mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Kaween, what is your reasoning for a raft?
3D printer HELP thread
- Thread starter peterthethinker
- Start date
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Honestly, kaween, you should consider reseting your slicer to defaults..can't really think of much else...if your'e THAT desperate, you should. just remember your presets.
I'm seeing the problems with both Cura and S3D. The problems occur only after invoking G29 bed level probing on a 7x7 matrix. I'm starting to believe something is wrong with the values of the probing Matrix, as I've read there are versions of Repetier which drop or incorperate false matrix values in the first or last step of the measurement.
As the same file yields different results only when the situation is either G33 leveled or G29 leveled (the same Gcode), I exclude the posibility of the slicer itself being an issue. IF so, the problem would not appear and disappear depending on the stored correction values in the machines' Eeprom, and it's highly doubtful the Gcode of both Cura and S3D would be the cause of exactly the same error.
As for RAFT, I know this is a war of beliefs, and the mantra "Rafts are evil" is very popular. I'm old school.
I don't use rafts as default. But there are prints where that gives me the best results.
Certainly will very large sized parts printed in ABS (like 200x200 or bigger, the combination of a thin raft, held in place with ABS juice on a glass plate is my best way of getting warpfree ABS+ prints. Without that ? Issues with Warp and curling.) Small surface parts ? Sure. No issues there. Big ones with a very big surface footpint ? Not that much success without rafts.
I've just today started to experiment with a PEI surface and abs juice to make the stuff stick to it, maybe that will work better, but on glass and kapton, I didn't have much luck doing large to oversized parts in ABS+ without warping otherwise.
As the same file yields different results only when the situation is either G33 leveled or G29 leveled (the same Gcode), I exclude the posibility of the slicer itself being an issue. IF so, the problem would not appear and disappear depending on the stored correction values in the machines' Eeprom, and it's highly doubtful the Gcode of both Cura and S3D would be the cause of exactly the same error.
As for RAFT, I know this is a war of beliefs, and the mantra "Rafts are evil" is very popular. I'm old school.
I don't use rafts as default. But there are prints where that gives me the best results.
Certainly will very large sized parts printed in ABS (like 200x200 or bigger, the combination of a thin raft, held in place with ABS juice on a glass plate is my best way of getting warpfree ABS+ prints. Without that ? Issues with Warp and curling.) Small surface parts ? Sure. No issues there. Big ones with a very big surface footpint ? Not that much success without rafts.
I've just today started to experiment with a PEI surface and abs juice to make the stuff stick to it, maybe that will work better, but on glass and kapton, I didn't have much luck doing large to oversized parts in ABS+ without warping otherwise.
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Hrrm... I understood most of that.
nah, just joking
nah, just joking
ajmadison
New Member
I did try it. (yup its expensive. but decided I'm either all in or not for this hobby, and went all in.) My first issue is that NetFabb pro, *unlike* the free, only runs on Windoze. Eek. I don't have a Windoze machine (yeah, its from the fruit company). So I got the trial version of Parallels. I researched running NetFabb pro (actually just the installer) with Wine (which runs on Mac and Ubuntu). But it ran into dll issues, and the latest post about how to fix it, is dated 2012. Okay, back to Parallels and sigh, Windows 10. Everything went seamlessly. Parallels installed, Windows 10 installed, NetFabb installed. And it runs, and it doesn't crash, much. Apparently be careful where you place points for doing the polygonal cuts. At which point I went with boolean difference using boxes, and the cylinder cuts.
But, to quote Gilda Radner, *its always something*. Though it prints solid, the STL I am working with is hollow, despite using different CAD tools to make it solid before editing it. I am going to finish modifying the part of interest, then run it through MeshMixer to add "thickness" to the mesh. And this is only the top half of the piece. I know this is mostly alphabet soup to alot of you, but converting even a supposedly printer ready set of files into something more is not easy, and even harder if you want to do it on a budget.
