ODST Langford
New Member
Looks awesome trooper! keep up the good work!
3D printed ODST armor [picture heavy] (All files made available)
- Thread starter RedGhost
- Start date
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- 3d printing costume helmet odst
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RedGhost
Active Member
Woah, it's been a while, huh? How do I explain.. Well, with the deadline closing in, I had to take all the time I could to finish my costume in time. Sadly, that left me with no time to update the 405th. After that, I just forgot about it.. Sorry! However, the good news is that my suit got finished in time! Woohoo! Some of you might've already seen the finished product on reddit a while back. (8 months?! Woah, I'm sorry people..) but for those who haven't:
I had a great time at the Facts convention. I even went on the photo with Master Chief
.
So, what is there to tell.. Oh yeah, A lot of stuff happened!
The visor
The visor was literally the hardest part of them all. I couldn't order a new one in time and the bought visor was inrepairable. I tried making a new one out of plexiglass but I wasted multiple sheets on that. PETG/etc/etc sheets to vacform with where no-where to be found, sadly. Eventually I ended up using the stuff you use to laminate paper. I actually laminated a transparent piece of photo paper to make it quite strong but bendable. It was easy to make the visor out of that, afterwards. The result wasn't pretty, but the dark colour hides the imperfections. The tint was achieved by a light mist of black metallic spray paint, the same stuff I used on my armor plates. Here's how it looks at a close up:
The inside of the helmet is quite simple:
On the left side there's a buck/boost converter with a switch just poking out of the bottom of the helmet (not pictured here). On the right side there's a USB power bank connected to it. The power bank's 5V is then converted to 12V where it turns on the (poorly placed) fan. This keeps my head somewhat cool and for some reason prevented all fogging. Not complaining there To charge, simply charge the power bank like you'd normally.
Weathering
For weathering I just used a brush and prayed some silver spray paint on it. After brushing it almost dry on card board, lightly brush over parts to give it a scratched look. I'm not happy with how the weathering turned out, and I might redo the paint job for this year's convention
The torso
The ODST's have a large block of armor right around the torso and the back. I tried printing this too, and I wasted (I think) 5 kg of filament on it. This was the last thing I printed, mind you. After printing I realized it was wayyy to big, like unwearably big. It's strange since I used the default scaling that the creator had for the torso but oh well. I'm also putting that file up here, so you can print it if you want.
Even tho it was too big for me, I still tried to make it work. After smoothing it out and painting it with another 5 cans of spray paint, I.. I dropped it whilst trying to put it on and it broke a piece off. Since the deadline was literally right around the corner I gave up on it. 5KG of wasted plastic still hurts.
Here are some pictures. Rest in piece(s), torso armor thingy...
I still have them, so I might renovate them for the next convention. The broken off piece is right at the ribs, connecting the two halves, so it isn't pictured here. The lost paint is actually from the straps which ran in the grooves tearing up the wood filler after I removed them so I could re-use the straps on the costume. Talking about straps, that brings me to the next part...
Strapping
Strapping was easy, but there's a LOT of room for improvement on how I did it.
The rib plates, crotch plate, belt buckle, and ass plate are all connected to each other and clip together as a belt under the belt plate. Under the hip plate there are more buckles that connect to the hip plates. The shins are free floating, and the knee pads too (they just strap to behind my knee). Apart from the fact that it's hard to connect the hips to the hip plates, it's a good system and didn't fail me a lot. During the convention only one hip plate came loose by one of the two attachment points. Simply re-gluing it fixed that.
The upper torso is where there's room for improvement. I made the breast plate, mid-ab plate and the side ab plates into a kind of hanger-style system. The rib plates connect to the side ab plate and form a second belt. Here's a picture:
This part worked well enough. The backs are rough because of support material, but no-one can see the backs when you wear it, so don't worry. The buckle for this belt is on the right side ab plate.
From this second belt, two braces ran over the shoulder to the chest piece (to the two buckles shown). This kept it all from sliding down and kept the chest piece upright. This was a poor decision however, since the braces pulled the second belt up and quite frankly, it looked dump.
From the braces (at right about the shoulder), two more straps ran with buckles that connected to the shoulders. At the bottom plate of the shoulder armor, there was an elastic strap that simply ran around my arm. This worked surprisingly well, even through it was a bit fragile. Sometimes the straps would slide down the braces and I had to get my buddy to put them back, so that sucked. But in the end, it worked out.
That's about it I believe. Now to answer some questions
I also think the game version is slightly cooler.
Spot putty is indeed a good idea, but it was quite expensive where I live. Maybe, now that I got a better pay check, I might use spot putty on some refurbishments and remakes.
Weapons
As of a last treat, I also printed the silenced SMG from ODST It isn't smoothed or painted yet, but I think it looks great so far.
