Duke's Custom Reach Suit Pep +photos!! *COMPLETE*

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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Impressive, clean workmanship. This looks to be shaping up to be a very detailed, professional-grade piece.

I recall seeing a Brute Shot done some years back, but they're very rare to come across and they tend to be obscured by the more popular UNSC weapons, which are easier to craft. It's certainly nice to see a change.
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Nice, and clean pep work! Pepping heavily detailed weapons is no easy task!
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Thanks Chernobyl and SavedbyGraceG12 that really means a lot. Easier is starting to sound a lot better.. :/ Oh, well, I'll be happy again once I have this thing in my hands.

But if others want to attempt this madness I'm reposting my tips on assembling pepakura below.

Tips on assembling Pepakura:

1st (and foremost) Take your time! If you rush this you'll either throw away your project or you'll spend more time trying to fix it.
2nd Develop a system, or systems. This not only will speed you up, but will make you less prone to making mistakes and missing things.
----- There are several steps to assembling a pepakura: cutting, scoring, folding and gluing. First is to figure out the order you would like to do those things in. Next I'll give you tips on each of them in the order I like to use.

Score-
- I like to score every printed pieces before cutting them out, this makes it easier to hold them in place. Also by doing all of them first, I don't have to switch between scoring and cutting. Saves time.
-Make sure your lines are straight! If you find scoring was crooked or wavy, score it again and try to keep it straight! Most importantly the beginning and the end of the score need to be dead on the line. Use a ruler if necessary.
-Use a rigid, but not overly hard surface for support. I find that if I use metal or wood I tend to have a harder time. Whereas, using a self healing cutting board it lets me draw the score line smoothly.
-Remember to have a system! Mine is blue for mountain folds and the back of the Xacto knife for the valley folds. (some people use red for valley, but I'm cheap!)

Cut-

-In order not to miss cutting a line and then pulling the piece out only to rip it... make a system.
My system is:
1. Cut all angles of the valley-fold tabs. (quick cuts here are fine.) While they are still on the page I fold the valley folds up. Being on the page there is a lot more support and making them much easier to fold. See picture below.
2. Cut the rest of the tabs. (Tabs are not critical so you can cut them fast and not worry if you're getting on the line or not)
3. Cut all of the non-tab edges. (These lines are very critical, if you start to veer just make sure you get back to the line before the edge runs out. You're going to be using the corners of this edge and the corners of the folded tab to line up the piece for gluing.)
-Before cutting a piece out I make sure it is the piece I want. Check the computer model. Make sure you have the right piece and you know the orientation.
-Sometimes I write on the back of it with little notes, like an arrow for orientation or L for left side.
-Don't get too far ahead of yourself. Cut a few pieces out then glue them. Otherwise, you risk getting lost and overwhelmed.
-If you're getting frayed edges on your cuts it's time to replace the blade. Don't cut yourself!

Fold-
-It may seem easy, but there is a little to it.
-You're working with paper, don't force it. If you warp the piece, try to straighten it out by folding along the edge again like an envelope.

