Yodajammies Cnc Mk Vi Armor

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Nugget said:
What's goin' on in this here thread? :)

Yoda, you're so impatient. I thought we both agreed that the thread would go up once the models were completed?

I know I know, but I might have exploded had I waited any longer.
 
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Beautiful work here and props to you and nugget both! Also thats a great idea to use micarta BFD. Especially if you can make it yourself. I have only ever used it for knife handles and a set of simple 1911 grips once. But it is very strong as you said.
Lastly gotta say....I literally rolled on the floor laughing when I saw HOW GOOD that painting technique works!!! I have been sweating out having to drybrush an entire suit.....when all I needed was ranch....omfg.

Phil
 
Amazing work guys. Makes me excited about going back to finish my degree. Just found out that my new school has a cnc machine. Wonder if they let art students use it.... lol
 
If I wasn't in the middle of molding the forearm, yes.

In other news, guess who left the lid of one of his silicone buckets ajar for a good 6 days before noticing? And now guess who has dragon skin that really doesn't want to cure properly. Sigh, fail.

Don't worry about pictures. When parts are complete, I'll be sure to post more pictures. I'm slated to be in the shop on monday, so depending on how things go, I may have the BR or a couple other pieces cut.
 
Yodajammies said:
In other news, guess who left the lid of one of his silicone buckets ajar for a good 6 days before noticing? And now guess who has dragon skin that really doesn't want to cure properly. Sigh, fail.

NNNNOOOOOOOOOooooooo...... :eek:

That bites - sorry to hear about that. Hopefully it wasn't a full bucket, that stuff costs an arm and a leg...
 
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This is epic. Truly epic. The only way it could be more epic was if you were using say, steel.

/me needs to find a college that has a CNC...
 
@Dwizard - Yeah, it was only about 1/2 a bucket. Not a big deal. It still cures, but I have to kick start it with a heat gun for a good 20 minutes or so. Gives me time to sit and think about how I screwed up. :) Saw a great video tutorial on how to help cure tacky silicone using a storage box and a heating pad. (who was it?) I pulled some casts of the forearm last night and I've come to the conclusion that I am not a very skilled mold maker. The standard glove molding technique is leaving my casts warped and mal-formed. Tonight when I'm in the shop, I'm going to build a box mold for the forearm and fool around with traditional box molding techniques. I've never actually made one before.
 
Nugget said:
I use 3ds Max 8 and 10 for all of my models. I'm not sure what software Yoda uses to run the CNC process though. ;)



I would assume the software was whatever came with the CNC mill. Or whatever company has the mill. ;)
 
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Spartan137 said:
I would assume the software was whatever came with the CNC mill. Or whatever company has the mill. ;)



PartWorks3d for 3d cuts (dur) and Partworks for 2d vector cuts.



There is a standalone version of the software that can be bought from Vetric called Cut3d
 
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For the last time, Nugget did not make pep files for this.



I hired him to develop a high poly 3d model of the armor that would be cut on the CNC table. Read the first thread.





So I haven't updated in a while, so here - The chest piece is almost ready to be molded. Still needs a bit more work, but it's getting there. meh.







DSCN1289.jpg
 
Yodajammies said:
For the last time, Nugget did not make pep files for this.



I hired him to develop a high poly 3d model of the armor that would be cut on the CNC table. Read the first thread.





So I haven't updated in a while, so here - The chest piece is almost ready to be molded. Still needs a bit more work, but it's getting there. meh.







DSCN1289.jpg



Oh-hoo! Looks good!



Very sleek and smooth!
 
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