The trigger moves, the magazine is detachable by magnets, and the grip is also movable. I love this model This one isn't mine at all.
Files
I got a lot of requests and PM's for the remaining files. Sorry for my absence! I'll upload the files asap and update the first post. I look forward to seeing what you guys print with them. Please send me a pm with your works!
I had a great time at the Facts convention. I even went on the photo with Master Chief
. So, what is there to tell.. Oh yeah, A lot of stuff happened!
The visor
The visor was literally the hardest part of them all. I couldn't order a new one in time and the bought visor was inrepairable. I tried making a new one out of plexiglass but I wasted multiple sheets on that. PETG/etc/etc sheets to vacform with where no-where to be found, sadly. Eventually I ended up using the stuff you use to laminate paper. I actually laminated a transparent piece of photo paper to make it quite strong but bendable. It was easy to make the visor out of that, afterwards. The result wasn't pretty, but the dark colour hides the imperfections. The tint was achieved by a light mist of black metallic spray paint, the same stuff I used on my armor plates. Here's how it looks at a close up:
The inside of the helmet is quite simple:
On the left side there's a buck/boost converter with a switch just poking out of the bottom of the helmet (not pictured here). On the right side there's a USB power bank connected to it. The power bank's 5V is then converted to 12V where it turns on the (poorly placed) fan. This keeps my head somewhat cool and for some reason prevented all fogging. Not complaining there
To charge, simply charge the power bank like you'd normally.Weathering
For weathering I just used a brush and prayed some silver spray paint on it. After brushing it almost dry on card board, lightly brush over parts to give it a scratched look. I'm not happy with how the weathering turned out, and I might redo the paint job for this year's convention
The torso
The ODST's have a large block of armor right around the torso and the back. I tried printing this too, and I wasted (I think) 5 kg of filament on it. This was the last thing I printed, mind you. After printing I realized it was wayyy to big, like unwearably big. It's strange since I used the default scaling that the creator had for the torso but oh well. I'm also putting that file up here, so you can print it if you want.
Even tho it was too big for me, I still tried to make it work. After smoothing it out and painting it with another 5 cans of spray paint, I.. I dropped it whilst trying to put it on and it broke a piece off. Since the deadline was literally right around the corner I gave up on it. 5KG of wasted plastic still hurts.
Here are some pictures. Rest in piece(s), torso armor thingy...
I still have them, so I might renovate them for the next convention. The broken off piece is right at the ribs, connecting the two halves, so it isn't pictured here. The lost paint is actually from the straps which ran in the grooves tearing up the wood filler after I removed them so I could re-use the straps on the costume. Talking about straps, that brings me to the next part...
Strapping
Strapping was easy, but there's a LOT of room for improvement on how I did it.
The rib plates, crotch plate, belt buckle, and ass plate are all connected to each other and clip together as a belt under the belt plate. Under the hip plate there are more buckles that connect to the hip plates. The shins are free floating, and the knee pads too (they just strap to behind my knee). Apart from the fact that it's hard to connect the hips to the hip plates, it's a good system and didn't fail me a lot. During the convention only one hip plate came loose by one of the two attachment points. Simply re-gluing it fixed that.
The upper torso is where there's room for improvement. I made the breast plate, mid-ab plate and the side ab plates into a kind of hanger-style system. The rib plates connect to the side ab plate and form a second belt. Here's a picture:
This part worked well enough. The backs are rough because of support material, but no-one can see the backs when you wear it, so don't worry. The buckle for this belt is on the right side ab plate.
From this second belt, two braces ran over the shoulder to the chest piece (to the two buckles shown). This kept it all from sliding down and kept the chest piece upright. This was a poor decision however, since the braces pulled the second belt up and quite frankly, it looked dump.
From the braces (at right about the shoulder), two more straps ran with buckles that connected to the shoulders. At the bottom plate of the shoulder armor, there was an elastic strap that simply ran around my arm. This worked surprisingly well, even through it was a bit fragile. Sometimes the straps would slide down the braces and I had to get my buddy to put them back, so that sucked. But in the end, it worked out.
That's about it I believe. Now to answer some questions
Yeah, you're right. It simply was poor quality. I didn't contact the seller because I already asked for a quicker delivery (deadline was approaching) so I felt like it was rude. Worst 50 bucks I spent tho. Oh well..
Thank you!!!
I'm 1.85 meters. Almost all armor is scaled for my height, with exception for the entire legs and the torso.
Not available without extremely large shipping costs where I live. I scouted almost every shop.
