How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

[BLACKULA727]

@ BEN. Joined this forum specifically to thank you for the great informational videos... you have no clue of how big a relief it is to have a friendly and informative introduction into this area (before finding these videos i had not even heard of resin.) ... your information is very clear and concise and the time your taking to explain in detail all you can is greatly appreciated. even though I'm finding this thread late just had to give you props for the great work.

I couldn't agree more. I too am a graduate from the school of Ben..lol. I learned everything I know about rondo from his videos.

 

[VIzardErebus]

@-@ confused now.....XP. Hey, if you ever just want to know about the story of halo, please check out my thread and let me know what you think. Thanks
Halo Canon

 

[amedcalf]

Hi Ben, Awsome vids, have been helping me loads lol. This has actually made me pick up where I left off months ago.

Keep up the good work and a big hello from boring England.

 

[masterchief6523]

is there a special kind of foam that can be replace to fill attachments on the reach armo?????
. because i am trying to make jorge armor for halloween and to put on display or comic con.

 

[BrownJellyTrail]

I need some big time help. I have built two helmets and various other pieces, but I come to a screeching halt when it comes to the bondo and sanding part of things. I just started using the finer grits to get it super smooth. But it just seems that I can't get out all of the little imperfections. I want it smooth. Flat. Not all jacked up like my 7 year old son put it together. Coincidentally I am building him a set of LD Mk VI armor by Robogenesis, and if I don't do it right, it will look like he made it. I have seen others do the LD versions and they always kinda look real angular to me. All edges and nothing rounded out. There was a thread where a guy left some of the lines unfolded so that it gave more of a curved appearance so that you didn't have to use a ton of bondo. So hopefully it comes out looking decent for a LD version.

Off topic, sorry. Take a look at the pics and you'll hopefully see what I mean. Used my iPhone 3GS, so not the greatest quality. Who can help me with this?

 

[Carpathia]

From what I can tell, you just need to keep sanding. It looks like you may be applying too much bondo at once, and not taking a lot of care in its initial application (I used to just slop it on and hope it sanded smooth too). Work in smaller sections and get the bondo on as smoothly as you can so there is a minimal need for sanding in the first place. Are you sanding by hand? If so, you should definitely invest in a power sander (whether it is a mouse sander or a circular sander is your choice) it cuts the sanding time way down and makes the initial smoothing of the bondo very simple. Other than that, I would also recommend watching some youtube vids covering bondo application (I learned a LOT by watching HOW to properly apply the stuff).

Good luck to you, and don't give up.

 

[BenStreeper]

Sorry Guys I got a new job so I'm way behind on answering questions. This is going to be one giant super-post

I Have a Question How do you u harden the helment before Resining it?

Use Card-stock to make the helmet, it is thicker than normal paper

You resin it so it will hold it's shape when you harden it

yes, yes you do ;p

Alright, so I'm starting to freak out a bit. I've been working on my helmet for a while now, and it seemed a little big but I figured that with the rest of the armor it would balance out, now I'm not too sure. Is it supposed to look a bit big?

Yes, it should look as big on you as a normal motorcycle helmet

@ BEN. Joined this forum specifically to thank you for the great informational videos... you have no clue of how big a relief it is to have a friendly and informative introduction into this area (before finding these videos i had not even heard of resin.) ... your information is very clear and concise and the time your taking to explain in detail all you can is greatly appreciated. even though I'm finding this thread late just had to give you props for the great work.

thanks for the props on my props sir ;p

Dun dun dun...... So I tried to mix a batch of bondo the other day so that I would have a good work time with it, and 4 days later it still feels like sticky tack. I went through 3 or 4 sanding pads and it's still not all the way gone. Learn from my eff up, you can mix too cold of a batch of bondo. Also have a question about my chest piece. Is it too small when I can't fit my head through the neck hole? Or is that something that needs to be trimmed to make it work?

depends on the Armour you are making. remember that some parts of the file are suppose to be "soft" armor so they will need to be trimmed and replaced later. Most of the time this does include the area around the neck, as well as the arm holes and the mid-riff/ ab section

Hi Ben, Awsome vids, have been helping me loads lol. This has actually made me pick up where I left off months ago.

