Jaku's Venator, Marine, and Misc builds

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The same can go for all forms of armor making... foam takes a while to learn to cut correctly. You have to be patient with pep or your armor will look warped and bumpy. 3D printing is useful but it can still cause problems. You need to understanf how to model and cut models. You have to glue the peices togeter cause you end up printing them seperatly. You also need to glue the parts together without creating really messed up seems. Then you have to sand it just as much as you would a pep file maybe more because of the print lines. And lastly.... what would you be more proud of? A pep/foam work that you put countless hours into making. Or a printed set that you spent 50 hours doing nothing but bolting and sanding together peices, that each can take up to 9 hours to print.

Each way has pros and cons... the biggest for me is feeling accomplished with the final product. While i have not finished my first peice yet... the bits i have finished i am proud of. Do what you wantbi honestly could care less, its your project i wont tell you what you should and what you shouldnt do

When I spend 50+ hours on a model design and then another dozen on assembly and finishing, that's where the pride comes in. My prints may be able to be completed while I'm sleeping or at work, but it's by no means the easy route to making a costume.

Source: Countless hours in Fusion 360 making cool things.
 
Everyone, please remember that at the end of the day the construction method a member uses to make their costume is their personal choice. Every method has its unique intricacies, it's own pros and it's own cons. No one method is truly subjectively "better" than another. It is so about finding what works best for you, which method you enjoy using and just clicks with you.

I encourage everyone to try as many methods as they can, but I would never discourage someone from trying or using one.

I would hope all our members here would do the same.
 
Like Cadet said, different methods get different results. I like the weight of my first pep armor. (a great way to fill gaps and cracks too is spot putty and a wet finger with latex caulk) The biggest thing with pep is clean scoring, clean folds and clean glue up. Start at the top and work your way down on helmets. Do small parts as sub assemblies to be incorporated in to larger parts. When glassing, light coats of resin and as much support as possible helps before moving into the heavy stuff. That initial shell has to be there before you add weight, otherwise you get bad warping. As far as warp and subtle asymmetry goes i think these quirks add to each spartans character. This process cannot be rushed for the cleanest results. My first suit over 700 hours.
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My Second suit was foam pep files and custom work. New process = New challenges. Learning to clean up a 3d Print, Learning to laminate foams, Score detail, Grind and carve and smoothing out those areas, coating and finish paint prep. A lot of differences. Second suit Not the comfortable weight i liked off my fiberglass suit but better mobility an the ease to put on singly.
Halo-4-Hazop-Spartan-A-113-Asgardianhammer-601632570

All in all you can achieve equally amazing results with time, patience, willingness to learn and most importantly willingness to begin a piece over, with many of the methods. I am always looking to learn something new from the members on this forum and other forums.
Halo 4 Hazop Spartan A-113 Asgardianhammer
3D Printing has its own unique set of challenges that take an enormous amount of time. The results can be amazing though!

All of these methods involve patience and diligence to achieve the best results possible. There is no one way to do something and any artist will tell you there are many ways to skin a cat and you have to choose which method best suits you personally. Give them all a try. You may surprise yourself with what you can accomplish!

Happy Building Spartans!
 
I agree 100% most people can do amazing things with pepakura, aslong as you take your time. I was just a little abrasive on the pepakura "Symmetry" topic.

I'm not against asymmetry, infact, I love assymetry, most of the iconic shapes today are assymetric work. Star wars is completely loaded with it. My favourite thus far is the ANH stormtrooper.

Also, I've just discovered a new love for primer filler and wet sanding today :D

So people can definately have a different taste in how they build.
 
1511113865063-1194321858.jpg Parts arrived today unfortunately the visor is rainbow rather than gold as the listing pictured. Got lights for helmet but I have to pick up a new soldering iron or fix my old one. Hoping in the next few days I will get back on track.

Any suggestions on what I should do with the rainbow visor?
 
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Hi Leiutenant Jaku and great job so far!

For visors I would recommend laying masking tape on both the front and back to cover the entire piece to reduce any chance of scratching. This will also let you marker any lines you may want to cut. Then to cut I would use a dremmel with a double reinforced cut-off wheel. For fitting use prong T-nuts, that seems to be the best route. I'll try to find a video for you.

You may want to check out these tutorials I've compiled for other parts of the build process.

*edit: Yeah, the tutorial for cutting and fitting the visor was already in the index under the visor section. Here is a quick link.
 
Hi Leiutenant Jaku and great job so far!

For visors I would recommend laying masking tape on both the front and back to cover the entire piece to reduce any chance of scratching. This will also let you marker any lines you may want to cut. Then to cut I would use a dremmel with a double reinforced cut-off wheel. For fitting use prong T-nuts, that seems to be the best route. I'll try to find a video for you.

You may want to check out these tutorials I've compiled for other parts of the build process.

*edit: Yeah, the tutorial for cutting and fitting the visor was already in the index under the visor section. Here is a quick link.
thanks i'll be sure to use some of these, but my dremel has a bit stuck in it and before that the previous blade was stuck in it, is this a common problem with an easy fix, or should I use a different tool?
 
Never tighten the dremel tool bit if the bit's shank is all the way down in the dremel. You want some of the shank exposed because the way you get the tool out is by loosening the collet and then push the tool deeper into the grinder. This will "knock" it free.

Hard to explain in words, let me know if you'd like me to reword. I bet there's a video out there.
 
Never tighten the dremel tool bit if the bit's shank is all the way down in the dremel. You want some of the shank exposed because the way you get the tool out is by loosening the collet and then push the tool deeper into the grinder. This will "knock" it free.

Hard to explain in words, let me know if you'd like me to reword. I bet there's a video out there.
thanks I will try this :)
 
unfortunately, it looks like I have to take a step backward. fiberglass has started falling out of my helmet. and it is too cold to redo it right now
in the meantime, I am working on a custom pistol/sniper based on a mix of things. I will upload the EVA template soon
 
Hey Leiutenant Jaku - It's kind of hard to tell what these photos are of. If you can next time, place the items near a lamp or bright light. The light will help the camera to use the auto focus. If you still have a hard time focusing, it may be the item is too close to focus on. Keep up the good work though!
 
Hey Leiutenant Jaku - It's kind of hard to tell what these photos are of. If you can next time, place the items near a lamp or bright light. The light will help the camera to use the auto focus. If you still have a hard time focusing, it may be the item is too close to focus on. Keep up the good work though!
Thanks I will try to keep this in mind as I continue
 
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