My First Assault Rifle Build

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that's one loaded SCAR :p looking good, but it looks too thin I think.

Yeah I did think that but it's not too thin to look really bad. I am not that bothered as this build is the first time I have worked with wood and it was more about the learning proccess than accurate scaling. When I do my MA5 I will be paying more attention to all the details of the build.
 
Things are moving along in this build. >.> Looks like you're not only awesome with foam, but also great with sturdy materials too. More pweeze. :D
 
Rondo info needed please. Hey guys I have read up on how to make rondo etc, going to use Streepers tutorial as he knows what he is talkin about. The one thing I was wondering is how sandable is it? Basically because I have a load of resin and bondo left from not making my glassed iron man suit and I was thinking this......

Pep my MA5C in card stock with the tabs external, resin coat it, coat internally with rondo, sand away resin and card to leave just the rondo then sand smooth and detail with filler. Any opinions would be great :)
 
Hmmm....never attempted this, but its funny because I thought exactly the same thing the other day. My only concern would be how to get to the deep cut areas to remove the paper layer.

-Matt
 
I have been pondering the same but I am thinking my Dremel bits should just reach. Either way I am going to have a go or all that bondo and resin goes to waste so I got nothing to lose really. Once I go get some more card stock I will let you know how it goes so keep watching this space :)
 
Rondo info needed please. Hey guys I have read up on how to make rondo etc, going to use Streepers tutorial as he knows what he is talkin about. The one thing I was wondering is how sandable is it? Basically because I have a load of resin and bondo left from not making my glassed iron man suit and I was thinking this......

Pep my MA5C in card stock with the tabs external, resin coat it, coat internally with rondo, sand away resin and card to leave just the rondo then sand smooth and detail with filler. Any opinions would be great :)

Hey Drack,
I'll chime in here. I have been testing out rondo mix ratios and what not, and have come up with some info with regards to it. I plan on doing a video tut on my findings. What i did was test different amounts of resin to bondo to see what the strength against impact and pressure, sandability and ridgidity. All the tests that I did used 100ml of bondo. I then mixed 4 test batches in plastic trays using 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4 amount of resin to bondo. These are my findings;
1/4 - warm while curing, sands well, has deflection under pressure, dropped from 3 feet shatteres.
1/2 - warmer while curing, sands cleaner, has less deflection under pressure, dropped from 3 feet, small crack.
3/4 - hot while curing, sands well, less deflection than the 1/2 mix, dropped from 3 feet, scratched.
4/4 - quite hot while curing, more work to sand, almost no deflection but hear cracking noises, droped nothing.

With regards to sanding with tabs out, resin outside and in. It will assure that the paper gets saturated. If cutting in with detail, avoid hot glue it causes much more work when you hit it with sand paper and will have to be dug out. I would suggest superglue instead, also use the super glue on any paper without resin that may surface during sanding.

In my build i use both 1/4, 1/2 ratios to build strength inside the pieces and have had good success working with them.

Cherrs,
Cereal.
 
Hey Drack,
I'll chime in here. I have been testing out rondo mix ratios and what not, and have come up with some info with regards to it. I plan on doing a video tut on my findings. What i did was test different amounts of resin to bondo to see what the strength against impact and pressure, sandability and ridgidity. All the tests that I did used 100ml of bondo. I then mixed 4 test batches in plastic trays using 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4 amount of resin to bondo. These are my findings;
1/4 - warm while curing, sands well, has deflection under pressure, dropped from 3 feet shatteres.
1/2 - warmer while curing, sands cleaner, has less deflection under pressure, dropped from 3 feet, small crack.
3/4 - hot while curing, sands well, less deflection than the 1/2 mix, dropped from 3 feet, scratched.
4/4 - quite hot while curing, more work to sand, almost no deflection but hear cracking noises, droped nothing.

With regards to sanding with tabs out, resin outside and in. It will assure that the paper gets saturated. If cutting in with detail, avoid hot glue it causes much more work when you hit it with sand paper and will have to be dug out. I would suggest superglue instead, also use the super glue on any paper without resin that may surface during sanding.

In my build i use both 1/4, 1/2 ratios to build strength inside the pieces and have had good success working with them.

Cherrs,
Cereal.

Great info this will come in very handy

Also the gun is looking great Drack totally a chief worthy gun so far, def got my sub for this thread :D
 
Wow thank you cereal that is exactly the answer I needed. Heading out today to stock up on card and gunna get started on it. As for the glue I use I found copydex (a rubber glue) works perfect with pep. There is pretty much no drying time and if you make a mistake you can easy pull the pieces apart. I used it on my Ironman MK VI pep and made the entire suit very quickly. My method was to apply thin layers to both peices of the card, while applying glue to the second piece of card the first would have gone slightly tacky. When you then put the two together they instantly bonded. The glue is strong enough to hold the bits together and with care were easy to pull apart. There was however one down side. Over a long period of time the glue would warp a little. Of course to solve any issues all you have to do is resin the piece to avoid this.
 
wow...Cereal Killl3r, that is very good info.

What ever method you use, I'm sure you will take to the max.:cool
 
Wow thank you cereal that is exactly the answer I needed. Heading out today to stock up on card and gunna get started on it. As for the glue I use I found copydex (a rubber glue) works perfect with pep. There is pretty much no drying time and if you make a mistake you can easy pull the pieces apart. I used it on my Ironman MK VI pep and made the entire suit very quickly. My method was to apply thin layers to both peices of the card, while applying glue to the second piece of card the first would have gone slightly tacky. When you then put the two together they instantly bonded. The glue is strong enough to hold the bits together and with care were easy to pull apart. There was however one down side. Over a long period of time the glue would warp a little. Of course to solve any issues all you have to do is resin the piece to avoid this.

No problem, hope the info helps out!
Which ever way you go im sure the project will come out just fine.
Cheers,
Cereal
 
That M8 is nuts drack. I'm sure you can get several ideas from reading through that build.. I've no doubt yours will be amazing as well.:D
 
Lots of new pics of what I have been up to this week :)

Found the diamond textured rubber I was looking for that served well for making the handle grips and the recoil pad.

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Got some detailing done on the gun in PVC foam board

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Was looking over Tactonyx's weapon thread and thought I should step up my game and started on my barrel

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The barrels aren't fixed yet as I have yet to drill into the gun so they will be set further in. I can't do this tonight because its dark and the neighbours probably won't like me if I do it now :p
 
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