Keep up the good work and a big hello from boring England.

Well a big Hello back to you from the Awesome Land of Texas (centrally located inside the boring United States)

@-@ confused now.....XP. Hey, if you ever just want to know about the story of halo, please check out my thread and let me know what you think. Thanks
Halo Canon

I'll check it out but I'm pretty well versed. Between H.B.O. and the official literature I'm stocked up

is there a special kind of foam that can be replace to fill attachments on the reach armo?????
. because i am trying to make jorge armor for halloween and to put on display or comic con.

hard to know what you are asking here, but yes there are expanding foams you could fill an attachment with

I need some big time help. I have built two helmets and various other pieces, but I come to a screeching halt when it comes to the bondo and sanding part of things. I just started using the finer grits to get it super smooth. But it just seems that I can't get out all of the little imperfections. I want it smooth. Flat. Not all jacked up like my 7 year old son put it together. Coincidentally I am building him a set of LD Mk VI armor by Robogenesis, and if I don't do it right, it will look like he made it. I have seen others do the LD versions and they always kinda look real angular to me. All edges and nothing rounded out. There was a thread where a guy left some of the lines unfolded so that it gave more of a curved appearance so that you didn't have to use a ton of bondo. So hopefully it comes out looking decent for a LD version.

Off topic, sorry. Take a look at the pics and you'll hopefully see what I mean. Used my iPhone 3GS, so not the greatest quality. Who can help me with this?

From where you are in these photos I would suggest you stop bondoing and switch over to resin jelly . It will spread easier over you bondoed surface to help level out these imperfections and sand easy. After that use lacquer and high grit sand papers for a super smooth finish

From what I can tell, you just need to keep sanding. It looks like you may be applying too much bondo at once, and not taking a lot of care in its initial application (I used to just slop it on and hope it sanded smooth too). Work in smaller sections and get the bondo on as smoothly as you can so there is a minimal need for sanding in the first place. Are you sanding by hand? If so, you should definitely invest in a power sander (whether it is a mouse sander or a circular sander is your choice) it cuts the sanding time way down and makes the initial smoothing of the bondo very simple. Other than that, I would also recommend watching some youtube vids covering bondo application (I learned a LOT by watching HOW to properly apply the stuff).

Good luck to you, and don't give up.

Agreed. the most important thing about Bondo is that it should be spread, not clumped on to a surface. Use a bondo spreader to apply both bondo and the resin jelly to help reduce the amount of sanding needed after. It also helps to push the bondo into those uneven areas.

 

[BrownJellyTrail]

Excellent. Thanks for the response peeps. I just put on another layer of Bondo, really using the spreader to try and get a nice, smooth, flat coat like I have seen in some videos. We'll see what happens. Thanks again!

Edit: Update:So after some messing around with it like you told me, it came out absolutely amazing! I used only a little bit of bondo and really spread it on even and thin. Sanded it down with increasing grits of sandpaper. 320 seems smooth enough for me. I've heard of guys going into the 400's and wet sanding. I had to patch up a hole real quick, but as soon as the resin dries and I patch up the outside, I think I'm going to spray on a coat or two of primer and see how it turns out. Which leads me to my next question...

Is it a good idea to sand in between coats of paint? If so what grit? I did some sanding on my helmet in between coats and it just seemed to take away the paint I just put on. Thanks again for all your help. Ill get some pics up of the chest piece shortly. Next I need to figure out where to split it and make a reattach system. Thanks again!!

 

[Carpathia]

Is it a good idea to sand in between coats of paint? If so what grit? I did some sanding on my helmet in between coats and it just seemed to take away the paint I just put on. Thanks again for all your help. Ill get some pics up of the chest piece shortly. Next I need to figure out where to split it and make a reattach system. Thanks again!!

