My Halo Reach Spartan Build [1st Time] (PIC HEAVY) {WIP}

Starport592 · Jan 14, 2013

So whenever halloween comes around, I've always had this thought in the back of my head about how cool it'd be to have a spartan costume (Maybe it's just me. Meh). I never got around to it. Every year. So this time, I'm gunna make sure I have a suit. This album will contain pics of my progress and other stuff related to the project.This will be done for Halloween next year (Senior Year!), but if I finish early (with swimming I probably won't buuuut.) sometime quarter 4 I might wear it. So anyways the plans for my build are kinda ambitious, I'll admit. Don't get me wrong, I have a lot of respect for the craftsmanship that presents itself here on the forums, and I sure don't think that it will be some walk in the park. I know it will take time and dedication, but even though this is my first time it don't seem impossible, so meh. I'll give it a shot anyway. So how far I get

:

As a noob, I didn't realize that there was an image cap on the post. Each item listed below is hyperlinked. You can click on them to see the status of that item. If you click on a piece and you don't go anywhere, it's because I got just as far making it as you just went clicking on it.

Armor:

[ ][post=663521]Mk V Scout Helmet with HU/RS attachment (Jun's Helmet)[/post]
[ ]Mk V Tactical/Patrol Chest (Without the sniper shroud, just my personal preference.)
[ ]Wrist Tacpad (iTouch/iPhone holder, device usable on arm),
[ ]Right ODST Shoulder Pad
[ ]Left ODST Sniper Should Pad
[ ]Gungir Knee Pads
[ ]Spartan III Boots
[ ]Spartan III Gloves

Weapons:

[ ]M392 Designated Marksman Rifle (with working counter, sounds and muzzle flash.Again, far fetched, but whatever. We'll see how far I get.)
[ ][post=663522]MC6/Socom (Halo 3 ODST pistol)[/post]
[ ]Sniper Rifle System 99 Anti-Matériel (Reach Sniper.)
[ ]M7S (Halo 3 ODST SMG)

[ ]Jetpack (Maybe? Lol. Probs not tho.)

My Work Area

The sad part is that it's the cleanest it's ever been in ages. '_'

And another shot. *You can see my unfinished helmet

*

Photos:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1178...ms/5833294234434626625?authkey=CKLQwYjtr96XXQ

Starport592 · Jan 19, 2013

If anyone could maybe give me some tips or something or tell me if I'm doing something wrong, that'd be great.

I just figured I'd post on a website full of pros so that I could get some feedback.

Sometimes I can't help but feel lost with this stuff.

Spartan Rocktimus · Jan 19, 2013

You should use cardstock if you have it. It might save you a lot of frustration down the line.

Seth Knight · Jan 19, 2013

What file are you using for Jun's helmet (Scout)? It looks like one of the older files made, I could suggest a higher def (and not too hard to assemble) model if you'd like. Also always use cardstock for pep builds, normal copy paper doesn't hold up and you will always have problems with it.
It looks like the scale of your helmet is off a bit as well, just a tad bit big, did you re scale it at all, or did you go with the standard size? Pepakura Designer is the program that you will have to have to resize.

Hope any of my mutterings help, good luck Spartan.

-Seth

Starport592 · Jan 19, 2013

Seth_Knight_of_New_Wales said:
What file are you using for Jun's helmet (Scout)? It looks like one of the older files made, I could suggest a higher def (and not too hard to assemble) model if you'd like. Also always use cardstock for pep builds, normal copy paper doesn't hold up and you will always have problems with it.
It looks like the scale of your helmet is off a bit as well, just a tad bit big, did you re scale it at all, or did you go with the standard size? Pepakura Designer is the program that you will have to have to resize.

Hope any of my mutterings help, good luck Spartan.

-Seth

I used Pepakura Designer, and noticed that it was a bit big

. But I'll just throw some padding inside. I'm a bit lazy and honestly high-rez pepakura intimidates me.

It's the same reason I did a slice file for the ODST pistol.