You're right! The life action trailer uses slightly different armor than the game. I decided to use the game's version because those files were more readily available and I loved playing ODST, not watching itThat is looking awesome
Looking at some game screenshots as well as the Weta live action adaptation, I actually think the lower leg armour is 2 pieces, as there are some clips and straps. I just can't clearly see or identify where the 2 pieces start and end. Certainly something I'll try to investigate before I begin my build
I have also found "spot putty" very effective in helping me to smooth out things. Easily sandable and smooth too.
Hope you found a good visor solution in time!
I also think the game version is slightly cooler.Spot putty is indeed a good idea, but it was quite expensive where I live.
Maybe, now that I got a better pay check, I might use spot putty on some refurbishments and remakes.Weapons
As of a last treat, I also printed the silenced SMG from ODST
It isn't smoothed or painted yet, but I think it looks great so far.The trigger moves, the magazine is detachable by magnets, and the grip is also movable. I love this model
This one isn't mine at all.Files
I got a lot of requests and PM's for the remaining files. Sorry for my absence! I'll upload the files asap and update the first post. I look forward to seeing what you guys print with them. Please send me a pm with your works!
RedGhost
Active Member
I've been busy again!
First of all, the little tiny shins had to go. So I'm currently printing new ones which are roughly 110% bigger.
Wooohooo for the Creality CR10! The shins could be printed in one part. The print itself takes around 4 entire days and the shin uses 780 grams of PLA. I hope they fit better now As for the black line you see halfway through.. I literally don't know why that happened. The nozzle didn't overheat and there's no molten plastic dripping or something. I've never seen it happen before and when I shine a bright light on it you can't even see it. Spooky.
Furthermore, remember the back piece that broke off and didn't fit at all? Yeah, I fixed that
How'd I do it you ask? Well, I took a heat gun to it, and almost molt is back to filament itself. Then I pushed it around my figure and voila, it was workable! After getting my belt sander and sanding off all the access that was sticking out, it's actually very nice to wear although it limits movement quite severely. Especially in my arms. I tried to work that out but I wasn't really able to do that, so sadly if I wanted to put on my costume I'd need the help from someone else now just to be able to put on the shoulders. The rest is still solo-able. Maybe I'll think of something in the future with magnets so that it can align and lock itself. Who knows
The front plate of the core armor was still too large and bulky to be usable, so it's still sitting on my shelf. I like to think it's awaiting it's day when I need a rock hard pillow or something and I'm out of stones.
Furthermore, last but not least-
I tried to model the backpack from ODST. The core of the backpack I tried to make pretty accurate to ingame. The optional side handle thingies are half game, half own design. I don't know why I did this, to be honest. I thought this'd look cool. I'll probably end up making a game-accurate version too, since they're interchangeable either way. Why'd I make my very own 3d model from start? Well, you see.. All current models are either too low poly, or they aren't functional. One of the things I payed extremely close attention to is the ability for it to open and close so you can put stuff in it, and that it doesn't smash into your head while doing so. Here's what I got so far:
Here it is in it's closed state. The side handles look a bit small in this image, but that's (I think) because of orthographic projection. The measurements are close to other references I could find.
Here it is opened, in it's two-door design. Most surfaces inside the backpack are intentionally flat so you can custom make holders to be 3d printed with a flat glue able surface. It uses four hinges, but I've yet to develop some kind of locking mechanism. I'm debating between magnets, buckles (like on chests) or clips (like on backpacks). The model is printable on my CR10 without cutting it up, since the side handles get screwed in separately later. No glue lines Furthermore, the side handle thingies are entirely "solid", so there's no storage. If you want you could put like a bottle holder in one I guess. You're the boss .
I'm not too sure if I'm gonna print it for this year's conference however, since it's 3kg of plastic. yeah, I don't know if I'm comfortable printing 75 euros for added bulk yet. We'll see.
I also tried using a new methode to smooth out the 3d prints since my previous methode was.. well.. I spent more time sanding than the printer spent printing. I still got PTSD from that. Some of you might know XTC3D. Well, I didn't use that, because hot damn that stuff's expansive. However, I did use an alternative- Epoxy, since XTC3D is just a fancy epoxy. The results are stunning. After one simple layer, the entire surface was pretty much completely smooth. It's cheap, easy, safer (as in safer than a million woodfiller particles) and quicker. I bought 1.5kg (including hardener) for 25 euros. I'll begin testing it on a final model (the shin) as soon as this one is done printing by Monday. See you then, folks
First of all, the little tiny shins had to go. So I'm currently printing new ones which are roughly 110% bigger.
