Retralpha's First Build - Halo Reach Noble 8

[Retralpha]

Progress

For the record too, I plan on buying some paint varnish ( the only thing I could potentially get here) to just strengthen the layers of paper clay and other stuff. Thanks to it I have got a pretty sturdy helmet. Which is rigid enough to stop 97% of cracks.....? This will be nessasary as to get a smooth surface when using paperclay, the top layer really has to be a thin layer of spackling ( my main ingredient )

 

[EVAkura]

I would say, run with it! Looks like you have it handled really well and also have a good plan in mind. Not only that, but I think you will be careful not to drop it because you know its strength (or weakness for that matter).

Keep us posted on progress as it seems like you are moving forward nicely. You are doing extremely well at adapting and overcoming uncommon issues and lack of "traditional" mediums.

 

[Retralpha]

Thanks so much EVAkura for the extra boost in morale.

I still think it needs more inner strength, but I cant do that until I go shopping in a few days so Im probably going to sand the top.

I also plan on making a help thread for people in my situation regarding materials after I finish this helmet. I am not sure on how many people will apply to it, but I think it would help the community. I would love to help people who have to face the same frustration as I.

 

[Redshirt]

Thanks so much EVAkura for the extra boost in morale.

I still think it needs more inner strength, but I cant do that until I go shopping in a few days so Im probably going to sand the top.

I also plan on making a help thread for people in my situation regarding materials after I finish this helmet. I am not sure on how many people will apply to it, but I think it would help the community. I would love to help people who have to face the same frustration as I.

Here's a very old-school answer from before the advent of fiberglass. Any fiber, sufficiently bonded, will add strength to your helmet. Soak cloth in liquid paint, glue, Mod-Podge, or even the floor wax I suggested earlier and apply it to the interior. While not fiberglass, it will add a surprising amount of strength. It just takes longer to dry. I recommend not doing the whole helmet at once if you use an acrylic or water-based material to reduce the risk of warping.

Redshirt

 

[Retralpha]

Would something like gause be good, or a thicker cloth like a t-shirt be better?
It sounds like a great idea for me, seeing that I have immediate assess to the materials listed above.

Most of the helmet is fine, I just would love this alternative to use for the trim around the opening of the helmet.

 

[Mr Wilson]

Would something like gause be good, or a thicker cloth like a t-shirt be better?
It sounds like a great idea for me, seeing that I have immediate assess to the materials listed above.

Most of the helmet is fine, I just would love this alternative to use for the trim around the opening of the helmet.

Actually I have read about the 'tshirt' method in a thread somewhere. I can't remember where exactly. Maybe try searching it but I know someone was asking about it.

 

[Redshirt]

Gauze could be fine and is easy to work with. You would want several thicknesses of the cloth. Gauze mixed with plaster is still used to make casts for setting broken bones. Not suggesting you use plaster, just that gauze with paint or other materials would work to stiffen your project.

Looking ahead, when it comes time to finish your surfaces if you don't have spray plasti-dip or rubberized automotive undercoating, you can texture your surface and hide some flaws by blowing fine sand onto a wet coating of paint, then spraying you desired color over the sand coat after it dries. It looks really good, but it will scratch anything you rub into. Give my cardboard build thread a look for ideas. I really was limited like you in the materials I had available.

Keep up the great work. It's great to see a build overcome challenges to hit the goal.

Redshirt

 

[Retralpha]

So after applying a layer of gauze mixed with PVA glue and some spackling compound for that extra lovely strength, I applied several layers of PVA glue to effectively create a shell for the spackling compound. However perfect it may be, it can be ripped apart very easily by sharp objects. The layer of PVA should help avoid such nightmares.

here's a pic of the probably paint ready helmet.

And the PVA glue if you wanted to know what kind

 

[EVAkura]

pictures are not showing up

 

[Retralpha]

pictures are not showing up

Should be fixed now

 

[EVAkura]

It is certainly looking good. I am curious as to how it will come out when painted.

What type of paint are you planning on using?

Keep up the great work, and thanks for providing pictures... especially of the adhesive (latex based instead of vinyl based... interesting)!

 

[Retralpha]

It is certainly looking good. I am curious as to how it will come out when painted.

What type of paint are you planning on using?

Keep up the great work, and thanks for providing pictures... especially of the adhesive (latex based instead of vinyl based... interesting)!

Latex based PVA was just cheaper, and because I'm covering it in spray paint, it should stay waterproof.
Here are some decals I will be using (don't scream, I said it was going to be a custom build)

And the helmet without decals and in need of some more details.

 

[EVAkura]

That helmet is coming along so nicely! The paint really put it into perspective and I can't wait to see it with the decals on it and a visor installed.

Awesome job, especially considering all of the massive hurdles you have overcome to produce it!

 

[Retralpha]

Everything paint and decal wise is done! Now I'm waiting on a visor (the test fit model inside the helm), and a clear matt coating. I'm having issues with that, because the only can I can find, is a German Varnish Spray, which is way out of my price range.

Decals!

Tilt view with the test visor

Rear of the helmet

Side 'worm-eye-view'

 

[glasscutter]

Congratulations on sticking with the build! The obstacles you faced would have stopped most from trying. Well done.

 

[Redshirt]

You can make a brushable clear matte finish by adding baking soda to a clear gloss coating. It does run the risk of picking up and diluting your weathering.

Redshirt

 

[Retralpha]

You can make a brushable clear matte finish by adding baking soda to a clear gloss coating. It does run the risk of picking up and diluting your weathering.[/I]

I went shopping today to try and find a visor and matte varnish. Both shops I knew of that sold these items were closed; due to 2 different festivals on the same day which I were not aware of. (Issues of Malaysia)

I am going out of town for 3 days so I can make another attempt on Thursday to try and get a visor and matte varnish. If I cannot find varnish on Thursday I will probably just buy it on Amazon. (I cant run the risk of my weathering being ruined. Its watered down paint so the strength of it is terrible)

 

[Retralpha]

Ive bought a visor and below are some pictures of the cutting process, but the visor is still not fully cut. Reason being, that it takes so long without a dremel. If I owned one (which I couldnt even buy here) the job would've taken 10minutes max.

I have to Drill holes around the cut line and saw though these drilled holes then finally file down the rough edges as a alternative. Another repeat phrase in my thread :/

 

[Redshirt]

Keep at it! Keep proving what can be accomplished without space-age tech or a big budget.

You should cover your visor entirely in masking tape while working on it. You'll significantly reduce the risk of cracking and protect the surface from scratches. If you can't cover the whole thing, cover the areas you are cutting or filing.

Redshirt

 

[ianaconda]

i have the same problem i cant find resin or fiber glass here in egypt
so keep the great work
and please tell me exactly what helped you when you creat your helmet out of cardboard because that what iam working with now
thanks again