Helmet Headphone Electronics Tutorial - Hearing Enhancement

[CrimsonViper97]

This sounds like something I need in my helmet, good thing I know a guy CrimsonViper97

I don't know man, he'll probably just forget it on his bench a bunch of times...

 

[Spidermonkey60]

I don't know man, he'll probably just forget it on his bench a bunch of times...

C2E2 2027 isnt that far off

 

[CrimsonViper97]

it is a AAA battery holder, apologies for not catching that typo!

AAs would also work but yes that was a typo.
For those of you more technically inclined, it's possible to power these off of a USB battery pack with the addition of a 3V regulator. That's what I did for my MKVII helmet. I did run into a buzzing problem if I had it on the same battery as my fans though. Maybe some decoupling capacitors would help?

 

[N8TEBB]

If the volume adjustment easy enough to turn while the helmet is on? or do you have to take the helmet off to adjust volume?

 

[CrimsonViper97]

It all depends on where you mount it tbh.

 

[SSGLordBert]

I plan on starting this once my mk7 v2 helmet is done for my cyber showdown set. I’m retiring the v1 since it’s signed by steve downes now.

 

[C231996]

This is exactly what I need! I’ll definitely be implementing this in my helmet!

 

[KGSupreme]

Gonna do my best to use this. Awesome

 

[Twisting Neather]

Currently working on an ODST Helmet with this addition. I'll hopefully report back soon that it all went well

 

[N8TEBB]

Thank for the great tutorial! You saw it working on my helmet in cleveland this past weekend. I'm so happy I can hear better!

A note for people following this tutorial: the company that makes the shooting headphones seems to have changed suppliers for their microphones. Instead of being pea-sized, they are now slightly smaller than a dime in diameter. They still work great, but you may have to be clever about how you mount them. There's two little detail bits on each side of the mk 7, that's where I mounted my mics.

 

[SoleofDeath]

Thanks for the Helmet/electrical NobleofDeath16 and CrimsonViper97 , I'll print a box for the pcb, and move the ears with padding to fit my face

 

[TC Wolfie]

this is awsome im going to be using on all of my helmets from now on

 

[Chiefmartin650]

Could i switch the power supply to a USB port to plug in a power bank?

 

[N8TEBB]

Could i switch the power supply to a USB port to plug in a power bank?

Yes you can! That's what I did for my helmet. I used a 5V battery bank to power fans, a mic, and this hearing system. here's a link to my circuit diagram:

N8TEBB's Mk 7 Build!!!!!

DEPLOYMENT This is the most accurate suit I've made, so I decided I wanted to try my hand at going for that tier 3. I had to make some modifications first though. First, I have a camera that sits in the middle of the chest piece. This had to be covered up and replaced with the proper details. I...

www.405th.com

 

[Rock Lobbster]

For those with a melon of a head (like myself) and want to put the system in their helmet, just follow the same tutorial and instead of gluing the foam to the plastic core just glue it directly to the padding. This saved my head from a lot of hurt down the line and still works great.

Also did the same as N8T and used THIS 5V to 3V to regulate it from 5v power bank. Works like a charm just use a multimeter to adjust the voltage!

 

[N8TEBB]

Also did the same as N8T and used THIS 5V to 3V to regulate it from 5v power bank. Works like a charm just use a multimeter to adjust the voltage!

I was chatting with MicaHusky about this and they linked me these regulators which are much smaller and cheaper as they don't account for a huge range of voltage (4.5-20V input as opposed to 1.25-35). They have a few fixed voltage terminals, but you can also use a built in potentiometer to adjust to a fine voltage like with those larger ones. I don't think I'll go through the trouble of switching mine out, as it really doesn't take up much space at all, but for future reference I'll be using the cheaper ones for small step downs like this.

 

[Rock Lobbster]

I was chatting with MicaHusky about this and they linked me these regulators which are much smaller and cheaper as they don't account for a huge range of voltage (4.5-20V input as opposed to 1.25-35). They have a few fixed voltage terminals, but you can also use a built in potentiometer to adjust to a fine voltage like with those larger ones. I don't think I'll go through the trouble of switching mine out, as it really doesn't take up much space at all, but for future reference I'll be using the cheaper ones for small step downs like this.

oh those are much smaller, will definitely give those a shot next time!

 

[MrJamin]

I was chatting with MicaHusky about this and they linked me these regulators which are much smaller and cheaper as they don't account for a huge range of voltage (4.5-20V input as opposed to 1.25-35). They have a few fixed voltage terminals, but you can also use a built in potentiometer to adjust to a fine voltage like with those larger ones. I don't think I'll go through the trouble of switching mine out, as it really doesn't take up much space at all, but for future reference I'll be using the cheaper ones for small step downs like this.

I think these are the same things just not Canadian Amazon Link

Link

Edit: Fixed the link

 

[Rock Lobbster]

I think these are the same things just not Canadian Amazon Link

Link

still Canadian for me, here's a US one

Link

 

[VerdantCos]

Step 2: Cleaning up the PCB
Remove the hot glue covering the solder connections on the PCB. While pulling gently on the cabling, heat the solder joints one-by-one with a tinned soldering iron until they pull loose. Remove the speakers from their plastic holders. Desolder the speakers and the microphones loose from their wiring.
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You should now have the following components: PCB, battery holder, 3.5mm jack, 2 microphones, and two speakers. Using a soldering iron and solder sucker (and soldering wick or whatever desoldering tools you prefer, clear out the holes in the PCB where the wiring was attached. This will allow you to pass the wire through before soldering, giving you a sturdier connection than the factory wiring.
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Step 3: Preparing the microphones and Speakers

Now that we have the PCB cleaned up we’re going to estimate the length of our wiring. The first thing we’re going to do is decide on a location for our microphones. You want one on either side of the helmet in a location where it won’t be too obvious. On my MK VII (produced by EVAKura if you are looking to source the same helmet), I chose a spot right behind the visor where the helmet was going to be painted black. Take into consideration that you will need to access this location from inside the helmet to insert the microphone. Carefully drill a hole matching the diameter of the microphone.
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Next, decide where you would like to mount the PCB. From this location, unroll some wire and run it to one of your mic locations, leaving a little extra, and cut. Measure some wire of a different color to the same length and cut. We used red for positive and black for negative, but the idea here is to differentiate positive and negative, so any two colors will do. For a clean look, chuck these wires into a drill and twist them together. If you do so, leave some additional length as the wires will shorten as they twist together.
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On the back of one electret microphone, solder your negative wire to the pad with traces running to the outer ring and your positive wire to the semicircular pad beside it.
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Repeat this process for the second microphone.

In the same manner as the microphones, cut one set of wire for each speaker. It doesn’t matter which pads you use for positive and negative, so long as you are consistent from speaker to speaker. Otherwise, they will be out of phase (it’ll sound weird, trust me).
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Cont.

I am so unbelievably glad that I found this thread, thanks a ton for the tutorial!