Introduction/ MK VI Spartan WIP

BoneRiot · Jan 24, 2013

Hey all, name's Fel. I make larp/boffer weapons and work in the haunt industry and after a back injury finally had the downtime to get around to working on pep files and making myself a spartan!
I'm still pretty fresh into this, so the only pictures i have so far are just the helmet pep, though i've got the first layer of fiberglass resin down.

Where i'm at i've encountered 3 questions:
1. Is there a temperature range for proper fiberglass resining? I live in buffalo New York aka Hoth. I don't have a heated room to work in so i do all my work in the garage.
2. Is a pep question, My next step is the chest piece as i may move to foam for the smaller parts, i'm using Flyingsquirrel's file and wondering how/what to do about the pieces that in pep viewer go over multiple pages, if there's a trick to this or if i have to just move the pieces around myself to different pages.

Otherwise i'll be updating this thread with my progress to joining the proud and not necessarily disposable 405th.

Halex · Jan 25, 2013

BoneRiot said:
1. Is there a temperature range for proper fiberglass resining? I live in buffalo New York aka Hoth. I don't have a heated room to work in so i do all my work in the garage.

It's best to use resin above 50F. I've done it colder but it doesn't end as well, usually being very tacky for days. If you have the space to do it, an alternative is a small enclosure (seen everything from cardboard boxes to pet carriers) with a space heater blowing into it to keep the temperature about 75F. As long as it's ventilated, it can help speed the curing process significantly.

Haven't used it before myself, but about to try it this weekend. Hotlanta isn't living up to the name.

BoneRiot said:
2. Is a pep question, My next step is the chest piece as i may move to foam for the smaller parts, i'm using Flyingsquirrel's file and wondering how/what to do about the pieces that in pep viewer go over multiple pages, if there's a trick to this or if i have to just move the pieces around myself to different pages.

You'll have to move the pieces around to find the right layout that fits with your scale. Some parts you may have to cut down if they're still too large to fit on a page. Ctrl + N in pep designer brings up the tool that allows you to cut pieces at folds.

Your pep work looks very clean so far; keep it up!

BoneRiot · Jan 25, 2013

Thank you so much, honestly the forums that i'm used to frequenting have left me expecting anger and flamming responses to pretty much everything so the info is hugely appreciated. I think i may give that head box idea a try and see what success i can have with it, updates sure to follow.

hobbitdude13 · Jan 25, 2013

I've never tried the "heat box" idea but usually I either add more hardener to the mixture, or I borrow my wife's hair dryer.
Good pep work! My first helmet ended up lopsided as hell and I had to pitch it.

rickrtickr · Jan 25, 2013

BoneRiot said:
2. Is a pep question, My next step is the chest piece as i may move to foam for the smaller parts, i'm using Flyingsquirrel's file and wondering how/what to do about the pieces that in pep viewer go over multiple pages, if there's a trick to this or if i have to just move the pieces around myself to different pages.

Otherwise i'll be updating this thread with my progress to joining the proud and not necessarily disposable 405th.

if you are talking about the braces to keep the model from warping there is a 1/2 inch of safe area after printing. but if there are actual parts that overlap you will want to rearrange so that the parts fit in one page.

Halex · Jan 25, 2013

BoneRiot said:
Thank you so much, honestly the forums that i'm used to frequenting have left me expecting anger and flamming responses to pretty much everything so the info is hugely appreciated. I think i may give that head box idea a try and see what success i can have with it, updates sure to follow.

Yeah I know what you mean, but the people here are generally helpful and nice, provided you do your part with research and reading first.

BoneRiot · Feb 3, 2013

So, progress continues to be made. after a week of driving myself insane i finished the pep'ing of my chest piece. It took me till i was about 3/4 through to see that i definitely could have scaled it down a bit but i'm a heavy at heart so i may tweak it with a few heavier addons and make myself a turret as my primary weapon. Now to just sit and twiddle my thumbs until i can get access to a warm ventilated place to do the fiberglassing on it and finish the fiberglassing of my helmet.

