Sky Walker
Member
you can only get smooth cast online
Halo: Combat Evolved Mk. V Build... so far (Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter Fudz073
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Fudz073
Active Member
I used the balsa wood lip to make sure the visor kept the profile appropriate the helmet. This will vary from helmet to helmet.
Sanding is just normal back-and-forth sanding. I start with 80 grit, then go to 100 grit, and finish with 320grit. I suppose you could used an orbital sander but I find the best sanding is done by hand.
The smooth cast has to be ordered on line from Smooth-On.com unless you live near a Blick art store. I hear the have some of smooth-on's products
Everything else can be found at home depot
Sanding is just normal back-and-forth sanding. I start with 80 grit, then go to 100 grit, and finish with 320grit. I suppose you could used an orbital sander but I find the best sanding is done by hand.
The smooth cast has to be ordered on line from Smooth-On.com unless you live near a Blick art store. I hear the have some of smooth-on's products
Everything else can be found at home depot
Revenant1988
Active Member
EDIT
Lol my bad Fudz, I was posting at the same time as you. Ignore my nonsense
The thing about the MK V helmet is that it doesn't have a good place to just 'stick in' the visor, it needs to be able to attach to something. In a helmet like Recon or Command, its a flat surface so Blackula's method with the Chicago screws does not really work without modification. Fudz had to attach a lip, so that the visor had something to sit against. Otherwise, it would have just floated in place since it is cut only to fit the gap. I almost did my helmet like that, but I decided at the last second that I didn't have the time necessary to do it that way.
Think of it like this- His visor is pushed into place, like you would put a lid on a crock pot (it has a small lip that the lid can rest on). Hope that helps.
He used balsa wood I think, so its pretty easy to sand with 60-80 grit paper. You can get Balsa wood at a hobby store or Jo Ann Fabric. I don't know what epoxy he used, but you can find many kinds at Home Depot or Lowes. If you use something like JB weld, its cheaper by a few dollars at Walmart (thats where I got mine). Look around, you never know what you might find!
Lol my bad Fudz, I was posting at the same time as you. Ignore my nonsense
The thing about the MK V helmet is that it doesn't have a good place to just 'stick in' the visor, it needs to be able to attach to something. In a helmet like Recon or Command, its a flat surface so Blackula's method with the Chicago screws does not really work without modification. Fudz had to attach a lip, so that the visor had something to sit against. Otherwise, it would have just floated in place since it is cut only to fit the gap. I almost did my helmet like that, but I decided at the last second that I didn't have the time necessary to do it that way.
Think of it like this- His visor is pushed into place, like you would put a lid on a crock pot (it has a small lip that the lid can rest on). Hope that helps.
He used balsa wood I think, so its pretty easy to sand with 60-80 grit paper. You can get Balsa wood at a hobby store or Jo Ann Fabric. I don't know what epoxy he used, but you can find many kinds at Home Depot or Lowes. If you use something like JB weld, its cheaper by a few dollars at Walmart (thats where I got mine). Look around, you never know what you might find!
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TheL337destroyer
Jr Member
Okay, but I still dont get what you mean by "making sure the visor kept the profile appropriate the helmet?" Lol. And when will you know to use a different sandpaper. BTW I'm sanding by hand too.
EDIT:
Ohh.. okay i see now. Thanks Revenant1988. But what about the sandpaper thing I asked earlier.? I still dont get that. lol
EDIT:
Ohh.. okay i see now. Thanks Revenant1988. But what about the sandpaper thing I asked earlier.? I still dont get that. lol
Fudz073
Active Member
Thanks man. I had trouble explaining that one.
It's kinda intuitive. There will be imperfections (bumps, jagged edges, etc.) which will taken off with the 80 grit sandpaper. Personally I spray paint my work a matte black before each sanding and then circle the imperfections with a silver paint marker. It helps organize the sanding process so I don't miss any imperfection that needs to be taken care of. Once you think you have all the major faults removed. Run your hand over the helmet. If the overall surface has a uniform surface texture, move onto the higher grit sand paper. The 80 grit will take the longest to use. The finer grits will progress fairly quickly.
