Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.

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Ironman neck scaling guide :)


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First get your neck on screen like the image above. Zoom till "B" is 100mm across on screen then measure "A" (about 56mm, my office light wasn't on and I have lots of junk in the way of the light switch). You now know your neck opening is 56% of the total width "B". We will call the percentage "C". So the equation is A/C X 100=B. So measure your RL neck width, mine is 140mm including the thickness of my foam. 140/56X100=250. So the total width of my neck piece is 250mm.

Hope this should sort out your problem :)

Tom.

Edit: You may want to add a little to YOUR neck width so you have a bit of space in there or you might find it a little tight. I think I added 10mm so there is a 5mm gap all the way around.

Drack - you rock man! Thanks for all that effort dude. I'm just tweaking the helmet now with padding, lighting and faceplate mechanism then I will be onto the neck next.

Cheers bloke!
 
All I had this afternoon was the phone camera so excuse the low quality of the images this time around.....

First, I had to cut a section out of the back of the helmet to allow my fat head through. I will hinge this in the centre and find some fasteners for the sides. Some guys have used powerful magnets, but I might look around for alternatives.

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I spent about $5 at Bunnings hardware today to buy this soft foam rubber. Much softer than the foam mat some guys build suits from, but firm enough to support itself.

I made templates out of cardboard to fit inside the helmet in manageable sized pieces. Once I worked out the size and shape of the padding, I then traced it onto the rubber and cut it out.

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I found gluing with the hot-glue was easiest to position the piece in place, then glue a small part of it, usually in the centre to hold it in place. Then it was just a matter of gluing the edges bit at a time.

I've left a little protruding past the edge of the helmet so the faceplate has an edge to seat on for a snug seal. The exposed textured rubber looks great in the cheek depressions.

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First off helmet is coming together really well. Was just wondering have you fixed the rubber in yet cause I will be padding my helmet out too but realised there will need to be gaps for the hinges, servo arms and channels for wiring. For my wires I have 3mm plastic tubes I bought from a model train shop so they can be fed through them to keep it all nice and tidy. Although now I think on it I might use black rubber tubbing to save on heating and bending the plastic tubes.

Also how you doing your neck? Foam or filler? Either way before go ahead with a piece I now cut out some of the pep, let's say the top ring of the neck, then tape it together, slip it round my neck just to make sure the scaling is right. This saves a lot of time and mistakes.

Anyways looking great man and glad I could help out with the neck scaling problem.
Tom.
 
First off helmet is coming together really well. Was just wondering have you fixed the rubber in yet cause I will be padding my helmet out too but realised there will need to be gaps for the hinges, servo arms and channels for wiring. For my wires I have 3mm plastic tubes I bought from a model train shop so they can be fed through them to keep it all nice and tidy. Although now I think on it I might use black rubber tubbing to save on heating and bending the plastic tubes.

Also how you doing your neck? Foam or filler? Either way before go ahead with a piece I now cut out some of the pep, let's say the top ring of the neck, then tape it together, slip it round my neck just to make sure the scaling is right. This saves a lot of time and mistakes.

Anyways looking great man and glad I could help out with the neck scaling problem.
Tom.

I had that in mind yes. When it comes to installing wires etc, I can cut and remove parts of the foam where needed. I really want to do the neck and rest of the suit in the same hard pep/fibreglass/bondo style, but that means for the flexibility of the neck, I am going to have to work on some extreme modifying to make the sections move without showing gaps. I have a loose plan already, but I will reveal it as I go. ;)

Thanks again Drack.
 
Well I hear a lot of people talk about flexable necks but mine isn't flexable. The only advantage of a foam neck is comfort really. But if you want the challenge then go for it :). I will add if you look at the shapes of each neck rib, as it were, then they don't move well together if fixed with say elastic or such.

Tom.
 
For the neck seal you could pep and harden it, smooth it out to your liking, then separate the three sections at the top with a dremel giving you three individual rings then the lower neck section. Space the sections accordingly then glue in elastic on the back side to hold the spacing and provide the flex you are looking for. Then of course get that awesome red sprayed on it. Just an idea for you. What ever you decide to do I'm sure it will be great just like your helmet! :D
neck.jpg
 
For the neck seal you could pep and harden it, smooth it out to your liking, then separate the three sections at the top with a dremel giving you three individual rings then the lower neck section. Space the sections accordingly then glue in elastic on the back side to hold the spacing and provide the flex you are looking for. Then of course get that awesome red sprayed on it. Just an idea for you. What ever you decide to do I'm sure it will be great just like your helmet! :D
neck.jpg

Was pretty much planning something very much like that! Good one!
 
So Drack, how do you get your head (mine is 180 wide by 200mm front to back) into the neck piece. Obviously it won't fit through a hole only 140mm diameter.
 
Well my fastening solution won't work for a PEPed neck but if I were you I would have it split on both sides. One side joined with elastic and the other side make elastic straps with some snap fasteners. Then you can pull it open pop it on and then get some one to pop the snaps together. If you make elastic straps they will pull it into place better. The advantage to all the fastenings being made from elastic is that you will still get the articulation you want.
 
Well my fastening solution won't work for a PEPed neck but if I were you I would have it split on both sides. One side joined with elastic and the other side make elastic straps with some snap fasteners. Then you can pull it open pop it on and then get some one to pop the snaps together. If you make elastic straps they will pull it into place better. The advantage to all the fastenings being made from elastic is that you will still get the articulation you want.

I thought this might be the case. Thanks mate!
 
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