BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
By the way, for those who want to save a bit of money, instead of buying a spatula, I just cut my own from the side of an empty plastic milk carton.
Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Second layer of body-filler sanded and shaped. One coat of dark primer applied. Once dry, a light sand all over will reveal all the low spots for filling in the next layer.
Each layer of body-filler and subsequent sand makes it rounder and more symmetrical.
Each layer of body-filler and subsequent sand makes it rounder and more symmetrical.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Primer sanded back to reveal low spots. Ready for final (hopefully) coat of body filler to complete shaping and smoothing.
Admiral Tiberius
Jr Member
I used an empty gift card myself ha, but nice work, sanding is a real pain...
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Worth it though....
Yeah I know, they are all starting to look the same. This is hopefully the third and final layer of body-filler, curing overnight and ready for final sanding tomorrow. Then the detailing starts and it really starts to look the part!
Sorry, this is a bit of a blurry one. Stuck with only a crappy phone-camera today.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Home from work - Too wet to build the observatory. To light to go inside the house. (Wasted daylight) Started fine-sanding and trimming edges etc. Now back to wedding-photo processing!! Busy life!
Third sanding and some detailing. Made the cut lines to separate the face-plate. Coated with etch primer to reveal rough spots for fill and finishing.
More sanding, more filling, a little more detailing. Built up the bottom lip a bit. Cut in a couple of join-lines. Primed again - it helps locate rough patches.
1.Building up the bottom lip and correcting some distortion caused by excessive sanding on one side of the chin. Starting to shape the crown recess and tidying the eye edges.
2. Added a little too much hardener to the mix, causing it to go off VERY quickly! Goes lumpy and gets very hard to work, spread and smooth. Will go over it with a thinner mix after it cures.
3. Looking more symmetrical. Time to sand it again.
Third sanding and some detailing. Made the cut lines to separate the face-plate. Coated with etch primer to reveal rough spots for fill and finishing.
More sanding, more filling, a little more detailing. Built up the bottom lip a bit. Cut in a couple of join-lines. Primed again - it helps locate rough patches.
1.Building up the bottom lip and correcting some distortion caused by excessive sanding on one side of the chin. Starting to shape the crown recess and tidying the eye edges.
2. Added a little too much hardener to the mix, causing it to go off VERY quickly! Goes lumpy and gets very hard to work, spread and smooth. Will go over it with a thinner mix after it cures.
3. Looking more symmetrical. Time to sand it again.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
1. Shaping the chin and bottom lip. Cutting in seams.
2. Chin starting to shape up and look more tough, rigid and tech.
3. Ready for yet another sand.
4. Lookin cool.
2. Chin starting to shape up and look more tough, rigid and tech.
3. Ready for yet another sand.
4. Lookin cool.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
1. Seperated the face-plate and gave it a trim and tidy on the edges and inside. First spray of chrome to get a bit of an idea. More sanding on the outside to be done, with each coat getting smoother.
2. Faceplate back on. Contrast shot.
2. Faceplate back on. Contrast shot.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thanks mate.
Still some work to go, but starting to look the goods.
Still some work to go, but starting to look the goods.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Found a nice fine woven fibreglass cloth in Bunnings for $17. Much better than the chopped-strand mat.
Comparison between chopped strand fibreglass mat and woven fibreglass cloth.
The finer cloth is easier to lay and cut to shape and size.
Resin applied to fibreglass cloth on the inside of the faceplate. Edges will be trimmed after curing overnight.
Fibreglass cloth and resin applied to layer the inside of the helmet. Edges will be trimmed after it has cured overnight.
Comparison between chopped strand fibreglass mat and woven fibreglass cloth.
The finer cloth is easier to lay and cut to shape and size.
Resin applied to fibreglass cloth on the inside of the faceplate. Edges will be trimmed after curing overnight.
Fibreglass cloth and resin applied to layer the inside of the helmet. Edges will be trimmed after it has cured overnight.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Yeah, it's so much easier to work with!
1. Reinforcing the inside with fibreglass cloth and resin.
2. Before I trim the cured fibreglass edges off, a little filler to finish off shaping the helmet recess.
3. Got a curve on the cheek I'm not happy with. It's a little too smooth and round, so I've built it up a little to reshape it to be more angular and with a sharper corner.
4. Faceplate has had it's last application of bog. Very fine except on the cheek corners and a small flat spot on the top left forehead.
5. Scruffy lookin' Tony Stark.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
1. The weakest part of the helmet is the recess at the top-centre that centres the faceplate. I've already cracked it twice while sanding it. Solution - a piece of scrap brass plate.
2. Bent the brass plate to conform with the helmet contours.
3. laying fibreglass mat over the brass plate.
4 & 5. Fibreglass mat over brass plate resined and curing.
6. Shinier and shinier!
7. Faceplate off.
8. Faceplate on.
2. Bent the brass plate to conform with the helmet contours.
3. laying fibreglass mat over the brass plate.
4 & 5. Fibreglass mat over brass plate resined and curing.
6. Shinier and shinier!
7. Faceplate off.
8. Faceplate on.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
You are progressing quite nicely. Keep it up!
Thank you brother!
hartkasprops
Jr Member
What color are you painting the helmet?
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
I tried the black helmet with chrome faceplate, but the black hides all the cut lines of the helmet. I am rethinking the colour scheme.
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