TheL337destroyer
Jr Member
Ohh.. okay thanks. So where ever there's bumps, and like around the corner folds and stuff. Sand there. But ONE last thing. lol. What do you mean uniform surface texture?
Revenant1988
Active Member
Uniform surface texture means that the whole area feels the same, as in its all the same smoothness or the same roughness. If you've ever had dry skin before its kinda like that, where the texture overall is one thing, but there is a spot where its not.
Essentially what you have to do, is sand until it feels the same on the whole area you are looking at. Once that has been done, THEN you move on to the next grit sandpaper if you so choose.
If you are unsure how to do it, find something to practice on, check google/youtube or ask an adult. The best way to learn, is to just do it. Sanding is something you will be doing a lot on this kind of project, especially if you use a body filler like bondo. Practice pieces are your best friend.
TheL337destroyer
Jr Member
Alright. One last question. I promise, lol. I just bought everything I'm going to need, is it possible to resin at night? I think i saw a picture where Fudz076 did it, and it still worked.
Thanks so much, and good luck fudz076
Thanks so much, and good luck fudz076
JUSTINIAN 117
Well-Known Member
Yes, it is perfectly fine to resin at night. The lighting does not have any effect on ther resin. The only thing that will make resin not work is not the right mixture (not enough hadner) or cold weather (it will really slow the cure time, and possibly never cure fully.)
To avoid the resin not curing I usually use extra hardner. It cures a lot faster, so only work with small batches, untill you get the hang of it. If you run out of hardner, you can buy an extra hardner bottle for a few dollars. Also using it in a warm area, or a heat lamp if you have cold condidtions. If you choose to resin inside, make sure you wear a respirator, so you don't die from the fumes. A heat box, heat lamp, heat gun, or hair dryer can also help if needed.
To avoid the resin not curing I usually use extra hardner. It cures a lot faster, so only work with small batches, untill you get the hang of it. If you run out of hardner, you can buy an extra hardner bottle for a few dollars. Also using it in a warm area, or a heat lamp if you have cold condidtions. If you choose to resin inside, make sure you wear a respirator, so you don't die from the fumes. A heat box, heat lamp, heat gun, or hair dryer can also help if needed.
TheL337destroyer
Jr Member
Okay, thanks man. How many drops should I use by the way, its for my Halo: CEA Mark V. Helmet. Also, how long do I have to wait for it to cure? And can I fiberglass at night too? Thanks again
JUSTINIAN 117
Well-Known Member
It will say how many to use on the bottle. Usually 7 drops per ounce or tablespoon or something like that. I would normally add 9-12 drops for that amount, and it cures within 10 minutes or so. You will no it is close to being cured, when it starts to turn into a jelly like substance. You will only get another minute at that point, before it gets very gloppy. If you are resining the outside, and it starts to become jelly, don't put any more on, because it will take a long time to sand it smooth.
Fiberglass is the same thing as using resin, only you add the fiberglass cloth to make it very strong. Mix it up the same as resin, and brush it on the INSIDE of your helmet. quickly put the cloth on the fresh resin, and brush another coat over the cloth. If you do it right, the cloth will get a little darker, becasue the resin has soaked in enough. If it doesn't, then put some more resin on. If it gets too runny, then you are using too much resin. Repeat that process untill the entire inside is completely covered. The more coats you add, the stronger it will be. At least 2 coats is good.
This is a slow procces, so you should only work with small batches of resin, and be sure to cut the cloth into small strips before you mix any resin. I usually cut them into 1x3 strips, but I have never fiberglassed a helmet, so you may want to cut them smaller. Expect to get half of the helmet done, before you need to mix more resin. Once you get all of it resined, let it cure for at least half an hour before starting the next coat.
