Constructing marine armor

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royalpain88

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Hello fellow Halo fans. Allow me to explain myself here. After getting into Halo thanks to Red vs. Blue and then Halo: Legends, I really want to build my own UNSC marine armor. I feel confident that I can do it. Just need super glue and cardboard paper as I call it. I am familiar with the various links but I seem to have a slight issue.
I have a mac and it seems to not recognize the files. I wish to have this thread follow my progress but due to a lack of funds and space, it will take me a long time before I do start construction. So any hints, tips both electronically and quote physically for the armor would be greatly helpful.
 
You can also ask for someone to convert the .pdo (pepakura) files into .pdf Adobe Acrobat files then print them out from an Apple computer. Just make sure that they are scaled correctly to your measurements first before the .pdf conversion.
 
I think I can do that but for scaling, is that going to be trial and error? Like print out a part, build and see if it fits or not?
 
Due to budget constraints, the software issues will not be solved and therefore I can't continue anymore with the build. Darn. Unless someone out there can offer their help.
 
Thanks to Mr. Weeds (real name unknown to me), it's high time I start thinking of construction. I have, again thanks to Mr. Weeds, shoulder and knee armor plans. I do not have pepakura since I am a mac user so progress will be slower than a snail's pace. I understand the need for a resin but the fiberglass material that goes inside, what's that for and are there substitutes?
 
I get the sense I'm confusing the heck out of people here with my questioning. I have seen various tips and came across something called a fiberglass sheet but I never heard of this stuff. WHere can I get this material?

As far as a list of materials go, I say I am going to need enough 2 packs of 110 pd 'cardboard' paper, fiberglass resin, bondo, super glue, spot putty, various grits of sandpaper, primer, olive spray, metallic silver stretchable straps, plastic buckles as well as a list of other items to customize my armor.
 
Ah, Weeds would be Jeff. Great guy!
Fiberglass "sheet" (more often called mat) is found at any store with an automotive section, such as wal-mart. you'll need that on top of the list you've assembled. You've got it down pretty good, I'd recommend you test out the process on something small (like a handplate) so you're famill,iar with everything before diving in all the way. But good luck, and hope everything works out for ya!
 
As far as a list of materials go, I say I am going to need enough 2 packs of 110 pd 'cardboard' paper, fiberglass resin, bondo, super glue, spot putty, various grits of sandpaper, primer, olive spray, metallic silver stretchable straps, plastic buckles as well as a list of other items to customize my armor.

You haven't listed a single piece of safety equipment.
 
All of the pieces are out the door in .pdf. The project is an H3 Marine. Anything except helmet or chest would be a fine start I would think.

As mentioned above, you MUST have the proper safety equipment. This is not negotiable!

There is also the reading list http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30542-NOOB-reading-list?highlight=noob+reading+list read those items too and you'll be ready to go. As has been said, it'll be a little slow since finding pieces is a treasure hunt when you don't have pepakura Designer or Viewer for reference. But the marine isn't all that complicated.

Have fun.
 
I live in a mobile home so most of the work will be done out doors. I have been around automotive almost my entire life so I am aware of the dangers of half of the chemicals I will need. Especially the fiberglass resin. Unfortunately, I cannot see spending money for a respirator I may need for a short while and not need it again and I know no one has one around here. But since I will be out doors, I should be okay but JUST! The wind blowing at me could harm me so I will have to be aware of that. The dangers of super glue and sprays are obvious to me as a model railroader and miniature wargamer for nearly half of my life.
With me being outdoors and being cautious of the wind should be fine plus breathing slow. I am sorry Jeff but that is all I can do. I know those dust masks won't help. As for eye protection, my glasses would be only good at direct impacts, not from side impact but I do have safety glasses that I used when shooting so that should be good plus for the build I need a pair of orange ones anyway so I should be fine. What I don't know is the risk of skin contact when using fiberglass resin. Gloves I have since my mom and sister work in the medical community. I also forgot a few things on my list of materials.

disposable brushes
orange safety glasses
gloves
popsicle sticks
disposable measuring cups
 
I am aware of the dangers of half of the chemicals I will need.

You need to know the possible dangers of all the chemicals you use, not just half of them. What you're doing is careless, to put it mildly.