Edit: also i realized looking at the photos i could have had it sitting farther back on my shoulders a bit, but either way i think it gets the sizing and finished step across.

spartan IV · Feb 3, 2013

Great job on the scaling, that looks great.

BoneRiot · Feb 9, 2013

I'm realizing just how much every step of the way i get worried that i might not be doing it right, then seeing things start to look right (that saturated fiberglass resin look) and i get a bit more confident. Helmet is now done with the fiberglass phase, ready for bondo. Got about 3/4 of my chest/back fiberglass stripped before i ran out of cloth, but hopefully on monday i'll catch up and be done with fiberglass for head+chest.

BoneRiot · Feb 13, 2013

I officially hate winter. Just being restricted to limited time that i can get out and work on more pieces. In the downtime though i managed to pep one of the biceps for my MKVI and pep'd a warrior helmet because i adore it and want it to interchange and dick around with.

Progress is progress. Picking up another sheet of fiberglass cloth on friday and some bondo. I think i'm going to try Rondoing the warrior helmet so that i can say i've done both methods. Whichever once turns out best is gonna get cast in time. Next week is gonna be all about learning how to work with rondo for me.

DBmike · Feb 13, 2013

It's best to use resin above 50F. I've done it colder but it doesn't end as well, usually being very tacky for days. If you have the space to do it, an alternative is a small enclosure (seen everything from cardboard boxes to pet carriers) with a space heater blowing into it to keep the temperature about 75F. As long as it's ventilated, it can help speed the curing process significantly.

I tried used this heat box method while at Drack's house today. I was impressed with the results!!
It's worth a go if its cold out!
The build is looking good so far

BoneRiot · Feb 21, 2013

Updates-ish. So being on workman's comp is one of the most frustrating things ever, primarily because i'm living on $150 a week, and there's no guarentee that my check will come in any sort of timely manner, so i'm sitting here with my Chest/Back and helmet done and fiberglassed waiting for bondo.

Upside is that i finished my other shoulder and have resin'd my Warrior Helmet. I want to learn as much as possible during this process so i'm going to rondo the warrior helmet so sadly i'm waiting on the bondo for that as well.

My biggest engagement lately has been attempting to 3D print my handplates.

Ironically i was able to get to the point of printing the model with little issue, it's thickened a bit and mounted on rods essentially so when it prints i'll just need to take my dremel buffer tool to it to smooth it out a bit. Unfortunately it turns out the printer i have access to is a model 15 Cupcake (read as: old as heck, first gen one) so i may be waiting a few more months to be able to actually get it printed when my lab gets the money together and buys a RepRap (new smoother running one). Until then the file will wait. Actually if anyone would like the file for it i'd be happy to share, it's scaled to 70mm across to fit my relatively averaged adult male hand.

TheBearMan · Feb 21, 2013

Great work so far man!

The scaling on the chest is excellent and im interested to see how the 3D print of that hand plate comes out.

Keep up the great work!!

ISU DPS · Feb 22, 2013

This is looking like a very solid build. can't wait to see the finished project! Great work!

BoneRiot · Feb 22, 2013

Actually i've got a random question someone might be able to help with. I've got my helmet glassed and fiberglassed on the inside, read to move on to bondo. As such i've moved it to my house so i can just do the bondo in my basement but i'm noticing the helmet still has some intense fiberglass stank. I know obviously the oustide'll get primed and coated in bondo but any recommendations as far as reducing the fumes or am i just kinds out of luck for the time being.

Introduction/ MK VI Spartan WIP

BoneRiot

New Member

Halex

Jr Member

BoneRiot

New Member

hobbitdude13

Active Member

rickrtickr

Active Member

Halex

Jr Member

BoneRiot

New Member

spartan IV

Jr Member

BoneRiot

New Member

BoneRiot

New Member

DBmike

Well-Known Member

BoneRiot

New Member

TheBearMan

Member

ISU DPS

New Member

BoneRiot

New Member

Similar threads

Similar threads