Spartan-Rocktimus said:
You should use cardstock if you have it. It might save you a lot of frustration down the line.

I redid the parts originally made with printer paper with proper cardstock. Cut the stuff out with an exacto knife and then re-peped the parts in cardboard.

Never using printer paper again.

I did resize it, because it was originally WAAAAY too big

. So I'm ok with it now. I have spare padding lying around somewhere. (And yes, the file I am using is quite old, I found it on the *Official Halo Reach Pepakura Thread* or something like that.

*Also, my head barely fits in the bottom of it, but once my head is in, there's LOTS AND LOTS of space. Hence I'll just throw in padding or maybe cut out the bottom of the helmet a little bit.

And thanks for the input guys! I really appreciate it, really!

--

Also, I plan to resin the ODST pistol I have, but as you can see in the pictures I cut two of the cardboard slices in half and taped them back together with masking tape.

Would that make it more difficult to resin later? I'm just curious because I feel like it would be ok, but I've heard not to use masking tape.

Would covering the masking tape in cardstock solve this problem?

--

Fun fact, I also originally glued half my helmet together with elmer's glue. I've heard that when you have to resin the helmet, it'll just fall appart, but ehh.

I guess I'll learn the hard way

.

I applied hot-glue to all the lines in which I glued with elmer's glue originally. But Idk. I think it will hold up. Whatever. I wouldn't mind re-gluing/re-peping those parts.

I guess maybe a learning experience

Spartan Rocktimus · Jan 19, 2013

Carpathia used elmer's glue in his armor, and it's among the best ever made. Check it out.

Starport592 · Jan 19, 2013

Spartan-Rocktimus said:
Carpathia used elmer's glue in his armor, and it's among the best ever made. Check it out.

Thanks, will do!

I like elmer's glue because you can pinch the pieces together and get a really nice seal between pieces.

Starport592 · Feb 21, 2013

I haven't touched my armor ever since swimming started. But since the swim season is over, it's back to the helmet.

Right now, I'm working on the helmet attachment for the scout helmet (reach).

If anyone could give me some useful tips on how to pep some of the more intricate pepakuras out there, I'd be very grateful.

I'm not saying that there's a magic trick out there that would make this EASY. Please don't take that the wrong way.

If I have to tough it out, I'll do it. But in terms of cutting and folding really thin tabs where the lines and numbers overlap, some help would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe if someone could direct me to a tutorial video/thread? I've searched but I haven't found anything that helps too much.

Basically if someone could give me a few tips on peping, say, HD files, I'd be very grateful.

This is my first build, and while I know mistakes are INEVITABLE, I want to keep them to a minimum.

HammerE419 · Feb 21, 2013

Hey first off nice work!
i started using pens to trace over all of my folding lines ( long or short) and it has significantly increased the look of my pep work. Some people use a dull knife but i dont want to run the risk of chopping the piece in half. i use two different color pens, one for valley fold and one for mountain folds. its worked out pretty nicely so far. and as far as the smaller, more intricate places, if you look at it and think you can use foam or bondo later on in the process to get the small details then by all means dont bother peping it out. on my reach armor i didnt even bother peping out the holes on the front casue theyre so small.

anyways hope i can help

EDIT: Also if youre not already i would suggest using 110lb card stock. that stuff works wonders specially later on in the resin stage.

Halex · Feb 21, 2013

Starport592 said:
I haven't touched my armor ever since swimming started. But since the swim season is over, it's back to the helmet.

Right now, I'm working on the helmet attachment for the scout helmet (reach).

If anyone could give me some useful tips on how to pep some of the more intricate pepakuras out there, I'd be very grateful.

I'm not saying that there's a magic trick out there that would make this EASY. Please don't take that the wrong way.

If I have to tough it out, I'll do it. But in terms of cutting and folding really thin tabs where the lines and numbers overlap, some help would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe if someone could direct me to a tutorial video/thread? I've searched but I haven't found anything that helps too much.

Basically if someone could give me a few tips on peping, say, HD files, I'd be very grateful.