Unfortunately, I cannot see spending money for a respirator I may need for a short while
[...]
With me being outdoors and being cautious of the wind should be fine plus breathing slow.
[...]
As for eye protection, my glasses would be only good at direct impacts, not from side impact but I do have safety glasses that I used when shooting so that should be good plus for the build I need a pair of orange ones anyway so I should be fine.

You will need that respirator for practically every step of the way (resining, glassing, bondoing, sanding, painting, even for glueing if you don't like superglue fumes). I don't know about you, but I think that's a good investment (and once you try sanding without it, you will, too - believe me!).
Breathing slowly won't do squat unless you don't breathe at all, and the wind can quickly turn into a disadvantage if it blows all the fumes right into your face. Sure, they do dissipate a lot faster outside, but you are going to be hanging your nose right over those models, and that means you will breathe a lot of that stuff, regardless of the wind direction.

If by "my glasses" you mean corrective ones: They don't do anything. Spills get around them in an instant, and impacts (by that I mean flying objects, stuff like a broken off Dremel accessory etc.) will most likely at least scratch them, glass-lenses might even shatter. And I'm honestly not sure how well they react to resin. Either way, replacing your glasses is a lot more expensive than spending five bucks on a really decent pair of safety glasses.

The shooting glasses are probably supposed to protect against impacts (again: impacts are not spills), but the orange colour might turn out as a disadvantage while resining.

What I don't know is the risk of skin contact when using fiberglass resin. Gloves I have since my mom and sister work in the medical community. I also forgot a few things on my list of materials.

In light of your attitude I'd love to say that touching polyester resin is an instant ticket to the cemetery, but luckily that's not the case. Breathing the fumes is a lot more hazardous, in fact.
Still, the resin contains large amounts of styrene and many glove materials absolutely don't like that. I don't know what technique you want to use for glassing, but if you have to stick your hands into the resin in the process, you will definitely need a lot more than examination gloves, since these are going to be permeated in minutes.
 
Well, I am probably a few months away from construction due to weather and lack of materials so now is a good time to learn all about the hazards. I reconsider the use and purchase of a respirator but I have been around some pretty harsh stuff in the past but I got out of the area quickly. I am not aware still the hazards of skin contact of fiberglass resin. I have been known to be a bit clumsy and it is harmful, what approaches should I take. I remember my dad has the goggle type safety glasses.
The orange safeties is for the build. The halo marine helmet has at times orange visors so those are for that.
I do know the hazards of sanding being around automotive. They do produce a lot of dust but a wet sanding should cut that down a lot. Why I said I need various sand papers. I do wish to know just how bad is it being around fiberglass resin when mixing? It is out of curiosity and to enforce the idea of WHY I need a respirator. Maybe it may come in handy whenever I do something involving automotive.
And I am not a jerk. I just don't talk to people much.
 
I do wish to know just how bad is it being around fiberglass resin when mixing? It is out of curiosity and to enforce the idea of WHY I need a respirator. Maybe it may come in handy whenever I do something involving automotive.
And I am not a jerk. I just don't talk to people much.

A few years ago a forum member went to the hospital after the fibreglassing portion of his build. After being examined they discovered that his lungs were so damaged from resin fumes that they were like leather. When I say "Like leather" I mean that very literally. He then spent a few weeks, possibly months, recovering in a lot of pain.

He was wearing a respirator that malfunctioned.

I can not stress enough the importance of a GOOD respirator. You're looking for a NIOSH approved P100 rated respirator, which filters particulates and vapors (both organic and synthetic).

Without one you will either become extremely sick or you will die.

I'm not trying to be mean, nor do I think you're a jerk, but you need to take people more seriously when they try to give you safety assistance, because we actually know a few things and, believe it or not, we don't want you disabled for the rest of your life. So spend the 30 - 80 dollars on a good respirator and try to take our advice with a wee bit more gratitude lady, cuz we just want you to have the most success with your build while staying safe.

Aight? :)
 
So spend the 30 - 80 dollars on a good respirator and try to take our advice with a wee bit more gratitude lady, cuz we just want you to have the most success with your build while staying safe.

Aight? :)

Sorry for the double post (edit option doesn't work) but I meant LADDIE. Scottish accent was the intention. My apologies.
 