Wooohooo for the Creality CR10! The shins could be printed in one part. The print itself takes around 4 entire days and the shin uses 780 grams of PLA. I hope they fit better now
As for the black line you see halfway through.. I literally don't know why that happened. The nozzle didn't overheat and there's no molten plastic dripping or something. I've never seen it happen before and when I shine a bright light on it you can't even see it. Spooky.Furthermore, remember the back piece that broke off and didn't fit at all? Yeah, I fixed that
How'd I do it you ask? Well, I took a heat gun to it, and almost molt is back to filament itself. Then I pushed it around my figure and voila, it was workable! After getting my belt sander and sanding off all the access that was sticking out, it's actually very nice to wear although it limits movement quite severely. Especially in my arms. I tried to work that out but I wasn't really able to do that, so sadly if I wanted to put on my costume I'd need the help from someone else now just to be able to put on the shoulders. The rest is still solo-able. Maybe I'll think of something in the future with magnets so that it can align and lock itself. Who knows
The front plate of the core armor was still too large and bulky to be usable, so it's still sitting on my shelf. I like to think it's awaiting it's day when I need a rock hard pillow or something and I'm out of stones.
Furthermore, last but not least-
I tried to model the backpack from ODST. The core of the backpack I tried to make pretty accurate to ingame. The optional side handle thingies are half game, half own design. I don't know why I did this, to be honest. I thought this'd look cool. I'll probably end up making a game-accurate version too, since they're interchangeable either way. Why'd I make my very own 3d model from start? Well, you see.. All current models are either too low poly, or they aren't functional. One of the things I payed extremely close attention to is the ability for it to open and close so you can put stuff in it, and that it doesn't smash into your head while doing so. Here's what I got so far:
Here it is in it's closed state. The side handles look a bit small in this image, but that's (I think) because of orthographic projection. The measurements are close to other references I could find.
Here it is opened, in it's two-door design. Most surfaces inside the backpack are intentionally flat so you can custom make holders to be 3d printed with a flat glue able surface. It uses four hinges, but I've yet to develop some kind of locking mechanism. I'm debating between magnets, buckles (like on chests) or clips (like on backpacks). The model is printable on my CR10 without cutting it up, since the side handles get screwed in separately later. No glue lines
Furthermore, the side handle thingies are entirely "solid", so there's no storage. If you want you could put like a bottle holder in one I guess. You're the boss .I'm not too sure if I'm gonna print it for this year's conference however, since it's 3kg of plastic. yeah, I don't know if I'm comfortable printing 75 euros for added bulk yet. We'll see.
I also tried using a new methode to smooth out the 3d prints since my previous methode was.. well.. I spent more time sanding than the printer spent printing. I still got PTSD from that. Some of you might know XTC3D. Well, I didn't use that, because hot damn that stuff's expansive. However, I did use an alternative- Epoxy, since XTC3D is just a fancy epoxy. The results are stunning. After one simple layer, the entire surface was pretty much completely smooth. It's cheap, easy, safer (as in safer than a million woodfiller particles) and quicker. I bought 1.5kg (including hardener) for 25 euros. I'll begin testing it on a final model (the shin) as soon as this one is done printing by Monday. See you then, folks
Last edited:
RedGhost
Active Member
It's done printing! Hooray! Now to test if it actually fits or not...
There it is, cleaned up
IT FITS WITHOUT PROBLEMS!! Happy days.
It's also a LOT smoother and there's no z-wobble to be seen so that's gonna make smoothing easier than I could think of. I'm gonna print the second one now, and it'll be done on either Tuesday or Wednesday. See you then, or earlier
Last edited:
Callianis
Member
That backpack is looking awesome. I don't see many ODSTs with backpacks so I was considering one for the future too. One that I can put stuff in would be awesome, even if I won't be able to reach the backpack myself Maybe I can hide a Camel Pak in it ^_^
Spot putty isn't terribly cheap here either (Australia), about $14AUD for 2x30ml tubes. But used sparingly for small holes and scratches, it can go a long way. For big holes it's a job for automotive filler/Bondo. So: Bondo, spot putty, filler primer, and lots and lots of sanding.
The thing about epoxy smoothers is it can soften edges that you might want to keep sharp. Or possibly fill in cracks and grooves you would rather remain unfilled. But as you say, quicker than endless sanding and coats of filler primer.
I've started experimenting with PETG filament instead of my usual PLA. It's more sandable than PLA. My ODST helmet is about 80% printed. Hope it fits
Keen to see how your shins come out after the epoxy coat.
Maybe I can hide a Camel Pak in it ^_^Spot putty isn't terribly cheap here either (Australia), about $14AUD for 2x30ml tubes. But used sparingly for small holes and scratches, it can go a long way. For big holes it's a job for automotive filler/Bondo. So: Bondo, spot putty, filler primer, and lots and lots of sanding.
The thing about epoxy smoothers is it can soften edges that you might want to keep sharp. Or possibly fill in cracks and grooves you would rather remain unfilled. But as you say, quicker than endless sanding and coats of filler primer.
