Prettyfloralbonnet
Jr Member
A few updates or rather things I wanted to point out before I consider this first build "finished". It's far from finished but any future changes will likely involve remaking pieces to solve issues such as leg mobility (shins, thighs) and scale issues (forearms, shoulders which were reduced by 10%).
In some of my photos above it's rather irritating to notice my face can be seen through the visor when a flash photo is taken. Since the issue is light reflecting off my face and back through the visor I considered tinting film but was concerned with it's ability to be shaped. Luckily, I found the following product at my local motorcycle supply store:
http://www.chrome-addiction.com/p-f...ield-amber-arai-271033-10197888.php?r=froogle
It's an anti-fog shield in an amber color in a standard size made to fit most popular visors. It's of course meant to go on the outside but it worked just fine backwards.
You can see the difference between the amber-colored film and the regular HJC replacement visor. I tried numerous angles, lighting situations, camera flash on and off and it successfully fixed the see-through problem I was having. Although with the $20 cost I'd rather just go the double visor route on my next helmet.
In this next photo there are two things I wanted to point out:
First, is the white stencil plastic I used to diffuse the LED lights. There was still a spotlight effect on a few of the panels but it's not really noticeable in photos. I found this frosted white plastic at our local hobby store: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=150244
Second, is the black foamies I used for the "vents" as some folks call them on the back. In my rush to complete the chest for the zombie walk I cut out those vents out of frustration since I couldn't seem to sand them to a detail that I liked. All I did was use the pepped pieces as a template and glued them together in layers and coated in Plastidip. It does look a tad tacky but it's still far better than the over-resined piece I had there before.
Finally, an inside shot of the back chest piece to give an idea of how I mounted most of my LED's. I built little boxes out of tongue depressers, drilled a 3/16" hole in the top and stuck the LED through. The LED's had just the right viewing angle so that at 3/4" (width of depressers) I had the most effective lighting spot over the diffuser panels. It too looks tacky but was an effective and fast way for mounting the 25+ LED's in the suit.
Bought the LED's from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Ele...T2DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321521853&sr=8-1
Unless I stumble across more photos from the Anniversary release these will likely be the last completed suit photos I post until I start to rebuild...
I welcome any questions regarding how I solved one problem or another or explaining mistakes or lessons learned from this first suit.
In some of my photos above it's rather irritating to notice my face can be seen through the visor when a flash photo is taken. Since the issue is light reflecting off my face and back through the visor I considered tinting film but was concerned with it's ability to be shaped. Luckily, I found the following product at my local motorcycle supply store:
http://www.chrome-addiction.com/p-f...ield-amber-arai-271033-10197888.php?r=froogle
It's an anti-fog shield in an amber color in a standard size made to fit most popular visors. It's of course meant to go on the outside but it worked just fine backwards.
You can see the difference between the amber-colored film and the regular HJC replacement visor. I tried numerous angles, lighting situations, camera flash on and off and it successfully fixed the see-through problem I was having. Although with the $20 cost I'd rather just go the double visor route on my next helmet.
In this next photo there are two things I wanted to point out:
First, is the white stencil plastic I used to diffuse the LED lights. There was still a spotlight effect on a few of the panels but it's not really noticeable in photos. I found this frosted white plastic at our local hobby store: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=150244
Second, is the black foamies I used for the "vents" as some folks call them on the back. In my rush to complete the chest for the zombie walk I cut out those vents out of frustration since I couldn't seem to sand them to a detail that I liked. All I did was use the pepped pieces as a template and glued them together in layers and coated in Plastidip. It does look a tad tacky but it's still far better than the over-resined piece I had there before.
Finally, an inside shot of the back chest piece to give an idea of how I mounted most of my LED's. I built little boxes out of tongue depressers, drilled a 3/16" hole in the top and stuck the LED through. The LED's had just the right viewing angle so that at 3/4" (width of depressers) I had the most effective lighting spot over the diffuser panels. It too looks tacky but was an effective and fast way for mounting the 25+ LED's in the suit.
Bought the LED's from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Ele...T2DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321521853&sr=8-1
Unless I stumble across more photos from the Anniversary release these will likely be the last completed suit photos I post until I start to rebuild...
I welcome any questions regarding how I solved one problem or another or explaining mistakes or lessons learned from this first suit.
I'm especially impressed by the shotgun. Typically I look at the last page of the thread first and then go back and look through and when I saw the completed shotgun I just thought "that looks amazing" and was even more impressed when I saw it in progress. Keep up the good work, you're doing great. I can't wait to see what you come up with next.
