How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

Status
Not open for further replies.
phixix said:
Thanks for the reply Ben! My friend is actually working on the Plasma cutter from Dead Space, and the Rondo cocktail he used was for applying to the outside of the gun rather than inside, is there a different mix reccomended for the outside? Thankfully the gun was resined beforehand so it's peeling off without much harm! We're really limited in terms of heat as working indoors means in someones livingroom and gassing the place out so we'll have to think of something else..

Here's what he's working on if it's any help~

[attachment=15736:DSCF0759.jpg]

-Phi



Pick up a trial kit of Roto It's non-toxic so you can do it inside. It's a 1 to 1, so easy to measure. To apply cut a small hole in the guns handle and pour inside in small batches. Then rotate the gun around to harden. You should be able to get quite a solid gun with just the trial kit. And it's not gonna break the bank.



List of international distributors
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BenStreeper said:
Pick up a trial kit of Roto It's non-toxic so you can do it inside.

I would like to question the non-toxic part. The following can be found in the technical bulletin for SmoothCast ROTO :



Warning: Fumes, which may be visible as this product starts to "gel" and cure, will dissipate with adequate ventilation. Only use this product with room size ventilation and do not inhale/breathe fumes.



Be Careful. Part A (Yellow Label) contains methylene diphenyldiisocyante. Vapors, which can be significant if heated or sprayed, may cause lung damage and sensitization.

This is the same warnings that are given with the 300-series. The only difference seems to be that the 300 series is said to contain methylene diphenyl isocyanate, while ROTO contains methylene diphenyl diisocyanate. From what I gather I even suspect the two are the same, just two ways of writing the same thing. Articles concerning these substances (example 1, example 2) state that inhaling the fumes might cause short term respiratory problems, and long term asthma, other respiratory ailments and sensitization. Using these products indoors and without a respirator doesn't seem very safe to me (which is what I would consider non-toxic).



Can you please elaborate on what information you have that it is non-toxic? I am a sceptic by nature, but I would sure love to be able to use the SmoothCast series indoors.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dark Fang said:
i have a dremel question will the flex adapter fit other detailers or just dremel brand



It will fit any brand with the same size screw base





AceHigh said:
I would like to question the non-toxic part. The following can be found in the technical bulletin for SmoothCast ROTO :





This is the same warnings that are given with the 300-series. The only difference seems to be that the 300 series is said to contain methylene diphenyl isocyanate, while ROTO contains methylene diphenyl diisocyanate. From what I gather I even suspect the two are the same, just two ways of writing the same thing. Articles concerning these substances (example 1, example 2) state that inhaling the fumes might cause short term respiratory problems, and long term asthma, other respiratory ailments and sensitization. Using these products indoors and without a respirator doesn't seem very safe to me (which is what I would consider non-toxic).



Can you please elaborate on what information you have that it is non-toxic? I am a sceptic by nature, but I would sure love to be able to use the SmoothCast series indoors.



Lol, from what I was told by the guys at reynolds this is legal info they must give when a product contains any sort of inhalant. 320 and roto are no more dangerous an inhalant than Hairspray. If you put your head inside a bag and spray your gonna have trouble but using it in a normal environment is fine. So how about I retract "Non-toxic" and replace it with "Less-Toxic" to help maintain a politically correct status for smooth-on



Here is your Official Warning from Smooth-on:



Warning:

Fumes, which may be visible as this product starts to “gel” and

cure, will dissipate with adequate ventilation. Only use this product with

room size ventilation and do not inhale/breathe fumes. Castings will be

extremely hot immediately following cure and may burn the skin. Let cool

to room temperature before handling. Demold time is directly proportional

to mass and mold configuration. Plastic will cure in 10 – 15 minutes at

room temperature but because the casting will be thin-walled, the plastic

may take longer to cure and you may want to wait 20 – 30 minutes before

demolding. Back-filling the hollow casting with a rigid foam (such as FoamiT!

® 5) provides reinforcement and even greater impact resistance. Foam

back-filling is recommended if castings will be subjected to temperatures

above 85°F / 30°C.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BenStreeper said:
Lol, from what I was told by the guys at reynolds this is legal info they must give when a product contains any sort of inhalant. 320 and roto are no more dangerous an inhalant than Hairspray. If you put your head inside a bag and spray your gonna have trouble but using it in a normal environment is fine. So how about I retract "Non-toxic" and replace it with "Less-Toxic" to help maintain a politically correct status for smooth-on

Care to explain just what I said to deserve such a patronizing attitude? Based on what other members have said about you, I was expecting a respectful reply, not one treating me like I'm some kind of idiot.



