3D printer HELP thread

hi guys, ive just downloaded some pepakura files for halo 2 armour and am trying to convert the files into .obj files so i can 3D print them, because i haven't got the full version of pepakura designer so i cannot export it to an .obj myself. is their anyway i can do this without paying for pepakura? or could someone else convert them for me?
:)
 
hi guys, ive just downloaded some pepakura files for halo 2 armour and am trying to convert the files into .obj files so i can 3D print them, because i haven't got the full version of pepakura designer so i cannot export it to an .obj myself. is their anyway i can do this without paying for pepakura? or could someone else convert them for me?
:)
Just upload a zip file of all the items you want converted to obj's. I can help.
 
I went and recently upgraded my Flashforge Creator Pro with a glass bed (And glue stick to rub over the plate). IMHO it makes a difference. I never had such high-quality prints with such a cheap upgrade. Before I had issues with heat bed not sticking, even with blue masking tape, which caused my prints to suffer drastically from the print shifting at times and even peeling at the corners.

The glass bed also seems to help when you want your print to pop off. The glue stick acts like a wax, and when cooled down, I guess it shrinks?

All I hear is *POP* and my 3d print becomes free of the heated bed (Obviously, when the print has finished)

I should also point out that it's much more efficient to buy a bulk of cheap 3d Printer nozzles and teflon tubes than to clean the old one out.

Especially when you're a cheapy like me, and use seemingly impure ABS that doesn't melt properly when mixed with acetone. Although I love that brand because it's cheap and produces equivalent results to a near high-end brand of filament.
 
erm....me again lol

So I want to print something that is far too big for my printer bed (helmet), and I've got a file that I know how to slice up into parts that will fit, but my question is, how do I put some sort of locating pins or tabs on the parts? And what infill percentage? I was thinking 25% but is that enough? I do have blender (too complicated for my old brain), fusion 360 (not as complex as blender but.....well I struggle lol) and meshmixer which I have had a quick look at figured the cutting up bit. Can I use meshmixer to add locating pins?

edited to add, I printing in ABS, or would PLA be better for a helmet?
 
erm....me again lol

So I want to print something that is far too big for my printer bed (helmet), and I've got a file that I know how to slice up into parts that will fit, but my question is, how do I put some sort of locating pins or tabs on the parts? And what infill percentage? I was thinking 25% but is that enough? I do have blender (too complicated for my old brain), fusion 360 (not as complex as blender but.....well I struggle lol) and meshmixer which I have had a quick look at figured the cutting up bit. Can I use meshmixer to add locating pins?

edited to add, I printing in ABS, or would PLA be better for a helmet?
You can do this in Meshmixer but be prepared for your machine to lag out and quite possibly just fail at producing a usable result depending on the complexity of the model. One easy method of adding pins is to create a cylinder or similar primitive shape to house the pin and align it along the edge of your model and then use a second cylinder to cut out the volume for the pin to be placed into the printed piece.
 
How to cut STL models for 3D printing in Meshmixer - Prusa Printers
Explains how to slice a model in Meshmixer and add alignment pins.

For infill, do what you feel is right. Initially I printed with lots of infill 25+% because I was worried that it wouldn't be enough. Since then I've stepped it down over time depending on the model and expected use. Many of my prints I stick to around 5-10% infill now and have been perfectly fine.

As far as plastic type goes, again maybe not so helpful, but use what you want. There are pros and cons to each. ABS seems to be faster to sand, but there are a lot of different factors into if that's true or just feels easier. 3D Printing Nerd and Punished Props did a video comparing sanding parts printed with a few plastics starting around 7:05 will get you to PLA vs ABS.

Due to the lower temperature required for PLA to melt vs ABS, PLA prints are more likely to warp when left out in a car. I recall Punished Props doing a Boolean Gemini from Destiny that warped when left in a hot car, but we deal with that issue for almost any method of building (looking at you foam and hot glue).

There's also the matter of temperature fluctuations affecting ABS and the temperature needed on the print bed and hot end for ABS vs PLA. ABS tends to warp

I would say if you have a lot of one over the other, use what you have. If you haven't bought filament yet, have an enclosure, and want something that's possibly easier to sand and will be more resilient against being left in the car, then I'd go with ABS. Even with that said, I'll tell you my current projects are being done in PLA because I'm printing them on a printer that doesn't have an enclosure (yet) and am concerned about warping during the printing process.
 