Meanwhile, I find the conversation on CAD tools extremely useful. More than willing to share what I do know how to do with others.
peterthethinker
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S386
FYI Meshmixrer does VERY bad at mesh to solid .. Try blender .
Blerk,Parallels.Talking about a kludge solution. Shudder
I've got Bootcamp running on my Imac, I never have issues, and I did so exactly because in my professional life I've run into so many issues with Parallels it's not funny anymore. As the overpriced Frootloops company also hamper Bootcamp performance by locking out the use of Fusion drives on a Bootcamp, my Bootcamp runs from a Thunderbolt external SSD which "offically speaking" is not possible according to Apple, but it's pretty easy to do.
If push comes to shove, you can send the file that's bothering you to me. I'll see what I can do.
PS : Although I hold an ACSP and have 2 Apple machines myself, I actually prefer the Redmond OS any day in professional life, certainly in networking enviroments. But that's just my peronsal opinion and I've said it in the past : this Imac is my last Apple EVER.
But to everyone his own.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
This thread should include filament selection - good brands, great brands, and brands to stay away from. The best printer on the planet probably isn't going to perform well at all when using the worst filament on the planet. Would be good to see filament supplier and material property ratings here.
LoneBlackfang
New Member
If you need any help feel free to message me here and I will be glad to help.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but got a different printer and it's working just fine.
Takanuva
Member
Sorry if this counts as necroposting, or if this thread isn't meant to be replied to. But I haven't found another appropriate place I could post this question. Do any of you have experience with the Monoprice Maker Select Plus? It's a Prusa i3 clone. I'm about to pull the trigger on one so I can start putting together a suit of Halo armor, but I wanted to get some feedback from some others here who have used it for large scale projects like a full suit of armor.
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
I have a monopMonomaker select 2 which is very similar just lacking a few features. I think it is a great printer as long as you didon screw up the z axis like me. I would talk to TurboCharizard as he actually uses his
Lieutenant Jaku
Sr Member
Yeah I'm just not very good at it and don't have alot of time, I got it working but it was misaligned again.
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
If you're making armour Takanuva , the Prusa clones are good but I'd look for something with a larger print volume so that you are less constrained and have less splitting to do overall.
Take a look at the Tevo Tornado or Creality CR-10 for their larger size and low price point. I've been running my Tevo for about a month now and have been getting quality similar to my Wanhao but am printing larger pieces at a faster rate.
Take a look at the Tevo Tornado or Creality CR-10 for their larger size and low price point. I've been running my Tevo for about a month now and have been getting quality similar to my Wanhao but am printing larger pieces at a faster rate.
Takanuva
Member
Thanks for that TurboCharizard! I checked out those two models you just named, as well as the Creality Ender 3. I compared all of their specs and prices, and I'm still really liking that Monoprice. The larger build volumes of the other printers are good, but except for that, that Monoprice fits in pretty well as far as heated bed and nozzle temperature capabilities go. And I can get it for $300 with free shipping and no sales tax, and have it shipped in 2 or 3 days. All things considered, I think that I'm going to go for the Monoprice. The build volume is still fairly large, even compared to what was common several years ago for the price. I can handle splitting and assembling parts.
MonsterMask
Member
Creality cr 10 is great 3d printer. I have 4 of them and only can complain about hot end . It is good to keep spare one (mk8 or mk10) and hot end nozzle . I printed few costumes using this printers and still using stock parts. In new version you do not have access to settings in control box soo need to change them in Simplify3d etc .
Crimmson
Well-Known Member
That hot end on a cr-10, I have gone through 3 of in the last 3 months. One lasted 2 years the next one 2 months. I have noticed that if I have my print bed to close the pla will push out the top end of the nozzle if its loose. I will say that I will probably get an other one as there is a new version of it.
HATE Recon
Member
- Member DIN
- S071
I have a 3D Printed prop business on etsy and I have 2 CR-10s and a prusa I3, so I'd be happy to help anyone with questions regarding 3D Printed props or printers in general.
