Skullcandy Girl
Well-Known Member
Over in the noob forum, Spartan-267 found this nifty non toxic resin called "Aqua Resin" While Sean Bradley has done a great job asking questions and a few others are in the early stages of testing this product and gathering information, this is looking VERY VERY promising for those of us who live in big cities in apartments with no garages or backyards, and to our younger forgers who's parents aren't keen on "toxic" stuff.
Here is Aqua Resin's site:
http://www.aquaresin.com/
Here is a pic of the stuff in the starter kit (minus the Bucket and Krylon paint). Sorry if the pic is grainy, I'm at work and I used me camera phone
Here's a list of what you may need to start, I'm pretty sure since I'm inexperienced, I may have left out some stuff. Last time I worked with resins and mold stuff I was in college... 5 years ago...
The kit was $15.00 and it comes with the following:
8oz. Aqua Resin "L" - Liquid Component
6oz. Aqua Resin "S3" - Powder Component
AQG 0.5 - 1/2 Fiberglass Reinforcement strands
AQG 3.5-1 3-1/2 Fiberglass Reinforcement Strands
AQG-FCV Surfacing Veil
10mil FF - 30mil-50 mil (I'm guessing these are different thicknesses)
WEAR GLOVES AND LONG SLEEVES and SOME FORM OF EYE PROTECTION!! When handling the powder, AT THE LEAST, WEAR A DUST MASK! When sanding, do it OUTSIDE and WEAR a Mask & Eye Protection.
Waterproof Sealer:
Krylon Acrylic Spray Paint in Crystal Clear with a Satin Finish (finish may not matter, but it's what was recommended)
You will need to SEAL your pepakura before adding ANY resin. It is water based, so it WILL warp and deform your cardstock! I will try to have pics of what happens when you do and don't seal it this weekend. As far as I can tell, and since this is my forst time using any kind of resin, you SHOULD leave supports in the pep files (if they were designed with them) I'm not sure how heavy the wet resin will be and the Sealer won't add much if any reinforcement.
Also, you will NEED to use the Spray Paint outside or a well ventilated spot! Don't even try spray indoors in any shape or fashion, I was outside and I caught a whiff and I got a tiny bit woozy, so ignore anything dumb I said about spraying in front of an open window, college dorm tricks are dumb XD
Aqua resin Mix:
While going over the instructions and "what is this stuff" that came with the kit, I read that depending on the ratio that you mix, which can be measure by weight or volume (which is 1:2, for every 1 component of liquid you need 2 of the powder). I'll re-read it to make sure. Also the curing time is said to be anywhere from 30minutes-100minutes. So if you choose to add more and more of the powder, you can end up with something comparible to Bondo (in theory, this still needs to be tested). And it CAN BE SANDED! Another plus is it can be cleaned right up with water. And it is NOT flammable.
Fiberglass:
They also give you different types of fiberglass. One is the seperate chopped strands which is recommended to make it EXTRA strong. The other "veil" like material will give you some reinforcement, but it's not as strong as th chopped up strands, but you can use the two together.
Brushes
Aqua resin recommends using "chip" brushes, which I believe means the bristles are stiff, I could be wrong though XP These seem to be pretty cheap, and I bought 3 different sizes. They were the smaller sizes since a lot of the armor has small nooks and crannies.
A Mixing Bucket
From working with casting and resins in college, we always need a good kinda wide bucket to mix stuff in. I guess a good way to look at it is like this; you can't mix batter so well in a drinking glass. I think the bucket I got is a quart, maybe 2. I'm also not sure if you'll need to coat your bucket with tin foil prior to mixing, it may be a good idea since any left over residue could mess up a new batch of aqua resin.
Spatula or mixing thingie:
I bought a mixing spatula since I'm not sure how wood and Aqua resin will react, I dunno if the resin will soak into the wood, so maybe something plastic or metal would work best.
Measuring cups or some kind of scoop:
Aqua resin seems to not have to be dead on balls accurate when it comes to mixing, you can mix by volume or weight. For me, since I can get carried away and since I'm new, I went to Duane Reade (a drug store) and bought a plastic measuring cup and a little metal Scooper.
This is all I could think of up to this point, if anyone knows of anything else, let me know
Here is a NYC based store that sells Aqua resin, they are very nice and helpful:
www.sculpt.com
The Compleat Sculptor
90 Vandam Street
New York, NY 10013
tel: 212.243.6074
tcs@sculpt.com
So a HUGE thanks to Spartan-267 for thinking of this and doing some research! I'm not as experienced as Sean and some of our other senior forgers, and we are still in the Early stages of research and more information / testing will be added once we get results.
