Keep your head down, there's two of us in here now

Status
Not open for further replies.
A piece of plexiglass in the center?? I hadn't considered that. Sounds like it would look really cool !

I originally had a hole in the center but was worried about fabrication difficulties. Currently, I am bringing the hole back. The overlapping drill hits don't seem to be a problem with my fab shop's DRC bot.
BatchPCB FAQ - Can I route exotic shapes?

They do make sideways RGB smd LEDs. With one color LEDs you can just use regular ones and mount them sideways. I am in the process of simplifying everything, speed production and keep costs down. RCB was the first thing to go.
At the time I wrote the 7 io comment I had 5 LEDs, one in the center and four on the sides. Pic below shows 10 LEDs driven by 5 channels.

No transistors needed. AVR chips can provide a maximum of 40mA per channel. I have no intention of going over that.
ATTiny25 Datasheet - Page 166

Slot holder is demonstrated below. USB connector has been moved off board. Switch removed, insert the card to light it up. The 10 blue LEDs are in a circle pattern and can do a neat spinning circle for a loading animation, then fade in and out after startup for an idling animation.

5428264092_dc21362b79.jpg
top_copper_silk_4 by thatdecade, on Flickr

The second board on the right is the connector board. Has an avr 6 pin programmer header and usb power connector. The 10x2 header is the connector shown below.

5427673321_e8b61fc548_m.jpg
A29114_M10X2 by thatdecade, on Flickr

Still on my todo list.
  • Finish routing traces.
  • Add a switch connect upon insertion (inserting cortana board can complete a circuit to turn on other lights in suit).
  • Add a battery power connection (alternative to usb)
  • Construct a prototype version of the circuit
  • Program some light animations
  • Order parts and do test fitting on 1:1 print out of the pcb
  • Some design work on the outer shell. (something like this)
 
Throwing one more idea out there.... what if the ai chip had a small microcontroller on it that were different with each chip and this device could do different things to the lights connected in the suit once plugged in?
 
are you planning to produce alot of them...? or just give people blueprints, or keep the design to yourself?
If I can get the design hammered out, can usually convince JlhR2 to assemble a bunch for me. JlhR2's the guy who helped with my last 405th run of battery indicator light kits.
405th Thread: Assault Rifle Lights - Details

what if the ai chip had a small microcontroller on it that were different with each chip and this device could do different things to the lights connected in the suit once plugged in?
Can do that with the current design. Need to work on one animation before I do any others.
 
Hey Dustin, what would be great a great help is trying to design up the outer shell casing, and fabricating these. The current idea would be to make halves and hollow out the inside for the pcb(s) (not sure yet how many) and then after a master has been made and approved to work, then mold/recast in clear resin. Then people can choose from there if they would like to paint the outer shell or leave clear etc.

I have no access to wood carving tools or mold making materials.

~James
 
I am not a sculptor. Best I can hope to do is make a wooden box or maybe a layered wooden box.

Since this is a small item, maybe slices would work. Idea being that you breakup the 3d model into slices then print out onto cardstock. Cut with an exacto then glue the stack together. A little sanding and a brush layer to keep the mold from sticking.
 
Well, about the case, as a fellow SparkFun customer, you probably saw the ads for Ponoko (or whatever it's called). I know there are already a bunch of 3D models for the chip out there, and if you can find somebody who will let you use his model, you could just scale it to fit around your PCB and 3D-print it. Might even be cheaper to make all the copies that way than to use it as a master to make casts off.

Now if you'll excuse me, I'll be sitting in a corner for a few hours to immerse myself in RGBless sadness :-(
 
Some math because I know Ventrue likes it.

Resistor Selection for microcontroller to LED
Code:
Simple
Il=(Vb-Vl)/(Rm+Rd)
.02=(5-3.4)/(12+x)

Expanded
Rd = ( (Vb - Vl) - (Il * Rm) ) / Il
Rd = Resister in series with LED
Vb = Voltage from Battery
Vl = Voltage drop on LED
Il = LED Forward Current
Rm = Restance output from microcontroller (12 ohm typical)

x=((5V-3.4V)-(.02A*12ohm))/0.02A
x=68 ohms

SuperCap Runtime
Code:
1000 ma-hr is 1 amp-hr. At 10 volts, that is 10 watt-hour.
converting to Joules:
10 watt hour x 3600 sec/hour = 36000 watt-sec, or 36000 Joules.

E = ½CV² = ½QV = ½Q²/C Energy in a cap in Joules

36000 = ½CV² = ½C(10)²
C = 720 F

---------------

C = 1.5 F

C = ½CV²

100mA for 1 hour
5.5V @ 100mA for 1 hour
1980 Joules


1980 = ½F(5.5)²
130 = F

What if F = 1.5
½(1.5)(5.5)² = C
C = 22

How long will 22 Joules run 100mA?
5.5V * .1A * 3600 = C = 1980

C = V * A * T
22 = 5.5 * 0.1 * T
40 seconds


What if we use six 0.005 A LEDs?
0.03 A
22 = 5.5 * 0.03 * T
T = 133 seconds =~ 2 minutes


80mcd is the highest I can find for 10mA
22/5.5/.06=67 seconds

At the same time I could have 500mcd for 20mA.
500/80=6.25 LEDs
I would need more than 6 dim LEDs to equal 1 !! of the bright LEDs, and I can
get the bright LED for only twice the mA cost.

1 giant blue LED and 4 green edge lit LEDs.
.002*5+.02=0.03

22/5.5/0.03=133 seconds =~ 2 minutes
 
Oww... i only understood parts of that... lol cant we just wire all the parts together cover it in electrical tape in call it a night....? jk
 
I think you should try to move the circle just a few millimetres further down (down when looking at the picture). The optimal place for its center in my opinion is just a little lower than the center of the whole chip, because the top of the chip is a bit narrower than the bottom.
 
Good eye, the center hole is 0.05 inches off center. This is actually on purpose. On the right side of the board 0.05 inches may need to be cut off the final board to make contact with the header.
Needs testing, contacts will either be 0.15 inches plus a 0.05 inch boarder or 0.15 inches with no boarder.

--------------------------
Wire routing is now complete. Got a little crazy, but I feel confident that it still looks alright and is symmetrical. Still need to add a wire header for an optional battery.

You can notice in the picture that there is a switched output in the upper right corner. Can connect lights, fans, etc to that spot. Will provide +5 volts only when the board is inserted.

5430017374_fd044051d1.jpg
top_5 by thatdecade, on Flickr
 
Only had one problem with the MissingSpartan7's pep, thing is HUGE. If you scale it down to my size you can fit dozens more slices on each page printed.
 
I like the one to one scale comparison it looks good. You are indeed great with electronics my friend!

Is anyone in here wanting the ability to power the cortana chip when not inserted in the suit, besides me that is?

~James
 
Maybe room for a super capacitor again. Plug it in, unplug it, runs for a few more dozen seconds before fading away.

Edit, actually I will leave a super cap off the main board. What I will provide is a wire connection to add a super cap. Can tuck the super cap somewhere inside the shell.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top