3D Printing?

[LanternFox]

So, I was thinking and it has come to my realization that using EVA foam and a heat gun might not be a good thing for me to do. I say this because I have asthma and even wearing a good mask I have a hard time breathing.

So, I started to go with plan B which was in the back of my head on using 3D printer.

So, my question is what kind of printers do you guys and ladies use? I know there are a few out there. I'm just need some guidance on this one big time. And what I need to know about it.

 

[SgtSaint]

My regular 'new printed armorer' post:

The actual 405th website has a vast armory of files.
The Armory
And 3d model index
Free 3D Model Index

A curated list of tutorials:
Tutorial Index

One of many, many, many build threads.
MK-VI gen3, as Silver timeline (TV series)
https://www.405th.com/.../build-2-mk-vi-gen-3-with-some.../

Not saying: Don't ask
Am saying: There are so many experienced armorers that have poured collective man-years into really good build threads, articles and tutorials filled with do's and don'ts and wish-I-had-knowns that you're doing yourself a disservice by not reading them. A casual afternoon of reading the tales of those that came before you would put you MONTHS further ahead, save you time, money, effort, wastage and exasperation. Not to mention after all those people's hard work making the articles it would be a shame for them to not get read.

Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.

If you've never done an armor build before you might want your first armor to be one without the really tight tolerances of a Spartan or Ironman. I confess I made about 3 Spartan armors to get my first one right. It was very Goldilocks of "This is too big, this is too small, this is just right" with every part. If I had known then what I learned through the process I would have made a Mandalorian (least actual armor) then an ODST then Spartan and actually gotten 2-3 good wearable costumes instead of a lot of waste. I mean, if you're going to print 3 costumes either way, might well have 3 costumes instead of 1 and a pile of wrong-sized prints, right?

If you are new to 3d printing or considering buying your first 3d printer just so you can make an armor:
3d printers have come a long way since I started with them in 2009. But they still aren't fully plug-n-play like a department store inkjet: But some of the newest & smallest ones are getting there. There's a lot more to 3d printing than just hitting print: Like knowing your different materials and when to use them. Or knowing when more walls and less infil, or more infil and less walls is the right choice. You should expect there to be a learning curve and at $20/spool that curve comes with a cost. I'm just saying walk into 3d printing with your eyes open.
"What's your printer?" thread on the 405th forum:
What's Your Printer?
I wish I knew this about printers before buying discussion:
"I wish I knew" Tips When Starting to 3d Print
°
Jumping right to armor is really not the best way to go when beginning 3d printing. You really want to work up to something this big and specialized. Work up to things so big that a 3% goof can mean added costs, joints that lock up and you can't bend your elbow etc. Little easy things first… Things with no supports to start. Move up to props like pistols. And keep moving upward over time.
• A few settings differences can be the difference between a part too weak to be used and printing your armor so heavy it's exhausting to wear. The difference between a $10 part and a $40 part adds up to a significant difference over an entire armor.

If it's your first printer taking a hybrid approach can actually save money. Get the small bed printer for home use and see if you even like doing this. Large 500mm machines aren't cheap and take up space and fails are proportionately expensive. If you love doing it and can justify the big printer as your second or third machine, go for it. But if you want to make the smaller things at home and outsource the big stuff to a print farm like www.starbase3d.com (mine for transparency) the extra-large printers mean being able to have big armor pieces like legs/chest/back done in single-prints instead of several seams to be glued and blended into invisibility.

 

[LanternFox]

My regular 'new printed armorer' post:

The actual 405th website has a vast armory of files.
The Armory
And 3d model index
Free 3D Model Index

A curated list of tutorials:
Tutorial Index

One of many, many, many build threads.
MK-VI gen3, as Silver timeline (TV series)
https://www.405th.com/.../build-2-mk-vi-gen-3-with-some.../

Not saying: Don't ask
Am saying: There are so many experienced armorers that have poured collective man-years into really good build threads, articles and tutorials filled with do's and don'ts and wish-I-had-knowns that you're doing yourself a disservice by not reading them. A casual afternoon of reading the tales of those that came before you would put you MONTHS further ahead, save you time, money, effort, wastage and exasperation. Not to mention after all those people's hard work making the articles it would be a shame for them to not get read.

Helmet probably should be last, not first. Yeah yeah, everyone wants a helmet to drool over. But it's the thing everyone stares at so you want to do it AFTER you've developed a process, techniques and skills.
Personally I always recommend starting at the feet & hands then working up & in to the body.
• You're going to weather and distress the boots more than anything else... and they get looked at with the least critical eye.
• Then shins which have to ride on the boots.
• Then thighs since you have to avoid joint conflict so you can sit etc.
• See how this goes? Up from the boots, and inward from the hands to forearms to biceps to shoulders.
• By the time you get to the chest and helmet; the parts at eye level that everyone stares at, looks at first, is right there in your face in every photo - you can make them look stellar.
And if you start at the boots you're looking at parts that are only a day or two per part not 6 days per part. So you can hone your scaling skills.

