TUTORIAL: The Totally Offical "Hot glue Method" Method.

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If I understand this thread right, if you're armor is exposed to temperatures over 80 degrees it will basically melt?





That would be, annoying...:p
 
LaughingCheese said:
If I understand this thread right, if you're armor is exposed to temperatures over 80 degrees it will basically melt?





That would be, annoying... :p



Yeah I am also wondering the same thing and also I would like to know that if I use the hot glue method on the inside of my armor for the outside is it ok to use paper mache or I totally have to use another method since I do not want to get in trouble with both my parents and the campus cops or someone XP
 
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WOuld the armor be sturdy enough so that we can aply paint as is (by as is i mean with the glue on the inside and what not) or add bondo to it?
 
The armor will be sturdy enough to add paint, but unless you add something on the outside, such as resin (I used Modge Podge on my hot glue armor), the cardstock will soak up the paint and it will be very difficult to perform Adam's weathering method on your armor.



I strongly recommend that you do NOT apply bondo on your hot glue armor. Hot glue will flex, and it'll cause the bondo to crack. However, if you apply resin on the out side, hot glue the inside (and then resin over the hot glue if you like), then yes, you can apply bondo.



And to answer another question, I was outside in my hot glue armor with a temperature of 94 degrees for a couple of hours and it did not melt. It did make it really flexible.



Hope this helps you guys...
 
pooper said:
The armor will be sturdy enough to add paint, but unless you add something on the outside, such as resin (I used Modge Podge on my hot glue armor), the cardstock will soak up the paint and it will be very difficult to perform Adam's weathering method on your armor.



I strongly recommend that you do NOT apply bondo on your hot glue armor. Hot glue will flex, and it'll cause the bondo to crack. However, if you apply resin on the out side, hot glue the inside (and then resin over the hot glue if you like), then yes, you can apply bondo.



And to answer another question, I was outside in my hot glue armor with a temperature of 94 degrees for a couple of hours and it did not melt. It did make it really flexible.



Hope this helps you guys...

thanks, not too familliar with Modge Podge but i'll look it up ;)
 
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extrabread said:
Sweet, I'll have to compare the two methods. Were do they sell just the sticks?



Michaels, Target, Wal mart, and kmart and other craft stores
 
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coolguy26 said:
will it be flexible if i put resin over the hot glued armor?



A little, not much. Depends on the amount of hot glue and resin used. I never tried resin with hot glue myself... But I have used both the hot glue method and fiberglass/resin/bondo on two separate armors (still currently working on my fiberglass armor). So I would imagine that it depends on the amount used. There's a couple of members here who used hot glue and resin and it was very sturdy and one that I know where it was a little flexible.
 
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I am still very much a noob to armor making, and before I start trying to actually showcase anything I am in the process of figuring out what works best for me and my makeshift workshop situation.



Your hot glue method really raised an eyebrow, and while I haven’t really worked on a project with it, I believe that I have refined the process a bit and added in a control.



At first I was thinking of using a candle warmer… but that doesn’t have a temp range you can dial into, and there is very little control.



I started to think “food service” and went to Bed Bath & Beyond… there I saw that they had a little Presto Electric Skillet ($40).



$40 is a bit pricy for it’s size, but if that’s the option, I’ll take it.



I started to look around and found that there is a 7 inch model available for $20 on Amazon

31KAUQWYoiL._SL500_AA280_.jpg




I had the opportunity to test this theory with some pretty darn positive results!



Through trial and error I’ve discovered that using a generic candy thermometer is the way to go when trying to sniff out the best melting point.



High temp I’ve found not to be the best when joining small parts this way as it’s remaining pooled.



I’ve enjoyed the results with mid range temps (roughly 270° for the glue sticks I buy at WalMart), but I would say with the adjustable heat you can dial in the temp you like working with the most.



It also works well with the 3M line of “Scotch Weld” hot glue, but to be honest, at $45 for an 11lb case, I really didn’t see where it was that much more of a value or a better result than the el-cheapo stuff you can get at Wallyworld.



I haven’t tried this with TE-200 because it’s a too pricy for me.



I also haven’t tried this with SS6, since I think it sets too slow for the application, and frankly I don’t like the stuff.



For application in this way I’ve found that el-cheapo wooden clay sculpting tools are the right answer.

Wood-Clay-Tool-Set(1).jpg




They’ve offered the best means of control, they tend to not sink in the pool of melted glue, and they are easy to clean off.



Now before the angels herald this as the best thing since awesome… there is a dark side.



Although this should be obvious… you’ll never cook in that skillet again. Even if it’s non-stick



Past what should be obvious with the removal of the skillet from the “food grade” market…



If you let the glue sit in the skillet for too long, it will start to get amber in color, and as it darkens it’s slowly getting harder to work with.



I’ve tested this to a small degree and the most negative application result was that the glue will go from flexible to more rigid and less workable.



For the “hot glue method” I can see this as a wonderful way to quickly coat in hot glue sparing quite a bit of time and material.



For pepping I would advise against the skillet for lack of control, and the eventual waste of glue.



So AoBfrost, I love your idea, I think it’s a brilliant addition! Hopefully I didn’t step on any toes with my approach to it.
 
huh... never bothered looking at this thread until tonight. i cant remember the name, but there is a term for the hot glue method, i think it was thermo-plast or something along those lines. i can tell you guys this is a great idea if you can do it right. i have talked with someone who makes full head to toe costumes using this method. its easy and you can buy bulk sticks online, and he says in various colors too.

after i am done with my gundam pep, i think that i will do a full ironman or odst suit using this.



thank you for reminding me!
 
I dont think that the hot glue would melt on a hot day? Arent there labels on the packages at what minium temperature they melt?
 
kodorei - no hot glue will not melt from exterior or body temperature. like i put in my post. they guy who i first say do this make the entire suit out of hot glue from molds. no pep or fiberglass. he has never had a single roblem with one of his suits. plus he is also a professional fx artist.

maybe some of you have seen his work at a con or just online. ranked one of the top cosplay in north america.

as i can see 23magnum has already posted a pic of him on here

Guyver_Full_Costume_Full_Suit_by_EvilFx.jpg


if this sick guyver suit can stand up with only hot glue, no one has anything to worry about as long as they mould it properly.

i was going to do a mold to show everyone, but my printer crapped out on me so im out of pep'n for a while
 
Thanks so much for this! I have pictures of my plasy pistol i reinforced using Hot glue on the inside posted in my gallery. Hot glue method is awesome! And i will post pics when I make more things using hot glue.



@ LT-GRAVE : that is so awesome...would love to see more pics of that piece, it looks amazing! is there a link with more pics of that event? Thanks!



@ AoBfrost : Thanks so much for posting about this! Such a fantastic Idea!



@ Pooper : Awesome armor! You armor is a great show of what hot glue is capable of! Thanks for the pictures!
 
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