The Ideal Glue

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Alien26

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Ok, here's a question I'm throwing out to anyone:
I don't feel like burning myself by using the hot glue method, but I've been hearing that just about any glue is fine as long as the paper sticks and doesn't come off without some force. I have some modeling glue that I use for my plastic models. It dries fairly quickly (about 10-15 seconds or less) and I figured, if it works on plastic, it should work for cardstock. Is this alright to use for this sort of thing?
 
Dr. Temujin said:
Ok, here's a question I'm throwing out to anyone:
I don't feel like burning myself by using the hot glue method, but I've been hearing that just about any glue is fine as long as the paper sticks and doesn't come off without some force. I have some modeling glue that I use for my plastic models. It dries fairly quickly (about 10-15 seconds or less) and I figured, if it works on plastic, it should work for cardstock. Is this alright to use for this sort of thing?

Resin will ruin a glue stick, but other than that...
Modeling glue should be okay. This logic may seem faulty but resin smells EXACTLY like model glue when you use it, I suspect they're made of similar stuff.
As much as I strongly encourage you to go with hot glue, due to faster dry times, guaranteed hold, and relative ease of use... (You stop burning yourself a few pieces in anyway ;)) Modeling glue or super glue would be your only other two options.
 
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I use Elmerswashable school glue stick"disapearing purple" never had any trouble with resin bothering it built my chest helm and arm pieces from it but on the bigger pieces i generall after completion take a hot glue gin and add a little strenght and fill or cover imperfections
 
Jjack said:
I use Elmerswashable school glue stick"disapearing purple" never had any trouble with resin bothering it built my chest helm and arm pieces from it but on the bigger pieces i generall after completion take a hot glue gin and add a little strenght and fill or cover imperfections


Really? I tried tat same glue stick, and it seemed like it just fell apart. Weird. Perhaps you're applying it better so the resin doesn't make contact with glue, just paper.
 
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I swear by super glue... and at it when my fingers get stuck to the paper... but I'm old and remember the commercials with the construction worker hanging from the girder. I also remember the commercials with the Marlboro man, but I digress... what was I talking about? oh yeah, Super Glue.

EDIT: Don't smoke. It's bad. You don't look cool... unless it's cigars. Cigars are cool. Don't smoke.
 
well never had resin tear apart a piece i apply the glue to tab and FIRMLY press together ive had to take them apart before and sumtime u have to tear paper to take it loose and when i resine i do a thin layer on top first then put it on thick on the inside then if need be go back over outside and add clothe or matte to inside
 
As with most people, I highly recommend hot glue. I have a medium tempurature gun, and it's hot, but not that hot to burn you. I put the glue in, and hold the paper together with my fingers right after applying, and it's been fine. But in the end, its whatever works best for the user. I recommend trying the different alternatives.

BTW the smell from resin and that glue alike is the smell of styrene.
 
dont use the plastic modlers glue, it wont work, if you are reffering to the plastic glue used to put miniatures together (i'm a GW modeler too so i think i know the stuff you are talking about) that stuff only sticks plastics together, because its designed only to do that, it wont glue anythign else (if my chemistry serves, it only works because it melts the plastics its applied to)

hot glue guns ftw, and dont be such a little girl about getting burned, if its burning you, its because you are doing it wrong! you soon learn how to avoid being burned!
 
Here's what I do:
I use the cheap, Elmer's white school glue, but I don't put it onto the pep directly out of the bottle. A trick I learned building architectural models was to get a small piece of scrap paper or cardboard and pour out a little bit of glue and let it tack up for a few minutes (you can do this right before you cut/score your piece). Then, when you're ready for glueing, just put a little on a toothpick (or I use my finger) and apply it. The glue will grab the paper relatively quickly and will be a nice strong connection with very little drying time on the model.
Now, I haven't resined anything yet, so someone else will have to tell you how it stands up to resining, but from what I've heard it doesn't have any problems.
 
A quick thing to add. If you glue hot glue erroneously, you just put a lighter to a pocket knife, slide it between the folds, and it's undone. No tearing, nothing. It's really easy.
 
I have tried a few different methods, and it seems a combination works best for me. I'm now using Tacky Glue for the majority of pieces (which I got at Wal-Mart for $.88), super glue gel where I need a quick (and really strong) bond, and on the inside of pieces I sometimes use hot glue to even out and fill certain areas. I've also used glue sticks. So far nothing I've tried has been adversely affected by resin.
Someone posted that they had success using water based contact cement but I've never tried it. Anyone try carpenters wood glue?

Juggernaut
 
i like hot glue and you get enough practice that you learn that as long as you dont touch the metal nozzle and you wait like a second after the glue comes out before touching it you wont get burned. i love it you can keep working cause it drys quickly but also if you mess up you heat it a bit and it returns to a liquid. and i have had no problem whatsoever with resin eating through anything personaly i believe those rumers are fake so use whatevery glue you fell you pep the best with. try tacky glue too if you dont want hot glue its sticky so you can keep working as it dries
 
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