Halo: Reach 3D armor pieces question
- Thread starter DamsBwy
- Start date
- Member DIN
- S111
We have a curated list of free 3D Printing STLs that can be found here:
www.405th.com
In that thread you will find files for:
Noble 1 - Carter-A259 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male" (Chest, back, bicep, forearm, Waist, Thigh, Shin, and Boot)
Helmet - Commando
Left Shoulder - Commando
Right Shoulder - Mark V
Chest - Assault/Commando
Knees - FJ/Para
Attachments - TacPad
Noble 2 - Catherine-B320 - Full Base Mark 5 "Female"
Helmet - Air Assault
Left Shoulder - FJ/Para
Right Shoulder - FJ/Para
Chest - Mark V Female
Knees - Default
Attachments - Tactical Hardcase
Noble 3 - Jun-A266 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male"
Helmet - Scout HU/RS
Left Shoulder - Sniper/14.5x114 Rounds
Right Shoulder - Sniper/Tactical Knife
Chest - Tactical/Patrol
Knees - FJ/Para
Attachments - Tactical/UGPS
Noble 4 - Emil-A239 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male"
Helmet - EVA HUL
Left Shoulder - Operator
Right Shoulder - Security/Kukri
Chest - Assault/Sapper
Knees - FJ/Para
Attachments - Assault Breacher, Tactical Soft Case
Noble 5 - Jorge-052 - Mark 5
Helmet - Grenadier
Left Shoulder - Grenadier
Right Shoulder - EVA
Chest - Grenadier/Collar UA
Knees - Grenadier
Attachments - UA Bracer, Mark IV/LBE-A Field Case
Noble 6 - Mjolnir - Mark 5 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male"
Helmet - Mark V(B)
Left Shoulder - Mark V
Right Shoulder - Mark V
Chest - Mark V
Knees - Mark V
As well as
CQB Helmet
CQC Helmet with U/A HUL Attachments
EOD Helmet (No CBRN)
GRD Helmet
Hazop Helmet and Shoulders
Mark V Helmet
Halo Reach TACPAD
Operator Shoulders
Operator Helmets
Pilot Helmet
Recon Helmet
Anything not listed or found in that thread will probably be available from a paid file vendor or model maker.
Free 3D Model Index
3D printers are rapidly becoming a prop and costume builders best friend and many of the members of the 405th are extremely talented at developing high definition and accurate models for printing. This thread is an index to help both new builders find quality models and showcase the hard work of...
www.405th.com
In that thread you will find files for:
Noble 1 - Carter-A259 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male" (Chest, back, bicep, forearm, Waist, Thigh, Shin, and Boot)
Helmet - Commando
Left Shoulder - Commando
Right Shoulder - Mark V
Chest - Assault/Commando
Knees - FJ/Para
Attachments - TacPad
Noble 2 - Catherine-B320 - Full Base Mark 5 "Female"
Helmet - Air Assault
Left Shoulder - FJ/Para
Right Shoulder - FJ/Para
Chest - Mark V Female
Knees - Default
Attachments - Tactical Hardcase
Noble 3 - Jun-A266 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male"
Helmet - Scout HU/RS
Left Shoulder - Sniper/14.5x114 Rounds
Right Shoulder - Sniper/Tactical Knife
Chest - Tactical/Patrol
Knees - FJ/Para
Attachments - Tactical/UGPS
Noble 4 - Emil-A239 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male"
Helmet - EVA HUL
Left Shoulder - Operator
Right Shoulder - Security/Kukri
Chest - Assault/Sapper
Knees - FJ/Para
Attachments - Assault Breacher, Tactical Soft Case
Noble 5 - Jorge-052 - Mark 5
Helmet - Grenadier
Left Shoulder - Grenadier
Right Shoulder - EVA
Chest - Grenadier/Collar UA
Knees - Grenadier
Attachments - UA Bracer, Mark IV/LBE-A Field Case
Noble 6 - Mjolnir - Mark 5 - Full Base Mark 5 "Male"
Helmet - Mark V(B)
Left Shoulder - Mark V
Right Shoulder - Mark V
Chest - Mark V
Knees - Mark V
As well as
CQB Helmet
CQC Helmet with U/A HUL Attachments
EOD Helmet (No CBRN)
GRD Helmet
Hazop Helmet and Shoulders
Mark V Helmet
Halo Reach TACPAD
Operator Shoulders
Operator Helmets
Pilot Helmet
Recon Helmet
Anything not listed or found in that thread will probably be available from a paid file vendor or model maker.
DamsBwy
New Member
Thank you
And now my last 3 questions not to disturb.
1. What filament do you recommend?
2. How can I fasten the parts? so that, for example, the biceps do not slip when putting it on.
3. Do you recommend dividing the pieces so that they can be used once finished?
As Mega Construx armors
If that is the case
Where do you recommend cuts?
And now my last 3 questions not to disturb.
1. What filament do you recommend?
2. How can I fasten the parts? so that, for example, the biceps do not slip when putting it on.
3. Do you recommend dividing the pieces so that they can be used once finished?
As Mega Construx armors
If that is the case
Where do you recommend cuts?