I've started experimenting with PETG filament instead of my usual PLA. It's more sandable than PLA. My ODST helmet is about 80% printed. Hope it fits
Keen to see how your shins come out after the epoxy coat.
I am just now starting this as well, and let me say, I want to worship the ground you walk on right now. Finding the files to print has been a pain in the butt. I'm taking a lot of notes from your progress, I'll make a separate thread when I have some work completed. Maybe we can swap notes afterwards!
RedGhost
Active Member
That backpack is looking awesome. I don't see many ODSTs with backpacks so I was considering one for the future too. One that I can put stuff in would be awesome, even if I won't be able to reach the backpack myself
Spot putty isn't terribly cheap here either (Australia), about $14AUD for 2x30ml tubes. But used sparingly for small holes and scratches, it can go a long way. For big holes it's a job for automotive filler/Bondo. So: Bondo, spot putty, filler primer, and lots and lots of sanding.
The thing about epoxy smoothers is it can soften edges that you might want to keep sharp. Or possibly fill in cracks and grooves you would rather remain unfilled. But as you say, quicker than endless sanding and coats of filler primer.
I've started experimenting with PETG filament instead of my usual PLA. It's more sandable than PLA. My ODST helmet is about 80% printed. Hope it fits
Keen to see how your shins come out after the epoxy coat.
Thank you! Came pack hiding is extremely duable. I wanted to put in some water bottles that my friends could hand me in case I’d almost die, but a camel pack is even better. I’ll make a version with a hole for the camel pack as well
Spot putty is (sadly) pretty expensive local to me, and I kind of got ptsd by sanding too much so I don’t want to go that road again. That said- it’s still a very solid option and I in no way discourage the practice.
I agree with what you said about epoxy. It’s additive and whilst that’s great for extra strenght etc, it does add weight and it does hide detail. In practice I’ve noticed it’s not as bad as it seems. I’ll post pictures later
epoxy is so far a huge succesI actually use PETG rehulary for work. I love how sandable and robust it is, but petg is 150% more expansive from my perferrable brand that it just doesn’t justify the cost to advantages for me. However that said if you have the option to use petg, please use that instead. I fear the day my armor deforms because of a hot summer in my car.
That’s very nice of you
. I’d love to see your thread and I’d love to hear from your findings as well! Furthermore, every mistake we make will prevent the mistake for someone else 
Sean Anwalt
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S530
Weelllllllllll........
So I was looking at reference pictures last night and I was thinking about the issues you were having with the shin and forearms fitting correctly. In gerard2567 's post (Landfall ODST Soft goods analysis.) you can see that the forearms and shin guards. are buckled together.
RedGhost
Active Member
You're right! I think (at least for the forearms) it's more so because the armor pieces are vac-formed though. You can see this in the making of video they posted. For the shins that's actually a good idea, it's similar to what I did for my older shins. These ones fit through so there's no need anymore
RedGhost
Active Member
Update time! So it's been a while huh? Did you miss me?
I've finished both legs, hooray! The epoxy was a success, somewhat. The problem is.. Epoxy's nasty. It's extremely runny and you can get allergies for the stuff. I'd even go and say it's worse than polyester resin. Here's the progress:
So first of all, I simply filled the larger defects with wall filler and then epoxied it two times. It turned out pretty fine I think
After a bit of sanding, then spray paint:
And lastly the weathering:
You can see the layer lines in this picture, but it's only on the inside of this part (it's not on the other shin) and it isn't that noticeable without a flash
I also added some stickers on my suit, I think it really adds character:
\
Furthermore, do you see electronics in my helmet right there? Yes of course! The big drawback of the cooling/fan system I've had installed before is that it was on/off and didn't do much even at full power. That's why I modified the step-up module I had installed with a potentiometer (1k ohm) and a 1k8 ohm resistor to make it variable between 7 and 12 volts when supplied with 5v
It worked great, and I can save up to 300% of the power on the lowest setting!
This is how I installed it in my helmet. You see the missing visor? Oh no! I ripped it off because it sucked anyway and I've been looking for a new, better made one. Don't worry, I'll get it done this time. I've already bought a new one from Australia that's in the making right now! Anyway, the fans are working extremely well in this configuration. They blow air right on my temples, which helps with cooling, and then on the visor which helps with potential fogging. All my breathed out air can never go back in the circulation thanks to positive pressure created by the fans. There was only one more part I had to figure out, and that's where to put the electronics.
This hot mess of cables is the result. It looks messy, but that's just because it is messy.
Oh, the switch is three-way now! So I can even toggle to led lights and dim them too if I want to. I'll see if I end up doing that.
There's only one more problem, the power bank doesn't fit in the side vent compartment thingy anymore. Time to go to the drawing table...
