Would you recommend waiting a week before painting rather than the 24 hours the can recommends?
This would 100% depend on the weather in your area. If you live in a cold, moist environment during these winter months, then you would not harm anything in waiting a full week. A lot of these curing recommendations are based on the climate where the material is being used.Would you recommend waiting a week before painting rather than the 24 hours the can recommends?
Absolutely if that's what it takes! I use the "smell" test for all paint applications or in this case rubber application. Different climates, humidity and temps determine how fast paint cures. I never start the next layer of paint until the first one totally loses its paint smell. That paint smell is the aerosols evaporating out of the pigment or rubber which allows it to cure to the final product. If you cover that up while it's still out gassing, your paint on top will not be as durable as your trapping those evaporating aerosols that made the paint before liquid in the first place. This method takes longer and some people dont have thepatience for it. But the most durable paint job always start with not rushing, and optimum surface prep before application.Would you recommend waiting a week before painting rather than the 24 hours the can recommends?
Absolutely if that's what it takes! I use the "smell" test for all paint applications or in this case rubber application. Different climates, humidity and temps determine how fast paint cures. I never start the next layer of paint until the first one totally loses its paint smell. That paint smell is the aerosols evaporating out of the pigment or rubber which allows it to cure to the final product. If you cover that up while it's still out gassing, your paint on top will not be as durable as your trapping those evaporating aerosols that made the paint before liquid in the first place. This method takes longer and some people dont have thepatience for it. But the most durable paint job always start with not rushing, and optimum surface prep before application.
Thank you very much! I guess that's what 3 months of slow and steady attention to detail will achieve. Some days I glued only 2 pieces some days I did more. HahaNo matter how many times I see this, it's insane to me that this is all foam.
wow! This torso cast looks great. Where can I get one from?!?
Link to my Instagram with a video walk around of the sealed torso for those that havent seen it.
Haha I should cast this thing! I need to learn more about that first..apparently some people have casted foam, never really thought about that before.wow! This torso cast looks great. Where can I get one from?!?
Haha I'll start asking around and see how to do it.CAST IT! CAST IT! CAST IT! CAST IT!
Haha I'll start asking around and see how to do it.
Well that is definitely not a concern with my foam work techniques. My foam builds are almost as rigid as a print usually. This torso is layered anywhere from 20mm to 40mm thick in some areas. It's very sturdy. Not to mention I always coat the inside of all my foam work with shoe goo which bonds into the foam that makes them very strong to forces. The surface has been sealed with my normal Rustoleum Leak Seal which produces a much stronger surface than plasti-dip as well. I use this because it is sandable and I sand all my armor surfaces before painting for a good smooth bond. Hard to describe i guess until one actually handles and feel how stout this one is. And it's still lighter than my old one. HahaIt wouldn't be impossible, just varying levels of difficult depending on your base foam piece. Biggest issues I can think of of the top of my head would be the Silicone "Seeping" into the Foam surface, if it has not been sealed well, and the weight of the Silicone and or it's fiberglass or plaster support shell deforming the piece if it is not rigid and strong enough. .
Yeah for sure, I'm definitely considering it! I was talking to Justin Branfuhr today and he was mentioning trying the same techniqueDefinitely sounds you would be good to go with some brush on Silicone with a Fiberglass/Plaster support shell. You could then crank out some Fiberglass or resin copies of that chest.
Yaaaaaay! Take my money so I can look beutiful like you!!!Yeah for sure, I'm definitely considering it! I was talking to Justin Branfuhr today and he was mentioning trying the same technique
Thanks man!! I really appreciate it! I put alot of work and studying into it. I really wish you all could handle it and feel it. How stout it is and very comfortable to wear. Waaaaay better than my old one. I was actually able to achieve getting the weight to distribute on the shoulders this time as opposed to just the neck on my old one. I did this by layering up the shoulder power pack straps over 40mm thick to get an even plain on the inside for the buckle system and put the weight on my shoulders to best represent the game physics. Turned out to work great. here are pics wearing it before I seal coated it.That is literally the most accurate Halo 3 Chest and Back I have ever seen. It's so pretty it would almost be a shame not to mold it!
Thanks man!! I really appreciate it! I put alot of work and studying into it. I really wish you all could handle it and feel it. How stout it is and very comfortable to wear. Waaaaay better than my old one. I was actually able to achieve getting the weight to distribute on the shoulders this time as opposed to just the neck on my old one. I did this by layering up the shoulder power pack straps over 40mm thick to get an even plain on the inside for the buckle system and put the weight on my shoulders to best represent the game physics. Turned out to work great. here are pics wearing it before I seal coated it.
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Do not give him props sir, he will just remake it.Wow. Just wow.