well at least if this group ever gets around with a 405th halo film and we want more blam we know who to call. oh an if you have a green lens to put on the front you can say it's a anti superman laser. lol speaking of which how hard would it be to replace the red LED's and just put clear one and a len slot. just throwing things out there.
Thanks. Krypton beam LOL! Not hard to change the red LEDs to white, but adding a lens would stop the Airsoft BBs from getting by.
Sorry to be slow updating this week, but I've finished painting it! I'll show the workup today and I'll post the finished picks in a day or two. I took it to the local CON (Pensacon) this weekend and was amazed at the reception.
First, I went to upload my photos last night and Imageshack has suddenly become a pay site without so much as an e-mail telling me they're switching. Up theirs! So, back to Photobucket where they limit my traffic. We'll see . . . .
Anyway, here are the teasers!
This is the scene a couple of hours after the last posting. Fully disassembled!
Here are all of the metal parts on display. In the end, there are 50 different aluminum parts that I made.
Four molded fiberglass parts
All of the electronic components. Good fun.
Cerakote process for the metal parts follows:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/
Cerakote is a ultra-modern ceramic firearms coating that is reasonably affordable, easy to apply, and incredibly tough. This allowed me to add a level of realism to my prop that simply cannot come from a paint can. This is also an airsoft gun that needs to be tough enough to survive rough use.
Here's an M3 Greasegun airsoft replica that began as a rather gloss-black eyesore and ended up as this realistic replica using Cerakote.
The parts must first be completely degreased with acetone.
Areas not being coated had to be masked.
Every surface being coated was sandblasted to promote adhesion and a matte finish.
Every piece was then heated to bake out any remaining oils.
I used Graphite Black as my base color. I catalyzed it 24 parts color to 1 part hardener to get the most flat finish. Use a narrower ratio to get satin or semi-gloss finishes.
I baked the parts on the grill (DO NOT USE YOUR KITCHEN OVEN) at around 250 degrees for two hours. Plastic and resin parts can also be Cerkoted. Those cure for three hours at 180 degrees. The beauty of that setup is Cerkote can make mixed-media construction look like all-metal construction. On that M3 I showed earlier, there are several plastic details. You can't tell. Resin parts should be test baked to find and fill any air bubbles near the surface prior to coating.
Here's the outer barrel in Graphite Black, Sniper Grey, polished aluminum, and ordinary copper paint. Very lightsaber-like hmm?
Here's the lower receiver after coming out of the curing process.
Here it is after lightly dry-brushing it with aluminum paint to bring out the details. This was just the start of an almost all-nighter to get it showable for the CON.
My neighbor offered up the services of her Cricut machine to make stencils in vinyl. She did a beautiful job too!
I airbrushed on the red stripe and hot glued the black mesh inside the venting before gluing in the vent assemblies and bolting on external details. Notice the decals below the forward vents. I printed them on white decal film and sealed them with Eastwood Diamond Clear--about the finest-quality uncatalyzed clearcoat available.
To finish the weathering and detail, I gave all the green parts a dark brown wash, airbrushed sand-colored mottling, and drybrushed sand color onto all of the raised edges. I followed this by spraying the whole thing with a two-part automotive clear flat finish to get a much tougher coating than a standard rattle can. After that cured, I misted the fiberglass parts with Testors Brass Metalizer to make the whole thing slightly iridescent.
There's the teaser. I'll put up the finished pics in a few days.
Redshirt