*edit* hahah I just noticed Aqua-Resin and Spartan-267 rhymes HAHAH!
Here is Aqua Resin's site:
http://www.aquaresin.com/
Here is a pic of the stuff in the starter kit (minus the Bucket and Krylon paint). Sorry if the pic is grainy, I'm at work and I used me camera phone
Here's a list of what you may need to start, I'm pretty sure since I'm inexperienced, I may have left out some stuff. Last time I worked with resins and mold stuff I was in college... 5 years ago...
The kit was $15.00 and it comes with the following:
8oz. Aqua Resin "L" - Liquid Component
6oz. Aqua Resin "S3" - Powder Component
AQG 0.5 - 1/2 Fiberglass Reinforcement strands
AQG 3.5-1 3-1/2 Fiberglass Reinforcement Strands
AQG-FCV Surfacing Veil
10mil FF - 30mil-50 mil (I'm guessing these are different thicknesses)
WEAR GLOVES AND LONG SLEEVES and SOME FORM OF EYE PROTECTION!! When handling the powder, AT THE LEAST, WEAR A DUST MASK! When sanding, do it OUTSIDE and WEAR a Mask & Eye Protection.
Waterproof Sealer:
Krylon Acrylic Spray Paint in Crystal Clear with a Satin Finish (finish may not matter, but it's what was recommended)
You will need to SEAL your pepakura before adding ANY resin. It is water based, so it WILL warp and deform your cardstock! I will try to have pics of what happens when you do and don't seal it this weekend. As far as I can tell, and since this is my forst time using any kind of resin, you SHOULD leave supports in the pep files (if they were designed with them) I'm not sure how heavy the wet resin will be and the Sealer won't add much if any reinforcement.
Also, you will NEED to use the Spray Paint outside or a well ventilated spot! Don't even try spray indoors in any shape or fashion, I was outside and I caught a whiff and I got a tiny bit woozy, so ignore anything dumb I said about spraying in front of an open window, college dorm tricks are dumb XD
Aqua resin Mix:
While going over the instructions and "what is this stuff" that came with the kit, I read that depending on the ratio that you mix, which can be measure by weight or volume (which is 1:2, for every 1 component of liquid you need 2 of the powder). I'll re-read it to make sure. Also the curing time is said to be anywhere from 30minutes-100minutes. So if you choose to add more and more of the powder, you can end up with something comparible to Bondo (in theory, this still needs to be tested). And it CAN BE SANDED! Another plus is it can be cleaned right up with water. And it is NOT flammable.
Fiberglass:
They also give you different types of fiberglass. One is the seperate chopped strands which is recommended to make it EXTRA strong. The other "veil" like material will give you some reinforcement, but it's not as strong as th chopped up strands, but you can use the two together.
Brushes
Aqua resin recommends using "chip" brushes, which I believe means the bristles are stiff, I could be wrong though XP These seem to be pretty cheap, and I bought 3 different sizes. They were the smaller sizes since a lot of the armor has small nooks and crannies.
A Mixing Bucket
From working with casting and resins in college, we always need a good kinda wide bucket to mix stuff in. I guess a good way to look at it is like this; you can't mix batter so well in a drinking glass. I think the bucket I got is a quart, maybe 2. I'm also not sure if you'll need to coat your bucket with tin foil prior to mixing, it may be a good idea since any left over residue could mess up a new batch of aqua resin.
Spatula or mixing thingie:
I bought a mixing spatula since I'm not sure how wood and Aqua resin will react, I dunno if the resin will soak into the wood, so maybe something plastic or metal would work best.
Measuring cups or some kind of scoop:
Aqua resin seems to not have to be dead on balls accurate when it comes to mixing, you can mix by volume or weight. For me, since I can get carried away and since I'm new, I went to Duane Reade (a drug store) and bought a plastic measuring cup and a little metal Scooper.
This is all I could think of up to this point, if anyone knows of anything else, let me know
Here is a NYC based store that sells Aqua resin, they are very nice and helpful:
www.sculpt.com
The Compleat Sculptor
90 Vandam Street
New York, NY 10013
tel: 212.243.6074
tcs@sculpt.com
So a HUGE thanks to Spartan-267 for thinking of this and doing some research! I'm not as experienced as Sean and some of our other senior forgers, and we are still in the Early stages of research and more information / testing will be added once we get results.
*edit* hahah I just noticed Aqua-Resin and Spartan-267 rhymes HAHAH!