After a bit of working and brain storming I printed out this bad boy
It slots on to my power bank like this:
Pretty great!
I ended up putting it behind my neck, as it was the best location there was. Since it's hinged now I can take it out and put it back in so I don't need to sacrifice my powerbank anymore and I can swap it out if needed. They're only 10 euros and they last 11 hours on the lowest fan setting
Here it looks in the end. I'm using an elastic band to keep it in place on the other side.
It's quite comfortable and that's great
The fans work (like I said before) even better than expected. Putting the helmet on is easy, getting it off is a bit harder and the fans sadly rattle a bit. I'll have to survive with that
Next on the list was my ODST smg
At first I epoxied the entire thing too. It worked out great, but I lost the functional trigger in the process. Oh well, no big deal. I then primed it:
After that spraypaint and masking
And here it is, the finished product!
I'm extremely happy with how that turned out
Post continued in next comment because of image limits
I've finished both legs, hooray! The epoxy was a success, somewhat. The problem is.. Epoxy's nasty. It's extremely runny and you can get allergies for the stuff. I'd even go and say it's worse than polyester resin. Here's the progress:
So first of all, I simply filled the larger defects with wall filler and then epoxied it two times. It turned out pretty fine I think
After a bit of sanding, then spray paint:
And lastly the weathering:
You can see the layer lines in this picture, but it's only on the inside of this part (it's not on the other shin) and it isn't that noticeable without a flash
I also added some stickers on my suit, I think it really adds character:
Furthermore, do you see electronics in my helmet right there? Yes of course! The big drawback of the cooling/fan system I've had installed before is that it was on/off and didn't do much even at full power. That's why I modified the step-up module I had installed with a potentiometer (1k ohm) and a 1k8 ohm resistor to make it variable between 7 and 12 volts when supplied with 5v
It worked great, and I can save up to 300% of the power on the lowest setting!
This is how I installed it in my helmet. You see the missing visor? Oh no! I ripped it off because it sucked anyway and I've been looking for a new, better made one. Don't worry, I'll get it done this time. I've already bought a new one from Australia that's in the making right now! Anyway, the fans are working extremely well in this configuration. They blow air right on my temples, which helps with cooling, and then on the visor which helps with potential fogging. All my breathed out air can never go back in the circulation thanks to positive pressure created by the fans. There was only one more part I had to figure out, and that's where to put the electronics.
This hot mess of cables is the result. It looks messy, but that's just because it is messy.
Oh, the switch is three-way now! So I can even toggle to led lights and dim them too if I want to. I'll see if I end up doing that.
There's only one more problem, the power bank doesn't fit in the side vent compartment thingy anymore. Time to go to the drawing table...
After a bit of working and brain storming I printed out this bad boy
It slots on to my power bank like this:
Pretty great!
I ended up putting it behind my neck, as it was the best location there was. Since it's hinged now I can take it out and put it back in so I don't need to sacrifice my powerbank anymore and I can swap it out if needed. They're only 10 euros and they last 11 hours on the lowest fan setting
Here it looks in the end. I'm using an elastic band to keep it in place on the other side.
It's quite comfortable and that's great
The fans work (like I said before) even better than expected. Putting the helmet on is easy, getting it off is a bit harder and the fans sadly rattle a bit. I'll have to survive with that
Next on the list was my ODST smg
At first I epoxied the entire thing too. It worked out great, but I lost the functional trigger in the process. Oh well, no big deal. I then primed it:
After that spraypaint and masking
And here it is, the finished product!
I'm extremely happy with how that turned out
Post continued in next comment because of image limits
RedGhost
Active Member
Continuation of last comment:
Last but not least, I've started printing the backpack!
I've also found some pretty cool springy hinges for cabinets that lock in the open and closed position. The files are modified to house them
Sadly, there are two problems with them.. First of all, they only open up to 90 degrees full or closed, which is 45 degrees too much. Secondly, they're extremely stiff and I'm worried it might break the plastic. If I feel like that's the case I might reinforce my backpack with a lot of glue and 2mm aluminum. We'll see.
Further more, I've been thinking about how anyone could go in my backpack without me knowing! It's not like I got eyes in the back of my helmet haha. At first I played with the idea of using an alarm with a secret button, but that'd require another power source and was wayy too complicated and it's not like I can run after the thief in my suit anyways. After some thinking and looking I've found some cool cabinet locks of which I purchased one and integrated it in my model.
The blue part retracts when the red part (when the key is inserted) twists. I think it'll work out great It came with two keys so I can give one to my buddy so he can open up the backpack, and the spare one I'll hot-glue somewhere on my armor's inside in case the main key is lost or something. I think it'll turn out fine that way.
That's all for now, see you next time people!
