1st Build Halo Infinite Mark VI GEN 3 Armor build

[Spartan131]

Hello everyone who is reading this post! Well, I attempted the GEN 2 Armor like the Chief’s, but moving ruined that plan, and after going MIA for half a year I am now starting on the GEN 3 armor. I will 3d print the armor with a Creality Ender 3 V2, using PETG filament. I have one question, though: where should I get the files? I have seen files sold by Galactic Armory (on their website and on Etsy). But I have also seen the files made by MoeSizzlac, if I remember correctly, and I’m not sure which files to get. Could I get some input on which files are better? I would prefer the files that are more detailed, but also not difficult to print in the first place.

 

[SpartanSweed]

From what I’ve seen browsing, people who have done Moe’s files have had some good results

 

[Spartan131]

Okay, I’ve decided to get the Galactic Armory files. Does anyone have experience with the files, and know whether an ender 3 v2 can print it out? Also, is there a scaling method that doesn’t need special software like Armorsmith?

 

[Unfit Armory]

Okay, I’ve decided to get the Galactic Armory files. Does anyone have experience with the files, and know whether an ender 3 v2 can print it out? Also, is there a scaling method that doesn’t need special software like Armorsmith?

Honestly, armor smith is the easiest option, at least for me. I'll have to warn you first though, the initial measuring bit is really annoying.
I believe there was around 20 steps, but after that, it's a breeze.
In regards to splitting, I'd HIGHLY recommend Microsoft's 3D builder. Very user friendly UI, and Makes splitting models easy. If you don't use windows, well that complicates things. Nevertheless, theres plenty of ways to do it.

 

[Spartan131]

Okay, I‘ve decided to use armorsmith; you convinced me, admiral4ever. Still trying to get the right proportions for the avatar. for now, I’ll work on the helmet, then get and scale the rest of the armor later (I’m trying to make the costs gradual.) How should the helmet fit on my head? should there be some space between my head and the inside of the helmet? Should the chin part have a snug fit on my chin? I’ll post pictures after I redo my avatar, because I think I miscalculated some of the proportion (I should probably 3d print some calipers.)

 

[Spartan131]

Well, PETG is harder to print than I anticipated. I have attempted twice, and both had inconsistent printing, and the first had blobs and stringing. Can someone help me figure out what I’m doing wrong? I have tried 220 and 230 degree nozzle temperature, and 85 degree bed temperature.

 

[WolfS117]

I have used moes files and found them to be great. I have seen your not going that way. One tip I would say is be really mindful of where you cut the files to fit on the printer.

Cutting a flat area in half is much easier for sanding later. Rather than trying to hide cuts in areas that are not flat.

Look forward to see some photos.

I am about halfway on my mo build. I used different helmet files tho.

 

[PlanetAlexander]

In terms of head scaling, you'll want to make sure that, firstly, there's room to fit the helmet on without needing to chop off your ears. You could even modify the back of it to magnetically pull off, giving more room to fit the head in, and then re-attach that part magnetically. You'll likely also want some room inside for padding, and keep in mind if you plan for any electronics like lights or fans.

Alas I never had much luck with PETG, but blobs and stringing sounds like an issue with moisture. Most filaments, PETG being one of the worst offenders, can absorb the moisture from the air. When the filament then comes out of the nozzle, the trapped water heats, expands and blows up in tiny amounts, which pushes the filament around causing the blobbing and stringing. Take a look at drying your filament, and storing it in an airtight container with a few bags of silica to absorb the moisture.

 

[Spartan131]

Well, turns out my print bed became non-level (I really should buy an automatic leveler,) but now the back of the helmet is printing like a dream. Still another 40 hours to go, but I’m optimistic. I’m using the PETG right out of the initial packaging, which is airtight, and has silica bags. I haven’t thought of magnetic attachment of the back; my plan was to use JB weld, or another ridiculously strong glue; but I may attempt that if my plan doesn’t work. Oh, and I’m actually not cutting the helmet into pieces; the files have the main helmet print in three separate pieces; and luckily, my print bed is just large enough for them.

 

[Spartan131]

Okay, here is the back piece. At this moment, I am printing the AI chip. Please forgive the awful backdrop; I don’t exactly have an official workspace. I am ecstatic at how good the print came out! At this point, I am determining how I will make the visor. Option 1: build or buy a vacuum former and use that. Option 2: have it commissioned. What is generally the easier route?

 

[FalseShepherd]

Very clean print! Nice work! With regards to the visor, buying one will always be easier than making one... Just depends on your finances and time and what you want to do.

 

[Spartan131]

well, I managed to print the next piece (it’s hard to get a good time window when you’re in an area where it’s so hot, there’s a risk of power outage). I had to wait to get some more filament before I continue, but now there’s enough to finish the helmet! Only problem is the heat; I will unfortunately have to wait for things to cool down before I continue the helmet.

Also, below is the two helmet pieces together. I have a question: Are the pieces supposed to look like that together? Is there supposed to be that gap, and you fill it in? Or did I do something that screwed up the printing process? If anyone could answer my question, I’d really appreciate it.

 

[Unfit Armory]

Hello everyone who is reading this post! Well, I attempted the GEN 2 Armor like the Chief’s, but moving ruined that plan, and after going MIA for half a year I am now starting on the GEN 3 armor. I will 3d print the armor with a Creality Ender 3 V2, using PETG filament. I have one question, though: where should I get the files? I have seen files sold by Galactic Armory (on their website and on Etsy). But I have also seen the files made by MoeSizzlac, if I remember correctly, and I’m not sure which files to get. Could I get some input on which files are better? I would prefer the files that are more detailed, but also not difficult to print in the first place.

I would recommend buying the files from an artist by the name of the_makyr on instagram. DM him and ask for price. I have not done so yet, but his latest files are some of the greatest i've seen.

Makyr (@the_makyr) • Instagram photos and videos

11K Followers, 272 Following, 43 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Makyr (@the_makyr)

www.instagram.com

(sorry if i'm late on delivery lol)

 

[PlanetAlexander]

well, I managed to print the next piece (it’s hard to get a good time window when you’re in an area where it’s so hot, there’s a risk of power outage). I had to wait to get some more filament before I continue, but now there’s enough to finish the helmet! Only problem is the heat; I will unfortunately have to wait for things to cool down before I continue the helmet.
View attachment 320840View attachment 320841View attachment 320842View attachment 320843
Also, below is the two helmet pieces together. I have a question: Are the pieces supposed to look like that together? Is there supposed to be that gap, and you fill it in? Or did I do something that screwed up the printing process? If anyone could answer my question, I’d really appreciate it.View attachment 320844View attachment 320845View attachment 320846

The undersides of the prints (the edges where the two parts meet up) look pretty rough due to the supports. This is pretty common in printing, so it's not something you've done wrong! But you'll want to clean it up with a file, or low-grit sandpaper would be the next best option. This will clean up and even out those edges to help eliminate those gaps.

But after that you're still likely to have a seam, so there's a couple of options. You could use some body filler, like Bondo in America, to fill it in. You could also use a 3D printing pen, soldering iron or wood burner + spare filament to melt some plastic into the seam. Harder to sand than body filler, but helps bond the pieces together better.