If you've never done an armor build before you might want your first armor to be one without the really tight tolerances of a Spartan or Ironman. I confess I made about 3 Spartan armors to get my first one right. It was very Goldilocks of "This is too big, this is too small, this is just right" with every part. If I had known then what I learned through the process I would have made a Mandalorian (least actual armor) then an ODST then Spartan and actually gotten 2-3 good wearable costumes instead of a lot of waste. I mean, if you're going to print 3 costumes either way, might well have 3 costumes instead of 1 and a pile of wrong-sized prints, right?

If you are new to 3d printing or considering buying your first 3d printer just so you can make an armor:
3d printers have come a long way since I started with them in 2009. But they still aren't fully plug-n-play like a department store inkjet: But some of the newest & smallest ones are getting there. There's a lot more to 3d printing than just hitting print: Like knowing your different materials and when to use them. Or knowing when more walls and less infil, or more infil and less walls is the right choice. You should expect there to be a learning curve and at $20/spool that curve comes with a cost. I'm just saying walk into 3d printing with your eyes open.
"What's your printer?" thread on the 405th forum:
What's Your Printer?
I wish I knew this about printers before buying discussion:
"I wish I knew" Tips When Starting to 3d Print
°
Jumping right to armor is really not the best way to go when beginning 3d printing. You really want to work up to something this big and specialized. Work up to things so big that a 3% goof can mean added costs, joints that lock up and you can't bend your elbow etc. Little easy things first… Things with no supports to start. Move up to props like pistols. And keep moving upward over time.
• A few settings differences can be the difference between a part too weak to be used and printing your armor so heavy it's exhausting to wear. The difference between a $10 part and a $40 part adds up to a significant difference over an entire armor.

If it's your first printer taking a hybrid approach can actually save money. Get the small bed printer for home use and see if you even like doing this. Large 500mm machines aren't cheap and take up space and fails are proportionately expensive. If you love doing it and can justify the big printer as your second or third machine, go for it. But if you want to make the smaller things at home and outsource the big stuff to a print farm like www.starbase3d.com (mine for transparency) the extra-large printers mean being able to have big armor pieces like legs/chest/back done in single-prints instead of several seams to be glued and blended into invisibility.

Thanks. I'll keep on doing my research on this. I'm just seeing my options. And of course I keep on forgetting about the booklet that I have read. Lol. I think it does mention pros and cons for everything on making armor in different ways.

 

[Cadet]

You mention Asthma and having a hard time breathing, so, just understand that 3D printing will require the use of a mask just as much, or more so than an EVA foam costume. You are going to have to smooth, sand, and finish a 3D print, and all the popular methods of doing that, resin, bondo/filer putty, use of orbital and palm sanders, all of which are further detailed in the many tutorials and build threads already linked to you by Clint, are going to require you to use a mask due to either fumes or particulates.

 

[LanternFox]

You mention Asthma and having a hard time breathing, so, just understand that 3D printing will require the use of a mask just as much, or more so than the an EVA foam costume. You are going to have to smooth, sand, and finish a 3D print, and all the popular methods of doing that, resin, bondo/filer putty, use of orbital and palm sanders, all of which are further detailed in the many tutorials and build threads already linked to you by Clint, are going to require you to use a mask due to either fumes or particulates.

Good point.

 

[SgtSaint]

To continue on from what Cadet brought up...

> even wearing a good mask I have a hard time breathing.

What do you define as a 'good' mask? Are you referring to a respirator with VOC rated filters? Or a cheap paper dust mask? Something in between?

Or even a half-mask version of that like the 3m 6100-7100 series.

 

[LanternFox]

To continue on from what Cadet brought up...

> even wearing a good mask I have a hard time breathing.

What do you define as a 'good' mask? Are you referring to a respirator with VOC rated filters? Or a cheap paper dust mask? Something in between?

View attachment 348130

I sometimes hear people use the word "good mask". I have no idea what a good mask is to be honest. I just forgot to add the " " to the words.

 

[LanternFox]

You mention Asthma and having a hard time breathing, so, just understand that 3D printing will require the use of a mask just as much, or more so than an EVA foam costume. You are going to have to smooth, sand, and finish a 3D print, and all the popular methods of doing that, resin, bondo/filer putty, use of orbital and palm sanders, all of which are further detailed in the many tutorials and build threads already linked to you by Clint, are going to require you to use a mask due to either fumes or particulates.

So I'm guessing stick to EVA foam is my best bet. I'm guessing. If so, I think I can work something and I have seen the comment Clint has posted on masks on here.

 

[Serunox]

Regarding a printer, any size will do really, only thing with smaller ones is you'll have to split the models into smaller parts and then join them together. This can aslo cause issues if you have asthma so keep it in mind. My print bed size is 250*250 mm, I have to split almost all files like the helmet in my profile pic was 8 parts and then plastic welded with filament on the inside. This will cuase vapors so careful with that. I've seen alot of posts saying aim for the 300*300 plus print bed sizes like the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and Plus for example to require less splitting.

I'm happy with my printer's size as majority of stuff I print is smaller anyways.

Hope this helps.