Wiring LED TO helmet

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Hey, I'm thinking of making some custom promethian armor. Has anyone ever played around or used EL wire before? I'm thinking that's what I'm going to use for it. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
EL Wire is really user-friendly. It is literally an attach, plug in, and you are good.

I would suggest buying from That's Cool Wire. They have a good selection and I have yet to get a bad product from them.

Here's a tip. If you have lights in your helmet, run the wire down the back of your neck. Do NOT put the power pack in your bucket. It isn't so much a safety thing, but it produces a high pitched whine that has driven one of my friends (Republic Commando) batty.
 
The EL wire usually comes with a connector. Like Jason said, just plug and play.

For smaller lengths, just cut smaller. The left over EL wire is pretty easy to solder and re-use, tutorial time...


Working with EL Wire:


If you've never worked with EL wire, here' s the step-by-step process to soldering to this evil phospherous beast.

Before you go diving into an EL wire project, think about how the EL strands are going to connect to your controller. I highly recommend JST 2-pin friction connectors:

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This type of JST connection will allow you to quickly remove a strand or remove a controller from the piece of clothing.



Step 1: Cut and strip the outer sheath




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You can't even see the threads in this picture, but the way that EL wire works is there is a phospherous center core (the thick white wire in the picture above) and hair like wires that spiral around the core. If you strip the wire too harshly, you can easily cut through (or tear) the hair like wires. It takes practice. I recommend picking up an EL stripper. These stippers help, but it still takes practice.




Step 2: Scrape off some phosphor


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Using an x-acto knife, scrape the phosphor from the core. In the picture above, you can see the two hair-like spiral wires.




Step 3: Solder the core


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For my own sanity, I wired all the cores with red wire, and all the hair like wires with black wire. Remember to put the heat shrink on the red and black wires before you solder! I used tape to anchor everything while I was soldering. Worked well.




Step 4: Solder the hairs


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Now carefully solder the hairlike wires. You can see I wrapped the hairs around the black, solid core wire. I used the x-acto knife blade to help coerce the hairs into place.

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After soldering, shortly before heat shrinking.




Step 5: Heat shrink 'er








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Notice the individual wires are heat shrinked. This helps give the hairs some support, and it also isolates the core connection from the hair connection. To shrink heat-shrink, I like to use a cheap heat gun. In a pinch, I have used matches or a lighter.




Step 6: More heat shrink


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Adding a final overall sheath of heat-shrink will significantly add to the resiliance of the connection. These connections may seem very fragile at first, but I've beat up on these connections over the past two years. One connection has failed - it was the first one that I did and was pretty poor. A little practice and you'll be creating great, solid EL wire connections.

Source: http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/130
 
I have a little issue, not sure if this is the right spot to post. I bought a set of 4 LEDs the other day at wal-mart, they have the car adapter and also they have a little battery box which powers them for display "try me" button in the store. Is there a way besides using that little battery box (which has a series of watch batteries inside) to get the lights powered up and can I add a toggle switch of some sort? Here is a picture. Thanks!

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If they are meant for a car battery, you will need 12V of batteries to run.

I count 15 button cells there. You will need 8 AAA or AA to get up to 12V to replace the button cells.

Go to RadioShack or where ever. Buy a 8 x battery pack for AA or AAA and a on off switch.

The AA or AAA setup will last weeks running 4 LEDs. Alternatively, you can get a battery clip for a 9V battery. Your LEDs will still light up, but be slightly dimmer and last a few hours.
 
If they are meant for a car battery, you will need 12V of batteries to run.

I count 15 button cells there. You will need 8 AAA or AA to get up to 12V to replace the button cells.

Go to RadioShack or where ever. Buy a 8 x battery pack for AA or AAA and a on off switch.

The AA or AAA setup will last weeks running 4 LEDs. Alternatively, you can get a battery clip for a 9V battery. Your LEDs will still light up, but be slightly dimmer and last a few hours.


Thanks alot, this helped a ton, wish me luck with the rest of my build!
 
So after reading most of this thread, I really can't understand the tutorial. My apologies for sounding like a total n00b BUUUUTTTT....i need help.

I have the master chief helmet from forward unto down and I want to add the led lights to the sides of the helmet. I wanted to know what would be the proper way to install the lights, secure them onto the helmet(into the holes, is there a fastener for leds?) and the best way to install fans inside of it.

Again, I'm sorry for sounding like a N00b but I do need help and figured i'll ask.

Thanks in advance. :cool
 
You can get an LED holder, or just glue the LEDs in place. The important thing is to get large enough LEDs. 10 or 12mm diameter ones work well.
 
You can get an LED holder, or just glue the LEDs in place. The important thing is to get large enough LEDs. 10 or 12mm diameter ones work well.

Perfect, thank you for responding.

Is it possible to install the lights and fans to the same 9v battery or is it a better way? Less noise.

Thank you again.
 
Don't worry about noise, they are LEDs. Any noise introduced from the fan is imperceptible. You can wire the LEDs and Fan to the same 9 volt.


Personally, I like a 3xAA battery pack. The AA batteries last longer than 9 volts, and the added fans will drain a battery faster. You just have to get a fan that runs on 5 volts instead of 12 volts (common PC fan).
 
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