Reinforcing 3D print seams

[Clarkusmc]

I've worn my Master Chief on three troops now of 4+ hours a piece, and I've started to see that where I had attached two pieces together on the thigh pieces are starting to show fatigue at the seams. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience reinforcing these seams. I was thinking about doing an epoxy or resin and fiberglass on the inside to add strength at these points.

 

[MrJamin]

I am personally a fan of doing both of these

- Plastic weld the pieces together (embeds pieces of metal into the prints across the seams) - Link
- Resin + Fiberglass the inside

I only did the resin and fiberglass on my MKVI suit and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

I plan to do both, and an external coat of resin, just like TurboCharizard does on his suits when I working on my MKVII suit.

 

[Clarkusmc]

Because my suit is already painted and finished I'm avoiding anything on the front side but might on some future builds. I'm leaning towards the resin and fiberglass, just never done anything like that before

 

[JTF4]

My favorite is to use JB weld plastic bonder over all the seams. I haven't done the fiberglass and resin on armor yet, but I have used it and it's not too bad to use. You just need to make sure you use the right safety equipment for it since the chemicals and materials are quite nasty.

 

[Clarkusmc]

Hmmm I do most everything in the basement and the fumes would seep into the house, so might look at the jb weld option first

 

[MrJamin]

Hmmm I do most everything in the basement and the fumes would seep into the house, so might look at the jb weld option first

If you have a window or something in the basement you could always rig up a small spray booth or something like that to get stuff to vent outside.

Not sure exactly how effective they are, but cardboard, duct tape, and a box fan have worked well for me in the past.

 

[Rock Lobbster]

I can say with confidence that the hot staple & fiberglass method works incredibly well. My suit has survived flying all around the US and Canada thanks to that reinforcement

 

[Bloxxer]

I can say with confidence that the hot staple & fiberglass method works incredibly well. My suit has survived flying all around the US and Canada thanks to that reinforcement

I don't have access to fiberglass at the moment, but I did just pick up a plastic welding gun. Do you think just the welder will be strong enough, or should I consider something else like the JB Weld as well? So far I've had good luck with just the glue that holds the part together (until I dropped the chest lol), but I am looking at future-proofing my next suit, since I plan to fly it with me to TORG.

 

[Rock Lobbster]

I don't have access to fiberglass at the moment, but I did just pick up a plastic welding gun. Do you think just the welder will be strong enough, or should I consider something else like the JB Weld as well? So far I've had good luck with just the glue that holds the part together (until I dropped the chest lol), but I am looking at future-proofing my next suit, since I plan to fly it with me to TORG.

I'm not sure how well the JB weld works on larger seams as I've only used it for small cracks, magnets and other repairs. The plastic welder will definitely help with durability though!

Fiberglass is messy but I can't see myself making things without it at this point. My ODST helmet flew to 3 events and it ended up having cracks around the sides/bottom after rough handling by airport staff. My mk7 was glassed and has also flown to 3 events (about to be 4) and is a-ok.

 

[pinoyfiasco]

I don't have access to fiberglass at the moment, but I did just pick up a plastic welding gun. Do you think just the welder will be strong enough, or should I consider something else like the JB Weld as well? So far I've had good luck with just the glue that holds the part together (until I dropped the chest lol), but I am looking at future-proofing my next suit, since I plan to fly it with me to TORG.

The welding staples work fine, but the staples themselves only melt into the plastic - they don't necessarily bond to it. You can still pop that seam with enough force (I've actually done this on purpose). You can even pull the staples right out (I like to give them a slight turn to "hook" the plastic and prevent this from happening).

I've had the best results by applying JB Weld to the seam then reinforcing it with welding staples once it sets.

To use a common dad parlance: That ain't goin' anywhere.

 

[Clarkusmc]

ordered some resin and fiberglass off amazon, should be getting here in the next week and I'll start on the reinforcement. Thanks y'all for your help!

 

[PerniciousDuke]

ordered some resin and fiberglass off amazon, should be getting here in the next week and I'll start on the reinforcement. Thanks y'all for your help!

Don't do it in the basement! It smells awful and the smell will linger for months. If possible do it outside. Yard, balcony, patio. Even if you let it cure outside the pieces will be stinky for 2 to 10 weeks after.

I try to do mine outside or in a garage with the big door open and I let it cure outside (under cover) for 1 to 2 days. The warmer the day the better.

Good luck!

 

[Rock Lobbster]

The welding staples work fine, but the staples themselves only melt into the plastic - they don't necessarily bond to it. You can still pop that seam with enough force (I've actually done this on purpose). You can even pull the staples right out (I like to give them a slight turn to "hook" the plastic and prevent this from happening).

I've had the best results by applying JB Weld to the seam then reinforcing it with welding staples once it sets.

To use a common dad parlance: That ain't goin' anywhere.

I do commonly backfill the staples with 2 part epoxy or resin when I fiberglass, really ups the durability.

 

[pinoyfiasco]

I do commonly backfill the staples with 2 part epoxy or resin when I fiberglass, really ups the durability.

That works pretty well. For 3D prints I grab scrap support material and use the welder's superhot spatula (I don't know what it's actually called) to work it over the staples and into any gaps.

 

[rickrtickr]

Don't do it in the basement! It smells awful and the smell will linger for months. If possible do it outside. Yard, balcony, patio. Even if you let it cure outside the pieces will be stinky for 2 to 10 weeks after.

I try to do mine outside or in a garage with the big door open and I let it cure outside (under cover) for 1 to 2 days. The warmer the day the better.

Good luck!

Fiberglass resin fumes are toxic. and you should not try to cure resin in an unventilated room.

Seriously it is not good for you. do not do this inside your home (with the exception to an attached garage with the door open.)