Last but not least, I've started printing the backpack!
I've also found some pretty cool springy hinges for cabinets that lock in the open and closed position. The files are modified to house them
Sadly, there are two problems with them.. First of all, they only open up to 90 degrees full or closed, which is 45 degrees too much. Secondly, they're extremely stiff and I'm worried it might break the plastic. If I feel like that's the case I might reinforce my backpack with a lot of glue and 2mm aluminum. We'll see.
Further more, I've been thinking about how anyone could go in my backpack without me knowing! It's not like I got eyes in the back of my helmet haha. At first I played with the idea of using an alarm with a secret button, but that'd require another power source and was wayy too complicated and it's not like I can run after the thief in my suit anyways. After some thinking and looking I've found some cool cabinet locks of which I purchased one and integrated it in my model.
The blue part retracts when the red part (when the key is inserted) twists. I think it'll work out great
It came with two keys so I can give one to my buddy so he can open up the backpack, and the spare one I'll hot-glue somewhere on my armor's inside in case the main key is lost or something. I think it'll turn out fine that way.That's all for now, see you next time people!
Callianis
Member
Cool bananas
Are your stickers clear coated in anything or just stuck on the top?
Is wall filler that white chalky stuff that's super easy to sand? I used that for some pieces in the past but was selective due to it's softness, but I guess adding epoxy over the top adds the strength.
I've been using bicarb of soda as a super glue accelerant for my 3D printed ODST helmet pieces. Sets rock hard and seems to have no trouble bonding PETG (I heard it was difficult to glue inc with super glue or expoxy). I've been using it as a gap filler too (mainly on the glued edges I wanted to reinforce) - pack the gap with bicarb, add a drop of super glue which soaks right in. Because it sets so hard I wear out my rotary sanding drums. Using a rotary on this stuff also releases the superglue vapour that'll sting your eyes, so recommend respirator, glasses or googles, and a fan with open window. I'll probably stick to spot putty for the other things I want to fill in.
I need to think about helmet cooling too and think will go down the "blower" fan style like you did. I know of an ODST who cut some subtle vents in the back of their helmet (picture 3 here - Praetorian Fabrications on Instagram: “I've been slowly weathering this helmet. But I might go back give it a black wash and re-applying the metallic accents. . . . . #haloodst…”).
The sound insulation foam idea seems cool - does it allow for airflow over your head?
Are your stickers clear coated in anything or just stuck on the top?
Is wall filler that white chalky stuff that's super easy to sand? I used that for some pieces in the past but was selective due to it's softness, but I guess adding epoxy over the top adds the strength.
I've been using bicarb of soda as a super glue accelerant for my 3D printed ODST helmet pieces. Sets rock hard and seems to have no trouble bonding PETG (I heard it was difficult to glue inc with super glue or expoxy). I've been using it as a gap filler too (mainly on the glued edges I wanted to reinforce) - pack the gap with bicarb, add a drop of super glue which soaks right in. Because it sets so hard I wear out my rotary sanding drums. Using a rotary on this stuff also releases the superglue vapour that'll sting your eyes, so recommend respirator, glasses or googles, and a fan with open window. I'll probably stick to spot putty for the other things I want to fill in.
I need to think about helmet cooling too and think will go down the "blower" fan style like you did. I know of an ODST who cut some subtle vents in the back of their helmet (picture 3 here - Praetorian Fabrications on Instagram: “I've been slowly weathering this helmet. But I might go back give it a black wash and re-applying the metallic accents. . . . . #haloodst…”).
The sound insulation foam idea seems cool - does it allow for airflow over your head?
RedGhost
Active Member
Cool bananas
Are your stickers clear coated in anything or just stuck on the top?
Is wall filler that white chalky stuff that's super easy to sand? I used that for some pieces in the past but was selective due to it's softness, but I guess adding epoxy over the top adds the strength.
I've been using bicarb of soda as a super glue accelerant for my 3D printed ODST helmet pieces. Sets rock hard and seems to have no trouble bonding PETG (I heard it was difficult to glue inc with super glue or expoxy). I've been using it as a gap filler too (mainly on the glued edges I wanted to reinforce) - pack the gap with bicarb, add a drop of super glue which soaks right in. Because it sets so hard I wear out my rotary sanding drums. Using a rotary on this stuff also releases the superglue vapour that'll sting your eyes, so recommend respirator, glasses or googles, and a fan with open window. I'll probably stick to spot putty for the other things I want to fill in.
I need to think about helmet cooling too and think will go down the "blower" fan style like you did. I know of an ODST who cut some subtle vents in the back of their helmet (picture 3 here - Praetorian Fabrications on Instagram: “I've been slowly weathering this helmet. But I might go back give it a black wash and re-applying the metallic accents. . . . . #haloodst…”).
