TUTORIAL: The Totally Offical "Hot glue Method" Method.

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AoBfrost

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So Mom and Dad wont let you use fiberglass because it's "dangerous", your "allergic", it's "toxic", it's "too expensive", or "you're too young"?

Look no further my friend, because I, Frost, have created the cheap DIY armor reinforcing method which will keep your wallet (or parents wallet) semi full (gotta some spend money!)

This method uses hot glue sticks. What is hot glue? It looks like this.

Picture of Hot glue gun and clear hot glue sticks
ct1-14_gluegun.jpg


Hot glue is strong and flexible and very easy to repair if torn (like it will ever tear!). This method melts down a mass amount of hot glue into a coffee/pie crust tin and is brushed onto the INSIDE of your armor.

Ready to get to the details? Of course you are!

What you need:
1. 2 packs of 30 hot glue mini sticks (high temp) 6 dollars
2. A portable electric stove (might already have, otherwise, they are cheap)
3. Several Paint brushes with hairs, not foam brushes.
4. Pie/coffee tin
5.Your armor piece.

Now those 2 packs are for a helmet, if you are doing an entire suit, I'd buy 2 packs for arms and legs, 3-4 packs for the thighs, and 4-5 packs for the torso



Now that you have all your supplies, lets look at the process:

1. Plug in your portable Electric stove.
2. Turn heat to medium or 5 (whatever is in the middle)
3. Add 1 pack of Hot glue and melt it down.
4. Once all glue is completely melted and hot, get a paint brush ready.(Let hot glue sit for 1min on hot stove so it gets REALLY hot after it's already melted). CAUTION! Super Hot Glue will BURN YOU, WEAR SHOP GLOVES!
5. Lightly brush on a thin coat of hot glue on the inside so you don't warp the piece by over weighing it.
6. 30 seconds later your glue is dried and ready for the second coat!
7. Start brushing the hot glue in until it is 1/4th to 1/2th of an inch thick or however thick/strong you want it.
9. 30 seconds later and the second layer is dry.
10. Make sure you turn off your stove every few minutes, you dont want to burn the hot glue in the tin.
11. After you have your desired thickness/strength, you can now paint/bondo the outside!

If you will still be using resin, resin the inside and outside of the armor piece ONCE, then hot glue over the resin inside.

DO NOT HOT GLUE THE OUTSIDE OF THE ARMOR, HOT GLUE IS NOT EASY TO MAKE COMPLETELY SMOOTH.

Because hot glue is rubbery, your armor will be able to take some bending because the main support is flexible, if you use resin or bondo though, it wont be as flexible since the outside is hard. If your hot glue ever rips because you fell in your armor, just heat up a few sticks in a tin again and brush the glue into the damaged area!

I hope this helps you guys who wont be using fiberglass, you dont need to use resin, but it's optional, If you will use resin, read more info about Skull Candy Girl's Aqua resin method, her method can be used with my hot glue method very easily.

-AoBfrost


EDIT: Sorry I dont have pics of the steps, but I havent done this myself, it's too cold to do it or else the hot glue will just solidify on me too fast. Many people such as Keegan, skull candy girl, and many others have used my method with success.
 
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lol i didnt even think about using hot glue when i started lol, this is pretty kool frost. maybe ill try after i finish my vac form table. i live it florida so the glue aint gonna solidify to fast cuz its stinking hot even in the winter (dont even need jackets i hate it)
 
You might not want to try this method if you're in florida, because the temperature can get super hot there.
 
Hey Frost, it's really cool that you got this written up in tut format. With this and aqua resin, it should be possible to make nearly toxic free armor.

Some reason you stuck this in the Noob forum?
 
shoulda came out with this 5 months ago when i was experimenting with spray foam which was a total waste of time and money....oh well.......GREAT IDEA ...i would have never thought of that
 
Good tut. I'm thinking of sealing it with Krylon sealer instead. It should illiminate any chance of warping, and take much less time. Although it won't be quite as sturdy,
 
LukeTrocity said:
Good tut. I'm thinking of sealing it with Krylon sealer instead. It should illuminate any chance of warping, and take much less time. Although it won't be quite as sturdy,
The irony is... that here in europe hot glue costs more then resin...

-Fin(n)ish
 
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Here in the USA, you can buy sticks that are huge for 30 cents a piece, very cheap, or small sticks for 10 cents at a craft/sewing store.
 
Finnish_Spartan said:
The irony is... that here in europe hot glue costs more then resin...

-Fin(n)ish

Actually I got 30 HUGE glue sticks for like $4 or £2 theyre like 4 tomes the size of a normal glue stick.
 
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Sigma told me to search for someone who has used my method and has pictures, but I dont think anyone has took enough pictures to fit into the tutorial.
 
im not trying to be rude or anything, but why are you writing a tutorial for something you havent even tried... hot glue is very suseptible to heat... so i hope you dont go outside with your armor much or else you mught get warped.
 
Small scale I have done, but not large scale, hot glue will stay solid until around 80 degrees F, true that is a downside, but it has it's advantages over fiberglass also.

Also, 4-5 people have used this with success so far.
 
I LOVE IT, so much easier than fiberglassing and resining,,, i might start my H1 marine armor project up and use this instead of the resin... thanks man (y)
 
Depending on what area you are covering, 1/2 an inch is needed, such as the chest, the large area of the chest must be covered, yet pieces like the arms and such can be covered with 1/4th of an inch or less depending on how strong/thick you want.
 
AoBfrost said:
Also, 4-5 people have used this with success so far.
And Im one of them! :D I love this method, Iwas really getting sick of Fiberglass resin fumes. Or as Sean would say, faberglaz razuns.
 
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