Revolutionary New Way To Finish Pep Pieces

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JSwift said:
I think it might work great for weapons. Going to give this method a shot. Thanks for posting!



Was actually making the new SMG pep file and planning to use this technique on it, as it sounds pretty good. The only thing though is that you can fill the pep file weapon with only the rondo mixture; how would you go about applying the fiberglass pieces? Unless you were to fill the entire weapon with just rondo, and for larger weapons that's a lot of rondo =\!
 
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Shade said:
Sounds promising, can't wait for video. Can we say Sticky yet?

Haha, well if you guys like the video i dont see why not :)



ACDCrockr209 said:
If you say that this stuff can make my armor sexy, i'll try it!!!



Would this technique work on the inside of weapons?





-Pony

i dont see why not, i plan on using it on the inside of my splaser to save myself years of bondo work :) lol



Adulese said:
I'm actually quite impressed that you thought of doing something like this. Any chance we could get a mixture ratio for this new Rondo, or did you just use a bunch of different mixtures.



- Adulese

1:1 resin to bondo. 2x the hardener needed for the amount of resin and no cream catalyst necessary



phenry said:
I'd have to say this is the first time I've seen a "new method" thread actually pan out to be awesome. I'm subscribed and can't wait to hear how this works out for other people.

:D glad to hear. i've been stalking this site for over 2 years but never wanted to actually join until i was either building armor or had something incredible to offer. I hope this method helps all of you! i love the 405th and all i wanted was to give you guys something that makes armor building easier. I think ive achieved that :)



ForgedReclaimer said:
I have no input because i haven't used fiberglass or bondo before but when i get to that point THIS is what im doing, great work and good idea.

Glad to hear :) i assure you won't be disappointed



Was actually making the new SMG pep file and planning to use this technique on it, as it sounds pretty good. The only thing though is that you can fill the pep file weapon with only the rondo mixture; how would you go about applying the fiberglass pieces? Unless you were to fill the entire weapon with just rondo, and for larger weapons that's a lot of rondo =\!



Well for tiny weapons like a pistol, filling it with just rondo is not completely out of the question. for any larger weapon like smg's, assault rifles, and my splaser, i would suggest building it in two halves- mud glass the inside of both and then bond them together with fiberglass, resin, and glue.
 
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How does the different in weight stack up to the conventional way, or is there even a noticeable difference? Also, could you use the same concept but instead of using bondo, use fiberglass resin jelly? If not, what what would be the difference between the two in the end?
 
I am about to film the tutorial video, i will post it in the first post in about an hour and a half.



SirPalesAlot said:
How does the different in weight stack up to the conventional way, or is there even a noticeable difference? Also, could you use the same concept but instead of using bondo, use fiberglass resin jelly? If not, what what would be the difference between the two in the end?

very similar weight but i would say that mud glassing is a tad lighter.

I have never used said jelly so i can't comment but you should experiment and get back to us :)



Haven923 said:
You may have discovered a new method to making weapons, too :eek



i hope so. it's like a cheap way to slushcast, instead of having to buy smoothcast 320 and sloshing it in the pep piece its just rondo, i would argue the mud glass is even stronger.
 
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Trinityblue said:
Its brilliant. Nice work, I wish you had posted it sooner. I will be trying this probly later on this week or the next.



thanks man. hey, with the speed this offers why not make a whole other suit of armor?? Check out the video tut in the first post (in about 5 minutes)
 
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The only problem I see with this is resin is not exactly a cheap material and when you add in the additional cost of the extra Bondo you are using you might as well spring for some smoothcast. Smoothcast seems better because the fumes are no where near as dangerous and is way lighter than rondocasting an entire suit.
 
P32 said:
The only problem I see with this is resin is not exactly a cheap material and when you add in the additional cost of the extra Bondo you are using you might as well spring for some smoothcast. Smoothcast seems better because the fumes are no where near as dangerous and is way lighter than rondocasting an entire suit.



i respectfully disagree. 1 can of resin and 1 quart of bondo ($15) is enough for two and a half large pep pieces (helmet, shin, and hand plate basically). A smoothcast trial kit ($30) does one and a half pieces, is far more brittle/prone to shattering, and is just all around not as strong.



Costs compared to the traditional resin, fiberglass, and then bondo way are similar if not even more expensive. When i mud glass i use significantly less bondo than i would if i did the same pep piece the traditional way, and an equal amount of fiberglass mat and resin.



Thus, if anything MUD GLASSING offers a stronger, cheaper, faster, and detail saving way to finish your pep pieces :)
 
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Tandhem said:
i respectfully disagree. 1 can of resin and 1 quart of bondo ($15) is enough for two and a half large pep pieces (helmet, shin, and hand plate basically). A smoothcast trial kit ($30) does one and a half pieces, is far more brittle/prone to shattering, and is just all around not as strong.



Costs compared to the traditional resin, fiberglass, and then bondo way are similar if not even more expensive. When i mud glass i use significantly less bondo than i would if i did the same pep piece the traditional way, and an equal amount of fiberglass mat and resin.



Thus, if anything MUD GLASSING offers a stronger, cheaper, faster, and detail saving way to finish your pep pieces :)



Well if you notice I did say that smootcasting it would be a bit more expensive, but I said in my opinion it is worth it because there are less fumes and the finished product would weigh less. Considering that you would need roughly a gallon of each to strengthen a suit you are looking at roughly 20 pounds of added weight and that is not even adding in the weight of the bondo you use for detailing.
 