Attachments
YTunz
Jr Member
Hi there!
1) For my armor I used PLA but I've seen other people use PETG (Better Heat Resistance) and TPU (More expensive and harder to print, but lighter). I chose PLA since it was more readily available when I started my armor.
2) It depends on the armor. Some files have built in tracks for straps while others I know use velcro for attachment. I've heard of people using straps to effectively make a harness to attach their armor to.
3) this would be a better question for someone that has made Spartan Armor. I have only made ODST armor and that isn't as sealed as Spartan armor is.
Hope this helps!
Also, which parts are you planning on printing?
1) For my armor I used PLA but I've seen other people use PETG (Better Heat Resistance) and TPU (More expensive and harder to print, but lighter). I chose PLA since it was more readily available when I started my armor.
2) It depends on the armor. Some files have built in tracks for straps while others I know use velcro for attachment. I've heard of people using straps to effectively make a harness to attach their armor to.
3) this would be a better question for someone that has made Spartan Armor. I have only made ODST armor and that isn't as sealed as Spartan armor is.
Hope this helps!
Also, which parts are you planning on printing?
DamsBwy
New Member
SgtSaint
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S027
===========
My regular 'new armorer' post:
===========
If you didn't know - the 405th Reddit and Facebook and Discord server/pages are just a social media front end to the much large 405th organization. Tip of the iceberg. Head over to the proper 405th website for a vast amount of material, help, articles, resources and what will probably help you the most: Other people's build threads.
The welcome book lays out what you need to know.
https://www.405th.com/.../405th-welcome-booklet.52168/
The actual 405th website has a vast armory of files.
The Armory
And 3d model index
Free 3D Model Index
A curated list of tutorials:
https://www.405th.com/forums/threads/tutorial-index.45940/
One of many, many, many build threads.
MK-VI gen3, as Silver timeline (TV series)
https://www.405th.com/.../build-2-mk-vi-gen-3-with-some.../
Discord server:
Join the 405th Infantry Division Discord Server!
Not saying: Don't ask
Am saying: There are so many experienced armorers that have poured collective man-years into really good build threads, articles and tutorials filled with do's and don'ts and wish-I-had-knowns that you're doing yourself a disservice by not reading them. A casual afternoon of reading the tales of those that came before you would put you MONTHS further ahead, save you time, money, effort, wastage and exasperation. Not to mention after all those people's hard work making the articles it would be a shame for them to not get read.
Next build your skills. Don't use your helmet or real armor as test parts to learn on if you've never done this before, don't know sanding plastic printed parts etc. Maybe print 20 test XYZ cubes at like 60mm. Use those to learn good sanding, smoothing and painting techniques. If you can't make a flat cube look like metal then you know you aren't ready to tackle armor. Plus you have 6 sides per cube to test painting on and use as a visual record of "This is silver over gloss black" etc.
After the simple cubes move on to a "speed shape". These are commonly used to test paints on over various contours. This gives you a good model to practice sanding more complex shapes with curves and grooves on. Again, you're working up towards the complex shapes of helmets and armor. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826498
Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.
If you've never done an armor build before you might want your first armor to be one without the really tight tolerances of a Spartan or Ironman. I confess I made about 3 Spartan armors to get my first one right. It was very Goldilocks of "This is too big, this is too small, this is just right" with every part. If I had known then what I learned through the process I would have made a Mandalorian (least actual armor) then an ODST then Spartan and actually gotten 2-3 good wearable costumes instead of a lot of waste. I mean, if you're going to print 3 costumes either way, might well have 3 costumes- instead of 1 + a pile of wrong-sized prints, right?
Least tight of tolerance first, and work towards tightest tolerance.
So like:
If you are new to 3d printing or considering buying your first 3d printer just so you can make an armor:
3d printers have come a long way since I started with them in 2009. But they still aren't fully plug-n-play like a department store inkjet: But some of the newest & smallest ones are getting there. There's a lot more to 3d printing than just hitting print: Like knowing your different materials and when to use them. Or knowing when more walls and less infill, or more infill and less walls is the right choice. You should expect there to be a learning curve and at $20/spool that curve comes with a cost. I'm just saying walk into 3d printing with your eyes open.
"What's your printer?" thread on the 405th forum:
What's Your Printer?
I wish I knew this about printers before buying discussion:
"I wish I knew" Tips When Starting to 3d Print
My favorite section of any YouTuber's channels is the recent post by Frankly Built who is well regarded in this genre - about taking some time to learn before doing:
Jumping right to armor is really not the best way to go when beginning 3d printing. You really want to work up to something this big and specialized. Work up to things so big that a 3% goof can mean added costs, joints that lock up and you can't bend your elbow etc. Little easy things first… Things with no supports to start. Move up to props like pistols. And keep moving upward over time.
• A few settings differences can be the difference between a part too weak to be used and printing your armor so heavy it's exhausting to wear. The difference between a $10 part and a $40 part adds up to a significant difference over an entire armor.