Wow. I hope he is alright then. Now I REALLY know to get a good one. No one said that building armor could be hazardous. Thank you for that. It is little reminders that separates those who just want one just to have one and those that are wiling to risk it to have one. And I am a 22 year old male. Unless my profile is wrong. But seriously, thanks for the heads up and the eye opener.
 
I am not aware still the hazards of skin contact of fiberglass resin. I have been known to be a bit clumsy and it is harmful, what approaches should I take.
[...]
It is out of curiosity and to enforce the idea of WHY I need a respirator.
[...]
And I am not a jerk. I just don't talk to people much.

Fist of all: Nobody said you're a jerk.

You may want to have a look at the MSDS for 3M's Bondo Fibreglass Resin.
Let me quote a few health effects from that document (I strongly suggest you read the whole thing though):
For Skin contact:
Moderate Skin Irritation: Signs/symptoms may include localized redness, swelling, itching, and dryness.


For breathing the fumes:
Respiratory Tract Irritation: Signs/symptoms may include cough, sneezing, nasal discharge, headache, hoarseness, and nose and
throat pain.
May be absorbed following inhalation and cause target organ effects.


These "target organ effects" are:
Central Nervous System (CNS) Depression: Signs/symptoms may include headache, dizziness, drowsiness, incoordination, nausea,slowed reaction time, slurred speech, giddiness, and unconsciousness.
Auditory Effects: Signs/symptoms may include hearing impairment, balance dysfunction and ringing in the ears.
Liver Effects: Signs/symptoms may include loss of appetite, weight loss, fatigue, weakness, abdominal tenderness and jaundice.
Prolonged or repeated exposure may cause:
Neurological Effects: Signs/symptoms may include personality changes, lack of coordination, sensory loss, tingling or numbness of the extremities, weakness, tremors, and/or changes in blood pressure and heart rate.
Ocular Effects: Signs/symptoms may include blurred or significantly impaired vision.
Immunological Effects: Signs/symptoms may include alterations in the number of circulating immune cells, allergic skin and/or respiratory reaction, and changes in immune function.


Also noteworthy:
Contains a chemical or chemicals which can cause cancer.
Or in short: Slightly nasty after touching, possibly very nasty after breathing.

For definite skin protection, you will need heavy, styrene-resistant chemical gloves. Styrene is a very aggressive solvent, and therefore the number of choices is somewhat limited here. Just to give you an overview, you can have a look at this table. It covers only the products of this particular manufacturer, but if you study the different products that are listed, you will notice that even those with the shortest breakthrough time are a lot thicker than examination gloves (none of these are listed). The latter will protect you against nothing but small spills, so you can only use them if you're confident that you won't be touching the resin. Here are a few pictures I've taken a few weeks back, just to give you a rough idea of the difference between a chemical glove and a examination gloves. The former (green) are really heavy.

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Don't get too crazy about gloves before you have a respirator though, a respirator is a LOT more imporant than gloves when working with polyester resin. I'm not an expert on US standards, so I won't name any, but the filters you need are organic vapour filters. Low to medium adsorption capacity should be acceptable for working outside, but if you plan on going inside, you should choose the highest capacity you can get. Get the best particle filters as well, there isn't too much of a price difference here. Remember to replace filters that are used (i.e. when you can smell the styrene through them, or when particles have blocked them and you can't breathe anymore).
3M makes face masks that allow you to plug particle filters on top of the vapour flter cartridges or (when you're really just sanding wood or so) allow you to use particle-only filters instead of the cartridges. Those masks are a good choice and should be available for a good price on ebay. Below is a picture of what they look like, the filter cartridges have a European label, so yours will probably have a different one (black, I think, but I'm not sure):

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Also note that different types of resin will have different effects and require different safety preacutions, so switching products may change, but will not necessarily reduce the health risks.


Sorry for the double post (edit option doesn't work) but I meant LADDIE. Scottish accent was the intention. My apologies.

You need to "go advanced" to edit stuff. ...But that was definitely a good one :)

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th_29102010298.jpg


th_21092010108.jpg
 
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And I must apologize for not reading entirely your message. That's why us former Naval Sea Cadets recall all gentlemen of respect, age, position or people we are not entirely friends with or strangers as sir. So I apologize sir.
 
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