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agreed agreed, it will be heavier. but not that heavy.



I am willing to sacrifice a little extra weight (i mean the shin weighs maybe 2 pounds, completed...) to save quite a bit of money (smoothcasting all 16 pieces of armor would cost around $300, while mud glassing costs under $80) and for the added strength, and the fact that you will not be getting any cracks (like smoothcast would on the inside or bondo would on the outside) if dropped.
 
Tandhem said:
agreed agreed, it will be heavier. but not that heavy.



I am willing to sacrifice a little extra weight (i mean the shin weighs maybe 2 pounds, completed...) to save quite a bit of money (smoothcasting all 16 pieces of armor would cost around $300, while mud glassing costs under $80) and for the added strength, and the fact that you will not be getting any cracks (like smoothcast would on the inside or bondo would on the outside) if dropped.



$300? What are you basing that number on? A gallon kit of smoothcast is roughly $80 and that should get you through most of a suit.
 
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P32 said:
$300? What are you basing that number on? A gallon kit of smoothcast is roughly $80 and that should get you through most of a suit.

My apologies, i was thinking of the price of silicone :pbut yeh i'd say a gallon and a half would do a whole suit so around $130, but i also fudged the numbers of resin and bondo. a gallon of body filler ($15) and 3 cans of resin would do most of the suit which is only about $40. so still significantly lower. idk, even if i had the money i prefer mud glassings strength. white plastic will simply never be stronger than fiberglass or less prone to cracking





VIDEO IN FIRST POST IS A GO :) HOPE YOU GUYS LOVE IT
 
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cheers for the video, but damn man, you need a respirator! Edit:Missed the end bit before I posted, but yeah, it does seem awesome, this will make weapon builds sooo much easier!
 
mightymints said:
cheers for the video, but damn man, you need a respirator!

haha i know i know, i dont have any editing software so i knew id have to talk throughout the whole video and i tried it once with a respirator on and it was horrible, so i took one for the team on this video. my lungs will regret so u guys better enjoy it :)
 
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hehe yeah, i just edited before you posted. Yesterday was the first time i used bondo with no respirator as i forgot it was around my neck, and I actually had a bad nights sleep. My lungs feel like they have tightened up slightly today!
 
Ok, video in first post is complete with annotations. i really suggest anyone who puts the time and effort into building HD pep pieces to try mud glassing. the old bondo method was great for the old pep fyles that were extremely polygonal and had little detail, but now that we have great new files, we have great new methods. The evolution of armor building :)
 
Tandhem said:
MUD GLASSING TUTORIAL:



So when i was making my Mk VI helmet, all was going well and when it came time to bondo the entire exterior, i did. However that was two weeks ago and i am very discouraged at the amount of sanding needeed and all the HD details the bondo covered so I thought there must be another way! and let me tell you cousin, there is!



It goes Like this:

Once the piece is pepped you cover it in a coat of resin. Pretty normal i know, but this is where the normality ends. What you do next is mix up some nice soupy rondo mud (1:1 or 4:5 bondo to resin i find best) and pour it inside of your pep piece, keeping it always moving so as to cover many ares and seal seams. Before The mud begins to coagulate, lay down some soft white fiberglass mat on top for extra extra strength. Do this in small sections inside your piece until it is completely covered. As we all know, many pep pieces are sharp where the should be smooth. NOT a Problem! All you now need is to take your fancy 320 grit sandpaper and smooth it to perfection and follow it with 600 grit to make it like glass and ready to be painted. I did an entire HD shin piece like this in one day and i could not be happier with the results. The piece is rock hard, water proof, and has all its original datail.



Side note: Many pep pieces do lack detail that is generally added in the original bondo-ing process. Again, not a problem. Simply bondo these parts directly atop your resin exterior and sand the small portion to perfection.





The Gist: If you want beautiful high detail armor in 1/3 of the time i would highly suggest using my method of MUD GLASSING. i really suggest anyone who puts the time and effort into building HD pep pieces to this method. the old bondo method was great for the old pep files that were extremely polygonal and had little detail, but now that we have great new files, we have great new methods. The evolution of armor building :)



Here's the tutorial I made for you guys. Sorry, it is just one take and doesn't have any fancy editing, but i think it answers all of your questions. If it doesn't just post 'em up and I'll be glad to answer :)



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HuYb50tsGo[/media]

Here are the pics of my beautiful, solid shin that went from right out of the printer this morning, to being ready for primer and paint as we speak----

009.jpg


UGH beautiful beautiful detail achieved!

011.jpg


The smooth mud glass also ceases to create the jagged interior than normal resin+mat is famous for

012.jpg




Feel free to critique this method or ask any questions you might have. I have done the old way and i will never go back- mud glassing is the way for me now :)



p.s. this shin model is the smooth HD model redone by MrOreo123- a good man





Oh My God.

I almost cried it was so flawless.





funny-pictures-kittens-hugs-before-.jpg
 
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Tandhem said:
thanks man. hey, with the speed this offers why not make a whole other suit of armor?? Check out the video tut in the first post (in about 5 minutes)



I did nice, way nice and question for those who mentioned applying the techniqe to weapons, assuming they are pepped, how would you go about getting the rondo on the inside? The only way i can think of is to cut it in half like a sand which and epoxy it back together. Am i any where near the target with that or am I over looking a simpler way of doing it.
 
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Great video! My only question now is this: can you use the exact same method on the outside? If so, how do you apply it to the outside of a pep so that it retains all of the details like you have on the outside of your shin piece?
 
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