BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
It's a pain in the butt trying to get some shed time these days! Seems between ten and midnight a couple of times a week is about all I get anymore!
Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thanks guys.
One arm done and added.
One arm done and added.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
I... I... I'm pretty much speechless how outstanding it looks. It seriously looks just like Iron Man armor in the movies! @_@
Even better considering the actor is wearing a green-suit... I can't even describe how good your suit already looks. @_@
Even better considering the actor is wearing a green-suit... I can't even describe how good your suit already looks. @_@
transmut1
Member
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thanks for your wonderful encouragement gang. 
Spinal plates.
Final panel beating, fill and detailing of the back before painting.
Spinal plates.
Final panel beating, fill and detailing of the back before painting.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Finally got my good friend James in for a few hours tonight to consolodate some of the electronics in the helmet. He managed to reduce our tangled birds-nest of wire down to a very tight little unit.
Still more to go, but very promising so far.
Still more to go, but very promising so far.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Nearly ready to paint the back. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon/night.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
To all my painter friends. I am using Duplicolor metalcast for iron man. It is the perfect colour and finish and the one I want to use.
I'm looking for a compatible clear coat to go hard on the outside and protect it. Anyone had any experience with the can on the right?
I just sprayed it over a test piece of the red metalcast and the clear completely melted the colour away, even though the red had cured for over 24 hours.
I'm getting a little sick of spending money on **** that doesn't work. The guy at supercheap auto said it was made for it and would work fine.
I'm looking for a compatible clear coat to go hard on the outside and protect it. Anyone had any experience with the can on the right?
I just sprayed it over a test piece of the red metalcast and the clear completely melted the colour away, even though the red had cured for over 24 hours.
I'm getting a little sick of spending money on **** that doesn't work. The guy at supercheap auto said it was made for it and would work fine.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
It's amazing how much bogging and sanding you can do thinking it's super-smooth. Then you hit it with a shiny paint and all the lumps and bumps show up.
There comes a point where you say, "Stuff it, there's only so much time taken from my family I can justify, and I've already pushed it too far." Next goes the red.
There comes a point where you say, "Stuff it, there's only so much time taken from my family I can justify, and I've already pushed it too far." Next goes the red.
peterthethinker
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S386
Ive also used the mettalic duplicolor for the covi purple effect( I use the ground coat underneath)
I use the dulpicolor normal clear wheel coat and it just adds shine. no melt .
odd. wonder if the high heat one is more potent and re solvents the other paints.
I use the dulpicolor normal clear wheel coat and it just adds shine. no melt .
odd. wonder if the high heat one is more potent and re solvents the other paints.
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
Just from experience. The high heat paint is horrible unless it's an engine or barbecue. It doesn't hold up well to abuse it's meant for stationery items that get ridiculously hot. It's not meant for things that chase or come in contact with other things. And it seems to be a flexible type of paint that expands and shrinks instead of crinkles and cracks so I would not use it if I were you.
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Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
Spraymax and Rustoleum are by far the top of the line. But if I were you I would also try Plasti Dip's glossy clear coat protected its Clarity is very good nowadays and it's great because it can be peeled off. This would also allow you to touch up any surface imperfections underneath that may get ruffed up over the years as well as a real application of clear could just be sprayed on instantly.
Too bad you don't live here by me I would just take it to my shop and paint it for you
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Too bad you don't live here by me I would just take it to my shop and paint it for you
Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thanks guys. Ryno is there a link to the recommended rustoleum clear you can post here?
Baz.
Baz.
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
https://jet.com/product/detail/e8ae...MCT9HlV2nO3vG4_dEJJ04aAiCT8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
Damn, I LOVE your paintjob!
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Alright.
I asked the question on several forums and on Facebook. The one that made the most sense came from a friend who said that 24 hours drying on my Duplicolor red was not enough. I need more like four or five days.
Based on RYNO666's, (405th) link to the Rustoleum option he provide me yesterday, (thanks RYNO) I made contact with an Australian distributor in Victoria and spoke with one of their paint technicians.
He has basically confirmed what my friend has said.
The Duplicolor is a enamel paint, and apparently the solvents in enamels take a very long time to disperse, unlike acrylics or 2-packs.
His advice is to try again, give it four or five days to cure - the longer the better. Then when applying the clear coat over the top, give a very light spray first, wait for it to go off, then apply two normal coats with 15 to 20 minutes between coats.
I asked the question on several forums and on Facebook. The one that made the most sense came from a friend who said that 24 hours drying on my Duplicolor red was not enough. I need more like four or five days.
Based on RYNO666's, (405th) link to the Rustoleum option he provide me yesterday, (thanks RYNO) I made contact with an Australian distributor in Victoria and spoke with one of their paint technicians.
He has basically confirmed what my friend has said.
The Duplicolor is a enamel paint, and apparently the solvents in enamels take a very long time to disperse, unlike acrylics or 2-packs.
His advice is to try again, give it four or five days to cure - the longer the better. Then when applying the clear coat over the top, give a very light spray first, wait for it to go off, then apply two normal coats with 15 to 20 minutes between coats.
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