Wow, I come back to see if I had made a new thread about a UNSC pin I'm making (I couldn't remember if I started one yet), and I find out that this thread had been dug up from the grave. lol. I don't check my own threads that often here, and only scan through the top-level forum once a day now-a-days, so it's no wonder I missed all these questions. I'm just going to hit on a few of the major questions:
How did I carve the details?
I went to school for traditional printmaking, and I ended up having a bunch of wood engraving tools. Not "wood working tools," mind you, these are for making super detailed relief prints. I did some testing one day on some scrap bondo that had a flat surface, and found that these tools work perfectly on bondo, so that's what I've been using to carve my details. However, I cannot teach you over the internet how to use these tools. You'd need first-hand experience in learning to use them. Sorry I couldn't help much more than that. Read up on wood engraving and metal engraving if you're interested in using these tools. Or spend 4 years at a fine arts school learning printmaking, ya slackers!
How did I do the mold seam?
As you saw, I used a clay wall to create the vertical surface that would become the mold seam. To create the divots, I pressed the back end of a sharpie marker into it. These registration keys aren't for keeping the halves together, though - that's what the screws are for! - rather, the registration keys keep the mold halves from rotating on each other. That's why I used a ton of keys, so there is only ONE WAY the mold halves will fit together. In order to prevent the second half of the mold from sticking to the first half (this goes for the rubber and the fiberglass parts), I brushed on a layer of petroleum jelly. When it's rubber touching rubber, I don't trust any other release agent. When you do this, you have to be very careful not to get it on the model itself (or that detail will be captured in your rubber!), and you have to be careful to get it on all the little registration keys. I used a small model painting paint brush to coat the rubber that's next to the model, and then I just went at it with my fingers for the rest. I even coated the back side of the mother mold's seam edge in case any fiberglass resin decided to drip down and try to seal it up.
Am I selling castings?
I don't get the whole idea of posting your email address and expecting me to see it and email you. I've only ever seen this happen on the 405th. On every other prop forum on the internet, the interested buyers contact the seller, so that's how I prefer to answer these kinds of questions. If you are interested in a helmet, please email me at
davre.gamob@gmail.com and I'll try to help you out.