Plasti-Dip spray... outside hardener?

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Kissker

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I was just brainstorming while working on my COG armor (40 of 47 pages complete)


Has anyone used plasti-dip spray to 'harden' the outside of pep projects?

I didn't get my order for plastic (smooth 320) in on time to get it - so I'd have to wait like a week+ for shipping (unless I can find a local supplier) and really didn't want to have to resin the outside of this giant thing, so I was trying to think of alternatives to 'harden' the outside enough to allow internal applications.
 
I know that you can pick up a plasti-dip spray at local hardware stores such as home depot or lowes (unless you live outside the u.s.) but I'm not sure if it would harden anything substantially. It's mainly a rubberized coating so I'm sure on paper, which isn't very rigid to begin with, it would still be rather flexible. Plasti-dip is a great "primer" for things like foam projects but i would think fiberglass resin is still the most reliable way to strengthen pep work. For a piece that large you wouldn't use up too much resin but i'm assuming its the having to do it by hand that is discouraging you. People on the forums and myself have always been on the lookout for a reliable spray alternative to resin but haven't had much success. The best thing to do is just try to find some plasti-dip spray at a local store and try it out on some scrap, I'm sure there are people who would love to know how it turns out.
 
Just thought of something that could work. If you are able to pour the plasti-dip, you could make for example, a pistol grip. You'd have a mold of the grip in it's entirety, take the grip portion the pistol, place it in the mold so that there is space between the inside of the mold and the pistol portion, then pour the plasti-dip into the mold and let it cure. Remove the pistol w/ grip and there you go.

I wouldn't mind trying that...
 
Just thought of something that could work. If you are able to pour the plasti-dip, you could make for example, a pistol grip. You'd have a mold of the grip in it's entirety, take the grip portion the pistol, place it in the mold so that there is space between the inside of the mold and the pistol portion, then pour the plasti-dip into the mold and let it cure. Remove the pistol w/ grip and there you go.

I wouldn't mind trying that...
Hmm, not a bad idea. There IS a type of plasti-dip that comes in a paint-type can that would easily be poured.


To OP: I highly doubt that plasti-dip would do any noticeable "hardening" of the pep piece. As Skylow said, it's more of a primer coat for semi-rigid materials so paint can more easily adhere and is less prone to cracking. If you were to coat a pep piece, I imagine the result would be a floppy mess.
 
I've heard that spray on acrylic sealer/laquer yields semi-acceptable results, although still not as stiff as when resined. Never tried it myself, but it is another option to consider.
 
I just hate resin.

It's sticky sloppy and smelly, to boot it's rather heavy. I am still very worried about my COG armor flattening/deforming with the weight. Maybe I need to NOT score so many lines on the paper, or use foamboard instead of just paper.. but still... not liking the fact I've thrown so many hours into this and it comes down to 'risking' hardening methods, vs "yes, it will harden properly"

Bad mojo from last years stuff I guess.
 
I just hate resin.

It's sticky sloppy and smelly, to boot it's rather heavy. I am still very worried about my COG armor flattening/deforming with the weight. Maybe I need to NOT score so many lines on the paper, or use foamboard instead of just paper.. but still... not liking the fact I've thrown so many hours into this and it comes down to 'risking' hardening methods, vs "yes, it will harden properly"

Bad mojo from last years stuff I guess.

Are you just using fiberglass resin from home depot? I'd invest into using some Freeman or smooth-on resins if your not wanting it. Smooth-on makes Shell shock brushable resin meant mostly for re-inforcement purposes. Adam's AR's had a layer of this in his rifles and I know it's very durable
 
its not really the durability that is a concern - I go in and use matt/cloth with more resin or other methods inside to make it stronger - it's getting it to lay on it's side without folding in on itself - so I CAN get to the inside - hince an external application of hardener.

The weight is a concern. Fiberglass resin tends to be thick- sticky- and heavy per volume. I was hoping to find a 'spray on' thin coat system - even if it took a few light coats to build up enough to move it and do the inside - to spray on or otherwise apply and make it tough enough for movement/internal reinforcement.

Anyone that has seen the Fenix COG armor file can easily see it's a wide- bulky and large hollow bit and I fear that the thick sticky syrup resin will cause it to collapse in - even on a torso replica I made.
 
Using "Just Paper" might be the issue, are you not using Cardstock for it? I've had very few issues with cardstock warping with resin applied to it.

What he said. I once made a pepakura Darktrooper chest piece which I reinforced with fiberglass. I always use cardstock, and the main chest area was litterally an un-supported section of paper all the way up to the shoulders. Even then, I didn't have anything fold in or wrinkle.
 
I agree that using just paper will not be rigid enough compared to cardstock. You can get a 200 page pack at Staples for almost the same price as the 150 page you can get at Walmart. But an alternative to fiberglass resin is Styrospray 1000. It is mainly used in commercial and cinematic prop applications where it sprayed on to a styrofoam sculpture to give it a smooth but hard outer shell. You will need to brush on a couple coats to achieve the level of hardness comparable to fiberglass matting. It is sandable, can be machined, and painted.
 
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