This is my first build, and while I know mistakes are INEVITABLE, I want to keep them to a minimum.

One thing that may help (provided you have a work space close to a computer) is to print the pep files without line numbers. It's a slower process, but it makes it much much easier to see each fold line. You just have to use pep designer to see where each piece goes and how it fits together.

Personally I like the Xacto scoring method also, though pens made valley folds slightly easier. Beyond that, it's a lot of patience. It's looking good overall though, keep it up!

Starport592 · Feb 26, 2013

HammerE419 said:
Hey first off nice work!
i started using pens to trace over all of my folding lines ( long or short) and it has significantly increased the look of my pep work. Some people use a dull knife but i dont want to run the risk of chopping the piece in half. i use two different color pens, one for valley fold and one for mountain folds. its worked out pretty nicely so far. and as far as the smaller, more intricate places, if you look at it and think you can use foam or bondo later on in the process to get the small details then by all means dont bother peping it out. on my reach armor i didnt even bother peping out the holes on the front casue theyre so small.

anyways hope i can help

EDIT: Also if youre not already i would suggest using 110lb card stock. that stuff works wonders specially later on in the resin stage.

Thanks! I liked your tutorial! I plan on getting 110lb card stock but at the moment I think I have something like 60lbs? Not sure. But it comes down to re-enforcement I guess.

Starport592 · Feb 26, 2013

Halex said:
One thing that may help (provided you have a work space close to a computer) is to print the pep files without line numbers. It's a slower process, but it makes it much much easier to see each fold line. You just have to use pep designer to see where each piece goes and how it fits together.

Personally I like the Xacto scoring method also, though pens made valley folds slightly easier. Beyond that, it's a lot of patience. It's looking good overall though, keep it up!

I've tried the Xacto scoring method, and I agree with you. I do like the folds that I can get from an Xacto knife, but like you said, I think i'll only do them on mountain folds. Valley folds are easier with the pen.

So I guess I'm going to have to rough it out. I'm just scared that with the Xacto knife, I"ll cut the paper. So for like the chestplate or less detailed items, I'll probably just stick with a pen.

thorn696 · Feb 26, 2013

For your glue I like using Tacky glue for the same reason. Tacky glue just drys a little faster. I have never had any parts come apart in resin phase, so you're good.

Lycanthropica · Feb 26, 2013

looking good, I want to hurry up and make a helmet now!

PHIL 907 · Feb 27, 2013

Nice Jun helmet! Looks like your making your way along.

-PHIL

Starport592 · Feb 28, 2013

Sorry I don't have any pics.

But I'm having a problem with the pepping.

So I've been following the suggestions that you guys have been giving me, (Which I really appreciate, btw) and so far the results have been BEAUTIFUL.

However, now I'm stuck.

There is this one piece, and I know how it's supposed to connect, but I can't get the piece into the right position for gluing. Again, i'm sorry that I don't have a picture right now, but I'll get one up asap.

Basically, there's this really thin strip of paper, with tabs on either side, like this:

Code:

  __
 |  ¦\
 | 1¦|
 |……¦/
 |  ¦\
 | 2¦|
 |……¦/____
 |  ¦  2  |
 |  ¦    1|
 |……¦[U]  3  [/U]|
 |  |\___/
 | 3|
 |__|

...But it's mini.

Like I've literally destroyed this piece trying to glue it to itself.

Is there any advice anyone could give me on this? I imagine hot glue might do it. I'll upload a proper picture later.

Halex · Feb 28, 2013

And the award for "Best ASCII Pepakura" goes to... =D

Two things off the top of my head... tweezers, if you don't have them, are great for the small parts. I can't pep without them since I have rather large hands that like to HULK SMASH the smaller pieces. Even better than tweezers are forceps/hemostats. They're traditionally medical tools used to clamp things shut, but they work very well for holding small pep parts together while they dry. Hobby Lobby has a jewelry tool set that comes with a holding tool along the same lines as well.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/stainless-steel-jewelry-tweezers-111724/

My other thought is that positive relief (it looks like the piece is designed to go on top of something rather than underneath?) is relatively easy to add in the bondo stage. Build a small box by cutting out layers of sticky-backed craft foam to achieve desired depth, add bondo to the void, peel foam and sand to shape.

