help with resin/ helmet visor question

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meyersm4

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I have just completed Kirrou's HD ODST helmet (my first pep), and am about to resin it. I have watched many tutorials, but am unsure just how much to put on the outside with the first coat. Should it be a normal coat or a light coat?

My other concern is the visor. Since it is not a regular motorcycle visor-shaped area, what alternatives can I turn to? I do not have vac-forming available to me.

Also... how do I post pictures on this thread? I would love to show you guys what I have so far so I can gain some feedback.
 
I maybe able to help. I'm not sure what you mean by normal or light coat. When you use the resin you can not change the viscosity of it. Follow instructions and add the right amount of MKP. Apply one regular coat outside. Let it cured and add a coat inside. As for the visor, check my ODST thread below. You don't need a vac-forming machine.
 
I looked over your ODST thread (nice builds, btw) but I can't figure out what your son's visor was made of. It seemed to fit the angled shape of the helmet well enough, but how did you achieve that look?
 
You make it fit "perfectly" by making the helmet fit the visor instead of the other way around. Or at least that's one of many methods to do it:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33249-JFO
Satchmo uses the technique, you get the visor, cover it in painter's tape, attach it, and then bondo the helmet itself to fill in the gaps between it and the helmet. This makes it look tight and clean without having to stress the visor's shape too hard.

But it's a bit different with the ODST, since it's a two layer visor, needs some pretty crafty cutting..

Here's Hugh's tutorial on ODST visors:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30968-Tutorial-ODST-Visors-(and-other-useful-info)
 
I looked over your ODST thread (nice builds, btw) but I can't figure out what your son's visor was made of. It seemed to fit the angled shape of the helmet well enough, but how did you achieve that look?

I used regular toy packaging for the visor. I found that Barbie's clear packaging was among the thickest. Next I lightly spray paint the visor using Niteshades. Once dried, I just hot glue the visor in place. See this post.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...ted-(more-photos-Page-13)?p=549924#post549924

Here is the tutorial.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26508-Halo-3-ODST-Visors
 
You make it fit "perfectly" by making the helmet fit the visor instead of the other way around. Or at least that's one of many methods to do it:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33249-JFO
Satchmo uses the technique, you get the visor, cover it in painter's tape, attach it, and then bondo the helmet itself to fill in the gaps between it and the helmet. This makes it look tight and clean without having to stress the visor's shape too hard.

But it's a bit different with the ODST, since it's a two layer visor, needs some pretty crafty cutting..

Here's Hugh's tutorial on ODST visors:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30968-Tutorial-ODST-Visors-(and-other-useful-info)

Thanks for the explanation, I appreciate it. That method is well within my range, as I can probably pick up a roll of the plastic locally. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can find some VHT Nite-Shade, since I don't have any large automotive stores in the area?
 
Thanks for the explanation, I appreciate it. That method is well within my range, as I can probably pick up a roll of the plastic locally. Do you have any recommendations as to where I can find some VHT Nite-Shade, since I don't have any large automotive stores in the area?

I bought it from Amazon.
 
Meyersm4,

You can still pull a visor like that without vacuforming. It's called "drape molding." You can pep the visor and back it with Bondo until it is a rock solid blank at least an inch thick. Once you have sanded it perfectly smooth--and I do mean perfectly smooth, you can pull a heated sheet of Lexan over the blank. You would have to mount the sheet (larger than you need) into a wood frame with the screws going through several places per side to keep the sheet from pulling out of the frame while melted. Heat the sheet in gas grill with the frame horizontal and supported well above the oven rack. The plastic will warp, then draw up tight before sagging uniformly. When it does, grab the assembly (with your welding gloves on) and push the sheet down hard over the visor blank until it is stretched over every surface. Let it cool. As it is based on the pep that belongs to your scaled pep helmet, it should fit perfectly. Alternatively, you could build a female mold and let the melted sheet settle into the mold as you continue to heat it. The sheet has to be melted on a grill or in an oven for the high, even heat. Don't even consider heat guns or hair dryers. As an alternative to the Night Shades, if you need a different color or some reflectivity, check out my Make and Paint Your Own See Through Visor TUT that is stickied on the Creation Discussion page. PM me if you have more specific questions. Hope this helps.

Redshirt
 
as far as resining goes, i will stress as light a coat as possible!!!! you dont want it too thick, otherwise the larger pieces will sag, and globs of resin will form in the recesses. i never apply liberally when i resin the outside, i build up 2-3 layers as thin as i can make them to get a great strength without warping, the left over resin, i will pour on the inside of certain pieces like the chest or cod to give it added strength just to make sure no warping happens in the hardening process.

for nightshade, try your hardware store, and i cant believe you cant find any at your local auto store, autozone carries the stuff, that i know. look around, you might end up finding something you like even more!

and for images, you copy the image code and click the tree icon in your quick reply buttons, paste and add and your golden, like this

P5060195.jpg
[/IMG]
 
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