Fiberglass is the same thing as using resin, only you add the fiberglass cloth to make it very strong. Mix it up the same as resin, and brush it on the INSIDE of your helmet. quickly put the cloth on the fresh resin, and brush another coat over the cloth. If you do it right, the cloth will get a little darker, becasue the resin has soaked in enough. If it doesn't, then put some more resin on. If it gets too runny, then you are using too much resin. Repeat that process untill the entire inside is completely covered. The more coats you add, the stronger it will be. At least 2 coats is good.
This is a slow procces, so you should only work with small batches of resin, and be sure to cut the cloth into small strips before you mix any resin. I usually cut them into 1x3 strips, but I have never fiberglassed a helmet, so you may want to cut them smaller. Expect to get half of the helmet done, before you need to mix more resin. Once you get all of it resined, let it cure for at least half an hour before starting the next coat.
TheL337destroyer
Jr Member
oaky, i already started. I resined the outside. And am about to start fiberglassing later.
(EDIT)
And sorry Fudz076 for using your thread.. lol
(EDIT)
And sorry Fudz076 for using your thread.. lol
Revenant1988
Active Member
Have you been working on this much since H:CEA launched?
Lol I know I've put mine on hold for a while while I save up money to put into it. Christmas is killin me.
Hope all is well!
Lol I know I've put mine on hold for a while while I save up money to put into it. Christmas is killin me.
Hope all is well!
Fudz073
Active Member
@ Revenant1988
I really haven't done much either. School's really picked up as well as work. I'm hoping to do some more after christmas, but we'll see. I wan't to start the halo reach Pilot helmet and I'm working on a reach hand grenade right now in my spare time. But, I'll finish the suit sooner or later.
@ Glycerine
Foam is actually quite durable. If you glue it well enough, I takes a lot of force to damage it. My only concern is painting. It's a little more difficult since paint either absorbs into the material or cracks when the armor is flexed. I've been trolling around for some solutions but I definitely prefer foam over fiberglass.
I really haven't done much either. School's really picked up as well as work. I'm hoping to do some more after christmas, but we'll see. I wan't to start the halo reach Pilot helmet and I'm working on a reach hand grenade right now in my spare time. But, I'll finish the suit sooner or later.
@ Glycerine
Foam is actually quite durable. If you glue it well enough, I takes a lot of force to damage it. My only concern is painting. It's a little more difficult since paint either absorbs into the material or cracks when the armor is flexed. I've been trolling around for some solutions but I definitely prefer foam over fiberglass.
ViZiONEER
New Member
Hey Fudz! Congratulations on your Mark V! Long time no response to this thread, but as far as I've seen around the forums you seem to be the only one who is using an ICON bubble shield for the visor. I am also planning to add it to my Mark VI build. Do you plan to add the double visor effect and have you any ideas of how this can be put into it? Maybe with another clean shiled in front of the reflective one? Would it fit or will there be gasps between them?
I also thought already about buying two clean ones and add some carglass sun protective foil colored in reflective orange after putting them together to get the effect in the original color and across the whole surface.
Wish you good luck in your projects and looking forward to see your Mark V completed.
I also thought already about buying two clean ones and add some carglass sun protective foil colored in reflective orange after putting them together to get the effect in the original color and across the whole surface.
Wish you good luck in your projects and looking forward to see your Mark V completed.
Fudz073
Active Member
I wouldn't do the double visor for the Mk V but if I was doing the mk VI, definitely. Overlaying two of the ICON bubble visors to get the double visor look would not work (in my experience anyway... I may be wrong!) . Since they each have the same dimensions, there would definitely be a gap. However, if you used a regular motorcycle visor that wasn't so extremely shaped, you could probably manage to to squish both layers to lay flat against each other. But this sacrifices the trademark bubble look that the actual helmet has...
ViZiONEER
New Member
Thanks for that info Fudz! Uhm... would be interesting to know how flexible the ICON visor is when I only cut out the second layer. Not sure if it would still be as solid to be unable to bend it the way I need. I guess I just have to give it a try. New Ideas often need some trial and error.
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