Edit: feel free to PM me if you have a problem with me, don't want to clutter your thread.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AceHigh said:
Care to explain just what I said to deserve such a patronizing attitude? Based on what other members have said about you, I was expecting a respectful reply, not one treating me like I'm some kind of idiot.



Edit: feel free to PM me if you have a problem with me, don't want to clutter your thread.



Sorry you felt that way the comment was what was told to me from Reynolds not what I was telling you. The lol was because although I guess it is a bit of a patronizing attitude when he said it I thought it was funny, mainly due to the fact that it's physically impossible to plastic inside of a bag (or at least for me cause I have a really big head). I wish you could hear the words the way I think they sound when I write them :( I promise it was not meant to insult. I like being corrected, as stated several times in this and many other of my posts: "I am not a professional" ;P And You sir are far from an I-D-1-0-T



Also I posted the "Official Warning" to cover Reynolds and Smooth-On as I have a very friendly relationship with them, and I would like to keep them protected.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BenStreeper said:
Sorry you felt that way the comment was what was told to me from Reynolds not what I was telling you. The lol was because although I guess it is a bit of a patronizing attitude when he said it I thought it was funny, mainly due to the fact that it's physically impossible to plastic inside of a bag (or at least for me cause I have a really big head). I wish you could hear the words the way I think they sound when I write them :( I promise it was not meant to insult. I like being corrected, as stated several times in this and many other of my posts: "I am not a professional" ;P And You sir are far from an I-D-1-0-T



Also I posted the "Official Warning" to cover Reynolds and Smooth-On as I have a very friendly relationship with them, and I would like to keep them protected.

Apology accepted. It was mainly the initial "lol" that felt condescending, like you were laughing at what I had written. Thanks for the explanation, no harm done. I really only got upset because you are basically the last person I expected attitude from.



I am not trying to correct you, I am trying to determine for sure what the toxicity(?) of SmoothCast is. I would be as happy as anybody if it is safe to use indoors, as I am confined to an apartment myself. I do understand the hair spray simile, but since I have found sources saying that the main substance of SmoothCast is toxic even in the short term, I would really like to be assured by more than word of mouth from a vendor. Would Reynolds, or SmoothOn themselves, be able to produce results of independent tests and the likes?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AceHigh said:
Would Reynolds, or SmoothOn themselves, be able to produce results of independent tests and the likes?



I doubt it, but I would like to point out that the two case studies/ examples you listed were on people who work in plants that use this stuff everyday in a very large quantity. If you were doing this I would urge more caution, however most of the people who use this product (which contains only small amounts of methylene diphenyl isocyanate and/or methylene diphenyl diisocyanate) will only be exposed for a very short period of time, and will not be exposed repeatedly or in its raw form. However if you would like to use me as a case study I use roto and 320 about once a month for the last 3 years. I don't smoke, drink, or do drugs. And to date have no respiratory problems or skin irritation. I don't know how scientific that is but we can ask some other members also :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BenStreeper said:
I doubt it, but I would like to point out that the two case studies/ examples you listed were on people who work in plants that use this stuff everyday in a very large quantity. If you were doing this I would urge more caution, however most of the people who use this product (which contains only small amounts of methylene diphenyl isocyanate and/or methylene diphenyl diisocyanate) will only be exposed for a very short period of time, and will not be exposed repeatedly or in its raw form. However if you would like to use me as a case study I use roto and 320 about once a month for the last 3 years. I don't smoke, drink, or do drugs. And to date have no respiratory problems or skin irritation. I don't know how scientific that is but we can ask some other members also :)

You raise very good points (which is exactly what I was looking for). I have yet to find an article about the short term effect, I'm not done looking though. I care a lot about safety, so I try to research a lot. I doubt I will start my own case study though, but thanks for the offer. :) I will not go as far and say that I think that SmoothCast is harmless, but you have convinced me enough to be able to use it without too much concern, albeit I'll be wearing a respirator when I do. Thanks for the discussion.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Message to Mr Streeper.



