3D Printable Helmet and Armor Files

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Kusak3 said:
Yup same machine. Not a bad machined as long as you remember to promptly put the mosfet upgrade in for your hot bed. I havent done a full up leveling on mine in months. when I start a print I keep an eye on it sometimes I have to do a bit of on the fly tweaking to get a good extrusion but I have printed so much that I recognize when things are right at a glance.

Mine has been so heavily modified it isnt exactly stock anymore. All metal hot end from micro swiss. all metal feed assembly from micro swiss. heated glass bed instead of build tack. Also the original board has long since burned out because I didnt do the mosfet update so I am actually running ramps on mine. Also got a better quality power supply. Added all of the structural upgrades to make the frame more rigid. so on so forth. Ohhh and slicing software is simplify 3d which makes a world of difference over cura. Simplify has the optimal printer sets for the monoprice in their inventory.

Every printer has its hiccups when you come down to it. I run two different printers I have the monoprice/wanhaoo v2 And I also have a hictop d11. Both are basically pure up prussia knock off's The auto level on the hictop has terrible reviews needing to be re calibrated itself about every couple of prints. So I didnt even add that upgrade to mine and stayed with the try and true self level. 3D printing has come a long way but it is still very much a tinkers art. you are going to spend a lot of time fussing with your printers if you are actually going to use them. I myself actually keep a drawer of basic spare parts for both of mine. Those parts are all the pieces to rebuild the hot end overall. As well as a handfull of spare extruder gears.

Both of my printers have long since had there hot ends replaced due to usage. And hot ends fail. In particular the nozzle and feed tube that connects to it. If your leveling is wrong the rubbing of the nozzle against the build plate will damage the nozzle over time. Which affects print quality and eventually cause it to fail. Eventually the teflon tube in most feed tubes will break down and then the feed tuble will fail. So in my perspective I run a nozzle and feed tube till they start to show issues and or jam up and then I spend the hour to just simply replace them both. They are inexpensive parts and its my time is precious much easier to switch them out then to spend hours fussing with them and or loosing prints due to feed issues.
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I buy four packs of brass nozzles and have a length of PFTE tubing for the same reason. Once extrusion gets sloppy and stringy its easier to rip out the nozzle and attempt to clean it than to play the game of "how long is it until this clogs"
 
mblackwell1002 said:
Nice!!! It's also the Recruit armor set as well! ;)
I love the recruit, that's the only reason I know.

Here's a thing!
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=4C125B3612E3CD65&resid=4C125B3612E3CD65!1449&authkey=AN1Rj2_d82YlSHw
View attachment 252050
I'll just add any 3D printable armor to this thread if you don't mind...keeps things tidy.
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The file looks great printing it in a whole peice right now update in seven days lol. Did you model this? If so I will pay you to finish the whole wetworks set.
 
mouthfullocrabs said:
The file looks great printing it in a whole peice right now update in seven days lol. Did you model this? If so I will pay you to finish the whole wetworks set.
Click to expand...
THe wetwork helmet was cleaned up and made printable by mblackwell1002. He did a great job on it. I’m looking to print this helmet in he near future as well. I have to get my hands on my new printer first tho. Look forward to seeing your print!!
 
I have found the recruit helmet & have begun my training in Meshmixer/blender from Pete.
 
LawEnforcer98 said:
whats the best plastic material to print a marine helmet? It needs to be durable, but safe.
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I’m not sure what you mean by safe? Plastic that’s safe to print or safe for protection? Any 3d printed helmet should only be used for costuming. They are not strong enough or designed to be used as protection. As for safe plastics, the least harmful for you I believe is PLA like tvanhelene mentioned. But all 3d printers release ultra fine particulates no matter the plastics. My wife has made sure I’m fully aware of this and does not want a 3d printer in the house.
 
SI3RRA 117 said:
I’m not sure what you mean by safe? Plastic that’s safe to print or safe for protection? Any 3d printed helmet should only be used for costuming. They are not strong enough or designed to be used as protection. As for safe plastics, the least harmful for you I believe is PLA like tvanhelene mentioned. But all 3d printers release ultra fine particulates no matter the plastics. My wife has made sure I’m fully aware of this and does not want a 3d printer in the house.
Click to expand...
That's why I keep mine away from living space...in a printing enclosure...inside a van...down by the river.

400.gif
 
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