Best 3D Printing plastic type for armor?

[Fallen]

So far as the outer shell goes, I've seen XTC3D, do you have an opinion on that? The way I see it, I can add that as well to avoid a bunch of sanding, or use bondo if I need to.

I've used both XTC-3D and fiberglass resin I had lying around to fill in layer lines. Like the XTC-3D for parts that are printed in a translucent, but it's a little pricey per oz, so if a part is going to get paint, I prefer fiberglass resin. XTC-3D is basically a 2 part epoxy. Either way multiple thin coats with sanding in between will get you the best results for epoxy/resin layer filling.

Here's some finished gauntlets that used 2 layers of fiberglass resin(outside only), no bondo, and very little sanding. No sanding was done to fix little "shards" in the grooves due to a time crunch.

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

I've used both XTC-3D and fiberglass resin I had lying around to fill in layer lines. Like the XTC-3D for parts that are printed in a translucent, but it's a little pricey per oz, so if a part is going to get paint, I prefer fiberglass resin. XTC-3D is basically a 2 part epoxy. Either way multiple thin coats with sanding in between will get you the best results for epoxy/resin layer filling.

Here's some finished gauntlets that used 2 layers of fiberglass resin(outside only), no bondo, and very little sanding. No sanding was done to fix little "shards" in the grooves due to a time crunch.
View attachment 274729

I like how that looks. Good to know fiberglass resin can be used, since I'm gonna have a bunch of it. And all the parts are gonna get paint anyhow. Thanks for the input.

 

[Crumpus]

I've used both XTC-3D and fiberglass resin I had lying around to fill in layer lines. Like the XTC-3D for parts that are printed in a translucent, but it's a little pricey per oz, so if a part is going to get paint, I prefer fiberglass resin. XTC-3D is basically a 2 part epoxy. Either way multiple thin coats with sanding in between will get you the best results for epoxy/resin layer filling.

Here's some finished gauntlets that used 2 layers of fiberglass resin(outside only), no bondo, and very little sanding. No sanding was done to fix little "shards" in the grooves due to a time crunch.
View attachment 274729

Excellent results! I have tons of the stuff lying around but was always worried about cracking or separation from the 3D printed layers. I’ll give it a try for my remaining pieces.

 

[Ashuraa]

Simplify 3d is the program you want. It is pricey but so worth the money.

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

Simplify 3d is the program you want. It is pricey but so worth the money.

What are its benefits over Cura? Is it more than a slicer?

 

[Wayward Flood]

What are its benefits over Cura? Is it more than a slicer?

From my experience lately, Silmpified 3D gives you a more accurate picture of a printable object. My current 3D model build wouldn't print on Simplified 3D. It would go through Cura but that printed only peices and the rest was this accordion support material abomination.

 

[Alpha]

Another vote for eSun PLA+. We've also have had a lot of success regarding Polylite PLA recently.

Regarding S3D. It is an amazing program with lots of tutorials (link to one below). But it is extremely powerful (good and bad). Some options can be much for early users. I'd encourage you to start on Cura then when you are comfortable move on to S3D. Just my thoughts.

Print Quality Guide | Simplify3D Software

www.simplify3d.com

 

[Ashuraa]

Simplify 3d is a very powerful program. Many companies and professionals I know swear by it. It is a slicer and many other things. It also typically will optimize a print for your printer.

In our business we use Meshmixer, netfab, and simplify 3d.

 

[xXDashIVXx]

So I have no idea what to do or what i am doing. I am trying to print PETG on my tornado at 240 degrees hotend and 58 degrees bed. The filament seems to cure instantly and will not stick to the bed. It also, when the nozzle is somewhat high up, slowly flows out. I dont think it is supposed to do this, and a small amount of water (like two deads/drops) came out attatched to the fillament about five secondsapart. I cant even get the first layer down. What am I doing?

 

[Wayward Flood]

So I have no idea what to do or what i am doing. I am trying to print PETG on my tornado at 240 degrees hotend and 58 degrees bed. The filament seems to cure instantly and will not stick to the bed. It also, when the nozzle is somewhat high up, slowly flows out. I dont think it is supposed to do this, and a small amount of water (like two deads/drops) came out attatched to the fillament about five secondsapart. I cant even get the first layer down. What am I doing?

Clean the bed as much as you can? I had trouble with sticking to the bed in the first few layers with the 343 Guilty Spark model. Solved it with rubbing alcohol. I have a resin kinda 1st layer bed so keep that in mind. The slight variance in the front left corner messed the model up though. They're so many variables with 3D printing, you gotta be patient with it. Bed and heating nozzle average heat is a concern to from what I read.

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

So I have no idea what to do or what i am doing. I am trying to print PETG on my tornado at 240 degrees hotend and 58 degrees bed. The filament seems to cure instantly and will not stick to the bed. It also, when the nozzle is somewhat high up, slowly flows out. I dont think it is supposed to do this, and a small amount of water (like two deads/drops) came out attatched to the fillament about five secondsapart. I cant even get the first layer down. What am I doing?