If it's your first printer taking a hybrid approach can actually save money. Get the small bed printer for home use and see if you even like doing this. Large 500mm-1000mm machines aren't cheap and take up space and fails are proportionately expensive. If you love doing it and can justify the big printer as your second or third machine, go for it. But if you want to make the smaller things at home and outsource the big stuff to a print farm like www.starbase3d.com (mine for transparency) the extra-large printers mean being able to have big armor pieces like legs/chest/back done in strong seamless single-prints instead of several pieces to be glued and blended into invisibility.
My regular 'new armorer' post:
===========
If you didn't know - the 405th Reddit and Facebook and Discord server/pages are just a social media front end to the much large 405th organization. Tip of the iceberg. Head over to the proper 405th website for a vast amount of material, help, articles, resources and what will probably help you the most: Other people's build threads.
The welcome book lays out what you need to know.
https://www.405th.com/.../405th-welcome-booklet.52168/
The actual 405th website has a vast armory of files.
The Armory
And 3d model index
Free 3D Model Index
A curated list of tutorials:
https://www.405th.com/forums/threads/tutorial-index.45940/
One of many, many, many build threads.
MK-VI gen3, as Silver timeline (TV series)
https://www.405th.com/.../build-2-mk-vi-gen-3-with-some.../
Discord server:
Join the 405th Infantry Division Discord Server!
Not saying: Don't ask
Am saying: There are so many experienced armorers that have poured collective man-years into really good build threads, articles and tutorials filled with do's and don'ts and wish-I-had-knowns that you're doing yourself a disservice by not reading them. A casual afternoon of reading the tales of those that came before you would put you MONTHS further ahead, save you time, money, effort, wastage and exasperation. Not to mention after all those people's hard work making the articles it would be a shame for them to not get read.
Next build your skills. Don't use your helmet or real armor as test parts to learn on if you've never done this before, don't know sanding plastic printed parts etc. Maybe print 20 test XYZ cubes at like 60mm. Use those to learn good sanding, smoothing and painting techniques. If you can't make a flat cube look like metal then you know you aren't ready to tackle armor. Plus you have 6 sides per cube to test painting on and use as a visual record of "This is silver over gloss black" etc.
After the simple cubes move on to a "speed shape". These are commonly used to test paints on over various contours. This gives you a good model to practice sanding more complex shapes with curves and grooves on. Again, you're working up towards the complex shapes of helmets and armor. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826498
Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.
If you've never done an armor build before you might want your first armor to be one without the really tight tolerances of a Spartan or Ironman. I confess I made about 3 Spartan armors to get my first one right. It was very Goldilocks of "This is too big, this is too small, this is just right" with every part. If I had known then what I learned through the process I would have made a Mandalorian (least actual armor) then an ODST then Spartan and actually gotten 2-3 good wearable costumes instead of a lot of waste. I mean, if you're going to print 3 costumes either way, might well have 3 costumes- instead of 1 + a pile of wrong-sized prints, right?
Least tight of tolerance first, and work towards tightest tolerance.
So like:
- The Mandalorian
- Aliens Colonial Marine
- ODST
- Spartan
- Ironman
If you are new to 3d printing or considering buying your first 3d printer just so you can make an armor:
3d printers have come a long way since I started with them in 2009. But they still aren't fully plug-n-play like a department store inkjet: But some of the newest & smallest ones are getting there. There's a lot more to 3d printing than just hitting print: Like knowing your different materials and when to use them. Or knowing when more walls and less infill, or more infill and less walls is the right choice. You should expect there to be a learning curve and at $20/spool that curve comes with a cost. I'm just saying walk into 3d printing with your eyes open.
"What's your printer?" thread on the 405th forum:
What's Your Printer?
I wish I knew this about printers before buying discussion:
"I wish I knew" Tips When Starting to 3d Print
My favorite section of any YouTuber's channels is the recent post by Frankly Built who is well regarded in this genre - about taking some time to learn before doing:
Jumping right to armor is really not the best way to go when beginning 3d printing. You really want to work up to something this big and specialized. Work up to things so big that a 3% goof can mean added costs, joints that lock up and you can't bend your elbow etc. Little easy things first… Things with no supports to start. Move up to props like pistols. And keep moving upward over time.
• A few settings differences can be the difference between a part too weak to be used and printing your armor so heavy it's exhausting to wear. The difference between a $10 part and a $40 part adds up to a significant difference over an entire armor.
If it's your first printer taking a hybrid approach can actually save money. Get the small bed printer for home use and see if you even like doing this. Large 500mm-1000mm machines aren't cheap and take up space and fails are proportionately expensive. If you love doing it and can justify the big printer as your second or third machine, go for it. But if you want to make the smaller things at home and outsource the big stuff to a print farm like www.starbase3d.com (mine for transparency) the extra-large printers mean being able to have big armor pieces like legs/chest/back done in strong seamless single-prints instead of several pieces to be glued and blended into invisibility.
Attachments
billeybob250
New Member
How do you do this slicing where you can see into the helmet like that?
