*Finished(?) Pg 12* 13-Year-Old's Non-Toxic Spartan-III build

[ventrue]

In other matters, I'll go with resining my armor. However, it wasn't the resin my dad was worried about, it was the cloth. So instead of glass cloth, we'll use gauze, or some old rags. Still don't know about the bondo. I might go with my paper mache pulp idea.

The resin is clearly the bigger health hazard here.

Fibreglass also doesn't just "come loose" once you've properly applied it.

I'm not sure you can replace fiberglass cloth with rags.. or gauze.. if I were you, I would get some rubber gloves, and use THOSE to handle the fiberglass!! or use fiberglass chunks!

You can. But the reason for doing so wouldn't be that you might otherwise touch the fibreglass, but rather that you might breathe dust particles of it.

Here, maybe this will help you decide: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33426-Prop-Making-Safety-Guide

 

[Nintendude]

A tip for you here, since you're using Low Def Armor for the Torso. Get yourself some Sculpty clay and sculpt out the back detail, bake the clay then epoxy it onto the armor, then coat the armor with fiberglass resin or aqua resin which is supposed to be non-toxic from what I hear and you're good to go you can also do the same for the detail on the parts to the sides of the neck. It's what I did for my old suit.

 

[Shadow 2r5]

I'm still thinking about the hardening technique. Should I use the the fiberglass method or the rondo method and paint it onto the inside? I'm thinking the rondo method might be easier, especially with little grooves and details.

@Nintendude, thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can do about those details.

EDIT: Hopefully this is the last time I change my mind. Okay, I'll try out paper mache-ing the outside and inside like resin and hot glue like fiberglass. It will be a trial on a shoulder piece. Depending on the result, I will either continue on in hopes of making an almost completely non-toxic armor, or I will rebuild the shoulder piece and use the traditional way.

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Double post, WHOO!

I've made some progress today with my helmet. I've paper mache'd the outside and I am getting ready to hot glue the inside. Here's some pics:
URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/683/img0247kx.jpg/]

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I think I'll be continuing this method, instead of using resin, fiberglass, and bondo.

It's just the angle of the photo, but the helmet is not warped that much anymore. I used Lego bricks to create a support and it's pretty much dead center.

 

[Varsity]

looking good. want to see some paint on it.

 

[Zachrack]

Pretty awesome work man... I'm 16 and still thinking on scales for my armor! Just finished my super-res handplate and beginning (for a second time) the MK-VI chest. Keep up the good work-practice makes perfect!!!

 

[Spitfire22V]

Not bad so far, keep it up. Don't be limited by low-def pieces; think of them more as blank canvases that you can add whatever you want to.

 

[Shadow 2r5]

I've finished hot gluing the inside. It was a PAIN to do. I don't think I let the glue melt completely, so I had five seconds before it cooled. The inside looks messy, but that'll be covered by foam. I don't think it helped by using a popsicle stick with the end cut flat.

The paper mache and hot glue combo is working exceptionally well. With one layer of paper mache on the outside and a botched hot glue job on the inside, I can lightly knock on it. I haven't tried a hard knock since the forehead part moves down a little, but that should be fixed with a visor. I can bounce it up in the air like a beach ball and give it a (very) light punt without any damge.

This week I'll work on just pepping due to school, then on Friday night I'll prep the paper mache "bondo" and see how it turns out.

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Not bad so far, keep it up. Don't be limited by low-def pieces; think of them more as blank canvases that you can add whatever you want to.

To make up for the low def pieces, I'm gonna screw game accuracy once everything's hardened and smoothed, and go crazy with customization, like attachments and paint schemes. >

As for my plans later on, I think I'll go paper mache all the way. The hot glue feels weird on the inide without padding and was a huge pain in the ace to apply.

I still need something for the visor, but motorcycle visors are kinda expensive. I think I'll use some clear plastic, shape it with a ball and a blowdryer, and put some kind of reflective coating on it. I can't wait for the weekend... Stupid school...

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh snap! Triple post!

Anyway, I've been working on the HD forearm by Nugget, and I think it's too small. What do you guys think?

 

[AI Blue Fox]

how did it take me so long to find this thread? I could have been a big help with the hot glue method. i did that with my odst armor. Yes it is a lot better than resin and mat, but you can't use as much bondo (if you use bondo) if you do use hot glue. only hot gluethe inside so it can keep it's shape. I used plaster and clay to smooth and detail my armor, but anything could work. Also, I highly suggest (if you have the money) putting a lot of effort into things like the shouldrs and shins then molding and casting them. I use silicone to mold my armor and use smooth on for the castings.

hopes this helps!

p.s. I was real young when I started too, younger then you infact. hopefully you will actually complete your armor! good luck

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Alright, I've got more progress on the forearm, but I'm not sure if it's scaled correctly.
Here's a pic of me with the shoulder and partially completed forearm.


Sorry for the lower quality, I was using the front cam for that "Cameraception" with the mirror.

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Double post!

I've scrapped the HD because it was too small. I've scaled the LD version and it seems good.


Here's some more angles:



Only problem is the wrist hole is too small. Are you supposed to trim like with the helmet?

 

[Varsity]

You can trim it, but if its too small and doesnt look right i would build another.

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Let me just say that Paper Mache clay SUCKS. It goes on all lumpy and you can't squeegee it on like bondo. It's very thick and I stopped when I realized that the details would be lost, so I'm treating it more like a spot putty

The main reason I messed with the helmet was because of the edges that overlapping strips of paper leave. Now I realize I should have painted right away and seen if it hid those edges, instead of applying the clay.

EDIT: The helmet is a POS and is being scrapped. I think I'll make a Mk VI this time. The height I used for the CQB was 270, and the MkVI is a bit shorter, so what do you guys suggest I put the height as? This time, I'll try copy paper on the final layer and see if that gives me a smooth finish. Will spray paint hide the overlaps and make it seem like a single sheet wrapped over?

 

[Shrubpig]

good idea on the magnum! using a toy that kinda looks like it if you mod it!

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Holy crap that's a lot of pieces. I've downloaded both the Smooth MkVI 2.0 by DF4L and the HD Final FS Version, and I'm thinking I should go with DF4L's, though what do you guys think? The FS has lots of support, but I think it has waaaaaaayy too much pages. DF4L's seems smooth enough to show off in, but it might collapse.

 

[Unity]

Beautiful pep work man! Keep it up!

 

[Shadow 2r5]

Beautiful pep work man! Keep it up!

Thanks! Let's hope I don't screw anything up during the paper mache stage again.

I've decided on the Smooth MKVI 2.0, since it's all organized by sections and it's already scaled to my size.

 

[FrankC00l]

Yay I can relate to this thread!! I'm 15 and I'm starting work on Emile's armor... Completely made of paper mache... I think I've got a pretty good recipe but what recipe did you use for the mache? Or did you use the clay? Btw my recipe is (if I recall correctly) wood glue, water, and corn starch.