Is it a fresh roll? I'm guessing by the water that it most likely absorbed moisture from the air...petg has a tendency to do that. As for it curing, its probably not hot enough

 

[xXDashIVXx]

Is it a fresh roll? I'm guessing by the water that it most likely absorbed moisture from the air...petg has a tendency to do that. As for it curing, its probably not hot enough

Ok. Thank you. I read that but I never considered it. The roll is new. Got it ~two days ago in a vacuum sealed bag with the little de moistening packets. Matterhacker said that the filament can work from 235-265 degrees. I'll mess around with the temps and even try 265. As for the bed, it is a brand new glass bed. I will keep messing with it. :I

Thanks!

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

Ok. Thank you. I read that but I never considered it. The roll is new. Got it ~two days ago in a vacuum sealed bag with the little de moistening packets. Matterhacker said that the filament can work from 235-265 degrees. I'll mess around with the temps and even try 265. As for the bed, it is a brand new glass bed. I will keep messing with it. :I

Thanks!

Youre welcome. If it's new then I doubt it absorbed moisture that fast, unless the humidity is through the roof where you're at. What temp were you trying it at? I'll admit I havent messed with their petg much because I was fighting heat creep.

Have you found a way to bond it yet? Regular super glue didnt seem to work for me

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

Simplify 3d is the program you want. It is pricey but so worth the money.

I'll give it a whirl. If it offers more benefits than Fusion 360, then 150 bucks once and done beats the hell out of paying triple that for a yearly subscription to Fusion...

 

[TurboCharizard]

I'll give it a whirl. If it offers more benefits than Fusion 360, then 150 bucks once and done beats the hell out of paying triple that for a yearly subscription to Fusion...

Uh... Fusion 360 is free if you're a hobbyist or make less than $100k/year using their software.

Fusion 360 for Personal Use | Fusion 360 | Autodesk

Download Fusion 360 for personal, non-commercial use. Get access to free CAD, CAM, CAE and PCB software for qualifying individuals here.

www.autodesk.com

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

Uh... Fusion 360 is free if you're a hobbyist or make less than $100k/year using their software.

Fusion 360 for Personal Use | Fusion 360 | Autodesk

Download Fusion 360 for personal, non-commercial use. Get access to free CAD, CAM, CAE and PCB software for qualifying individuals here.

www.autodesk.com

thanks for the link

 

[xXDashIVXx]

Youre welcome. If it's new then I doubt it absorbed moisture that fast, unless the humidity is through the roof where you're at. What temp were you trying it at? I'll admit I havent messed with their petg much because I was fighting heat creep.

Have you found a way to bond it yet? Regular super glue didnt seem to work for me

I have not tried bonding peices together yet, as I dont have peices done yet. I printed two today at 260 nozzle and 70 bed. These temperatures worked great, and masking tape made it much easier for the print to stick to the bed. Then something happened. Every once in a while some of the filament would pool up or stick out as a string to the side of the print. Also there were little balls of fillament scattered around the bed, but three hours in the two peices didn't look affected in any way. Went outside for an hour, and when I came back it was a giant hair ball of filament on top of the two peices. Must have happened immediately after I left. Guess i need more troubleshooting... would z hopping help?

 

[GrandMoffJimbob]

I have not tried bonding peices together yet, as I dont have peices done yet. I printed two today at 260 nozzle and 70 bed. These temperatures worked great, and masking tape made it much easier for the print to stick to the bed. Then something happened. Every once in a while some of the filament would pool up or stick out as a string to the side of the print. Also there were little balls of fillament scattered around the bed, but three hours in the two peices didn't look affected in any way. Went outside for an hour, and when I came back it was a giant hair ball of filament on top of the two peices. Must have happened immediately after I left. Guess i need more troubleshooting... would z hopping help?

I honestly don't know anything about z hopping... hairball could be the next layer didnt adhere to the previous one and the printer kept chugging along. The former issue I havent seen though..

 

[MIMMan12]

Hey!

So I've picked up armor smith to scale everything properly to print, and the next step is to start printing. First I've gatta fix up my printer though, but while I'm working on that....

What's the (arguably) best type of plastic to print with for making a full suit out of it? You know, PLA, ABS, PET, PETG, etc....

Oh! If you can, what's the pros and cons of them?

Cheers!

View attachment 273168

I can't find if anyone has asked this, but where did you get this file set from?

 

[Phauxelate]

I can't find if anyone has asked this, but where did you get this file set from?

I got it from thingiverse, but the website right now is currently down. Luckily, I have it saved in my own cloud, so i'll put a link here that's good for 1 download for 1 day. Hopefully by then thingiverse will be back up and I can put a proper link. (The dude made 2 versions, one that's split up for printing, and one that isn't. Both are in the file I'm linking)

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