It depends on the finish you will want. If you want a very smooth and shiny finish, then let each coat dry for 24 hours and sand with a very fine grit paper (if you can find 1000 or 2000 grit automotive sand paper, then you will get an insanely smooth finish), if you want to make your armor look battle damaged later on, then the sanding between coats is not as necessary. What ever you choose, be sure you don't put the paint on too thick (ie. hold the spray can too close to the model), try to use even and thin coats holding the spray can about a 12 - 18 inches from the model.

 

[BrownJellyTrail]

It depends on the finish you will want. If you want a very smooth and shiny finish, then let each coat dry for 24 hours and sand with a very fine grit paper (if you can find 1000 or 2000 grit automotive sand paper, then you will get an insanely smooth finish), if you want to make your armor look battle damaged later on, then the sanding between coats is not as necessary. What ever you choose, be sure you don't put the paint on too thick (ie. hold the spray can too close to the model), try to use even and thin coats holding the spray can about a 12 - 18 inches from the model.

Excellent! I've tried a bit of this already and it's coming out amazing!!

Ok, now I need to figure out where to split this chest piece. Who has good thoughts on this?

Thanks!

 

[Martionnick]

these videos were great they helped me alot as i am new to this forum. Thanks for posting.

 

[Jdelski]

I've been watching the videos and was wondering if your method could be modified for a wearable helmet? I liked to have the ability to sand and shape my armor so I don't see the paper folds as much, but I am worried a little about weight. So here are my questions:

1. Would the smooth cast plastic with some sort of foam be a good choice for this?
2. Would sticking with bondo be the better option?
3. What kind of foam would I be able to use for a wearable helmet/armor? (if there is any)

In an earlier post it was mentioned that putting fiber glass in any resin would make it stronger. I've been considering putting this in the mix as well, but I am concerned about the sanding process if I do use it.

 

[cbh23]

Great series! I'm fallowing this all the way.

 

[joemc81]

Awesome work and great vids. I was concerned some with getting to this stage this has set me at ease a bit.

 

[tehjrow]

Just to be clear, this is what you do:
1.) Pepakura it
2.) Paint the outside with resin
3.) Rondo the inside
4.) Rondo the outside
5.) Sand
6.) Paint

I couldn't see in any video where you Rondo'd the outside of it. Do you just roll it around on the outside or do you use a brush?

Also, how would you rate the strength of Rondo only vs Fiberglass? If it's just Rondo, is that strong enough to wear?

 

[Carpathia]

Just to be clear, this is what you do:
1.) Pepakura it
2.) Paint the outside with resin
3.) Rondo the inside
4.) Rondo the outside
5.) Sand
6.) Paint

I couldn't see in any video where you Rondo'd the outside of it. Do you just roll it around on the outside or do you use a brush?

Also, how would you rate the strength of Rondo only vs Fiberglass? If it's just Rondo, is that strong enough to wear?

No no no. Do not apply rondo to the outside, you will lose any and all details you wish to have. You simply use BONDO body filler to smooth out the areas that need to be smoothed (ie faces that are to be round but are faceted due to the pep geometry).

If I were to rate rondo vs. fiberglass, I would say that fiberglass is stronger and lighter, but much more time consuming than rondo. If you need to harden your pep in a hurry and still want a good amount of strength, rondo is the way to go.

 

[BioDelta]

Wait Something dosent fit? Dont you have to bondo or fiderglass the outside? I got bondo-glass to do te outside with it so it will be hard.As for sanding im still trying to find a tortial that has a video to show me everything i need to do

 

[timmay916]

how many grits?

 

[mkshane81]

Wait Something dosent fit? Dont you have to bondo or fiderglass the outside? I got bondo-glass to do te outside with it so it will be hard.As for sanding im still trying to find a tortial that has a video to show me everything i need to do

You put resin, alone, on the outside. This gives it just enough rigidity to be able to strenghten, as well as a proper surface for the finishing agent to adhere to. The fiberglass work, or rondo work, is used on the INSIDE to strengthen the helmet. After that is where the bondo comes in for the finishing stage.

-Matt

 

[Mypointyhair]

Sorry to ask this, I'm sure it's probably in this thread somewhere. But, how much of this process makes the helmet wearable? How much of it would need to be done differently to be able to wear this? Thanks