Design of real visor

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bevbor

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Drawing a sketch on MC face
2362853509_132b1732c2_o.jpg


Projecting the sketch onto visor surface
2362853571_cdb9efd3c9_o.jpg


Best regards
 
Yep, neat solidworks tools..
I'd like to see the geometry behind the visor, though.
3dsketches to filled surfaces and extrude-between?
 
Vrogy said:
Yep, neat solidworks tools..
I'd like to see the geometry behind the visor, though.
3dsketches to filled surfaces and extrude-between?
All is simple.

First - spline surface on MC model
2362911017_77da5fa34a_o.jpg


Second - copy it to side :)
2362911065_ac4afec375_o.jpg


Then, add some thickness
2363741890_2aaf372604_o.jpg


And cut out corners
2362911193_772b9419b8_o.jpg


Now - lil more projections and we almost done...
2363723170_b629783c8b_o.jpg
 
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NZ-TK said:
will you be having these manufactured somehow?
Because SolidWorks is only one step before real CNCing, it is possible to manufacture these parts...
But who will allow us to do this? :)
 
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NZ-TK said:
I dont think a cnc company would care what they're making, they just want money
can you find any CNC firm dealing with making of such type of details? if yes, i'll send you my model :)
 
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NZ-TK said:
I dont think a cnc company would care what they're making, they just want money


Perhaps, but Ive tried dealing with professional companies, as well as others to get parts machined/CNC milled. For instance, Ive been searching for the past few months for a company that will machine jango fett Westar-34 blasters. We have all the drawings, with every aspect broken down, with measurments/angles, everything required to make them.

From what we've been encountering is that mentality from machinests, thinking that making sci-fi props or objects is 'stupid' and they think its a waste of time, despite the amount of interest and money they would/can make from doing such runs. Thats at least the case with the Jango blasters.

However, the visor, I think will have a better chance at getting made, but from my experience when gathering information and actually talking to the machinist who run those business with the equipment, cant just make one. They will often need to make much more then just that. They will usually have a fixed price for programming/time and labor, and obviously for materials.

I think its very doable, but you may want to seek smaller or a private CNC machinist since Im assuming you want to get a buck milled, from that, the better forms of casting in this case, well, would very well be vac-forming. But hey, lets see what you can get done. Good work

-tubachris
 
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Im lucky in the sense that a friend of mine owns a very large cnc mill, and he's also a fellow tk. I hear what you're saying about dealing with companies, there is a very important thing to remember when dealing with any company though, NEVER tell them you're a hobby prop builder. To most it can seem like an odd hobby, and generally a lot of bigger firms are only interested in dealing with other companies, Ive run into a few that simply wont take on jobs from the general public. The best way to get them to take you seriously is tell them you're looking at having a run of parts made, ie 500 or so, then ask if they can provide you with a few prototypes for testing. Make something credible up, say you're a final year design student or say something along the lines of "I design helmets for a small company that manufactures and imports helmets and components for various sports, snow boarding, football etc, we need some visors made for a limited run of signature series gold helmets based on this design, how much for 10 prototypes please?" Don't tell them its part of a copyrighted design, don't tell them you like dressing up like a robot. It is very hard to take a person seriously when they look like a video game character. Money talks more than anything.
 
2 Nicktendo: Thanks a lot for your HQ reference picture!

Vrogy said:
Yep, neat solidworks tools..
I'd like to see the geometry behind the visor, though.
3dsketches to filled surfaces and extrude-between?

Geometry behind? I used extrude, but you know, it requires direction vector and all edges after extrude are parallel.
I did it but result was ugly. So I rollbacked and...

1. built edges for future surfaces perpendicular (with relationship) to surface
2368587328_03e47e443a_o.jpg


2. built boundary surfaces between them
2367753309_07e1d2ee1a_o.jpg


Here all "walls" are in places
2368587230_c22c2d66ff_o.jpg


3. start to build "roofs" by boundary surfaces, but later rejected this and rollbacked (beacuse results are ugly)
2367753417_17094420c9_o.jpg


4. just added offset surface to main face and trimmed it with details' curves.
so result now is like this:
2368587606_88c41e7f0f_o.jpg

2367767463_29a0c414ba_o.jpg


Work is still far from the end. Need to smooth edges. This isn't an easy task, because the body still isn't solid.
Standard fillet/round/chamfer doesn't work on its edges.
Please don't forget, it is only my 3rd work in SolidWorks :)
Best regards.
 
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I would recommend leaving the edges hard, If you were to have the file cut in aluminium for use as a master for forming acrylic, at 1.5 to 2mm the plastic will soften the edges when drawn over the pattern.
 
Is there any way you could take that pattern, and flatten it? It would make a great template for the double-visor method.
 
Nicktendo said:
Is there any way you could take that pattern, and flatten it? It would make a great template for the double-visor method.

No problem, easy as cake

But before sadly I need to do many work from the beginning.
I just realised I did HUGE mistake.
Sketch from picture where all is in PERSPECTIVE was projected to model that wasn't in perspective view.
So as you can see on photos, details on second layer are slightly deviating.
Karamba mia, I need to rollback again =(
 
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Sorry to hear about that mistake dude. I just thought of something. If for some reason you are not able to go ahead and get the visor CNC milled in to a buck, what you could do is do it yourself. I was going through your armor build and I can already see how proficient you are at the paper construction of your amor. What you could do, is make a visor in the same fashion, then fiberglass it until its strong and sturdy. What you then could do, is mold it, either in plaster or even silicone w/ fiberglass jacket. From that, you can make a solid cast out of plaster, alginate, or even pure bondo. Once cured, you will have a usuable vac-form buck for casting a visor. I will say that the plaster buck will only last for one pull, no more (because it will become brittle under heat/pressure). Ive see makers use alginate for their vac-form bucks, and I think that would last longer then using plaster. Bondo I know for a fact will last probably between the life of plaster and the alginate, but I cant say that for sure.
 
Thats how I make the EVA visors. I highly doubt alginate would last longer than plaster. Ultracal 30 is what you want to make vac masters from (cheaply)
 
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