If you're having trouble making the folds here's a couple extra tips:
1. There are times when folds are parallel and very close together and can be difficult with larger fingers like mine. I’ve learned to use a straight edge. In this picture the piece is so small that I had to use a razor blade as a backer, but normally I just use a metal ruler in the same fashion. Brace the back of the fold with a hard straight edge and then push the fold over.
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2. Before you cut the piece out you can actually do some folding. This will help greatly if the pieces are small and difficult to work with. What I do now is prior to cutting any piece and after I've scored everything, I go through and cut the tab edges of every Valley fold and fold them up while still on the paper. This has sped up my pepping tremendously.
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Glue-
-Once you know exactly what piece you need and where it goes get the hot glue gun ready. You can use other types of glue, but I find that hot glue works really well, gives it a little strength, fast drying and can be reheated to undo any mistakes.
-Start with the edge that is visually most important (generally the closest to the front). The first tab is most important so take your time.. Use a little bit of glue along the tab and line up the corners of the edge with the tab to the corresponding edge without a tab and press them together. The hot glue tends to want to slip so you have a few seconds to make sure they are lined up. *Remember, line up the edges or ends of the tab, not the numbers.
-When gluing a long strip to something, try starting in the middle. Find some fold lines that line up really well to a tab somewhere in the middle of your cut out piece. This will help eliminate those times of getting to the end and finding you are several millimeters too short... whoops.
-Don't force the shape, if your cuts are clean and straight and you are always gluing the corresponding edges completely parallel, then the pepakura piece will pull itself into the correct shape (it may not happen until you glue more pieces together).
-If you didn't get the pieces completely flush together it is okay, just don't glue an edge crooked.
-If you need to undo a glued tab, take the "nose" of the glue gun and wedge it between the two pieces, as you push it along it will reheat the glue holding them together. Alternately, you can just squeeze out a bunch of hot glue on the backside of that glued tab and it will heat the glue underneath the tab. The second method is more challenging, messy and hot, but it is quicker.
-To avoid the need to fix, work slowly and one tab at a time. It may take a while, but I never have good luck when I try to do more than two tabs at a time (unless they are really tiny tabs).
-Lastly, work symmetrically. If you do a couple pieces on the left side, do the same ones on the right next. This will help you keep the piece even as you work and not wind up with a leaning tower of helmet.
-Remember, you're probably not going to get it 100% perfect so don't get frustrated. As you get closer to the end you can start leaving gaps or pinching it a little to fix some of the tension problems. Don't hesitate to cut something away or add a tab. There is going to be plenty more work to do so don't get hung up on the paper being perfect.

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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

PerniciousDuke

Your welcome bro! About to save u even more time with pepping. Ditch the pen! Do all of your scoring on the printed side. That goes for both fold lines, mountain and valley fold lines. No need to have the pen for color to distinguish between the 2 fold lines either. I usually keep the mountain lines dotted, then in the settings I'll change the valley lines to solid.:):thumbsup
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Your welcome bro! About to save u even more time with pepping. Ditch the pen! Do all of your scoring on the printed side. That goes for both fold lines, mountain and valley fold lines. No need to have the pen for color to distinguish between the 2 fold lines either. I usually keep the mountain lines dotted, then in the settings I'll change the valley lines to solid.:):thumbsup

I hear you. Two problems for me though. If I change one fold line to solid I would risk missing it and mistaking it for a cut line. Also, I have tried just using the knife to score both folds, but it sometimes scratches the ink off and then I can't remember if it was a mountain or valley. So far I don't have time concerns with the scoring part of it. The reason I use the pen for the mountain folds is because typically there are more of them and I can score them during down time at work. Appreciate the input though, you never know what might work better for someone.
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

PerniciousDuke

I use a Cameo now. And yes, since there is usually more mountain fold lines I go back to the pepakura program to see where the valley fold lines are. I end up taking a pen and mark a small letter V next to the fold lines. If the valley fold is on a tab I just mark it on the tab. If the line, or tab doesn't have a V next to it then I know its a mountain fold. Also, I usually try to mark the Vs before removing the parts off the cutting mat since its got a adhesive backing to it.
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

I use a Cameo now.

I wish I could shell out $200 bucks for one of those. I know my fingers would thank me, but who knows maybe I'll be able to do one finger push ups by the end of this suit!! :lol
I am pretty excited though because I just confirmed my order on amazon for all the undersuit and strappings which was about $200. I listed and linked to everything I purchased in my first post.


Plus, SavedbyGraceG12 , you already gave me a great tip when you told me to ditch those edge IDs !
 
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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Love your tip about folding before cutting the parts out, it's something I wish I'd thought of when I was still doing helmets.
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Never thought about using a razer blade to fold peps before...I've always used a metal ruler.
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Never thought about using a razer blade to fold peps before...I've always used a metal ruler.
\

I would recommend sticking with the metal ruler. I only used the razor blade on those pieces because my metal ruler is 18" and those piece I took a picture of were less than 1". It was just a little quicker in that instance, but for all others the ruler is much safer. :)
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

I received my first big purchase for this costume!!
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It's one thing to have a suit of armor... It's a totally different thing to fit into it. I'm hoping that a few trips to work with this beauty during the summer will help the later along.

I'll post my progress on the bruteshot in a couple days. Haven't had much time, tried my hand at building a vacuum former over the weekend. Thanks and keep building!