Says that i am unable to send you a personal message? Full?



Sorry just thought i would let you know. And i need to send ya a message concerning a little somethin somethin.



Thankyou Good Sir.



Cheers, Dave.
 
XxCALIBERxX said:
Message to Mr Streeper.



Says that i am unable to send you a personal message? Full?



Sorry just thought i would let you know. And i need to send ya a message concerning a little somethin somethin.



Thankyou Good Sir.



Cheers, Dave.



Lol, you'll have to buy me dinner first ;P



Message sent
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your video's are by far the best tutorials I have seen yet. Heck, I even like the music. :coolThis will help me out so much when i start to resin my armor.



A quick (or at least I hope they are quick) questions...

1) How many layers/ coats or resin do you use before going on to the rondo/ recommend?

2) How many layers/ coats of rondo do you use/ recommend?

3) Approximately how thick is the helmet after this process is compete?
 
Col Keller said:
Your video's are by far the best tutorials I have seen yet. Heck, I even like the music. :coolThis will help me out so much when i start to resin my armor.



A quick (or at least I hope they are quick) questions...

1) How many layers/ coats or resin do you use before going on to the rondo/ recommend?

2) How many layers/ coats of rondo do you use/ recommend?

3) Approximately how thick is the helmet after this process is compete?



1) 1 layer done in several sections



2) 1- 3 layers of rondo depending on the size of the piece the less rondo the more flexibility (legs are good with less rondo for example)



3) a stable helmet would be about 1/4 inch thick. This also allows you enough room to carve into the helmet while detailing.



Very good questions sir, keep 'em coming any time you have a new one.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is there a trick to gluing the tabs together because I'm finding it difficult to glue certain angles together. It's like you have to glue them in a certain order for the piece to bend in its intended direction. Anyone run into that issue?
 
OXM_Chase said:
Is there a trick to gluing the tabs together because I'm finding it difficult to glue certain angles together. It's like you have to glue them in a certain order for the piece to bend in its intended direction. Anyone run into that issue?



I glue from the center of the helmet out. That pretty much gets the right angle every time. LOL Right angle, I crack my self up
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A brief break: How to Vac form an odst visor.






Superwife deserves the credit for this amazing vac-formed visor. P.S. as of right now these are not cheap to make so if you want one you are better off (cheaper) buying from Sean or Link. This grade of petg sheeting is $18 a sheet, and right now it yields 1 visor
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Awesome, thanks Ben, that was very informative, i've actually always wondered how vac forming works. :D.



Questions:



1)Where pray tell can you get a hold of that plastic?

2)Is it possible to use a normal household vaccume cleaner or does it need to be a big hardcore one like yours?

And 3) does it have any adverse effects on the oven, like creating fumes within the oven that intoxicates food?



Thats all i got. Thanks. :D.



Cheers, Dave.
 
XxCALIBERxX said:
Awesome, thanks Ben, that was very informative, i've actually always wondered how vac forming works. :D .



Questions:



1)Where pray tell can you get a hold of that plastic?

2)Is it possible to use a normal household vaccume cleaner or does it need to be a big hardcore one like yours?

And 3) does it have any adverse effects on the oven, like creating fumes within the oven that intoxicates food?



Thats all i got. Thanks. :D .



Cheers, Dave.





1)Google search "PETG Plastic"for your closest plastic distributor.



2)And yes you can use any vacuum however the stronger the vacuum the more draw on the plastic, and the higher detailed the pulls will be, I got that one on sale for $80, so they aren't near the price they use to be.



3) not that I know of, I covered beneath the plastic with tin foil on the rack just in case of drip-page, and if you have your oven set and heated on the broil setting then the plastic itself is only in there for about 1 min. Not nearly long enough to degas (or so I've been told)



On a side note: the visor is the first piece I have had to use the oven to heat for. Only because the plastic I chose for it was thicker than the plastic I use for armor. normally I use 2 hotplates (leftover from college) that I sit in a square of bricks. Then I place the board on top of the bricks to heat. And I have always done this outside. I was having trouble on this and got "special" permission from the wife to use the oven (which was much easier).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Probably a stupid question, but how do you know which piece starts the top of the helmet cause I just start gluing pieces together when I happen to find their corresponding number. It results in some angles not bending like they're suppose to though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top