Thanks guys!

I dont have an enclosure for my printer, but I have a rather warm, small craft room. I have more ABS than PLA. I have been printing at 5-10% infill, with PLA, Ive yet to try a print with ABS. I bought ABS specifically because of the warping in temperature changes tha can occur with PLA (it gets very warm in craft room even in winter), however I have read that printing with ABS can be a bit hit and miss.

thanks again guys
 
Thanks guys!

I dont have an enclosure for my printer, but I have a rather warm, small craft room. I have more ABS than PLA. I have been printing at 5-10% infill, with PLA, Ive yet to try a print with ABS. I bought ABS specifically because of the warping in temperature changes tha can occur with PLA (it gets very warm in craft room even in winter), however I have read that printing with ABS can be a bit hit and miss.

thanks again guys
Printing ABS is all about ambient temperature consistency so if you don't have too much change over the course of the day your craft room may be perfect. One questionable method that works as a quick and cheap enclosure that I've seen is a box made from EVA floor mats just plopped on top of the printer to make a cozy little cube of consistent warmth. It doesn't have any of the normal temperature monitoring or control fans of other enclosures but apparently it works in a pinch.
 
Why is it doing this please? The first layer ‘grud’ Bits are peeling up already? Bed is at 90, nozzle at 230
1752A6C0-4DA7-405E-B3BF-81F14D13F053.jpeg
 
ABS sorry should have said. It failed miserably. I was clearing a mess at 5am this morning lol first post should have said grid not grud! It settled down before I went to bed but the supports came away from bed completely and the actual print had started to peel from surface plate as well. So going to go back to PLA until I can get some sort of enclosure sorted. I did use the mats suggestion above but obviously wasn’t enough even tho my little room is so damn warm lol
What temperature should the ‘enclosure’ be at to print abs successfully? Thanks
 
ABS sorry should have said. It failed miserably. I was clearing a mess at 5am this morning lol first post should have said grid not grud! It settled down before I went to bed but the supports came away from bed completely and the actual print had started to peel from surface plate as well. So going to go back to PLA until I can get some sort of enclosure sorted. I did use the mats suggestion above but obviously wasn’t enough even tho my little room is so damn warm lol
What temperature should the ‘enclosure’ be at to print abs successfully? Thanks

Did you use any type of glue to help it adhere to the surface? I use this to stick to glass (Amazon.com : Elmer's All Purpose School Glue Sticks, Washable, 6g, 8 Count (E5004) : Office Products) My whole armor set is out of ABS.

My Enclosure is at about 78 degrees F when running. It's fully enclosed to keep any drafts down to a minimum.
 
I didn’t use a glue no, it’s got one of those beds that apparently doesn’t need glue or tape? The room I use is easily 78F but maybe there was some fluctuations overnight.
I’ve got it going in PLA and it’s printing very nicely so I shall continue with PLA until I can afford an enclosure but thanks for all the info again guys
 
I didn’t use a glue no, it’s got one of those beds that apparently doesn’t need glue or tape? The room I use is easily 78F but maybe there was some fluctuations overnight.
I’ve got it going in PLA and it’s printing very nicely so I shall continue with PLA until I can afford an enclosure but thanks for all the info again guys
There are people around the net that can make enclosures using IKEA products. You could search for a method that way.
 
I didn’t use a glue no, it’s got one of those beds that apparently doesn’t need glue or tape? The room I use is easily 78F but maybe there was some fluctuations overnight.
I’ve got it going in PLA and it’s printing very nicely so I shall continue with PLA until I can afford an enclosure but thanks for all the info again guys

If your base is removable, I would try the glue method unless it specifically states not to for your unit. I've never been able to get an ABS print to adhere unless I was using a glue stick. Some other people use an abs slurry but I find it to be much more messy post cleanup.

Final thought, if whatever you are printing has a thin edge that hits the print table, it's probably best to print using a raft.
 
I am going to be printing an ODST cosplay with my CR-10 Max that I have. I was wondering if anyone knows which way I should orient the helmet for printing as well as the shoulder pieces?
 
I am going to be printing an ODST cosplay with my CR-10 Max that I have. I was wondering if anyone knows which way I should orient the helmet for printing as well as the shoulder pieces?
You would want to reduce as much time printing the supports as possible. In my personal opinion, I always print the smoothest part facing down so the supports can stabilize it as the printer builds it.
 
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