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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Progress:

I'm getting closer! This time tomorrow and I should have the knifle fully pepped, knife and all. :D
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You may note that I used popsicle sticks on the outside of the barrel and other appendages to help keep them straight for the resining process. It will be a pain to remove them, but not as much of a pain as making something straight that just isn't. Oh and I am happy again with the size. By the time I get the blade on there it will not need to be any bigger.
 

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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

PerniciousDuke

If I'm not mistaken, I believe I mentioned to ditch the pen. But yeah, edge Ids are not always reliable. I've realized over time that if your trying to line numbers up it can actually throw lining up the edges of two parts off. Especially on parts that have a curved edge to them. Its better to glue one tab on one end, then on to the other tab on the opposite end. After that you would just work the rest of the tabs that fall in between the end tabs. Every model is different, I've had some edges longer than its joining edge. Just gotta make it work with what I just mentioned above. Sounds silly that there would be a longer edge, but it's the truth. Maybe it's just a software error.:wacko

Anyways this is turning out very well! Proportioning looks perfect to!:cool
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Looks great!! Cant wait to see it done!:thumbsup
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

If I'm not mistaken, I believe I mentioned to ditch the pen. But yeah, edge Ids are not always reliable.

Yes, you did, but you told me about the edge ids on my first build. The Pipboy's pieces were so small I couldn't see where the fold lines were because the edge ids were in the way. I've had much better luck without them.

I understand what you're describing. I do something similar. I glue the middle tab and then work my way out symmetrically, gluing the one to the left and then the right. I feel like it helps me from "pulling" the pep in an unnatural direct. Same goes for your method, but I feel like I would get frustrated if I glued both sides because there would be little room to work with during the middle tabs.. I kinda have big fingers. :unsure

Thanks guys! Check back later today!
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Update: It is done!
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I really don't recommend pepping a weapon. This has been the most challenging and most time consuming pep I've done. I also can't imagine doing a smaller weapon. The only saving grace was that at most times I had plenty of room to get my hands in. So I guess that means my next one will be a Fuel Rod Cannon. :lol I'll have quite a bit to do with the suit though, so no more big weapons for awhile.

Here are some close up shots of the pep work. Thanks to rundown for the file.
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I will probably be cutting off the handle here and here* and a adding some length in to get my hand. My only other thought is that it will then be hard to hold the alternate way that MC holds it, with his palm on this handle and his fingers gripping the edge in front of it.
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The weird appendige that sticks out the farthest for some reason didn't get pepped symmetrically. I am going to cut it off here and here* and just re-pep this portion.
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This is a picture of the blade, with the knife edge closest to the camera. I don't know what happened, but as I went to glue the knife edge together it pulled it crooked here*. I was able to get it to straighten out, so I think I will leave it and just try my best to fix it a little more with bondo.
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*for some reason the arrows I drew on the pictures are not showing up??

Question: Maybe a diehard might know, because I've been mulling it over for awhile now... How does this thing fire? I mean, where is the trigger??

Thanks for the encouragement and kind words everyone! My next step will be to resin it today so I don't bend it. After that I will use any sunny day to do other stuff and any rainy ones to rondo and bondo this guy. It won't be for another week though as I had to take a second shift at work this week. Oh well, at least I'll have some moolah to make it look good.

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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Dang, what a beast! To be honest I don't think it took you very long. Good work!
 
Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Hey guys, been a little quiet around here, or maybe I've just been too busy lately.. I'm still here though! Hope all the builds are going great.

I just got my amazon order in the mail. Not a game accurate undersuit, but I really like the bulk it gives the build, not to mention the support. So here it is:
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That's all the pieces of the undersuit (the links to what I bought can be found in my first post), minus the boots and gloves and the bits of vinyl I'll add in later. Now on to measuring. I didn't want to pep anything until I was able to put all this gear on in case the pepped pieces didn't fit over it. I'll update in a couple days to show how I went about measuring and scaling the pep files. Happy building all!
 

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Re: Duke's Custom Reach Suit with Bruteshot (with Step by Step) +photos!!

Yeah I know that suit all too well. :D.

Have used it myself in the past. And while not game accurate as you say, it works out pretty well in the end. It's also this suit that is being used in countless cheap SciFi movies as armor, most of the time completly unmodified. So heck if they can get away with it, we certainly can.

Cripes that gun looks good. And big. Somehow I imagined it smaller. :)
 
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