Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
I did replace the blade while cutting the sides because the previous blade exploded in my face, luckily I was not hit.
So hopefully now I will have some better cuts.
Jaku's Venator, Marine, and Misc builds
- Thread starter Lieutenant Jaku
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So hopefully now I will have some better cuts.
- Member DIN
- S128
In the little foam work I've done I noticed the blade stopped making smooth cuts after about 12". A little sharpening stone would be a fine investment.
I love the covenant sniping pad as a cat roost. However I'd stick to particle board and carpet. The reason is with animals you don't want to encourage them to do behavior you wouldn't like. They're not scratching up your finished foam, but you give them foam scratching pad you're basically telling them it's ok to claw up any foam they see.
I love the covenant sniping pad as a cat roost. However I'd stick to particle board and carpet. The reason is with animals you don't want to encourage them to do behavior you wouldn't like. They're not scratching up your finished foam, but you give them foam scratching pad you're basically telling them it's ok to claw up any foam they see.
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- Member DIN
- S068
Or look into a rotary tool with an 80 grit flap wheel. You can pick up a cheapo kit for $40 usually with x number of random discs and drums and if treated right the tool will last you a couple years. Mine lasted 3 years until I was dumb and dropped it off the workbench, then I bought a good one!
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
I guess you are right, so I need to think about what material to use.
I have one, but I can't get the bit out, I'll probably try to get it out again soon
- Member DIN
- S068
Time to get the vise grips out and tear the collet apart!
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
a little spritz of WD40 might help also.....with the vise grips.
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
Got my Dremel fixed. I have started sanding the corners of the chestplate.
Also officially started the cat scratcher project.
so far made with Pizza cardboard tray and foam mat ends (what else was I going to use them for). This will eventually be sandwiched between wood and become the bottom base.
Here's a look at the old cat scratcher...
I'm afraid I may need something stronger than just carpet PerniciousDuke 
Also, Happy PI Day!!! May many unhealthy but delicious circles be with you.
Also officially started the cat scratcher project.
so far made with Pizza cardboard tray and foam mat ends (what else was I going to use them for). This will eventually be sandwiched between wood and become the bottom base.
Here's a look at the old cat scratcher...
I'm afraid I may need something stronger than just carpet PerniciousDuke Also, Happy PI Day!!! May many unhealthy but delicious circles be with you.
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
unfortunately no update to give (it's not that i'm not making progress, it's just not very interesting).
I do however have a question, what type of knife sharpener should I buy?
also I doubt I will make anything new for a bit after the chest piece because my computers ethernet port broke
Edit: I actually do have an interesting update, I got myself a present
I do however have a question, what type of knife sharpener should I buy?
also I doubt I will make anything new for a bit after the chest piece because my computers ethernet port broke
Edit: I actually do have an interesting update, I got myself a present
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- Member DIN
- S068
Leiutenant Jaku that looks like a mighty fine present! Always remember the safety specs!
I use the one from my old knife block that doesn't match the new knife set
I use the one from my old knife block that doesn't match the new knife set
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
Would any of you guys happen to know if resin/Bondo method works on cardboard?(not cardstock but actual cardboard)
- Member DIN
- S111
Yes. I made a prop sword back around 2005 where I built up the body and shape with cardboard, and then brushed on fiberglass resin. The cardboard soaked up the resin and then hardened up. I then used Bondo on top of that to smooth it out and etch in details.
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
not much going on right now, I'm on break, but I want to show off what I've been working on for a bit, so here it is.
if you want any of the 3d models just tell me
more detail on the gun 3d model, more to come:
Ships, Ships, and more Ships! (and also some other stuff):
Pistol:
HP Probook (only a few details so far) I was bored, and this is the laptop I had w/ me:
Ship Bridge:
Game (most assets are for this) also don't mind the armor, it's temporary:
hopefully the game (beta) will be ready sometime around mid september, I'll be sure to send some free copies over if it is.
Edit: I will have more pictures of my armor once I get back home on sunday or monday
if you want any of the 3d models just tell me
more detail on the gun 3d model, more to come:
Ships, Ships, and more Ships! (and also some other stuff):
Pistol:
HP Probook (only a few details so far) I was bored, and this is the laptop I had w/ me:
Ship Bridge:
Game (most assets are for this) also don't mind the armor, it's temporary:
hopefully the game (beta) will be ready sometime around mid september, I'll be sure to send some free copies over if it is.
Edit: I will have more pictures of my armor once I get back home on sunday or monday
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
Repainted the armor, but still more filling that needs to be done.
Does the rough looking sanding meab I need higher grit Dremel bits?
Does the rough looking sanding meab I need higher grit Dremel bits?
- Member DIN
- S068
It's likely a mix of learning to feather touch, tool speed and bit selection. Faster isn't always better and it looks like you were using a 80 grit flapper wheel or sanding band (thanks PerniciousDuke for teaching me the proper terminology) that bit into the foam at some points. Higher grits do help but sometimes aren't necessary, the fuzzy look on the shoulder seam makes me think you didn't hit it with a heat gun to seal the foam and burn off crunchies.
Best advice I have, aluminum oxide grinding stone on medium speed to blend out seams. It's not as aggressive and with the right pressure won't leave rounded divets that show you're working with a rotary tool. You can also use sandpaper and a sanding block to cleanup as well. Just remember if you're sanding at all, heat seal at the end to help keep your finished painting surface even.
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Turbo nailed it. You really just want to slowly remove material with the Dremel. You can also use a Dremel to perfect angles on your foam pieces, and make dirty cuts a lot smoother.
Patience is the key here. Take your time!
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
What do I do if my pepekura designer has stopped working? It launches but I can't view the window.
Also what is a good peice to start with, as I need to get some more experience with foam
Also what is a good peice to start with, as I need to get some more experience with foam
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Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
You may have to delete your pep designer and download all over again. Save anything you can for later on, but the program itself may be compromised/corrupted.
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
does uninstalling it automatically remove my pep files or will they all be fine?
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
you can save you files in a separate folder...but yes they should be fine.
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