solid helmet stl

HeWhoFlows

New Member
Hi everyone! I'm new to 3d modeling software and after fiddling for awhile got a helmet sized to me using armor smith. my problem now is when i throw it into the bambulab software it shows the model as 1 solid piece filled throughout and im unsure how to go about fixing this. i tried removing the neck and visor parts but nothing changes. any tips you have are greatly appreciated!

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I've moved your thread to the appropriate area where you will be more likely to get the help you need with this issue.
 
Ummm... Did you maybe bring a .PDO (Pepakura for doing foam templates) into armorsmith and think that was going to become a STL for 3d printing? It shouldn't look like that in Armorsmith. As you can see here it shouldn't have that ... line drawing appearance like you have.

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An excerpt from my longer "New armorer FAQ answer", but basically suggesting helmet be last, not first on your new skills building adventure.

Next build your skills. Don't use your helmet or real armor as test parts to learn on if you've never done this before, don't know sanding plastic printed parts etc. Maybe print 20 test XYZ cubes at like 60mm. Use those to learn good sanding, smoothing and painting techniques. If you can't make a flat cube look like metal then you know you aren't ready to tackle armor. Plus you have 6 sides per cube to test painting on and use as a visual record of "This is silver over gloss black" etc.

After the simple cubes move on to a "speed shape". These are commonly used to test paints on over various contours. This gives you a good model to practice sanding more complex shapes with curves and grooves on. Again, you're working up towards the complex shapes of helmets and armor. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826498
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Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.
 
There is an ODST helmet available in .STL format already in our Free 3D Model Index if that might save you this hassle:

 

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