Tutorial: Using Bondo for Detailing
- Thread starter TwistedCory
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Shadow Killer801
Jr Member
Do have to add resin to it before I bondo?
wombat6926
New Member
blakiki said:how do you do stuff like the little circles in feet and hand?
Use a Drill or a rotary tool/Dremel. The Dremel is very usefull for adding details.
I made my own blocks for hands and boots out of wood and just drilled holes in them. I will add some pics tomorrow.
Wombat
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rishonritter
New Member
this is going to make me sound like an idiot.. but i told my uncle to get bondo and he went and got me this stuff called Bondex Patching Plaster. is that good to use or do i have to go back and get a different kind? (it doesnt have the red mustang on it)
sk8er4life
Well-Known Member
So alll we have to do is that ? Where do you apply the bondo to ? Would it be durable enuf to drop it and it not break ? Have any pics of a finifhed product ?
Please someone help...I am obviously confused.... I have built my pepakura pieces. Now what do I do...I have read some posts that say resin the outside and fiberglass only the inside...Others say fiberglass the outside then bondo....I don't know what exactly I am supposed to do. The pepakura that I have built is very angular and not at all round and smooth...Please, I need some guidance!!! 
haha, resin outside and bondo over that is all you need to do. if you wanna smooth it out, you'll need more bondo for the lesser detailed pep files. i used the high detailed one (900+ folds, sorry, forgot by whom) since i had a weekend to spare. its best to experiment and see what best works for you. from my experience with bondo on cars, it might be all you need, if you can find a way to support your helmet/armor/weapon and not have it collapse on itself. i'm not sure it will adhere well to the paper/cardstock/cardboard well, however.
also, i'd like to add that, after a certain point, bondo can be easily carved after a certain amount of drying. you'll know its ready when you can leave a nail print in it and not have any of it come off on you when you remove your finger. then you can carve and mold away, then let it cure.
also, i'd like to add that, after a certain point, bondo can be easily carved after a certain amount of drying. you'll know its ready when you can leave a nail print in it and not have any of it come off on you when you remove your finger. then you can carve and mold away, then let it cure.
Airbear11 said:Please someone help...I am obviously confused.... I have built my pepakura pieces. Now what do I do...I have read some posts that say resin the outside and fiberglass only the inside...Others say fiberglass the outside then bondo....I don't know what exactly I am supposed to do. The pepakura that I have built is very angular and not at all round and smooth...Please, I need some guidance!!!
Most people resin it first (In steps- don't soak the whole thing at once. You'll find more detailed instructions in the tutorial thread.) then fiberglass the inside, then use body filler (Bondo's the most popular brand) on the outside to smooth it out and detail by sanding the Bondo layer. There's no structural reason to not fiberglass the outside but most people don't since it covers up the shape of the pepakura.
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wombat6926
New Member
SH_Jack said:
I fiberglassed the outside of my pepekura. It turned out ok (check my gallery pics) It gives a rough finish that needs bondo(filler) to smooth out if you don't like the angular look. I kinda like the rough finish myself it makes the armor look well worn and patched ( Battle tested LOL ).
My next version I will try fiberglassing the inside..
Tip #1: resin the inside and let it harden overnight, then resin the outside and let it harden before applying the mat or cloth.
Tip #2: You will have to lay the fiber glass mat or cloth in parts. Large parts like helmet ot chest will take 5 or 6 sessions. smaller parts will take 3 or 4.
Don't try to fiberglass the whole part in one sitting. Do aprox 1/4 and let it harden over night. Sand and trim the edges and then do the next 1/4 or so.
Some parts (arms, shoulders, legs) will need cardboard support on the inside to help keep their shape. I ruined a couple of pieces and had to re-make them from scratch because they colapsed and then hardened.
Hope this helps.
Wombat.