Not sure if either of those help, but it will be easier to see the issue when you're able to get pics up.

Starport592 · Feb 28, 2013

Sorry for the wait!

Halex said:
And the award for "Best ASCII Pepakura" goes to... =D

Two things off the top of my head... tweezers, if you don't have them, are great for the small parts. I can't pep without them since I have rather large hands that like to HULK SMASH the smaller pieces. Even better than tweezers are forceps/hemostats. They're traditionally medical tools used to clamp things shut, but they work very well for holding small pep parts together while they dry. Hobby Lobby has a jewelry tool set that comes with a holding tool along the same lines as well.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/stainless-steel-jewelry-tweezers-111724/

My other thought is that positive relief (it looks like the piece is designed to go on top of something rather than underneath?) is relatively easy to add in the bondo stage. Build a small box by cutting out layers of sticky-backed craft foam to achieve desired depth, add bondo to the void, peel foam and sand to shape.

Not sure if either of those help, but it will be easier to see the issue when you're able to get pics up.

I didn't realize how high resolution my camera was! Anyways, here's a picture of the part that I can't fold.

Here's a size comparison:

(Sorry for the long fingernails

)

And here's the actual pep image:

Also thanks on that ASCII thing

. Was in school. Didn't have my piece with me.

I'll try tweezers, I've got those. It'd make sense to use those, now that I think about it. But MAN. That's TINY.

Starport592 · Feb 28, 2013

Also, it appears that there is a limit to the amount of images that I am able to post in 1 post. I think i'm going to dedicate posts within this thread to specific parts of my armor. It'll be a bit trippy, since I didn't do it earlier. (I didn't know!) But should allow me to properly display all the images that I plan to upload. There will be links so you'll most-likely be jumping all over the place but it shouldn't be too much of a problem. :/

Starport592 · Feb 28, 2013

Mk V Scout Helmet with HU/RS attachment:

[thread=39212]BACK[/thread]

So when I first tried pepakura, I made the horrible mistake of using printer paper. HORRIBLE. It's okay, I managed to save the bucket by taking an exacto knife and cutting out the printer paper, and then using (not cardstock, but something a little less thick. It meets the thickness I need and I have tons of it so I *think* I'm okay but...) at this point I'm done peping my helmet. At least, I mean I don't plan on peping any more of it. This should be sufficient, I think. The reason I only peped the center piece of the visor into my helmet is because my helmet (I swear I tried my best to glue the pieces as close and accurate as possible.) was off-center. In order to keep it in check, I simply peped the center part of the visor so that when I resin the helmet, I can simply cut that part out anyways. I am going to work on the HU/RS attatchment now.

Maybe I'm just being lazy. Well I am being lazy

. But I think if I resin it I will be fine. Once it's solid I'll be ready for painting.

Planned Features:

[ ]Taking artistic license into account, I'm going to mix and match armors. I'll probably make another attachment for the helmet and just stick it on the side. That way I can add a flashlight.
[ ]Tinted and colored visor. I plan to make the visor out of multiple layers of plastic from soda bottles. I'll carve one layer of plastic for the design of the visor, and have the other hold a metallic see-through sheet (Paper or something? I've seen this stuff before but I have no idea what it's called.) And for coloring I might take a cheap colored folder from say, staples or office depot or something and just cut it up and put it behind the two layers of soda bottle plastic. I'm thinking that I'm going to make the visor blue.

See image:

This part is the part I first started on. Made out of printer paper. Ugh:

Different Angles:

Me wearing my helmet. I made the rest out of cardstock. I eventually remade the part I did in printer paper with cardstock (ish) paper, so It's all good

.

[thread=39212]

BACK

[/thread]

My Halo Reach Spartan Build [1st Time] (PIC HEAVY) {WIP}

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