, and all deep scratches, cuts, and pits in your object also, but what this process has done is give your object a very smooth glass-like feel, leveled it, filled in any smaller inperfections, and almost able to actually see reflections in your surface. It has also given your next process of painting a very strong foundation for your base color to stick to. This foundation is almost as if it was part of your object, and should have an extremely high chance of NOT chipping or peeling, and has made the surface a very hard durable shell.
Think of each main process as a whole. The priming process should be thought of as one layer. You need a good foundation for a building so it doesn't collapse. Next, when you start applying your color, black washing, and adding the dry brush of silver for a worn through look, that's it's own layer also as a whole.
Another thing, Primer, and Paint are 2 different things. There is a reason why you apply Primer first, before Painting. They are different make-ups. Primer is also drier, and chalkier. Another reason why you use primer to black wash instead of paints, even though some paints can be used.
SECTION 2
8.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
9.) Light misting of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer, but just enough to cover this time (Part of black washing step).
10.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Base Color. For the Original MC, most use Rustoleum American Accents Oregano Smooth Satin Finish.
Let Standing Dry for 1 day.
Again, before actually black washing, just remember to let all paints to flash off, and dry fully. Labels are on paints for a reason. Depending on what your using the paints for, sometimes the labels don't directly apply (black washing)... But dry times usually always stand firm. So just because the label says the paint is dry in 15 minutes, they assume that it's safe to handle, and touch, not wipe, or rub with another color, since that's not exactly what they are intended for.
***TIP: Just be careful, and test on less noticable areas first or on a test object with similar characteristics. When your object or test is dry to the touch according to the labels, move your object to another area that is hotter, or maybe out on a porch where sun is with a nice breeze to 'bake' and flash off more efficiently, and since the surface is dry to the touch, dust, pollen, bugs, or other contaminants won't harm it, or stick.***
Temperature, and humidity DO make a big difference. You want a soft finish, or a hard durable finish? And good rags to use to do your swiping are usually headbands, new cotton socks (not used, or washed since they retain chemicals that could alter their absorbancy), or clean lint free painter's rags which can be bought on the cheap in bundles. Just try not to use something along the lines of a napkin, paper towel, and old rag from the garage or toilet paper, and you'll be fine. Also, dry brushing is not a coat per-say, so it's adhesion properties don't really matter, and neither does the type of paint.
***FACT: Part of spray paint flashing, or curing process is part of the distance your spraying from. Since they contain solvents usually, they flash off in the air as they are being sprayed, and that's why they dry so quickly to the touch.***
This is why you spray the brush from a distance. The solvents don't really have a chance to hinder your object's paint job, and there is so little being applied.
SECTION 3
11.) Black wash. Lightly spray Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer fairly close to the surface, in spots where you want to have definition and stand out, recessed areas, or in intricate areas. Mostly anywhere you want an aged look. Wipe away in very light swipes in the same direction with a clean, chemical and lint free rag. DON'T rub, and be careful not to go in a circular motion. Try to only make 2 - 3 passes.
12.) VERY lightly mist with your color again, from a reasonable distance, but not enough to cover your black washing, or to actually put another layer of paint on. This will highlight more raised areas.
13.) Dry brush. Spray your choice of a metallic silver paint from a distance onto a wide bristle brush. Usually a 2 inch brush will be enough. Rub it against any corners, or raised surfaces you want to have a worn look. Just make sure the paint isn't too wet. You only want enough so slight force is required to make it rub off the brush.
Let a full week of Standing Dry Time pass before full durability is achieved.
Last edited by a moderator:
