Aztlan's Halo 4 Rogue + Binary Rifle + M6H + Exo-suit WIP, PIC HEAVY!

[Mstruvmgc]

GO MEEEEE!!!!!!

ok so im not sure i understand everything here, and go you by being so awesome you can just write this out and understand it lol, but judging by your diagram here im guessing that when you press the trigger the Cam spins and pulls down the needle 5/8 of an inch into the gun correct?
How is it going to release the needle for the reload?
very awesome idea by the way

 

[SIKAXIS]

This build looks so sick ! I am also in the beginning stages of building your rogue helmet. I tried printing it once, but after building the visor portion out of paper I saw that it was going to be way to small for my face. I was wondering what scale you used on the helmet (if you remember that is). The scaling on this one seems a bit different than on other helmets I've worked on, that's why I'm asking.

 

[mvozzy]

I would also like to know how you scaled the chest as well, and as for the helmet, once you get past the visor its not as small as you think

 

[EVAkura]

ok so im not sure i understand everything here, and go you by being so awesome you can just write this out and understand it lol, but judging by your diagram here im guessing that when you press the trigger the Cam spins and pulls down the needle 5/8 of an inch into the gun correct?
How is it going to release the needle for the reload?
very awesome idea by the way

Okay, first off, I just realized that the cam and locking cam are backwards in this diagram :eek LOL, but yes, you got the idea. The only difference is that the travel will be 1-5/8" inch per trigger pull. Reason being is that the needles are 5 inches long (1/4" of the base of the spike will be recessed in the tube to help add stability) and I want them to be "spent" in three pulls. This will put the tip at 1/8" below the surface after the three pulls. At that point in time, the next trigger pull's current will be redirected to the next pair of spikes (one on each side).

So, to answer your question... There will be a mechanism (spring loaded arm) that stops and locks the locking cam from moving backwards. Kudus to you for seeing that part, and recognizing that would be an issue when it comes time to reload since I didn't even put that in the drawing! Like I stated before, the needles will drop down two at a time, until "spent". Starting from the back and outside, then moving to the inside, then to the middle outside, etc. I needed to make sure that the weapon could be reloaded at any point in time during this sequence. So, what will happen is, when the scope is tilted upwards to reload, this will pull all the needles into the "spent" position, regardless of their current position. Then, as the scope is returning back to its seated position, a mechanical catch will pull the spring loaded locking cam arms back to allow free movement in the reverse direction... thus allowing all the spikes to return to the fully loaded position.

Needless to say, some custom CNC milling will have to be done for a good portion of this, but I have some great leads on this

This build looks so sick ! I am also in the beginning stages of building your rogue helmet. I tried printing it once, but after building the visor portion out of paper I saw that it was going to be way to small for my face. I was wondering what scale you used on the helmet (if you remember that is). The scaling on this one seems a bit different than on other helmets I've worked on, that's why I'm asking.

Thanks! I built the helmet at the default size. I have a 23 1/2" hat size for reference. This is an odd shaped helmet for sure, and the bottom section has to separate in order to get your head in. Also, if I were to do this again, I would probably add 5% to the size as it is quite snug around my temples.

I would also like to know how you scaled the chest as well, and as for the helmet, once you get past the visor its not as small as you think

As with the helmet, all my parts I built are at Aztlan's default size.

 

[EVAkura]

STAGE 1: COMPLETE!!!!

Fingers are SO sore from prying, tearing, tweezing, you name it, to get that HDF board broken up and out of there. It did not help that the hot glue fought me and the that the board had a tougher surface (kind of like a laminate) that I had to break.

BUT, the mold is completed (this stage that is!). I created it to be seamless, so now I need to make 5 more of these. The good thing about this next stage is that it will be MUCH easier as I will not have to deal with the bolts, measurements, or the HDF. I will simply make a silicone cast of this one, them replicate it using that (what would now be considered a mold) silicone piece.

So far, I figure I have around 35 hours into this, and $45. I should be able to get to my goal of a 2'X2' master mold for just under $100.

Anyways, here it is!



And more importantly, a close-up (it still needs a thorough cleaning)

 

[King of Gondor12]

Looks good mate, can't wait to see it in action. Keep up the awesome work!

 

[Redshirt]

Okay, first off, I just realized that the cam and locking cam are backwards in this diagram :eek LOL, but yes, you got the idea. The only difference is that the travel will be 1-5/8" inch per trigger pull. Reason being is that the needles are 5 inches long (1/4" of the base of the spike will be recessed in the tube to help add stability) and I want them to be "spent" in three pulls. This will put the tip at 1/8" below the surface after the three pulls. At that point in time, the next trigger pull's current will be redirected to the next pair of spikes (one on each side).

So, to answer your question... There will be a mechanism (spring loaded arm) that stops and locks the locking cam from moving backwards. Kudus to you for seeing that part, and recognizing that would be an issue when it comes time to reload since I didn't even put that in the drawing! Like I stated before, the needles will drop down two at a time, until "spent". Starting from the back and outside, then moving to the inside, then to the middle outside, etc. I needed to make sure that the weapon could be reloaded at any point in time during this sequence. So, what will happen is, when the scope is tilted upwards to reload, this will pull all the needles into the "spent" position, regardless of their current position. Then, as the scope is returning back to its seated position, a mechanical catch will pull the spring loaded locking cam arms back to allow free movement in the reverse direction... thus allowing all the spikes to return to the fully loaded position.

Needless to say, some custom CNC milling will have to be done for a good portion of this, but I have some great leads on this

Wow, this is very reminiscent of the painful brain work that went into my last animation project. Since mine was an airsoft project, I started with a powerful battery (11.1V 2200 MaH) and stepped it down to 5V using a RC plane battery eliminator circuit (BEC) about 25 bucks by Castle Creations.
http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Bec-Switching-Regulator/dp/B000MXAR12/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403099951&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+creations+bec
This let me run circuit boards, LEDs, drive relays, timers, and 2 RC servos at the same time. I'd consider this route and use stock or modified RC servos and the wide array of available arms and linkages to run this. I used a combo of cutout switches and DPDTs to control the shroud retraction. Originally, the servo was stripped of electronics and the switching controlled the motor direct. This eventually stripped the motor due to it still getting power when the movement hit the limit. In the end, I had the switches control the logic and used cheap Chinese servo testers to tell the servo what I wanted.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Tester-Consistency-Master-Checker/dp/B008MVCPQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403100059&sr=8-1&keywords=servo+tester
One circuit had a tester sending a close signal, one circuit had a tester sending an open signal. You could select between circuits with fully loaded, 1 shot, 2 shot and 3 shots fired signals and select which servo gets what signal. Lifting the scope would send the 3 shot signal followed by the loaded signal to all servos when you closed the scope. Done. Using the servos would eliminate the locking cam and springs under the needles. This work happened on page 43 of my build. Let me know if it looks promising. I didn't post my revised circuit drawings for using the servo testers, but I can PM it if this looks viable for you.

Redshirt

 

[Mstruvmgc]

lol i feel all proud that i cought that.
so much info i love it. the build is looking great still. keep up the good work

 

[EVAkura]

Wow, this is very reminiscent of the painful brain work that went into my last animation project. Since mine was an airsoft project, I started with a powerful battery (11.1V 2200 MaH) and stepped it down to 5V using a RC plane battery eliminator circuit (BEC) about 25 bucks by Castle Creations.
http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Bec-Switching-Regulator/dp/B000MXAR12/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403099951&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+creations+bec
This let me run circuit boards, LEDs, drive relays, timers, and 2 RC servos at the same time. I'd consider this route and use stock or modified RC servos and the wide array of available arms and linkages to run this. I used a combo of cutout switches and DPDTs to control the shroud retraction. Originally, the servo was stripped of electronics and the switching controlled the motor direct. This eventually stripped the motor due to it still getting power when the movement hit the limit. In the end, I had the switches control the logic and used cheap Chinese servo testers to tell the servo what I wanted.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Tester-Consistency-Master-Checker/dp/B008MVCPQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403100059&sr=8-1&keywords=servo+tester
One circuit had a tester sending a close signal, one circuit had a tester sending an open signal. You could select between circuits with fully loaded, 1 shot, 2 shot and 3 shots fired signals and select which servo gets what signal. Lifting the scope would send the 3 shot signal followed by the loaded signal to all servos when you closed the scope. Done. Using the servos would eliminate the locking cam and springs under the needles. This work happened on page 43 of my build. Let me know if it looks promising. I didn't post my revised circuit drawings for using the servo testers, but I can PM it if this looks viable for you.

Redshirt

I am going to have to take some time and digest what you just described My first instinct is to say, "No, I am doing it my way!", but I am learning to give other's ideas serious consideration (especially ones that have proven themselves through first hand experience).

Thank you for the information

 

[Redshirt]

I know what you mean about doing it your way. In reality though, I can only claim to be the focal point of 'my' plan. My final electronics package was the result of reviews and suggestions by at least five different people with three more contributing on the mechanisms driven by the electronics. In the end, I was standing on the shoulders of giants.

RC servos work by interpreting a pulse. How far along the servo's path of travel it moves depends on the length of pulse. I didn't have the time or patience to develop an aurdino package to do that. I just bought two testers, stripped off the knobs and packaging, set the potentiometers on each to get the result I wanted and then switched between which one was sending a signal to my servo. Not elegant, but simple.

Redshirt

 

[FlyinPhil]

Awesome work, as always! Your mold looks sweet, and your mechanism for the needle rifle looks very intriguing. My only concern is how stable the needles will be with only 1/4" recessed into the gun when they are in the "fully loaded" position. It would be devastating to have one damaged by getting snagged or caught on something!

 

[EVAkura]

Awesome work, as always! Your mold looks sweet, and your mechanism for the needle rifle looks very intriguing. My only concern is how stable the needles will be with only 1/4" recessed into the gun when they are in the "fully loaded" position. It would be devastating to have one damaged by getting snagged or caught on something!

I didn't go into detail on that part, but I have thought that through The base of the needle will be secured to another piece of molded rondo which will have a hold in the center (for the LED wire) and will be fitted to the tube. This will alleviate any movement of the needle when it is fully exposed (minus the 1/4"). Good catch btw!

Also, I updated the first page, but figured I would do it here as well. I have created video #7 in my series of instructional videos for EVA foam. This one is about cutting techniques and blade use.

 

[NoMaybeYes]

One thing ive wondered about your molds out of Rondo is how fragile they are. Because Rondo isnt the strongest material and suck but have you done any kind of stress testing?

 

[EVAkura]

One thing ive wondered about your molds out of Rondo is how fragile they are. Because Rondo isnt the strongest material and suck but have you done any kind of stress testing?

Since I go with a 25% Bondo and 75% Resin mix, it is not too fragile at all. Each one of those bolts I took out required quite a bit of tugging, rocking back-and-forth, and pulling. Not a single one of those really thin pieces in between the bolts broke. Also, it has a bit of warp to the whole thing. I would feel quite comfortable with applying liquid nails to the back, gluing it to a piece of board, and clamping it down to get rid of that warp. It will break if too much stress is applied, but it takes quite a bit.

 

[King of Gondor12]

Any new progress EVA? Love what you are doing and I would hate to see it get benched

 

[EVAkura]

Any new progress EVA? Love what you are doing and I would hate to see it get benched

Sorry about that! I have been making tutorials for EVA foam Reach parts (so far, forearm and bicep) as well as one for the H4 Master Chief bicep and shoulder (created a new template for the shoulder).... AND made a tutorial for a new process I came up with for hardening EVA that negates the need for PVA and Plasti-dip! All can be found over at the Creation Discussion section of the forums here (since I can't create new threads here anymore!).

I have a job coming up, but it will not take all my time, so I will be getting back to the Rogue soon. I will continue to work on the Reach parts as well, especially on bad weather days. Man, I have a lot of projects going!

 

[AlphaPrym]

EVAkura, Are there pep files for the rest of the Rogue armor? I've been looking all over the place and as it looks, alot of the Spartans share different armor parts,( gauntlets,shins,boots, etc.) but as I can see Rogue has his own parts..

 

[EVAkura]

EVAkura, Are there pep files for the rest of the Rogue armor? I've been looking all over the place and as it looks, alot of the Spartans share different armor parts,( gauntlets,shins,boots, etc.) but as I can see Rogue has his own parts..

I just double checked (in game) and there is not a specific set of armor dedicated to the Rogue. I think the reference photo you are referring to is the one where he is wearing the Twin plated forearms, and Outer plated legs.

I am not sure if they have pep files for those options. There are a bunch of variations as choices. If you can post the image you are referring to, I can confirm what armor he is wearing

 

[EVAkura]

Just a quick update to what I have been working on.

Full detailed step-by-step tutorials for Foam Halo Reach bicep and forearm


A new paint prep technique for EVA Foam builds (negates the need for PVA and Plastidip)

Full detailed step-by-step tutorial for Foam H4 Master Chief bicep and shoulder armor.





The H4 MC shoulder armor template is all new, fits on one page, and was created by yours truly!

 

[Lonewolf260]

MAN YOU ARE WAY TOO GOOD AT THIS! made your H4 MC shoulder, looks like im doin the reach forearm and bicep! love it man

-Ian