The sound insulation foam idea seems cool - does it allow for airflow over your head?
Thank you!
No, there's no clear coat over the stickers. It looks better this way, even if it might be fragile-er
Yeahhh, it doesn't matter that it's not strong- it gets covered by epoxy anyways like you mentioned.
Pretty cool tip for super glue
, thanks!The vents in the back are a smart idea, I might look into it.
No, there's no airflow through the foam. It's cheap, very comfortable and easily malleable into the helmet but there's virtually no airflow possible.
xTPTx SHADOW
New Member
I just have to say that you compiling all the parts for download on one post has been a god send. I tried to go the pepakura route for my armor but it didn't turn out right. Bought a 3D printer and have been looking for some of these files for a while now. You are the best.
RedGhost
Active Member
Thank you! Most of the files I've actually made 3d printable and smoothed myself
Thank you! The suit is finished now, and I went on FACTS with it as well! The last progress post will follow shortlyThis entire build thread is great, however the original design of the backpack is pretty cool! Keep it up, we'll all be watching.
-Matt
RedGhost
Active Member
Sooooooo, I decided I'll post the remaining updates in parts! This way, I can go into greater detail of what I did and the information will be in nice, bite-sized packages. First of all, the backpack.
So first, the printing :d
The back-side turned out fine! The gold is really pretty. Too bad I have to cover it up haha. Can't have too much bling in my costume right? Otherwise the enemies might see me glow
Here are the lids! Printed in nuclear green which I too like a lot. Too bad it'll be covered up as well.
Here are the internals. As you can see the hinges fit pretty nicely. They snap quite good, which is particularly important to know if someone goes in them or for them to close back up properly.
The lock doesn't lock properly through. It's mostly because the bottom lid can move too, and they move in such a way that there is a gap first before it opens up. I ended up working around this by remelting the bolt catch shown here:
Furthermore I made the bottom lid permanently locked by little clips:
This makes it very secure and impossible to open without the key. Succes!
Here are the side pieces printed, right above a new toy I bought
Ready for primer! I ended up spraying a lot of primer directly on the print this time, without epoxy. I did this because the side walls were already super smooth right out of my finely tuned printer. Hooray!
Here it is after sanding, more primer and spray paint! Looking solid so far, still some work to do
After repeating the priming and sanding stages some more, and being happy with the final look after the black spray paint, I ended up spray painting some spots gray like I did on other pieces of armor.
Looking better and better ;3 Now for some weathering...
And at last, a couple of stickers
There we go, the backpack is done!
Here it is, the first test fit. I ended up hanging it by the two clips on the back of the back-armor plate I made. However, I felt like this wasn't secure enough, so I added another clip that runs from the middle of the neck-piece to the middle of the backpack that holds it really secure in place. To keep it from moving all over the place, I added rubber elastic band on the bottom with another clip. It works quite well, but the 3kg backpack is quite heavy and my shoulders are still hurting from past weekend.
Here it is, the final fit on the final costume
More to come!
So first, the printing :d
The back-side turned out fine! The gold is really pretty. Too bad I have to cover it up haha. Can't have too much bling in my costume right? Otherwise the enemies might see me glow
Here are the lids! Printed in nuclear green which I too like a lot. Too bad it'll be covered up as well.
Here are the internals. As you can see the hinges fit pretty nicely. They snap quite good, which is particularly important to know if someone goes in them or for them to close back up properly.
The lock doesn't lock properly through. It's mostly because the bottom lid can move too, and they move in such a way that there is a gap first before it opens up. I ended up working around this by remelting the bolt catch shown here:
Furthermore I made the bottom lid permanently locked by little clips:
This makes it very secure and impossible to open without the key. Succes!
Here are the side pieces printed, right above a new toy I bought
Ready for primer! I ended up spraying a lot of primer directly on the print this time, without epoxy. I did this because the side walls were already super smooth right out of my finely tuned printer. Hooray!
Here it is after sanding, more primer and spray paint! Looking solid so far, still some work to do
After repeating the priming and sanding stages some more, and being happy with the final look after the black spray paint, I ended up spray painting some spots gray like I did on other pieces of armor.
Looking better and better ;3 Now for some weathering...
And at last, a couple of stickers
There we go, the backpack is done!
Here it is, the first test fit. I ended up hanging it by the two clips on the back of the back-armor plate I made. However, I felt like this wasn't secure enough, so I added another clip that runs from the middle of the neck-piece to the middle of the backpack that holds it really secure in place. To keep it from moving all over the place, I added rubber elastic band on the bottom with another clip. It works quite well, but the 3kg backpack is quite heavy and my shoulders are still hurting from past weekend.
Here it is, the final fit on the final costume
More to come!
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