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xisox
New Member
I've had a couple years of auto-collision repair classes. I've got some tips for bondo-working:
When you're mixing the bondo, make sure that you're using a smashing motion, not a stirring one. I usually pick up most of the bondo then smash it down like I'm applying it to the mixing board until the streaks are gone.
Another economical solution to a mixing board is to just use a piece of scrap cardboard.
Evercoat body filler is actually better to use than bondo, it sands easier, and it's cheaper.
Evercoat also makes "Polyester Glazing Putty" which is really good for small details and air bubbles.
Red cream hardener makes the filler harden faster as opposed to blue.
Plastic spreaders are better than paint scrapers.
Acetone works for getting filler off of plastic spreaders and mixing boards, but it's not good for your hands, and it leaves you with a weird sticky/dry feeling.
Sorry, it's just kind of a random listing of tips, just adding my experience/knowledge.
EDIT: Make sure that you use sanding blocks, they give a much less wavy finish.
When you're mixing the bondo, make sure that you're using a smashing motion, not a stirring one. I usually pick up most of the bondo then smash it down like I'm applying it to the mixing board until the streaks are gone.
Another economical solution to a mixing board is to just use a piece of scrap cardboard.
Evercoat body filler is actually better to use than bondo, it sands easier, and it's cheaper.
Evercoat also makes "Polyester Glazing Putty" which is really good for small details and air bubbles.
Red cream hardener makes the filler harden faster as opposed to blue.
Plastic spreaders are better than paint scrapers.
Acetone works for getting filler off of plastic spreaders and mixing boards, but it's not good for your hands, and it leaves you with a weird sticky/dry feeling.
Sorry, it's just kind of a random listing of tips, just adding my experience/knowledge.
EDIT: Make sure that you use sanding blocks, they give a much less wavy finish.
Darth Malevelus
Active Member
bondo is easy to use, its only down side, is once its cured its the consistancey of concrete. Very brittle if its thin, and hard to tool or sand by hand once cured, by comparison to other resin types. it is cheap and plentifull though!!
Add a few strips of cloth to the mold like you would with fiberglass, and it will help with its durability. and by some decent sanding tools, and files and your set.
It can be purchased by the gallon too. Lil hint, buy extra part B (activator) youll need it!!!
Add a few strips of cloth to the mold like you would with fiberglass, and it will help with its durability. and by some decent sanding tools, and files and your set.
It can be purchased by the gallon too. Lil hint, buy extra part B (activator) youll need it!!!
SpartanJames87
New Member
I've got a question. Do I need the body filler if all I wanna do is harden my armor and then paint it. I really don't have the cash for all this stuff. I already got fiberglass resin and after putting that on I was just planning on painting the armor. Is this ok or do I need anything more?
Spartan1105
Jr Member
Nope, I tried that with my old suit, and it came out ripping and falling apart when i put it on, so you should harden it with fiberglass.SpartanJames87 said:
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Something that I've noticed in other's work - lots of bondo.
That's not what I've been doing. I apply small portions and sand it smooth.
It's been working for me, but I end up tossing over half of my mix away because it hardens before I can apply it all.
I did read the thread, and I think I can alter my process to not waste so much bondo. I had tried using smaller portions, but at one point I used too little hardner, and that was a mistake. There's some good info in this thread, thanks!
That's not what I've been doing. I apply small portions and sand it smooth.
It's been working for me, but I end up tossing over half of my mix away because it hardens before I can apply it all.
I did read the thread, and I think I can alter my process to not waste so much bondo. I had tried using smaller portions, but at one point I used too little hardner, and that was a mistake. There's some good info in this thread, thanks!
Having worked with bondo in the past I can offer this one tip. When applying bondo very sparingly, you can just wait until it dries and then sand it. If putting it on in bigger portions, it's best to start trimming it down before it completely dries using a rasp, x-acto knife, or anything you can think of. Doing this will save you alot of time sanding.
pinkmasterchief
New Member
is primer that black stuf that you spray on to see wat details you missed or is it like bondo ?
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