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s-meister said:
What is it about fiberglass strips? I have this mesh tape that people use for taping drywall. Could I use that?


Yes. That works brilliantly. Its what i used and i had no problems at all.
 
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joshua61991 said:
Also darthcalibar is that quote of yours from a book? I think I might have read it.


I didnt see this till just now. Um i really have no idea where ive heard that from. I thought i made it up but the other day someone said they'd heard it so i googled it and its all over the internet. So yeah i have no idea where it came from.
 
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I think it would be cool if you put speakers on the suit, but do it in a way that no one can see. And then play Halo opening song when you are walking around in the mall or store ( that would be cool). If you do it could you please put tutorials up.
 
I work for an engraving company, so I can help with that part: :)

If you want a name or other text etched into your armor, just root around in the Yellow Pages for sandblasting. Call the company, describe what you want, and see if they'll do it. You can sandblast anything (logos, text, etc) so long as you have good art, vector art being the best from Illustrator, CorelDRAW, or like programs. Best places for sandblasting is along fairly flat areas - curves are okay, so long as the the sandblasting mask doesn't have to travel over multiple angles. Make sure you let them know the size of your piece, some sandblasting units aren't big enough to hold the chest/back portion.

It'll cost a bit, sandblasting services aren't cheap, but a better solution that going after your armor with a dremel.
 
Darthcalibar said:
I just tested a can of olive drab spray paint the other day and I think its a pretty darn good match. Also go to Krylon.com and Rustoleum.com and check out their colors.

When you go to those websites you have to remember that the color you are seeing on there is an approximate color because not everyone's computer monitors are going to be adjusted the same way. If you are going to use a site like Krylon.com then be willing to print the color sample (even then it might not be the exact same as what the spray paint color is, or as the color of the sample on your screen) or you can get the names of several ones that you believe will match the color you want. With those names of colors in hand, go down to the hardware store or a paint store and do a few test sprays (discreetly).

Also if you want to judge the color on something is it best to try and find natural lighting, meaning, GO OUTSIDE and look at it in the sunlight. Florescent and other types of light bulbs have blue or yellow tints to them which can skew color matching. Also, remember that you are going to be using a base color (green for the MC suit) and then several highlights (worn metal colors, hammered silver and possibly some tans depending on how u detail it) and shadow colors (black and possibly a dark gray or brown for the parts that are worn/worked into the creases and crevasse of the armor).

Also when looking for spray paints make sure that the paint that you pick up is ok to use on fiberglass/resin. And if you have used ANY foam on your helmet at all by the time your ready to paint it, I would suggest removing it if possible. Spray paint contains acid to help eat away the top layer of whatever its being applied to in order to provide a better bond. Foam + spray paint = Death. Seriously, the fumes that are put off when applying spray paint to foam are EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS! I can't stress that enough.

That's my 2 cents though on painting.
 
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Just a bit on the visor fist. Some I see are two layered motorcycle visors. The base layer and the cut out for the second raised layer. some people use sheet plastic for the second layer as it is a much more subtle look. its all personal preferance.

As far as the weathering there is a technique that plastic modelers use on model airplanes and such. A base layer of silver is put on then sealed with clear coat (again personal preferance. Some people use gloss and some use flat clear coats. gloss tends to be a bit more dureable for the sealer purpose. It may make the silver look too shiny compared to the final top color but just seal the whole proccess, final coleor, powders and washes included, with a final uniform clear coat.) after silver is sealed then rock salt is applied to surface that u want silver and then salt recieves a spray of water to moisten and partly melt salt together. all of the final colors are applied and dried. Then simply wipe off the salt. It will come off easily and will leave behind realistic paint chips. when paint chips it chips in random patterns and they tend to have sharp jagged edges. just a little fyi.. finescale modeler did an article a bit back and they may have it on their web site.

ZONKRE
 
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